[<((0))>]

Just joined the AKA family, and very proud of it. i'm a closed-bolt baller. love the mechanics, how its technically more difficult to have a closed-bolt marker compared to open. owned at least 6 'cockers, fixed and sold, still have my shoebox and use it on a game-ly basis (every game i play, basically) and now, a marker i've been after for ages is finally mine.

so she's a bit....rough. excuseable, with a serial of EX 00206, i think she has seen her fair share of gameplay. years pass, things disappear for other projects... or break...

anyhow, i'm rebuilding her now, and currently have an un-anno'd UL tray, gloss black lever feedneck and bolt-pin from Destructive on their way. now i just need either a new noid tray/longer noid screws/screw coils for the tray, a board, and other bits to hold the JMJ blade trigger in place, and... well everything else for that matter on the frame.

as for the board, should i go with a T-board, or drop 125 on a Tadao board? (ignore the wiring harness for a t-board in the background, thats for Icarus V1)

[stealth300tt]

FTW you still need me to play with it haha

[i_luv_strats]

The tadao board is far far better than the t board.

[<((0))>]

@stealth
yeah yeah, when its done, i cant let you play with it before me

@strats
added to the fact that i dont need to program it... that may be a while then before i get one unless i can get a few other things sold

[<((0))>]

UL tray, bolt pin and feednack came in today, just a few things left to get...




just need a board (i sent a PM to 'theothers' for the WAS board he's got in his 'biggest sale on nation' post, no reply yet, only been a day tho) and misc hardware to hold the trigger, microswitch and board in place.

now i'm curious, what are these extra holes in the tray/body?

[MeuroM]

Holes far left and right are for dowel pins, see they are on the trigger frame and body too. I guess they keep things aligned and remove some stress from the screws. Those in the middle are threaded and are for board mounting nylon screws. There are three to hold the board in, but I've usually seen only two screws used.

[brock_averill]

looks nice! get the tray annoed gloss black and call it good.

[<((0))>]

@MeuroM: that made me feel silly, hindsight it makes sense, before hand i thought the board fit into the gripframe

@brock: thats the plan, debating weather or not i like the beavertail, ill decide that when i use it though.

a gloss black tray would keep a nice color scheme, and kind of a mental lapse, i think i need an ASA i don't have any through hole ones, just rail style.....

[langless28]

has anyone installed the frame using pins? i did on mine because i happen to have dowel pins the right size and it made installation so much easier, put the frame on the pins and left a little gap so i could use a small screwdriver to push all the wires (Excalibur) into the tray area and then pushed the frame on, so easy that way.

[<((0))>]

1/8th inch piano wire goes a long way...

from the body through the tray, small nub left for the frame:


trigger (not solid yet, fits in the hole but won't stay there, need to crimp one side slightly, and microswitch pins, again position is temp, need to finish the width to fit snug. it all works for now though:


microswitch pin; dremel + metal cutoff wheel (pin in the dremel, cutoff wheel in hand cutting away as the metal spun, as if in a lathe, only not):


all i need is a board.... anyone? haha j/k, still searching the BST forums, only guy with some has not responded, so i'm a little doubtful.

[xero28]

SkinnyFatGuy has a board. I'm pretty sure Pandoras work for Vikings and Excals.

https://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...243&highlight=

[<((0))>]

Originally Posted by xero28

SkinnyFatGuy has a board. I'm pretty sure Pandoras work for Vikings and Excals.

https://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...243&highlight=

thank you for that, i've PMed him.

[stealth300tt]

i got to play with it today ahhaha

[yuik]

Originally Posted by stealth300tt

i got to play with it today ahhaha

newbreed?

[<((0))>]

Originally Posted by yuik

newbreed?

i don't quite get this... stealth is my friend, and wanted to play around with it (walk the trigger, etc) because he's never owned one.

Pandora Board w/cable on the way!

[yuik]

Originally Posted by <((0))>

i don't quite get this... stealth is my friend, and wanted to play around with it (walk the trigger, etc) because he's never owned one.

Pandora Board w/cable on the way!

i saw the jersey tag in both of you guys names, and i know a guy who has a similar red vf cocker in north NJ and figured you guys were at newbreed (its a field).

[<((0))>]

Originally Posted by yuik

i saw the jersey tag in both of you guys names, and i know a guy who has a similar red vf cocker in north NJ and figured you guys were at newbreed (its a field).

aah, gotcha. nah we met up at a local pizzaria and i brought it with me. without a board he couldn't shoot it, he just wanted to get a feel for it. if i can get it done im probably gonna play with it on saturday or sunday, that assumes the board gets here before then, otherwise next weekend

[yuik]

Yeah I'm banking on every field other then topgun to be dead due to mothersday this Sunday

[<((0))>]

board is here, and it would be installed, however i don't have the male connectors needed to go between the wires and board. i could solder, but i'd rather not. when i get time tonight i'm gonna try to source those connectors (possibly mouser or newark?) but it would be greatly appreciated if anyone knew where i could get them from (small white, 2-prong connectors that fit into the receivers on the board)

[cadoncrack666]

you'll actually need a 2 pin and a 3 pin connector. mouser has them

2-pin Housing
Molex P\N 51021-0200

3-pin Housing
Molex P\N 51021-0300

[<((0))>]

Originally Posted by cadoncrack666

you'll actually need a 2 pin and a 3 pin connector. mouser has them

2-pin Housing
Molex P\N 51021-0200

3-pin Housing
Molex P\N 51021-0300

[img]godamongmen.jpg[/img]

Thank you sir, on that note; they are on their way.