[wolverine]

I have been seeing a lot of new names around here lately and that is good

If you are new to the Impulse, please take some time and do the following:

1. Read the Manual. It's there for a reason. If you got your Impulse used and it did not come with a manula see #2.

2. Read the Impulse FAQ. I have spent a great deal of time trying to maintain the FAQ to the best of my abilities. Most of the information comes from the answers to questions already posted in an Impulse forum somewhere, I visit 4 different Impulse forums. The link to the FAQ is in my signature.

As always, feel free to post in the Impulse Forum and let me know if you feel that there is something that should be added to the Impulse FAQ.

wolverine

[Xtreme Doc]

According to Wolverine's bolt comparison chart 2. The 2 most consistent bolts were the ND equalizer and the VooDoo. See chart below. There are other bolts available as well and this chart in no wise indicates that the other bolts and or parts shouldn't be used.

Bolts, Bolt Pins, Hammers, Rams, Total weight, Total Cost

ND Equalizer($34), Stock Pin, Rat Hole SS($20), ND slick shot($26), 1220 grains, $ 80.00

ND Equalizer($34), Ti pin($22), Rat Hole SS($20), ND slick shot($26), 1107 grains, $102.00

ND Equalizer($34), Ti pin($22), ND SS($18), ND slick shot($26), 1421 grains, $ 99.00

ND Equalizer($34), Ti pin($22), Eclipse Ti($18), ND slick shot($26), 1106 grains, $100.00

ND Equalizer($34), Stock Pin, Eclipse Ti($18), ND slick shot($26), 1219 grains, $ 78.00

ND Equalizer($34), Ti pin($22), Evil SS ($30), ND slick shot($26), 1258 grains, $112.00

ND Equalizer($34), Ti pin($22), Eclipse SS($20), ND slick shot($26), 1379 grains, $102.00

ND Equalizer($34), Ti pin($22), Rat Hole SS($20), PC quicksilver($40), 1047 grains, $116.00

ND Equalizer($34), Stock Pin, Rat Hole SS($20), PC quicksilver($40), 1160 grains, $ 94.00

ND Equalizer($34), Stock Pin, Eclipse Ti($18), PC quicksilver($40), 1159 grains, $ 92.00

ND Equalizer($34), Stock Pin, Rat Hole B($13), PC quicksilver($40), 1214 grains, $ 87.00

ND Equalizer($34), Stock Pin, Rat Hole B($13), ND slick shot ($26), 1274 grains, $ 73.00

ND Equalizer($34), Delrin($15), Rat Hole B($13), ND slick shot ($26), 1092 grains, $ 88.00

ND equalizer($34), ti pull pin($22), Rat Hole B($13), ND slick shot ($26), 1161 grains, $ 95.00 ADDITION FROM "IMPossible"

ND 5 inch equalizer, Evil SS hammer, ND slick shot ram, delrin pin-1189 g's. ADDITION FROM "TeamSavage1"


VooDoo($36), Stock pin, Stock Hammer, Stock Ram, 1177 grains, $ 36.00

VooDoo($36), Ti pin($22), Rat Hole SS($20), ND slick shot($26), 1217 grains, $104.00

VooDoo($36), Ti pin($22), Rat Hole SS($20), PC quicksilver($40), 1157 grains, $118.00

VooDoo($36), Ti pin($22), Rat Hole B($13), PC quicksilver($40), 1211 grains, $111.00

VooDoo($36), Delrin($15), Rat Hole SS($20), ND slick shot($26), 1145 grains, $ 97.00

VooDoo($36), Delrin($15), ND SS($18), PC quicksilver($40), 1293 grains, $ 78.00

VooDoo($36), Ti pin($22), Rat Hole SS($20), Stock Ram, 1183 grains, $ 78.00

VooDoo($36), Ti pin($22), ND SS($18), PC quicksilver($40), 1362 grains, $116.00

VooDoo($36), Delrin($15), ND SS($18), Demonic H.P.($40), 1184 grains, $109.00

VooDoo($36), Ti pin($22), ND SS($18), Demonic H.P.($40), 1253 grains, $116.00

VooDoo($36), Delrin($15), ND SS($18), Eclipse Ti($20), 1220 grains, $ 89.00

Voodoo($36), stock pin, stock hammer, Slik-shot($26), 1211 grains, $ 62 ADDITION FROM "Slow_Target"

Voodoo($36), Stock Pin, Eclipse TI Hammer and Shaft($30), 1196 grains, $ 66 ADDITION FROM "speedyejl"




Based on weight and price: You make the decision on which would best suite your needs and pocket book!

I trust this helps in making the decision process a little easier when it comes to internal weight and price comparising.

NEW: Additional ones added!

[Smallies]

Alright, for those of you who had the same problem as me, that is, you have FSDO & an LPR with very efficient internals (NDZ valve, NDZ bolt, NDZ slik-shot ram etc.), here's how ya fix it.

Look at this post if you aren't sure what I'm talking about:
https://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=202698

This guide to fixing FSDO is for people who have SOLENOID related FSDO only. That is, their hammer assembly is PROPERLY lubed and their solenoid is PROPERLY lubed, however their board is just not supplying enough power to operate the solenoid properly at a low dwell setting. If yours aren't properly lubed, go read the guides to find out how to properly lube both of them.

Set your dwell to zero. Put your LPR at maximum pressure. Set operating pressure to 160psi.

Shoot your gun. If it has FSDO, raise the dwell 5 beeps. Wait 5 minutes. Shoot, if it has FSDO, raise 5 dwell beeps, wait 5 minutes. And keep doing this until FSDO goes away.

Once it goes away, lower the dwell 1 beep, wait 5 minutes, and shoot. Keep repeating this until FSDO comes back. Once it comes back, raise the dwell 1 beep. FSDO should be gone now.

