Threshold problems, I have tried everything

Arstron · 02-18-2013, 12:01 PM

I am officially out of ideas. The bolt simply will not move in my threshold. When the trigger is pulled you hear the air puff out of the solenoid. There are no leaks at all. With the back cap off, I can freely move the bolt back and forth with no problems. Also when if I move the bolt to the forward position then put the back cap on and air it up, air is getting to the bolt to move it backwards. For what ever reason its not being released or air isnt getting to the dump chamber it seems.

Here is a list of everything I have tried.

New orings on the bolt, inside the body, and solenoid.
Tried my revi bolt.
Tried the known working solenoid out of my g3 (thresy solenoid worked fine in the g3 also).
Tried my g3 and revi HPR.
Tried my revi and g3 board.
Replaced the orings on the stock back cap, also tried a brand new techt back cap.
edit: New battery

As I typed this out the only thing I can think of that I havnt tried is checking the air passages, I just flushed it out with a syringe and alcohol, but didnt see any debris come out. I am out of air and cant test it, so I will have to wait until tomorrow to give it a try. Anyone have any other ideas?

firefoxx04 · 02-18-2013, 12:23 PM

i need to ponder this.

try your g3 board

xmc1146 · 02-18-2013, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arstron

I am officially out of ideas. The bolt simply will not move in my threshold. When the trigger is pulled you hear the air puff out of the solenoid. There are no leaks at all. With the back cap off, I can freely move the bolt back and forth with no problems. Also when if I move the bolt to the forward position then put the back cap on and air it up, air is getting to the bolt to move it backwards. For what ever reason its not being released or air isnt getting to the dump chamber it seems.

Here is a list of everything I have tried.

New orings on the bolt, inside the body, and solenoid.
Tried my revi bolt.
Tried the known working solenoid out of my g3 (thresy solenoid worked fine in the g3 also).
Tried my g3 and revi HPR.
Tried my revi and g3 board.
Replaced the orings on the stock back cap, also tried a brand new techt back cap.

As I typed this out the only thing I can think of that I havnt tried is checking the air passages, I just flushed it out with a syringe and alcohol, but didnt see any debris come out. I am out of air and cant test it, so I will have to wait until tomorrow to give it a try. Anyone have any other ideas?

if you hear air puffing it only means you have really bad bolt stick.
could be a bad battery (could be showing good voltage but not enoubh mAH to push it) have you try to increase dwell to 16 because that the stock dwell when you use the stock bolt. there was a thread on the old dangerouspower.org forum back in the day about it that the bolt would not move and the guy figured that dwell was too low.

you may also have wrong orings put in and breech oring could be way too small.

you may also have to do a major overhaul cleaning to get the gunk out of the passages. run hot water to it to see if you have a good flow coming out of the passages. the way to do this is plug the barrel side and feedneck side then put water pressure from your kitchen sink, then look carefully if there good flow of water coming out of the solenoid ports at the bottom. you can use a foam to plug the two sides.

inspect every single orings on the bolt, breech and back cap again and make sure you have the right sizes in place. or send it to me and i can take a look at it

firefoxx04 · 02-18-2013, 01:05 PM

puffing can also be a junk noid.. but if it works on the g3...

try the g3 reg and board on the threshy (obv. you cannot install the g3 board but you can plug it in)

xmc1146 · 02-18-2013, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firefoxx04

puffing can also be a junk noid.. but if it works on the g3...

try the g3 reg and board on the threshy (obv. you cannot install the g3 board but you can plug it in)

he did that already i think. but also i wonder what's his HPR cause it might be too low coming from the G3 then when you on the threshold it would not cycle. i did have to change the noid on the use threshold that i bought and put the G3 noid on there and it works like a charm.

Arstron · 02-18-2013, 01:09 PM

Thanks xmc, I did forget to mention I tried 2 brand new duracell 9volts.

The problem is solved though, there must of been trash in one of the passages that I washed out with the alcohol. I decided I didnt want to wait and filled my tank up at lunch, shoots great. Sometimes I just need to type things out to think of new ideas, but thanks everyone. Now all my DP markers shoot great again.

I think I will add flushing the entire markers to my check list for when I buy a used marker.

xmc1146 · 02-18-2013, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arstron

Thanks xmc, I did forget to mention I tried 2 brand new duracell 9volts.

