[MstrKey]

Originally Posted by Chuckles_031

Have a demon, board seems to be bad, when its plugged in the battery icon lights up, but it wont turn on. Any insight would be great

I know some guys had problems with some boards if they were left too long and the battery drained totally.

Plug it in, cycle through the menus a bit, then turn the gun off but leave it plugged in. See if your battery indicator shows a low battery and charging at this point. If it does let it charge up. If that doesn't work try a factory reset while it's plugged in.

[Chuckles_031]

Originally Posted by MstrKey

I know some guys had problems with some boards if they were left too long and the battery drained totally.

Plug it in, cycle through the menus a bit, then turn the gun off but leave it plugged in. See if your battery indicator shows a low battery and charging at this point. If it does let it charge up. If that doesn't work try a factory reset while it's plugged in.

I left it plugged in and the charging animation shows, but when i turn the gun on, like this morning, it turned on for about 3 min than shut off and wouldnt power on. Battery is still showing a full charge, though.

EDIT - Figured it out, noid wires were cut and when they were soldered back together, it wouldn't get a good conection, so it would short the board out. new noid fixed the problem

[kebrad14]

I was unable to find a post about this specific leak with a quick search but hopefully you can help me with my problem.
I get the gun gassed up with zero leaks and take a few shots over the crono, still good. Then I shoot a good string on ramping and the gun develops a strong but low volume leak coming out of the hpr vent hole on the exterior of the foregrip body. I read somewhere that lp tanks(what I am using) will cause leaks so I will try a hp or mp tank next time I get a chance but I would love to get some help on the issue.

Thanks,
Keagen

[jballa12]

My gun leaks from inside somewhere, I don't have the o-ring to fix it...
Also the board needs to be sautering where can I send it to get it fixed?pm me please with any info

[MstrKey]

[quote=kebrad14;80386279]I was unable to find a post about this specific leak with a quick search but hopefully you can help me with my problem.
I get the gun gassed up with zero leaks and take a few shots over the crono, still good. Then I shoot a good string on ramping and the gun develops a strong but low volume leak coming out of the hpr vent hole on the exterior of the foregrip body. I read somewhere that lp tanks(what I am using) will cause leaks so I will try a hp or mp tank next time I get a chance but I would love to get some help on the issue.

Thanks,
Keagen[/QUOTE


You shouldn't get a leak with LP or HP tanks from the HPR. Sounds like you need a rebuild. Swap out the orings, lube it up and check the reg seat to make sure it's not damaged.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9eHoEK8K0w

There is a vid to help you out.

[Puginator2]

I'm missing the screw that holds the trigger frame to the upper body were can I find one of these

[Puginator2]

Ya it's the one in the back I just bought it in pieces and it's missing the screw

[Chuckles_031]

Can get the screws at any hardware store

[MstrKey]

You can try the hardware store. Just bring the front one with you so you can match up the threads and length.

[Reactor]

Balls roll out of barrel. Checked detents and springs all look good and refitted tightened up the eye covers. Problem persists. Any aftermarket detents compatible?

[MstrKey]

Try taking the barrel off, and pushing the detents back with your finger nail. Do they retract fully flush and then pop right back out again? Sometimes they may look ok, but if the spring binds up they won't operate properly.

I can't see paint getting past the detents if they're working 100%. Unless you have some type of leak in your drive train and that air pressure is pushing paint past the detents. Or you have some insane pressure on the ball stack from your hopper.

[Reactor]

Just using dye rotor. Looks as though they do not push out into the breach very far at all. one moreso than the other but not far enough like my other markers. no leaks no crazy pressures.

[MstrKey]

Originally Posted by Reactor

Just using dye rotor. Looks as though they do not push out into the breach very far at all. one moreso than the other but not far enough like my other markers. no leaks no crazy pressures.

That means you have a detent issue. Those tiny springs are tough to place back in flush. Once you put the eye covers back on the springs can bend over, rather than staying straight and flexing like they need to. Just take the detents out and give it a few tries until you get them in properly. Test each one with your finger to make sure.

Of course all of this assumes you have the proper detents and springs in there.

[bybee5150]

I have a Creed that I absolutely love. It shoots so smooth and usually without any barrel raise. My son decided it would be fun to adjust my HPR and LPR with an allen key. I have tuned it back to where I feel it is close to shooting perfect but has a slight barrel raise which it didn't have before. Knowing this, to make it have no barrel raise which do I need to focus on adjusting HPR or LPR. At this time my HPR is 1 1/2 turns out and my LPR shows about one thread showing on the screw. It is not that big of a deal but I know it can shoot a little smoother than it is. Any help would be appreciated.

[MstrKey]

If you have a fully updated creed with the LP poppet you should be able to drop your HPR lower. Maybe 1 1/8th turns out. Then LPR around 1-1.5 threads out, as long as you don't have an LP tank in which case you may need to go a bit higher on HPR.

Of course this all assumes you're running the normal dwell setting. Your son could have changed that as well which would explain the need for your higher HPR setting. Use the settings above, then raise your dwell until you hit the 290's range. Then make minor adjustments with the LPR. You should have a dwell anywhere from 10-12ms although higher will be smoother obviously.

[bybee5150]

Originally Posted by MstrKey

If you have a fully updated creed with the LP poppet you should be able to drop your HPR lower. Maybe 1 1/8th turns out. Then LPR around 1-1.5 threads out, as long as you don't have an LP tank in which case you may need to go a bit higher on HPR.

Of course this all assumes you're running the normal dwell setting. Your son could have changed that as well which would explain the need for your higher HPR setting. Use the settings above, then raise your dwell until you hit the 290's range. Then make minor adjustments with the LPR. You should have a dwell anywhere from 10-12ms although higher will be smoother obviously.

Awesome. Thanks for the info and will try it out when I get off of work. I appreciate your help.

[JV photography]

i am looking for a 2013 demon board. Mine is broken and the led is to dim to read.

[MstrKey]

Word on the street is there should be a new shipment of boards coming into vanguard soon.

[JpRodie]

Where are the boards? Is vanguard in trouble here. Been emailing. No response. Ive got a three month old demon. Needs a board. And usb cover. But mostly want the board. anyhelp will be appreciated. pm me for my email. Im in Canada if that screws anything up aswell.

[RichieJ]

when i shoot my 2013 vanguard demon there is a high pitched "ping" during every shot. I don't know what it is, any help would be appreciated.

-All settings on board are stock
-No leaks
-Freshly cleaned and lubed
-fully charged battery and using quality paint
-loader has fresh batteries

[iBunker Noobs]

Does anyone know if the v2 creed and demon solenoid are interchangeable? Inbox me please if you can help.