Now, adjust your LPR so your gun shoots 280fps. Wait 5 minutes, shoot the gun. If you have FSDO, raise dwell a beep, and compensate by lowering your LPR until it shoots 280fps. Keep repeating this process until you have no FSDO and you're shooting 280fps.

If you find your gun is inconsistent, raise the LPR pressure a tiny bit, back off on your main operating pressure a tiny bit. Keep doing so until the gun is consistent & shoots 280fps. Your dwell should not be changed while doing this.

Using this guide, I was able to fine tune my gun to shoot 280fps, be consistent within 3fps, and be very efficient, as well as make it so the bolt stops on paint instead of chopping it. Your gun should simply rip if you follow this guide.

Also, I found FOM's guide did NOT work properly for my gun. So you might want to try mine if you have FSDO. Also, I've spoken with some other people who have NDZ valve's as well, and oddly enough, when they raise their operating pressure past 160psi, the velocity stays the same or DECREASES? This occurs on my gun as well. I have no idea, but its very interesting. Lower pressure apparently equals higher velocity on the NDZ valves.

Let me know if this fixes / does not fix your problem! And PLEASE be sure its not improper lubing thats causing your FSDO!

[BlackOmegaPBall]

If you don't find the answer to your question here, please either post it, or PM it to me, I will find it out.

A large number of triggers and trigger frames have come out fore the impulse lately. I-frame, WERM frame, OTB 90* frame, Adrenalin Frame, Eclipse magnetic blade, Eclipse blade, NDZ Magnetic Blade Trigger, NDZ Blade Trigger? Whats the difference? which one is for me?
I'm going to try to answer all people trigger questions here in one thread.

**********************************************
Lets start with aftermarket frames:

There are two types of aftermarket frames; those which require the stock solenoid/battery/board tray, and those that have a new tray built into them.

Frames Requiring the Stock Tray:
OTB 90* vertical frame
I have shot an iR3 with the space frame, which is the basis for the OTB 90* frame, they are pretty comfortable, but take a lot of getting used to, and if you dont have a drop forward that drops your tank away from the grip a decent distance you wont be able to reap all the benefits of the vert frame (comfortable firing position, etc.)
www.offthebreak.com
Price: $ N/A at this time

IPB WERM Frame
The WERM Frame has a shape much like that of the Angel trigger frame, as well as having a trigger with similar adjustment settings and adjustability. If you have shot angels and like the feel of the angel frame and trigger shape, you should love the WERM frame. It allows great speed, and is comfortable to shoot.
www.wermmods.com
Price: $145

Frames With Built-In trays:
I-Frame
Personally, I like the shape of the .45 frame, and for my shooting styel, im able to shoot faster on a .45 stlye frame than a vertical frame. The I-Frame is one of the fastest and easiest to shoot frames for the impulse. It gets rid of the tray between your grip and the marker body itself, which shortens your gun. Also, the grip and trigger have been moved forward an inch or more, this adds a balance and custom kind of feel to your gun. www.hypersportworks.com
Price: $160.00

Adrenalin Impulse Frame
With the release of the Adrenalin Impulse came a plethora of new and innovatice impulse parts, one of which is the Adrenalin Trigger Frame. This trigger frame is of the standard .45 style with a newly shaped trigger guard and a magnetic trigger. The grip and trigger have been moved to the front of the frame to shorten up your gun, however, this move does cause problems for those with vertical MaxFlows, you will require a 15* ASA if you have vert MaxFlow, but not if you have a gas thru grip or other smaller vertical regs. The adjustable magnetic trigger is fast and easy to shoot. Comfortable trigger frame with fast trigger.
www.buypb.com
Price: $144.99

**********************************************
Aftermarket Triggers

New Dezigns Blade Trigger
The New Dezigns blade trigger is an adjustable stick style trigger with two set screws. One set screw adjusts when you activate the trigger, the other adjusts how long the pull is. Probably one of the nicest blade triggers available due to the adjustment screws not backing out and having nylon nubs on the end so they dont tear up your frames anno job. Also, it is wider than the Eclipse blade. This is a comfortable trigger, great for walking, comes in a variety of colors to match your gun and carries a $25 price tag from www.e-paintballoutlet.com

Toxic Double Trigger
The toxic double trigger has the shape of a standard double trigger, but has the adjustability of a blade. This is a wonderful choice for those players that want a double trigger but want something that can be adjusted. It also is $25 from www.e-paintballoutlet.com

Eclipse Blade Trigger
This is another stick style adjustable trigger. Two adjustment screws, one for trigger activation, and one for length of pull. Some people have reported problems with this trigger due to needing to loctite the screws (they tend to back out) and the fact that the screws are not capped with any type of plastic and therefore rub metal on metal with your trigger frame and can ruin your anno. Nevertheless, if you like a thinner trigger, require a sticky style, and need adjustability, this is the way to go.
$21.95 at www.paintballgear.com

Eclipse Magnetic Blade Trigger
The Eclipse magnetic blade trigger is the same as the blade trigger, just with the added snappy return of a magnets. If you dont have the newer style trigger frame which has a 1/4 UNF hole tapped for the trigger spring retaining screw, you will need to have the hole tapped, otherwise, the return magnet will not be able to be mounted into the grip.
$27.95 from www.paintballgear.com

Demonic Devils Tongue Trigger
A truly uniquely designed trigger, takes elements from both stick style triggers and the more traditional double triggers. It has two adjustment screws, one for trigger pull length, and one for trigger switch activation. The trigger shape is much like that of a stick trigger, but near the bottom there is a dip like you would see in a double trigger. Very comfortable.
$30 from www.e-paintballoutlet.com

IPB Killer Kat V2 WERMstick
Basic stick/blade style trigger with 4 different set screws. WERM sent me a copy of this trigger to review. It was easy to install, but the setup process was tedious. Once i had it comfortably setup, it was a VERY VERY nice non-magnetic trigger, the best I have felt on an Impulse, however, I do prefer the feel magnetic return triggers. A set screw for each of the front pins, one at the front of the trigger, and one for switch activation allow you to truly set up your trigger any way you like it, even to fire when you pull upwards on the trigger.
$42 (add $2 for a color other than silver) from www.wermmods.com

IPB Version2 WERMstick
A wide stick/blade style trigger. Has basic adjustment screws. Included in the price are two trigger springs, one soft, one stiff. An added feature of the WERMstick is the front index finger "rest". Adds a special look and maybe even an extra edge to your trigger.
$38 (add $2 for colors other than silver) from www.wermmods.com

**********************************************

Once again, like I say in all my posts, it comes down to personal preferance in the end. Go to storesand try outthe frames and triggers and shoot them yourself, think about your style; how you shoot, where your fingers are, etc. and you can and see which one sounds like it will be your type of trigger/frame.
Hopes this helps

*UPDATE* more triggers added!

