[imguessingurgay]

Originally Posted by diamond.g

I wanted a cutthrough/blwothrough when I had my S10. I had figured I could do like 8 12's (or 16 12's isobarik). Then found out I was moving to DC and decided to get a sedan. I kinda wish I didn't get rid of the truck. Now that I have a little more disposable income, I could of had a stupid loud truck by now.



Well I have a peronal meter. I think it is +3 db on the Termlab mic though. I can't seem to remember who made mine, but AudioControl makes one that fits in your dash. They have two models, one that goes to 150 and another that goes to 160.

Audiocontrol measures 6-7db HIGHER than the termlab. We have both at the shop.

[diamond.g]

Originally Posted by imguessingurgay

Audiocontrol measures 6-7db HIGHER than the termlab. We have both at the shop.

Yeah in the perfect world everyone should use the termlab, but I figure most don't want to spend the $650.

I found mine, but it seems to not be sold anymore dbm2 SPL Meter

[Cheezyfli]

Originally Posted by Disarmer

Personally, I would change the sub/box before I would change that amp. The amp you have picked out is legit, whereas putting an L5 in a 1 cu/ft sealed enclosure probably isn't in your best interest.

Yeah, prefab boxes do suck. I just remembered that I'm getting paid so I'm thinking that I'll just pick up 2 L5's, building a ported box for them, and running them off the Hifonics amp. Would I be able to do that without any major problems?

[imguessingurgay]

Originally Posted by diamond.g

Yeah in the perfect world everyone should use the termlab, but I figure most don't want to spend the $650.

I found mine, but it seems to not be sold anymore dbm2 SPL Meter

I think the dual meter setup is around 150 more than that.

[diamond.g]

Originally Posted by imguessingurgay

I think the dual meter setup is around 150 more than that.

I am pretty sure it was $850 for the dual meter setup.

[imguessingurgay]

Ok so I was $50 bucks off

[Csleet1337res]

ok so I'm really confused right now since I my car to a car audio place. and when I wire everything up the capacitor turns on thats it. when I take off the capacitor and hook up just the amps they don't turn on. even when I just hook up one amp. The guy at the car audio place said I need higher gage wires but it worked fine before. Why would 2 amps just stop working out of no where? the fuses are fine and everything. Is it possible that they are blown somehow?

[diamond.g]

Originally Posted by Csleet1337res

ok so I'm really confused right now since I my car to a car audio place. and when I wire everything up the capacitor turns on thats it. when I take off the capacitor and hook up just the amps they don't turn on. even when I just hook up one amp. The guy at the car audio place said I need higher gage wires but it worked fine before. Why would 2 amps just stop working out of no where? the fuses are fine and everything. Is it possible that they are blown somehow?

If you hook only one up does it work?

[Csleet1337res]

nope

[pntbllwlly]

Neeeeed more basssss.

Im quite over my 12. Even though i just built a ported box for it.

[diamond.g]

Originally Posted by Csleet1337res

nope

A quick test would be to jump the 12v power on your 12v turn on for the amp to see if the turn on is the issue.

[diamond.g]

Originally Posted by pntbllwlly

Neeeeed more basssss.

Im quite over my 12. Even though i just built a ported box for it.

What kind of 12?

[Csleet1337res]

Originally Posted by diamond.g

A quick test would be to jump the 12v power on your 12v turn on for the amp to see if the turn on is the issue.

with like a voltage meter?

[NickThePyro]

So I just built my box for my 12" Fi Q and have to find a place to mount my kicker ZX1000.1 to power it. How bad would it be to mount the kicker on the box? I know some brands are worse than others for vibration problems.

[diamond.g]

Originally Posted by Csleet1337res

with like a voltage meter?

If you have one that would work just as well. You want to make sure the amp is getting the turn on signal. If it is, you should check all fuses, making sure they aren't blown (although they shouldn't be).

[BobbyDaBeast]

Originally Posted by Truck Driver

this.


I want to do one so bad. I just don't have the money since i would pick up another AA havok if i did. Maybe when im rich and liek famous some day

Way too much work, I dont even have the right tools for that. And dont want to buy a bed cover. Im getting this truck from my uncle 2004 Dodge single cab 1500...white, long bed. Going to look pretty lame, so im most likely going to sell it. And I think it will be a bench seat with a consol that folds up and down. Maybe I can but the subs in between driver/passenger. My box is big (in sig)..dont wanna build another.

[Csleet1337res]

I'll check the remote wire. cause I've check just about everything else. but 2 fairly new amps wouldn't just stop working would they?

[skyline_898]

Okay, I am looking for my first sub/amp set up for my car. I was thinking this sub and this amp, or this amp. Will those be okay?

[spug]

Originally Posted by skyline_898

Okay, I am looking for my first sub/amp set up for my car. I was thinking this sub and this amp, or this amp. Will those be okay?

The Hifonics amp is a much better choice, and only overpowers it (according to the numbers) by 150 watts. However, with it being an L7, I'm sure you could give it more than 150 over without hurting it, as long as it's clean power.

[skyline_898]

Okay, thanks.

[inkfx]

I'd get an Audioque SDC2.5 over the L7. I've owned both and give the crown to the SDC. Plus, you can get a 15" for the price of that 12.

You can order the AQ at www.audioque.com. They subs are rated low, they can take 1000w RMS easily all day long as long the signal is not clipped. Plus from what I hear, those HiFonics amps are overrated on their power output anyways.