[Mark S.]

That's great man...glad this is getting resurrected and not just ending up in somebody's junk pile!

[Zippin35]

always love seeing someone put the work in to appreciate a fine macdev.

[Speedfreak11]

The only thing I'm concerned about now is the breech. It looks like it just took off the anno, so I'm hoping a new anno job will take care of it. I honestly can't wait to get it out there and get a few cases through it.

[Zippin35]

We'll if you anno to get rid of breach wear you are just going to put more strain on the bolt. It will also wear off faster. If that's the only reason for an anno job, I would hold off.

[Speedfreak11]

Originally Posted by Zippin35

We'll if you anno to get rid of breach wear you are just going to put more strain on the bolt. It will also wear off faster. If that's the only reason for an anno job, I would hold off.

I'm not a fan of the black/gold colors, so aesthetics are my main reason for the anno job. I admit I've only scratched the surface researching anodizing. My understanding is that the process begins with stripping the aluminum past the oxide layer down to the bare metal. A new oxide layer is then formed using electricity and an acid solution. Then you have your dyes and sealants.

Can you elaborate on how the bolt would be strained or the anno would wear off faster if I had it anno'd? I would think that done correctly the breech could be brought back to near-factory to factory specs.

[Zippin35]

Sure. So you are correct about the anno process, as far as my limited knowledge understands it as well. But you notice that over time, every gun wears the anno in the breach away, almost polishing the breech. The wear is, in my opinion a form of breaking the gun in. If the anno did not ever wear, then we could say that there was no pressure or wear from the bolt. Since it always wears away, we can assume that the bolt is rubbing the anno off. So if you take a breach that has worn that additional material away and put it back, its not bad but its just re-doing the process. Hope that makes sense, I'm multi-tasking.

I mis-worded my the anno will wear off faster line, I meant that if you get it re-annoed it will wear off faster in the breach so if that was your main reason, then that would also be the first spot to show wear. Regardless, the breach anno will wear off so re-annoing for that sole purpose is pointless to me. However, as you said you are not a fan of the black/gold so you will get a fresh looking gun!

[Mark S.]

Just to add, shootnpoo on here does great anno work. He is the only person who MacDev allows to do anno on their guns and still keep the warranty in tact. Now, that doesn't matter in this case as the RX is out of warranty, but that fact alone should prove that he does good work. Just figured I'd mention it in case you were looking for someone to do anno work for you.

[Speedfreak11]

Originally Posted by Zippin35

Sure. So you are correct about the anno process, as far as my limited knowledge understands it as well. But you notice that over time, every gun wears the anno in the breach away, almost polishing the breech. The wear is, in my opinion a form of breaking the gun in. If the anno did not ever wear, then we could say that there was no pressure or wear from the bolt. Since it always wears away, we can assume that the bolt is rubbing the anno off. So if you take a breach that has worn that additional material away and put it back, its not bad but its just re-doing the process. Hope that makes sense, I'm multi-tasking.

I mis-worded my the anno will wear off faster line, I meant that if you get it re-annoed it will wear off faster in the breach so if that was your main reason, then that would also be the first spot to show wear. Regardless, the breach anno will wear off so re-annoing for that sole purpose is pointless to me. However, as you said you are not a fan of the black/gold so you will get a fresh looking gun!

That makes more sense to me. I realize that would likely be the first place to wear. This particular gun looks like it got some sand in the breech that cut through some of the outer anno layers, but possibly not all the way to the base aluminum. A new anodizing should add a layer of protection to the aluminum and essentially "reset" the wear process.

And yeah, I'm either going Poison (either match or opposite my drone) or orange and blue (Go Gators!!!!).

Originally Posted by Mark S.

Just to add, shootnpoo on here does great anno work. He is the only person who MacDev allows to do anno on their guns and still keep the warranty in tact. Now, that doesn't matter in this case as the RX is out of warranty, but that fact alone should prove that he does good work. Just figured I'd mention it in case you were looking for someone to do anno work for you.

I'm already in contact with Shootnpoo as well as FX Anodizing (they're local to me). I'm leaning towards poo for the exact reason you stated, but I haven't fully made up my mind yet.

[Speedfreak11]

Decided to swap screens from my drone and do some testing. The RX was cleaned, lubed, lpr flushed and hpr set at 200 psi. I reset the board to factory so dwell was at 12. On the chrono, I was getting consistent 255 +/-4. I upped the LPR about 1/8 turn and the hpr to 215 psi, and now I'm at 280 +/-4. I'd say that's pretty good for an $80 RX!

[Mark S.]

Yup not bad for an $80 RX at all. The stock dwell of 12 is what the Clones run at. Try 9 or 10 for your RX.

[barrel roll]

Start at 10ms, lower as it gets smoother.


And breach wear doesn't effect performance.

[Burning Ogre]

also try to start with the inline reg @180/190 psi

[Speedfreak11]

Got the screen from Fresh today! I set the dwell to 10, HPR to 180 and about 1/4 turn on the LPR. Put about 50 shots of Valken Infinity over the chrono through a .679. It shot right around 277 +/-3! I can't wait to get this out and play with it this weekend!

[seriouslysilly]

[Mark S.]

That's great man, glad to hear that you didn't discover any other issues with it!

[The_Fresh]

good to see this bugger running again!

[barrel roll]

Dummy question - how do I know when I've set my dwell too low?

I had my LPR backed out a bit, and the HPR set somewhere between 180 and 190, and was shooting hot. I lowered the dwell to 9 and set flush to get acceptable FPS, and then to 8 and had to screw the LPR in a fraction of a turn.

I'm tempted to put dwell back to 10, set LPR a fraction of a turn in and lower HPR but I am concerned about getting too much kick. I have to keep telling myself that this isn't like my MQ2'd autococker. Is that the right course of action for this style of poppet based marker?


*Assume paint quality is "ok" with an underbored barrel.

[The_Fresh]

rx's base line settings are LPR flush, hpr at around 180-200 depending on fps limit, and dwell at 10ms. no matter what you set the rx too it kicks less than any ego with all upgrades and mods. as it breaks in you can start messing with the lpr and dropping the dwell. also make sure your o rings are good and lubed.

if you really want to help efficiency / smoothness / kick have pooty mod your bolt

[barrel roll]

I see where I goofed (after finding Jame's thread, again) with the LPR.

For some reason, I had it in my head to set speed with the LPR. So, I will be setting the LPR flush, setting dwell back to 10ms, and lowering the HPR for velocity. Set it and forget it at that point.

[Zippin35]

Ya sounds like your back on track. I dont touch the lpr once its settled in, just fine tunes to the hpr every day and thats that. About once a month to every other month I do a total teardown and reset everything, not needed but keeps my mind at ease.