[Smallies]

TO GET RID OF FSDO *WITHOUT* an LPR:

Take the back cap off your ram, clean out ALL lube you see. Move the hammer/ram forward and use a Q-tip to remove ALL lube out of the hole where the ram is... now put the cap back on. Do NOT re-lube your imp.

Cycle the ram 10-20 times with your finger (by pushing on the pin obviously), gas up your gun, shoot. If it has FSDO still, its solenoid related.

If FSDO is gone, your FSDO was hammer assembly related and is now gone.

If its still there, clean your solenoid. Then raise your dwell a few beeps (2-3 beeps), lower operating pressure until you shoot 280. Wait 5 minutes. Shoot. If its still there, raise dwell again, lower op. pressure, until u shoot 280. Wait 5 min, shoot. Repeat this process until FSDO is gone.

One other thing:

In the future, when you lube your pulse, lube the o-rings on the hammer assembly and then put a little lube into each of the holes on the hammer assembly.

Shoot the gun 50 times or so with air to cycle the lube through your gun.

Now take the back cap off the back of your hammer assembly and using a Q-tip, clean all the lube out of the rear area of the ram. Trust me you'll never see FSDO again, and your gun will be properly lubed.

When you lube your gun, a big wad of the lube ends up in the rear of your hammer assembly and this causes massive FSDO.

[robertjuric]

With all the boards coming out, and already out, I thought Id take a little bit of time and put together an "overview" of the different boards available, or soon to be available, to help you see through all the fog, and figure out what is right for you.

SmartParts Cricket Board
The Cricket Board is the new 2K2 circuit board for the Impulse. This board features a push button for on/off, and the dwell setting is fully digital, meaning you use buttons for setting the dwell one step up or down in stead of the old potentiometer dwell. The button dwell is tourney legal. The board has a blue, blinking LED instead of the old green/amber LED, and the board makes the chirping sound of a cricket for signaling on/off, dwell setting etc. You can choose between a normal cricket board, or a cricket vision board. The cricket vision does not have to be adjusted, unlike the old vision which had to be adjusted to each color of paint. This board will adjust it for you.

ECS
http://sharpfront.tripod.com/
While not a board, ECS is an important upgrade electronic wise. ECS, which stands for Enhanced Cricket Software, is a software upgrade designed for the Impulse's with the non-vision cricket boards. This software can be put on any non-vision cricet board and add many new features to the board. Its mulitple firing modes include: Semi-Auto, 3 Round Burst, 6 Round Burst, Full-Auto, and Safe/Edit. The rate of fire is adjustable from 1 to 25bps, and affects all firing modes. It has an expanded dwell range, that ranges from 1 to 20 milliseconds, and is adjustable in 0.25 millisecond increments. It also includes adjustable trigger de-bounce, which ranges between 0 and 100 milliseconds, adjustable in 2 millisecond increments. The default settings are 14bps, 10ms dwell, and 10ms de-bounce. It uses LED strobe patterns to indicate firing mode. Cost is $30.

ECS Vision
Tourney legal: Semi auto only (extended dwell, better eye programing, trigger debounce, adjustable rate of fire 1-25 BPS)
Non Tourney legal: Semi and Full auto (all of the above + full auto 1-25 BPS, 3 and 6 shot burst).

Soon to be released.

Update: Price will be $30.00 including return shipping.
That's great programming at an affordable price!

KM2 Genesis Board:
http://www.exarin.com/
The Genesis is an after-market circuit board that drops in and replaces the Impulse's stock board. No modifications are required to use this board. It comes with a LED status indicator, 9v Conversion, On/Off switch, Mircoswitch trigger, and all of the Gabriel fire modes. The microswitch is installed opposite of the stock board to give a crisper trigger pull. It has tourney locks for semi and turbo, and complies with the 8.75 shots/sec limit. When not in tourney mode, the mode is programmed with the trigger. Firing modes include: Semi-Auto, Turbo, Turbo-9, Double Trigger, Programmable Burst, and Full Auto. Costs $109+S&H.

WAS Equalizer Board
http://www.wickedairsportz.com/
Soon to be released for the Impulse after have much success with the Intimidator, the Equalizer will offer all of the same features of the Intimidator's Equalizer board. These features include: adjustable dwell, trigger debounce, eye mode, hopper trigger, game timer, event timer, and shot warning. Also new for the Impulse version, will be the ability to program the solenoid voltage output, which will virtually eliminate FSDO. Also, it has fixed the problem with the stock eye logic "seeing" a ball, and balls having contrasting colors. Major functions(dwell, trigger debounce, and eye mode) will be programmable via the trigger and power button, while other functions will be programmable via the Equalink, and interface cable for the PC and PDAs. There will be no side buttons, and it will have an internal tourney lock. A multi-color status LED and push button on/off will be used. Also an optional LCD connector will be included. The Equalizer will be compatible with all models of the Impulse, and all grip frames. It will work with both vision, and non-vision versions. He put the estimated price at $135+, and e-paintball outlet is already taking preorders, and has a long waiting list.

While there are others rumored to be in the works, as of right now, they are just that, rumors.

