Bolt cap installation?

HellRaizer2125 · 03-13-2007, 11:38 AM

Im going to be buying the new CP bolt cap, and i was wondering how i would go about taking the stock one off and installing the new one? I know how to take the original one off but would i need to locktite the screws holding the bolt cap in place? And does the bottom one need to stick out a bit more?

GnArKiLL04 · 03-13-2007, 11:41 AM

loosend the screws and yank it out, but be careful cuz theres an oring in there. It takes a bit of muscle to take it out and put it in. Slightly tighten the screws and leave the bottom one sticking halfway out.

HellRaizer2125 · 03-13-2007, 11:44 AM

Ok, and do i need to use locktite on any of the screws?

HellRaizer2125 · 03-13-2007, 12:13 PM

Oh and also, under the back cap to the right, there is a allen screw deep in the milling. What is that used for?

freerider0611 · 03-13-2007, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellRaizer2125

Ok, and do i need to use locktite on any of the screws?

the screws fit really tight (on mine atlest) buut it wouldnt hurt to put some blue locktite on them.

GnArKiLL04 · 03-13-2007, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellRaizer2125

Oh and also, under the back cap to the right, there is a allen screw deep in the milling. What is that used for?

no, and DO NOT mess with that.

threeham · 03-13-2007, 01:17 PM

The screw on the bottom of the body aligns the manifold to line up correctly with the solinoid. Don't play around with this screw, leave it exactly like it is, back the other 3 screws out and pop the backcap off; push the new backcap on and resecure the 3 allen screws you backed out. You want the backcap to spin freely from the manifold; but be secure enough to not pop off.

newartist · 03-13-2007, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellRaizer2125

Ok, and do i need to use locktite on any of the screws?

Hi,

On my manifold the little sescrews fit O.K. but they are not at all tight and IMO a little blue LocTite was a good idea. Some folks have had these setscrews back out and lock the bolt/manifold assembly in the body bore. This is bad and will cause damage to the bore which will need to be fixed properly to avoid a lifetime of cut O-rings everytime the bolt assembly is pulled out and reinstalled.

Hope this helps!

newartist · 03-13-2007, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellRaizer2125

Oh and also, under the back cap to the right, there is a allen screw deep in the milling. What is that used for?

That was used to drill an air channel in the body. Don't mess with it unless you have a confirmed air leak there.

Hope this helps!

newartist · 03-13-2007, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellRaizer2125

Im going to be buying the new CP bolt cap, and i was wondering how i would go about taking the stock one off and installing the new one? I know how to take the original one off but would i need to locktite the screws holding the bolt cap in place? And does the bottom one need to stick out a bit more?

Here is the way I do it.

To get the rear cap off you need to loosen the four setscrews untill they are almost out of the manifold. Then just gently pull the rear cap off with a bit of a twist past the internal O-ring.

At this point I recomend that you pull the internal manifold O-ring out and remove all four setscrews. Clean out the setscrew threads and the rear chamber of the manifold along with the rear cap threads and O-ring groove with lacquer thinner letting them all dry fully. I did this the first time because I found some aluminum chips in the grease on my rear cap and I'm paranoid. Use half a drop of blue Loctite on each setscrew and start the setscrews in the manifold half way in. Clean and lightly relube the O-ring but only reuse it if it's not visibly damaged in anyway. Install the rear cap gently pressing the cap in as you rotate it to get it past the internal O-ring.

Once the rear cap will seat fully (which indicates that the O-ring is seated in the rear cap O-ring groove), turn each setscrew in one at a time stopping when the rear cap starts to feel at all tighter. Repeat the setscrew tightening for the three setscrews at the 9:00, 12:00 and 3:00 positions. The fourth setscrew at the 6:00 position is bit longer than the others and needs to extend out of the manifold slightly to help locate the bolt/manifold assembly. The rear cap needs to turn smoothly and freely to be assembled correctly.

While the four manifold setscrews used to retain the rear cap are captive once the bolt/manifold assembly is installed there is the potential for the setscrews to work their way out and lock the bolt/manifold assembly in the bore of the marker body. This is the reason I suggest a touch of removable Loctite on the manifold setscrews to keep them from coming out and scoring or locking the bolt/manifold in the body.

Hope this helps!

threeham · 03-13-2007, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newartist

While the four manifold setscrews used to retain the rear cap are captive once the bolt/manifold assembly is installed there is the potential for the setscrews to work their way out and lock the bolt/manifold assembly in the bore of the marker body. This is the reason I suggest a touch of removable Loctite on the manifold setscrews to keep them from coming out and scoring or locking the bolt/manifold in the body.

Hope this helps!

This is a very REAL problem! If you regularly play with your marker(More than a case atleast every week) this makes maintenance ALOT more hassle-free. One easy way to cause this problem is improperly aligning the set screw with the milled trac in the body, putting pressure on the screw will strip the threads of the manifold and fall out from firing vibration.

If anything I think newartists post belongs somewhere; as simple as a backcap installation sounds he really covered all the angles.