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Old 01-21-2013, 07:10 PM #1
Hunterspawn
 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
DM12 breaking paint out of the box

I just got a brand new DM12 and went out to the field yesterday to try it out.
To my surprise it wasn't shooting very well, i was breaking paint and it was shooting erratically when it started ramping. I haven't touched any of the settings except programing it to PSP.

If anyone has experienced this or have any suggestions please let me know.
This is my first time owning a Dye.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:11 PM #2
Eastter
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How cold was it? What is the paint bore size? What bore barrel did you use?
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:26 PM #3
Hunterspawn
 
 
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It was around 42 degrees (NY weather) and i was using the stock barrel 688.
I don't have a bore kit so i didn't even bothering checking the bore of the paint i was shooting.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:40 PM #4
Eastter
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Could have been a couple of things
1) too cold. It was only 50 in Florida and I had bad chopping too
2) bad paint
3) small bore and big paint
4) a combination of all of the above lol.
Just experiment a little. It's too early to assume something's wrong.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:42 PM #5
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Okay thanks for your help!
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:31 PM #6
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I don't know if you cleaned/lubed or adjusted your regs out of the box. If not, you probably should. Stock guns can sit a long time without service. Fresh lube, and proper settings for your geography are mandatory. Lube the drive train and the regs. Lube lite and lube the drive train each time you play. Consult the stickies for the proper lubing method if you don't know it.

Now that being said.....you're also playing in the cold so I would set your dwell to about 20ms. Then reset your regs using the proper DM method. If you don't know it, read the forum stickies and learn it. An LPR set too low will break paint. Set too high will break paint. It needs to be just right, especially in cold weather.

Your barrel is probably larger than the paint which is what you want in the cold.

I don't know which type of hopper you're using but.....if it has adjustable stack tension, then run it low. If it doesn't but has adjustable feed rate, lower it, but keep it above your ROF cap by a few bps. If it's not adjustable then you'll have to just live with it.

I know you're on PSP but it's still possible to change your ROF cap......not sure if you did but I wouldn't go above 15 if you did. You could also raise your BIP setting a tad to help in the cold as well. Give the paint more time to settle before it's fired.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:45 PM #7
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What kind of paint were you shooting? How fresh was it? Where were the breaks occurring?

When I took my DM12 out of the box the Fuse Bolt was covered in DOW33. Take the bolt out, take it apart, wipe it all down, put a very light coat of DOW33 on, and put it back in the gun.

It should shoot fine at that point.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:46 AM #8
Hunterspawn
 
 
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The breaks were in the barrel, i think it may have been the lube on the bolt.
When i took it apart after playing it was caked with lube. i took it apart and applied a thin layer of lube to the it so hopefully it shoots well this weekend.


Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:59 AM #9
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If there were no breaks in the eye pipe and the only broken paint was in the barrel then your issue was ultimately the paint you were shooting.

Removing all that extra lube and redoing it properly helps the gun a lot, but the barrel breaks were 99% likely to be caused by the paint. No matter what it takes a good amount of pressure hitting that paintball to propel it at 300 FPS. On a cold day some paint just doesn't like that! If it's in the 40s to 50s leave the paint in the sun where you can get it to heat up and hopefully become slightly less brittle.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:30 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunterspawn View Post
The breaks were in the barrel, i think it may have been the lube on the bolt.
When i took it apart after playing it was caked with lube. i took it apart and applied a thin layer of lube to the it so hopefully it shoots well this weekend.


Thanks!
That's most likely it, also very well could have been the paint, I just got a dm13 and it shot great out of the box but I was using decent paint, but when lubing the bolt for the first time it wasn't caked on like you described, after i wiped it down and and relubed the bolt I shot a case of white box with no breaks, plus I'm in NY as well.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:27 PM #11
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breaks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Splatkid10 View Post
If there were no breaks in the eye pipe and the only broken paint was in the barrel then your issue was ultimately the paint you were shooting.

Removing all that extra lube and redoing it properly helps the gun a lot, but the barrel breaks were 99% likely to be caused by the paint. No matter what it takes a good amount of pressure hitting that paintball to propel it at 300 FPS. On a cold day some paint just doesn't like that! If it's in the 40s to 50s leave the paint in the sun where you can get it to heat up and hopefully become slightly less brittle.
Most barrel breaks are clipped balls that explode when fired. You need to get your bolt running using as little pressure as possible in the cold. That means high dwell, low LPR. Nice loose barrel. Hopper that doesn't push too hard. This goes for EVERY type of gun.

You can also leave your paint exposed for a while to soften it up. I've done this many times. Just open the bags and dump it all in the box. As the day goes on they'll get more flexible. Your problems will lessen. Once it's soft enough bag it back up again......assuming you don't shoot it all that dya.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:44 PM #12
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Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
Most barrel breaks are clipped balls that explode when fired. You need to get your bolt running using as little pressure as possible in the cold. That means high dwell, low LPR. Nice loose barrel. Hopper that doesn't push too hard. This goes for EVERY type of gun.
If the balls were being "clipped" by the bolt you would see paint on the bolt tip and eye pipe. The burst of HP air doesn't occur until the bolt has moved the ball forward into the barrel. After a barrel ball break take your barrel off and you will see the paint starts to streak in the barrel about 1/2" to 1" into the barrel (from the threads).

You'll also find with barrel breaks you can shoot through it with 10-15 rounds, 95% of the time. A true break in the breach and you'll be flinging paint every which way possible until you really clean everything out.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:10 PM #13
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Thanks for all the feedback, will try this baby out again this sunday.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:53 PM #14
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barrel breaks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Splatkid10 View Post
If the balls were being "clipped" by the bolt you would see paint on the bolt tip and eye pipe. The burst of HP air doesn't occur until the bolt has moved the ball forward into the barrel. After a barrel ball break take your barrel off and you will see the paint starts to streak in the barrel about 1/2" to 1" into the barrel (from the threads).

You'll also find with barrel breaks you can shoot through it with 10-15 rounds, 95% of the time. A true break in the breach and you'll be flinging paint every which way possible until you really clean everything out.
Sort of. The ball gets clipped and weakens but otherwise rolls down and loads just fine. Then when fired as the shell begins to expand from the pressure, that shell now collapses at some point down the barrel. Depending on how bad the fracture was. This isn't always the case........some paint is just so brittle the mere expansion from the air blast IS enough to burst a ball which is why you should always use a decent overbore on cold brittle paint(it gives the ball more room for expansion). If you're breaking paint even when you one ball....then it's probably the air blast causing the barrel breaks. If it happens only when your shooting strings, it's probably clipping.

Either way lowering your operating pressure and LPR is the same cure for both problems. Regardless of your gun type.

Now if your paint is so brittle even an air blast at your lowest pressure will break the balls....then you need to leave it open to soften up, or warm it up. Those are your only two choices at that point.
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