[Elf]

Recently I've seen so many threads on "Is this better than that!" or "Which impulse is better for a front/back/mid player?" and I've decided to just help compile a list to help all you undecided buyers on which impulse to get.

First. All impulses can run nitrogen and/or anti siphon CO2. For nitro, it doesn’t matter if you have a high or low pressure tank, both are fine as long as you have your low pressure max flow on. (or other regulator).

So… On to the list! (In no particular order)

1) Standard Impulse- The standard impulse from smart parts. Good if you want to buy a standard impulse and upgrade from there.

PRICE: $400-450

2) Rat Impulse- From www.e-paintballoutlet.com and www.ratguns.com

2003 Rat:
--Custom Rat Milled Body
--Custom Rat Front Cap
--Custom Rat Feed Tube (With O-Ring Grooves)
--Vertical Reg -Freak Barrel
--Blade Trigger
--Smart Parts Sticky Grips
--Vertical Full Flow (VFF)
--Stubby VooDoo bolt
--New Designs Slick Shaft
--Smart Parts Brass Hammer
--Match Annodized
--Lifetime Warrenty

Rat Junior:
--Custom Rat Milling
--Custom Rat Front Cap
--Custom Rat Feed Tube (With O-ring grooves)
--SP Sticky Grips
--SP Progressive Barrel
--Blade Trigger
--Delrin Bolt
--Stainless Steel Ram
--Brass Hammer
--And a lifetime Warrenty.

PRICES:
2003 Rat Impulse: $700
Rat Junior: $525 (different stages of RJRs are avaible also)

3) Nasty Impulse- From www.paintballwholesalers.com Vision is optional.

--Magnetic Trigger
--Freak Barrel
--Gel Grips
--Voodoo Bolt

PRICE: $630

4) Strange Impulse- Designed by Team Strange and can be purchased from www.smartparts.com.

--Matching Freak Barrel Front and Back
--Matching Twister Top (High Rise)
--Max-Flo Vertical Regulator
--Matching Vertical Gas-thru Handle
--Short Delrin Bolt
--Titanium Bolt Pin
--Brass Hammer Assembly
--Low Pressure Regulator (LPR)
--Tapped End Cap for LPR
--Tapeworm with LPR Fitting
--Smart Grip
--Blade Trigger
--Base price is

PRICE: 1150 dollars.

5) Freak Factory Impulse- Impulse designed by the Freak Factory team and can be bought from www.smartparts.com.

--Freak Factory Bolt
--Brass Hammer Head
--Titanium Hammer Piston
--Titanium Bolt Pin
--Vision Board
--Shorty Grip Frame
--Blade Trigger
--FF.Gas

Also has freak factory milling and annodizing.

PRICE: $995

6) Meteor Impulse- A basic custom impulse and has Meteor milling and anodizing. Can be bought from www.meteorpaintball.com.

--Tapeworm
--All American barrel
--Blade trigger.

PRICE: Unknown

7) Adrenalin Impulse- The Adrenalin is usually referred to as the daddy of all custom impulses, as it has altered airways to make it super-efficient. It comes with a huge amount of stuff, and some items can only be used with the adrenaline because of its altered airways.

--New Style Adrenalin Version "Cricket" Vision Board
--Adrenalin Bolt (Black Derlin) with Adrenalin Gel Decal
--Adrenalin Stainless Hammer
--Derlin Valve
--Adrenalin Serial # i.e. A.I.00023
--Adrenalin GP Slide Check
--Choice of Adrenalin Low Rise or Adrenalin Hi Rise
--Adrenalin Grip Frame
--Adrenalin Chrome Button
--Worlds First ever 4th Axis Impulse body
--Choice of Adrenalin Vertical Adapter or Adrenalin 15 Degree Adapter
--Adrenalin Single Trigger (for single frames) or Double Trigger (for double frames
--Adrenalin Gas Through Grip
--Adrenalin Rear Hammer Cap
--Adrenalin Bolt Pin and Adrenalin Threaded Head
--Adrenalin Stainless Steel Screw Set
--Adrenalin Front Cap
--Matching (both front AND back) freak barrel with choice of 1 insert (any size).
--Blasted Finish
--Solid Color anodizing (blue, red, purple, green, black, silver, etc)
--Color matched soft-gel sticky grips with Adrenalin Gel Decals
--Personalized Adrenalin plastic photo ID Card
Solid Colors start at 950 and packages can go up to 1450 dollars. Can be bought from www.buypb.com.

PRICE: Solid Colors: $950
Packages: $1450 and up

8) Predator Impulse- Another great custom impulse. It can be bought from www.imperialpaintball.com.

--Freak Barrel
--New Designz 15* ASA
--Custom Logo plate
--Predator valve cap
--Tarantula high or low rise
--Custom bolt with 4 tips
--New Deisgnz slick shot ram
--RIP valve
--Brass hammer
--Werm, predator, or stock frame.
--Predator custom milling and annodizing.
Can be bought from www.imperialpaintball.com.

PRICE: $710

9) Atomix Factory Team Impulse- Can be bought from www.atomixpaintball.com/mainbody.htm

PRICE: $700 (also avabile w/ I-Frame and Freak Barrel or additonal charge)


10) Python Impulse

--Custom PYTHON Milled Body w/ “Autocoker™” Barrel Threads & Stainless Steel Insert
--Custom PYTHON ASA Adapter w/ LPR Port and Check Valve Mod.
--Custom PYTHON Drop Forward w/ On/Off Valve
--Custom PYTHON Front cap w/ Tapeworm Caps (2)
--Custom PYTHON Low & Mid “Angel™” Thread Feed Ports (2 Feed Ports Total)
--“Cricket” Vision™ Board
--Vision™ System
--Low Pressure Regulator (LPR) w/ Kit
--Short Delrin Bolt (White Delrin)
--Titanium Bolt Pin
--Brass Hammer Assembly
--Blade Trigger - Magnetic
--Mini Gauges (2) for Inline & LPR Pressures
--Matching Aluminum Freak Back
--Matching Freak AA Front w/ One Insert
--Blasted Matte Solid Color Finish
--Color matched Soft-Gel Sticky Grip
--S.P.C.’s Comprehensive Customer Service and Lifetime Product Warrantee
Made by Southern Paintball Concepts: www.southernpb.com

PRICE: $1049

11) AVI and 32° Impulses- Basic custom impulses from www.pbgear.com (AVI) and www.32ice.com. (32*) Both come with a new barrel, trigger, milling, and annodizing, as well as vision.

