Mod Frame = You could mod your frame for light and short pull. there is a "How to" at this site http://www.ottersccustoms.com/
to mod your frame. IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO USE TOOLS DON'T DO IT
Also if you don't want to mod your own frame and send it out send it to this place. www.polecatpaintball.com
They do an excellent jobs on trigger mods
Kingman ESP = This is made of metal and the current one is the IPI 3.0. This board is capped at 13-14 bps. It has semi, 3-burst, and full auto, all of which can be changed between a slow and a fast speed.
Kingman CAMD = This is basiclly an ESP frame but with a different board. Capped at 20bps.
Kingman Rockin = This frame has a trigger that pivots in the middle and it has 2 contact points. Some say its worth it, other say its cheaper to get an ESP frame w/ tboard. Its up to you. I believe its cappd at 20bps.
T-Board = This is made by Scenerio Dreams. This is a nice board and great customer service. This board is capped at 36bps. I don't know anybody that could reach that rate of fire so 36 bps is good enough. You could set pretty much everything to make your E-Frame sweet. This also comes with break beam anti chop eyes. This is to stop the solenoid from being activated if the ball is not in the chamber. This I would suggest this over others now in the market til a better one comes out. You can now also get an upgrade chip and a ramping chip.
Before buying this board make sure it fits in your E-Frame. Kingman has changed a bit of it's latest E-Frames. Check with Damonwill from Pbnation if it fits your Spyder.
IS Board = This was produced by Nerobro and terminalerr from PBnation. It's currently out of production but might come out with it again in the future. This board was uncapped. So you could pull to your hearts content. This was better than the T-Board when it first came out but right now they're pretty much neck and neck cuz of of the T-Boards newer version. This also came with A.C.E system.
XSF = This Board is made by Xtreme Sports Fulfillment. This is the most expensive board out there. This comes with less settings compared to other 2 boards above. This comes with 3 settings which other 2 boards don't have such as semi, 3 ball burst and full auto. This too comes with A.C.E. system. But unlike other board, this comes with Eye covers. You don't even have to drill extra holes to mount this eye covers.
Check-it Sweet spot = This is a nice trigger by Check-it Products. They come out some innovations once in awhile. This trigger sorta solves the side to side slack problem that lot of people have with there stock E-Frames.
ACP Slasher = This is currently a favorite with the people on the forums. It's not on the main stream but still sells well. It's 3 point adjustable for your perfect feel to your fingers. It eliminates the side to side slack. I would recommend this over other aftermarket triggers out there.
ACP Thrasher = They just came out with this trigger. It's similar as the 3 point adjust and side to side elimination. Only difference is the looks. it's bit narrower than the Slasher. This is also nice to have.
Low Pressure Chambers
This is an unnecessary upgrade. The stock will pretty much do the job as the aftermarket ones. It's all about cosmetics. Only one IMO that actually has some effect on the efficiency of your marker is the one by shocktech. it's like 9-10 inches long with high volume where you could store air in. If you still want to get one, check out the list.
Bob Long, Shocktech, Benchmark, ACI, NDZ, AKA Maxflow, etc.
Well type of gas you use does matter. For instance, Co2's are sensitive to the temperature outside of the tank. This is the reason why most of the paid fields you go have checks for FPS of you marker throughout the day. As for N2/CA are used by pros and more vetern ballers out there. Since N2/CA aren't effected by the weather or time of day. Because of these reasons, Co2's are more unstable compared to N2/CA. If you have the money go get a Nitro tank but if you are on a budget get a Co2 tank but get a "anti-siphon tube" so no liquid gets into your marker. Liquid is the enemy.
There's too name companies so I'll just name them since most of the work pretty much all the same IMO.
Crossfire, PMI, ACI, Center Flag, System X, Air America, etc.
*Note* if you want more opinions which tanks is better over the other. Go to your local store and ask them.
There's kits out there to change the operation of your spyder. There's kits that change your marker to closed bolt system to pnuematic operated. If you have the money and time or bored go for it. Let's check out what kind of kits are there on the market.
The One Kit = This is now stopped in production. this was produced by TES Dragun. This was to replace your E-Frame and use pnuematic to cock your marker. Even though it was for the Dragun you could install it on a spyder. This was a nice kit to have. It was popular so I don't know why they stop making it. maybe they'll come out with an improved version or something in the future.
Zip Kit = This basiclly does the same as The One Kit. Some people like it, some don't. According from what I have heard, this is t-board compatible.
Spyder/Timmy Converstion = This isn't a Kit per say. you'll have to get all the parts yourself. this makes your spyder into a timmy. You'll have to get pretty much all the parts of the timmy and put it together. It's not cheap so if you have the money go for it. And you could try to piss off those timmy owners by saying that you have a spyder timmy hehehe
Here's the link how to do it http://www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=454186
Spyder/Cocker Converstion = This isn't a kit either. This will turn your spyder into a cocker. Most will say just buy a cocker, not only because of price, but alot of exact work needs to be done.
Spyder/Mag Converstion = This is basiclly putting a spyder frame on a mag. It isn't done much. This really doesn't have much to do with a spyder at all.