|
|
12-28-2012, 05:32 PM
|
#1
|
|
new A1 fly solenoid problems
Hello, I just got my brand new angel a1 fly joy edition and the marker is just perfect I love it all ready even I didn't shoot a single paintball with it cause the freaking solenoid gets stuck in the shooting / open position when I connect air and make one shot .
I did open the back of the gun reset the noid( push the piston a small step back to the el magnet ) then connect air and make one shot and the air start leaking down the barrel until I repeat the same reset again.
Don't know what to do else, does anyone have an idea what I can do to fix that?
|
|
|
Sponsored Links
|
Remove Advertisement
|
Advertisement
|
|
12-28-2012, 05:40 PM
|
#2
|
Fight.
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Long Island
|
Sounding like a bolt stick issue. Couple things to go through.
-New Fresh battery (duracell or energizer to be safe, no no-name brands)
-Make sure the breach seal is glued down flat. If it is lifted it will lift and lock the breach block causing the bolt to stay forward and dump air. Lift off the seal and pick off all the old adhesive and reglue with a drop of superglue.
-Make sure the dwell is 6.5ms.
-Make sure the detents are fresh and not ripped.
-Make sure the bolt pin did not back out or is loose in the bolt. Take the bolt out and tap the bottom of the metal pin on a hard/smooth surface to ensure it is seated all the way down.
Be very careful of the solenoid. The spool is very delicate and those small spool seals can get damaged. Make sure the solenoid goes back together correctly with a little grease on the spool and the gasket is on correctly and lightly greased.
|
|
|
12-28-2012, 06:54 PM
|
#3
|
|
OK, thanks for a quick response:-)
Have done that, fixed the breach seal and changed the battery to a new energizer , dwell is by 6,5, still the same problem.
And like I sad the gun is brand new , I have only changed to a mojo board
|
|
|
12-28-2012, 07:09 PM
|
#4
|
Fight.
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Long Island
|
Open up the volume chamber plug in the front and ensure both magnets (1 on the plug and 1 on the cupseal) are intact and secure. Then make sure the white delrin cupseal ring is attached to the stem securely as well.
Check your pressures as well. 200psi on the reg and 55psi on the lpr are safe to start out with.
If everything is fine, last thing would be to go back to the solenoid, something is not right. Seems like the spool is sticking in the open position. Push the spool out very cautiously, wipe with soft napkin and lightly re-grease. Clean out the solenoid block where the spool slides into, making sure no debris are inside. Recheck everything carefully making sure the block was put back together right.
Last edited by RangerJoe : 12-28-2012 at 07:11 PM.
|
|
|
12-28-2012, 08:24 PM
|
#5
|
The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
|
If this only happens when you first air up, try simply pushing the bolt back with a squeegee and take a couple dryfires and oftentimes it will reset. That is a common issue and really nothing to be concerned about.
If the problem persists, check your solenoid for a tell-tale dent in the top of the body. If it's there, odds are good someone overtightened the solenoid clamp screw at some point in its life and crushed the body, causing the piston to stick.
|
|
|
12-28-2012, 10:37 PM
|
#6
|
Angels 4 Life
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
|
if the noid is crushed, you should probably hear air leaking from it, right?
i would suggest checking the noid gasket and see if it is somehow upside down?
you can try oiling the gun... or lubing the noid spool like rangerjoe says... and yes, be very careful and re-read rangerjoe's instructions 5 times.
i would troubleshoot this first as a bolt stick problem. open the rotobreach and wrap it in a towel. dry fire and see if the hammer stays forward. if so, then it's a ram or noid issue.
i have had similar thing happen where i actually had to lube the noid... but that was on an 05speed that sat in the closet for 4 or 5 years.
|
|
|
12-28-2012, 11:48 PM
|
#7
|
The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
|
You won't necessarily get a leak from the 'noid even if you've crushed the body. Particularly if you forget the spreader that goes on top, you can put a nice solid dent in it without actually cracking it and it'll just cause the piston to stick. Just one thing to check as long as you've got the solenoid cover open - definitely check the gasket and those other things as well.
|
|
|
12-29-2012, 01:04 PM
|
#8
|
EastCoastAngel
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: massachusetts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.strangelove
If this only happens when you first air up, try simply pushing the bolt back with a squeegee and take a couple dryfires and oftentimes it will reset. That is a common issue and really nothing to be concerned about.
If the problem persists, check your solenoid for a tell-tale dent in the top of the body. If it's there, odds are good someone overtightened the solenoid clamp screw at some point in its life and crushed the body, causing the piston to stick.
|
I was thinking the same- that pesky bolt forward.