12) Eclipse Impulse- From www.planeteclipse.com.

--Low Pressure Valve System Runs At 175 PSI
--All PU Seals In Ram Assembly
--Delrin Shortened 7-Port High-Flo Venturi Bolt
--Tourney Locking Reg
--Stainless Steel Eclipse Hammer
--Aggressor Solenoid Optimizer
--Electronics
--2002 Push Button “Cricket Board”
--Tourney Semi Auto Only Mode
--Power Isolation Switch
--Fire Pulse Indicator
--Push Button Digital Valve Dwell Control
--Vision Anti-Chop Electric Eye System
--Trigger Assembly
--2002 Magno Blade Trigger
--Trigger Length Adjustments
--Fire-Point Adjustment
--Magnetic Trigger Return Mechanism
--Matching Soft Gel Rubber Grips
--Vertical Low Rise Feed (Satin Guns)
--Vertical Hi-Rise Feed (Polished Guns)
--Swoosh Design following the theme of the Eclipse Cocker and Bushmaster.
--Dual Style Lens Coated Badges (Jewels)
--Dual Anti-Double Ball
--Bolt Relief, cut out at back for shorter bolt and improved ergonomics
--All bodies "Vision" compatible
--Other Features
--Eclipse Low-Pressure Chamber. Bigger volume chamber
--Vertical Front Mounted Reg with Mini Gauge Mounted.
--12inch Freak Barrel With 0.693 Insert
--1/4 inch Hose Kit For Flexible Mounting
--Anodising to: Body, Tray, Grip Frame, Barrel, LPC, Main Reg, Adjusters, Trigger
--High-Gloss Anodising or Satin Finish
--Choice Of: Single Color, Splash Or Fade Anodising

Specs:
--Weight: 1.10kg (2lb 6oz) w/o Barrel And Reg
--Length: 480mm (19_ inch) w/Barrel
--Gas Efficiency: 1500 Shots From 1.1 litre (68 cu in) 4500 psi Tank (Armageddon)
--Operating Pressure: 150-200 psi (Factory Set @ 150 psi For Testing)
--Rate-Of-Fire: 13 BPS in Semi, 20 BPS in Vision Mode

Optional Extras:
--Eclipse Fangz Button Guard
--Eclipse Aggressor High Flow Valve Set (increase Gas Efficiency by 10%)
--Eclipse Anti Double Balls
--Eclipse Drop Forwards / Drop Lines
Needless to say the Eclipse is a nice choice and can be bought from www.planeteclipse.com. PRICE: £718 (made in UK)

13) Toxic Impulse- You can buy it at www.toxicperformance.com.

--3 Pounds 9 Oz
--Toxic Trigger - Adjustable to as short as 1mm
--14 inch Freak barrel
--More comfortable, shorter height
--Delrin Bolt
--Titanium Pin
--Brass Hammer
--Tapeworm
--Anodizing -We only produce 10 guns per color
--Warrantee -We'll fix your marker forever

PRICE: 750

14) Ton Tons Impulse- Used by the French team Ton Tons Flingeurs. It comes with Ton Ton milling and anno.

--Magnetic Blade Trigger
--Stainless Hammer
--ANS Jackhammer LPR with tapeworm
--14" Freak barrel with .693 insert
--68 cubic inch, 4500 PSI Maxflo air system

Can be bought at http://www.netgamesmicro.com/acyd/home.html

PRICE: £1520 (made in UK)

15) Cash Money Impulse- Made by Mikes Paintball

--Vertical Regulator
--Freak Barrel w/.693 insert
--14" All American Front
--Tapeworm
--Magnetic trigger
--Brass hammer
--Strange delrin bolt
--Custom cut Ca$h Money bodies (the front cap is ready to accept an LPR).

PRICE: $700

16) Gothic Impulse- From www.fireballmountain.com

--Custom FBM Body
--I-Frame

PRICE: $725

[Elf]

17) Shocktech (SLF) Impulse- From www.shocktechusa.com

--3D Machined Body
--Super Fly Bolt
--Phat Hammer
--Custom Milling and Anodizing
--Matching Freak Barrel w/ 695 Stainless Insert
--Vertical Max Flow Regulator
--Matching mini drop forward and on/off bottomline w/ hoses and ---fittings
--Tapeworm w/ CPA fitting
--Blade Trigger
--Free upgrade to any future Shocktech Accessories for gun
--Smart Grip
--Intergrated Low Pressure Regulator

PRICE: $1200

18)Game Face Impulse (Thunder Impulse)- Can be bought from www.gamefacepaintball.com

--Lightwieght custom Game Face milled body
--Vertical regulator to bottom line set up
--Tapeworm
--14" Tear Drop Barrel
--Blade Trigger
--Custom center feed port

PRICE: Unknown

19)Evil Impulse

--I-Frame
--1/2" shorter
--Evil Barrel
--Smart Parts Vision (Optional)

PRICE: $825

20)SIC Impulse- From www.sicpaintball.com

--Custom SIC milling

PRICE: Varys for marker to marker

21)Blizzard Impulse

PRICE: Unknown

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok! Well, that ends the list of all the custom impulses there are out there, and I hope this guides you on your way to your purchase.