The problem is solved though, there must of been trash in one of the passages that I washed out with the alcohol. I decided I didnt want to wait and filled my tank up at lunch, shoots great. Sometimes I just need to type things out to think of new ideas, but thanks everyone. Now all my DP markers shoot great again.

I think I will add flushing the entire markers to my check list for when I buy a used marker.

haha, yes do the flushing like what i mentioned to you and you will see how much gunk is in there. alcohol dries up gunk. you need hot water to disipate the lube and it would flow out of there. you may have to let it sit in the hot water for a while too.

i think though that this is the number cause by Dow base type of lube and causes the noid to malfunction.

FrmrSpecialist · 02-18-2013, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arstron

Thanks xmc, I did forget to mention I tried 2 brand new duracell 9volts.

The problem is solved though, there must of been trash in one of the passages that I washed out with the alcohol. I decided I didnt want to wait and filled my tank up at lunch, shoots great. Sometimes I just need to type things out to think of new ideas, but thanks everyone. Now all my DP markers shoot great again.

I think I will add flushing the entire markers to my check list for when I buy a used marker.

What I usually do us air up the gun with no bolt or back cap in while cycling the solenoid....

LeeDowney · 02-19-2013, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xmc1146

haha, yes do the flushing like what i mentioned to you and you will see how much gunk is in there. alcohol dries up gunk. you need hot water to disipate the lube and it would flow out of there. you may have to let it sit in the hot water for a while too.

Hey guys. Is there a thread or specific instructions on how to flush a G5? I had to send mine back to DP for the same issues the guy that initiated this thread is having. I'm just wondering now if this was the problem. How do you flush and let this marker sit in hot water and not ruin the electronics? I know the obvious answer would be to remove the electronics in the grip but is that possible?

Thanks.

Arstron · 02-19-2013, 08:22 AM

Remove the grip frame, the eyes covers, eyes and detents, the bolt and back cap, the regulator, and the solenoid. You now have the bare body. Now you can soak it in the hot water.

What I did though was used a plastic syringe filled with alcohol. I first pressed the tip tightly to the holes in the bottom of the body where the solenoid was and squirted the alcohol into them, you should have a decent amount of pressure doing this so watch where you face the body. One hole will shoot liquid/air out of the vertical asa (where the regulator screws in) the other will squirt into the body. At the vertical asa area, you should do the same to the holes here. I dont have my g5 in front of me and cant remember how the holes went. But liquid will come out of one of the solenoid holes, a hole further back that goes through the grip frame, and into the body.

LeeDowney · 02-19-2013, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arstron

Remove the grip frame, the eyes covers, eyes and detents, the bolt and back cap, the regulator, and the solenoid. You now have the bare body. Now you can soak it in the hot water.

What I did though was used a plastic syringe filled with alcohol. I first pressed the tip tightly to the holes in the bottom of the body where the solenoid was and squirted the alcohol into them, you should have a decent amount of pressure doing this so watch where you face the body. One hole will shoot liquid/air out of the vertical asa (where the regulator screws in) the other will squirt into the body. At the vertical asa area, you should do the same to the holes here. I dont have my g5 in front of me and cant remember how the holes went. But liquid will come out of one of the solenoid holes, a hole further back that goes through the grip frame, and into the body.

Thank you.

Arstron · 02-19-2013, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeDowney

Thank you.

I should add, when you are done, make sure you dry everything off real good. Take a towel (I use blue shop towels) and roll it up real tight and stick it inside the body. Once it is all the way threw, spin the body/twist the towel around to dry the inside. This will clean out any lube also so I would recommend wiping the bolt down as well and relubing it.

firefoxx04 · 02-19-2013, 11:38 AM

everyone knows to flush out the air passages on a used gun, geeesh. tried everything my butt!

Trigger Finger · 02-19-2013, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firefoxx04

everyone knows to flush out the air passages on a used gun, geeesh. tried everything my butt!

good thing someone mentioned this now when im about to get my beat to hell threshy. im definitely going to do that if i can get the air passage way screws out in one piece.

Arstron · 02-19-2013, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trigger Finger

good thing someone mentioned this now when im about to get my beat to hell threshy. im definitely going to do that if i can get the air passage way screws out in one piece.

I didnt remove mine, I thought about it, but it didnt seem to be needed.