__________________
EastCoastAngel
For all your angel repair needs
978-530-6747
|
|
|
12-29-2012, 01:36 PM
|
#9
|
|
I had this problem when I put the Booster Bolt 2 on my Angel. Kept getting bolt stick and other minor problems. I went back to stock and everything performed well. Sometimes the tolerances from A1 to A1 are different and one will perform differently from the other.
|
|
|
12-29-2012, 02:33 PM
|
#10
|
|
Him, I didn't try the marker as it came, I mounted the booster bolt and the mojo board and got those prob, will mount org bolt and hope it steps leaking.
|
|
|
12-29-2012, 04:06 PM
|
#11
|
|
Found the problem, you had wright guys, the noid body have a dent
[IMG] [/IMG]
Is there any help ore do I need a new one ?
|
|
|
12-29-2012, 04:22 PM
|
#12
|
Child Please
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: WA
|
Yumm, please pm me when your PMs are enabled.
__________________
Adrenaline TM40 Luxe
HK Army Ripper Luxe X
PE CS2 Pro
Bob Long Marq Ripper VCOM
Tarantula Milled 2K3 AKA Excalibur
Ripper Angel LCD
Freeflow Clutch & Caliber, Spanky Fishbone, ID Ripper
My Old Feedback
|
|
|
12-29-2012, 07:29 PM
|
#13
|
The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
|
It's kind of hard to tell from the pic how severe/deep the dent is. Pushing the piston through the body manually will tell you if it's sticking though. If so, unfortunately there's no fix besides a new solenoid.
|
|
|
12-29-2012, 11:05 PM
|
#14
|
god save captain slow
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Butts
|
Next time, don't use air tools to tighten the solenoid cover.
__________________
ST:Tech -- Three solid failures away from emptying large quantities of ammunition into a daycare.
|
|
|
12-30-2012, 01:40 AM
|
#15
|
Fight.
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Long Island
|
A good tip for tightening the solenoid cover is to hold the allen key up vertical so you turn/have leverage with the short end. Once it is snug you stop, this will avoid over tightening.
|
|
|
12-30-2012, 01:45 AM
|
#16
|
The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerJoe
A good tip for tightening the solenoid cover is to hold the allen key up vertical so you turn/have leverage with the short end. Once it is snug you stop, this will avoid over tightening.
|
Excellent advice - that's always how I do it, and it's a safe way to go. With the short end of the hex key you'll have a good feel for how tight the screw is.
|
|
|
01-01-2013, 11:20 PM
|
#17
|
angry bird
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: ohio
|
There is a potential fix, but it will take a custom made tool. The tool is simple but needs to be made precisely. While I have not used this technique on this part, I have used it on other items that require a dent be pushed out of a cylinder.
The tool is basically a tight fitting rod with a flat ground on one side. You then insert the rod into the cylinder with the flat facing the dent and rotate the rod. You may need to place the part in a vice and use a wrench on the rod to turn the dent out. This will iron out the dent though you want the rod to be made of a harder metal/composition than the cylinder or you will simply deform the rod.
Here is a rough MS Paint drawing of the tool:
I'm not sure if having a custom tool made is less expensive than a replacement part or if the part can handle the dent removal process but it is a way that works in other applications. If you have access to a lathe and a grinder you can make the tool at home for very little cost. I would make the tool as close to a perfect fit (ignoring the dent) as you can get. It also doesn't hurt to smooth the transition from ground down area to full diameter of the rod. It also helps if the tip of the rod is chamfered to allow easier insertion into the part. I would have included them in the drawing but my MS paint skills are minimal.
Last edited by benzy2 : 01-01-2013 at 11:25 PM.
|
|
|
01-01-2013, 11:38 PM
|
#18
|
The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
|
That would be worth a try - you can't break it worse than it's already broke, so all you'd be out is the material.
|
|
|
01-02-2013, 06:04 PM
|
#19
|
|
thx benzy2
I will try that , will post pics if it works
|
|
|
01-09-2013, 10:34 AM
|
#20
|
|
Today I finally had some time to make that tool was a bit tricky to find something in the right size but I did work :-)
The gun shoots awesome , did shoot just a mag full of paint and run out of air , will test it more tomorrow and make the pics from the tool , maybe it helps someone here.
Thank you all guys :-)
|
|
|
01-09-2013, 07:19 PM
|
#21
|
The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
|
Very nice. Much better than dropping a hundred bucks on a new solenoid.
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|