Remember, one marker isn’t better than the other, (example: is a rat better than a nasty?) its ALL PERSONAL PREFERENCE! Shoot the marker, then decide how you feel. You can buy all the parts on these custom impulses and put them on a standard impulse. (with the exception of the adrenaline impulse) So decide which one you like best.

Also, one impulse isn’t better than the other for whatever position you play on the field. Its all personal preference

And remember this: I was told by a friend of mine who said "I've never seen a bad impulse". Its very true. So remember that whatever impulse you buy, its going to be good. If anyone has anything to add then by all means DO IT, the purpose of this thread is to reduce the amount of "Should I get strange or an Adrenaline?" threads in our beloved forum. Happy hunting!

[Bill_Clinton]

Ok, I've seen so many questions about LPRs and Im just sick of seeing them. So, here I will comprise a thread with an LPR FAQ. If you have a question that HASN'T been answered, then feel free to post. Onto the info:

What will an LPR do for my gun?
1) Raise efficiency
a) The LPR will raise efficiency by enabling you to raise your operating pressure and lower you dwell while keeping your bolt/solenoid pressure at a safe psi.

2) Increase Consistency
a) It will increase your consistency by giving the bolt its own pressure instead of sharing with the rest of the gun. The less the main reg has to distribute, the less it has to divide out.

3) Accuracy
a) One of the main things about accuracy is consistency. If your pressure is flucutating, so are your shots. No shot to shot consistancy = poor accuracy.

What LPRs can I use on my Impulse?
1) You can use any cocker or Impulse LPR you want.

How do I install a cocker LPR?
1) I will take you step by step on how to install a cocker LPR, what parts are needed, and about how much it will cost.
a) First you will need to select the LPR of your choice.
b) Next, figure out if you want/need a new front cap. There an several options available so shop around.
c) You will also need an LPR nipple. Both Smart Parts and NDZ make them.
d) Find out where you want to mount your LPR.
e) If mounting on the VA, then take out the PRV or screw and screw the LPR into the hole. If you want to mount it on the front cap, take out the plug on the front of it and screw the LPR in where the plug was.
f) After you have your LPR installed, install the LPR nippled. If you look down the barrel, you will either have a tapeworm or an air passage plug on the left side. Take whichever it is out, and screw the LPR nipple where it was.
g) Make sure you have a barb on the LPR, if you do, then connect a piece of cocker pneumatic hosing from the LPR nipple on the gun, to the LPR.
h) Now, you have your LPR and ready to rock. I personally suggest a guage on the back, but if you dont, then no need to worry. If you followed these steps right, then you have just successfully installed a cocker LPR onto your gun.
*USE BLUE LOCTITE TO SEAL THE THREADS*

Here's a parts list for the cocker LPR project:
-The LPR itself
-Impulse LPR nipple
-Possibly a front cap
-Cocker pneumatic hose
-Wrench set, possible a vice
-Blue loctite
All the parts can be purchased at any pro-shop and the loctite from any hardware store.

How do I install an Impulse LPR?
1) I will now tell you how to install an Impulse LPR kit which should be signifigantly easier.
a) Pick out your LPR choice.
b) The combo should come with a front cap and LPR nipple with the LPR already screwed and sealed on the front cap.
c) Unscrew stock front cap
d) Screw on LPR/Front cap combo
e) Look down the front of the barrel, on the left side there should either be a metal hex plug or a tapeworm, whichever it is, remove it. Screw LPR nipple on here.
f) Connect pneumatic hose from LPR to LPR nipple.
g) Youre all set. Youve just installed the LPR on your Impulse.
Here's a parts list:
-LPR Combo of your choice (NDZ or SP)
-Pneumatic Hosing
-Blue Loctite

So you just got your new LPR installed, now to set it up.
See the post above by Smallies on how to setup your LPR.

[msonic]

Copied from: http://www.sundragonpps.com/paintbal...p_cln_imp.html

Basic Field Stripping & Cleaning Your Impulse



In this article we will go over the process of field stripping and cleaning your Impulse. To ensure proper function you should clean and lube your Impulse after every day of play. If you do not oil and clean your marker on a regular basis, chances are it may cause some problems like premature o-ring wear, solenoid concerns, eye problems and in general functioning to less of it's normal performance capability. It is recommended by Smart Parts to use Dow33 only or you will void the factory warranty. I have been using 50W 100% silicone RC car shock lube on my Imp for the past couple of years and it works much better than Dow33 in my opinion. It's not so thick that it can cause FSDO(first shot drop off) and is silicone based the same as Dow33. This can be purchased at your local hobby shop that sells RC cars and trucks. It costs only a few dollars a bottle which is much less than the cost of Dow33 as well. I would not recommend using anything other than a silicone based oil to lubricate your Imp as this is an electro-pneumatic marker with an expensive solenoid that can cost you an excess of $80 to replace if you use the wrong product.

* Make sure your marker is ungassed before proceeding with this cleaning process.
* Remove the bolt pin and pull the bolt out through the back portion of the top tube.
* Using a 7/8" open end wrench remove the ram housing assembly from the bottom tube by turning it out counter clockwise. Be careful not to break the on/off button with the wrench when doing this. Once you break the torque you should be able to turn it by hand. When you get to a certain point you'll see that it doesn't appear to be moving the housing out any further. At this point pull the housing out with your hand. If it feels stuck you might just shimmy and pull it a little to work it the rest of the way out.
* If you have the stock valve in your Imp you'll want to remove the valve piston to clean and lube it. This can be accomplished by first removing the front cap turning it off counter clockwise. If it's difficult to turn you might try wrapping a rubber glove around it for a better grasp. Some front caps have a hole in the front so you can turn it out with a 3/16" allen wrench. Once the front cap is removed the valve spring will fall out. Now you can use a plastic or wooden object such as a pencil to push the valve piston out towards the front through the rear portion of the lower tube.
* You have now field stripped all of the basic components from your Imp to clean and lube.
* While placing the 7/8" open end wrench on the rear flats of the ram housing, use a 3/16" allen wrench and turn the rear cap off of the ram housing counter clockwise. Remove the o-ring from inside of the housing so you don't lose it.
* At this point a lambs wool material swab comes in handy. You can use paper toweling and run it through with a dowel rod or similar as well. I have a couple of lambs wool material swabs that I use for this step.
* Run the swab or paper toweling through the top and bottom tubes to get all existing oils and paint if you had an accident from them. You can use 2 swabs for this, the first to get all of the oil out and the second to polish any other light residue left. I have a delrin bolt so I swab and polish the top tube out with a dry swab first. I don't want any grease or oil in it because it's recommended not to use any lubricants at all with a delrin bolt as it can cause them to swell and lodge in the upper tube.
* Wipe all of the lubrication residue from the inside diameter of the valve body if you're using a stock valve. If you're using the New Designz RIP valve you can bypass the whole valve cleaning process because the valve piston is made of self lubricating delrin.
* Now you need to wipe any old lubrications from the parts that you removed. Just wipe them as dry as you can because it's fairly difficult to remove all residues when using silicone based lubricants.
* Push the ram and hammer forward in the ram housing assembly and twist a piece of paper toweling into the rear portion to get all of the old residues from the inside of the ram housing body.
* Time to relubricate all of the parts that you removed before reinstalling them. When using Dow33 I suggest using it sparingly because a little goes a long way. Using too much in the wrong places such as on the ram and hammer and inside the ram housing can cause FSDO.
* If you're using the stock aluminum bolt spread a modest layer of lube on the o-rings and the flat surfaces that will make contact with the upper tube inner diameter. As I stated earlier, if you're using a delrin bolt don't use any lubrication on the bolt at all.
* If using the stock valve, apply a small amount of lube on the o-ring area of the valve piston and reinstall it in the valve body through the front of the body. Put the spring back on the front portion of the valve piston and reinstall the front cap. Before installing the front cap put a little lube on the o-ring so when it will be less difficult to remove the next time you wish to remove it.
* NOTE: If you'd like to rid your Imp of that strange pinging noise caused by the valve spring while shooting, you can install a rubber washer that fits into the front cap where the spring rests and the pinging noise will subside.
* Now comes the fun part, lubricating the ram housing. First with the ram and hammer extended, lube the inside of the ram housing. When I still used Dow33 I first twisted a piece of paper toweling into it to make the shape of the inner ram housing. I then randomly applied the Dow33 on the formed paper toweling then reinserted it twisting it inside to spread it onto the inner walls. Since I now use the RC car shock lube I just put a few drops inside then work the ram and hammer assembly back and forth twisting it to spread it evenly across the inner surfaces. Return the back cap temporarily to proceed with the next step.
* There are (8) tiny air passage holes on the outside of the ram housing, (4) in the front and (4) in the back. With the ram and hammer pushed back in the housing, squeeze some lube in all of the holes. Now work the ram and hammer assembly back and forth turning it at the same time to spread it evenly on the inside of the ram housing. Some of it will be pushed back out of the holes. You can use this excess to lube the outer o-rings of the ram housing assembly.
* Remove the back cap now and remove any excess lubrication that may be left in the back of the ram. Excess lubrication inside can cause FSDO.
* Apply a little Lube to the o-ring that you removed from the rear of the housing earlier and put it back in place then lightly torque the back cap back on the housing with the 7/8" open end wrench and 3/16" allen wrench.
* Lubricate the outer (3) o-rings of the ram housing and you're done.
* If you'd like to you can extend the ram and hammer assembly and use any excess lube on your fingers to lube the ram. Put absolutely no lubrication on the hammer at all. Since it doesn't touch the lower tube walls, there's no need to. Applying too much lube to the outer portion of the ram and/or hammer can cause FSDO.
* Return the ram housing assembly into the back lower tube of the body. Once it gets to the o-rings you may have to shimmy it a bit before it'll go in. Once it's screwed back into place and stops turning, it only needs to be very lightly torqued back on.
* Insert the bolt back into the upper tube making sure that the large air passage hole is facing downward.
* Insert the bolt pin into the hole of the bolt making sure that it goes into the slot of the hammer. If you can freely move the bolt back and forth holding the pin with no resistance at all, it's not properly inserted into the hammer slot. If you shoot your Imp in this condition you can cause internal damage and greatly deform the stock hammer.

Consistently cleaning and maintaining your equipment on a regular schedule will make it as reliable as you would expect it to be. Abuse it and you can expect it to fail you at the most inopportune moment possible..............

[msonic]

Copied from: http://www.sundragonpps.com/paintbal...g_impulse.html

How Do I Tune My New Impulse?

Good question and it's much more simple than you might think. I'd say for a good percentage of new Impulse owners, this is their first exposure to an electro-pneumatic marker. The term 'electro-pneumatic' just sounds a bit intimidating but the Impulse is a very simple marker to tune, maintain and understand.

Tuning A Basic Impulse

Tuning a basic Impulse without an LPR is a very trivial process. You will of course need a chronograph handy to accomplish this. Before you gas it up you may consider turning the cap of the Max-Flo out about half way or more to be sure that when the pressure is released inside the internal air passage to the noid, it's around or below 100psi. This is just a precaution to assure that there is no possibility of shocking the solenoid with any excessive pressure at start up. Another thing to keep in mind is if a pressure of around 250psi were to reach the solenoid, you can just kiss the noid goodbye and start looking for $80 and a place to purchase a new one.

At this point make sure there are no paintballs in the breech or hopper. When you gas it up the bolt will automatically be pushed back by the pressure entering the solenoid. Push the small button at the back to turn the power on. If it's a Vision Impulse and you somehow hit the button twice, it will take only one shot and won't shoot any more. Don't be alarmed, you just turned the Vision on and if there is no ball chambered, it will not shoot more than once after initially being turned on. Push the button once more and it will shoot again.

Once it's aired up, turn the Max-Flo cap to the right(clockwise looking at the cap end) pulling the trigger at the same time until the gauge on the Max-Flo reads between 170-190psi. I suppose 180psi would be a good point to start at. Once it's at 180psi you can put a few balls in the hopper. If you have the New Designz RIP valve, you'll want to stay within the realm of 150-160psi since it is so high flowing.

Lay the barrel over the chronograph and take a few shots to see what the current velocity is at. If the velocity is too low or too high you'll need to adjust the dwell by pushing one of the dwell buttons located on the right side of your Impulse. The front button will increase the dwell and the back button will decrease the dwell. You cannot simply push the buttons with your finger because the button is actually inside the small hole in the center of the round plastic cover. You will need to use a paper clip, small allen wrench or a similar small object object to push the inner button. A very light push will do.

When you've hit the velocity you want by shooting it after pushing the dwell up or down, you're done tuning your Impulse. That wasn't so bad now was it?

Tuning A Basic Impulse With An LPR

This is a bit more involved than tuning an Impulse without an LPR but it is essentially a fairly simple process as well. You will need to start the tuning process very much similar to the aforementioned tuning process with a couple of slight differences.

Before gassing it up, unlock the LPR and turn the LPR cap all the way in to the right(CW). This will open the flow through the LPR completely to the solenoid. Making sure the Max-Flo cap is turned half way out or more, gas it up. Turn the power on by depressing the button at the back of the body. Making sure the Vision eye is off if you have a Vision Impulse, turn the pressure up slowly while shooting it until the pressure reaches 200psi this time and leave it there. This starting pressure will be lower if you have a New Designz RIP valve installed due to it's high flowing properties. I would suggest somewhere within 150-180psi for starters.

At this point put some paint in the hopper and shoot it over the chronograph to see what the velocity is at. Continuing to shoot it over the chronograph, keep increasing the dwell by pushing the front dwell button taking shots in between advancing the dwell. You'll see that once you hit a certain dwell setting, the velocity will not advance any more. When you hit this point, dwell down by depressing the back button until you see a decrease. The dwell is now set so leave it at this point.

All that's left to do now is turn the LPR cap to the left(CCW) until you've reached the velocity that you want. Once you reach the correct velocity, lock the LPR cap and you're done with the tuning process. Aiming for a velocity of 280 - 285fps with or without an LPR is a good velocity to stay at whether your local field allows a higher one or not.

There are other ways of tuning an Impulse with an LPR but this is the most simple and straightforward manner to do so in my opinion. That wasn't so difficult either was it?

[msonic]

Copied from: http://www.sundragonpps.com/paintball_chg_hmr_imp.html

This would seem to be a very simple task yet this is one of the most frequently asked technical questions about the Impulse believe it or not. I hear of people using vice grips, putting it in a vice, purchasing a $20 tool or substitute tools of a similar design and still can't remove the hammer. All you really need is a few tools, some Loctite and a few common household articles to remove it quick and easy:



* Remove the ram housing from the bottom tube of the body with a 7/8" open end wrench or adjustable wrench.
* Use the wrench and a 3/16" allen wrench to separate the back cap from the ram housing.
* Remove the o-ring just inside the back of the ram housing and put it in a safe place.
* Put just enough water in a small pan to cover the hammer when submerged and boil it on your stove. Don't put the hammer in the water while boiling it.
* Once it starts to boil, turn it off. Extend the ram and hammer assembly and submerge the hammer standing up in the boiled water as shown above for approximately 3-5 minutes. Be sure that the external plastic bumper is not in the hot water. This will easily heat the red Loctite enough to separate the hammer from the ram. You'll know the Loctite is melted enough by the distinctive smell it emits.
* Using a rubber glove or similar to grasp the hot hammer with, put the short end of a 1/8" allen wrench in the opposite end of the ram and turn them appart. If you have any difficulty at all, boil the water again and repeat the last step once more.
* Remove the ram from the housing. There will be an internal plastic bumper inside. Put the internal and external bumpers in a safe place so not to lose them.

NOTE: If this is an older Imp, you may consider putting all new o-rings in the ram and ram housing while you have everything appart. There is 1 at the back of the ram and 1 in the front end of the ram housing. They both have the same inner diameter but the one in the end of the ram housing has a slightly smaller outside diameter. If you're installing the New Designz Slik-Shot ram, both o-rings are the ones with the smaller outside diameter. If you have them handy, you may consider changing the bumpers as well if the parts are easily available for you.

* Clean and lubricate the inside of the ram housing.
* Lube the o-ring on the ram and reinstall it into the ram housing and don't forget the smaller of the 2 bumpers on the inside and the larger on the outside.
* Take a rag and some alcohol and clean the threads of the ram getting as much of the old Loctite off as possible. Use a Q-Tip dipped in alcohol and clean the inside threads of the hammer.
* You can use blue or red Loctite and put a drop or two on the threads of the ram then screw it tightly into the hammer. If you use blue and have properly cleaned the threads of both parts, it will hold well and be a little easier to separate next time you do this. Clean any excess Loctite that may be left on the ram and hammer.
* Wait 12 - 24 hours for the Loctite to cure completely before you lube everything up and put the assembly back into your Impulse. If you don't, chances are the hammer will start to turn its way off of the ram some time in the near future.

For further info on lubricating the ram housing assembly, you may consider looking through the Impulse cleaning and field stripping article in the SPPS tech section.

[msonic]

Just about every resource you need for your Classic Impulse can be located here:

http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/impulse/index.html

Cricket Board (2002 and later)

Green/amber board (2000-2001)

Impulse Maintenance Diagram

Impulse Troubleshooting Guide

WAS Equalizer Board

[msonic]

Here is another excellent resource site:

Impulse Owners Resource Center

Impulse Manuals

Impulse FAQ

Impulse Tech FAQ

Guides and Tutorials

Balancing Internal Weights

Replacement Screw Sizes

The Ultimate Private Label Impulse Guide