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Old 04-17-2005, 11:18 PM #1
pntbllrsprky
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Upgrade Guide

This is a great guide I read on paintball forum. This is not my creation but it is very good and I will update and fix what I can. Some of the numbers seem a little off and need fixing

Credit goes to Spec74 at www.paintball-forum.com

I will edit in to add bold and color to make it easier to find certain topics

I know we have a sticky but its cluttering and kind of biased in my opion. This doesn't tell you what you should buy, just the best depending on budget.

This guide could help with other markers also.

People who have helped with this guide (besides Spec74 and me)
1. mak0
2. Kif

Last edited by pntbllrsprky : 04-18-2005 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 04-17-2005, 11:20 PM #2
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Spyder markers
If you're wonder what spyder is better over another. Stop now and get any one of them since they're all basically work the same (except the AMG and the EM1). EM1 was the first attempt by kingman to come out with high end marker and it failed pretty badly. Well basically all the rest work the same. All the mechs and E-frame spyders are the same. Only thing you're looking for is the accessories that comes with the marker and the milling. You're actually playing extra for the mill if it really comes down to it.

Paint and Barrel Match
This is the most part of shooting your marker straight, accurately, and how far the ball will travel. If your ball is too small in the barrel. The ball will mostly likely not travel as far and swerve off to one side. And of course if the ball is too big it'll loose velocity or not fit your barrel at all and break in your barrel. So before buying your paintballs check if your barrel and the paints fit well. Here's a simple test if it's the right size for your barrel. Take one ball and put into your barrel. If it's snug in the barrel and able to blow it out (put it to your mouth) and comes out. It's a good match.

Paint
This is one of your most expensive purchases when you play. Since you can't play without balls you're going to keep spending and spending through all your paintballing life. Trying buying some of the major brands. You can't go wrong with them. They also sell 2nd's. They're pretty much the rejects of manufacturing paintballs so they're like lop sided and so forth. Use 2nd's as your last resort IMO


Aftermarket Bodies
There's few out there that make your markers eye candy to everybody all around you. But there's not much of a selection compared to other markers. Let's go through the ones that are easy to access.

Bob Long Millenium = This body is most common body out there. It's pretty basic but it has nice options that people are looking for. It has Angel thread feed. It comes with side, top and back cocking ability. It takes fatty strikers. It comes with nothing other than the feed.

Fireball Mountain = This is a nice body. It's fairly cheap I guess if you're looking for an aftermarket body. It has 3 different body types you could choose from. I've been told there's not much quality control.

SBM = This is a body by suprbugman. He made one batch for $275 for each body. This body was immulating the all time great VLM bodies by AKA. There's only couple out there. This was in my opinion nicest aftermarket bodies out there but it was too expensive. He might go through another run if he could get enough people and he have more free time in the futre.

VLM = This body is discontinued. This was introduced by AKA. This was to make spyders high flowing marker. This is all time the best and expensive body you could get. If you could find one or have one you're one of the lucky ones. This body had enough meat so you could mill and have nice interior that made your marker like one of the high end markers out there.

*Note* Kingman doesn't sell just bodies

Barrels
If you not already know the stock barrels pretty much SUCK. That is why if you check out your local stores and online there's tons of companies that make barrels for all types of markers and angels are no exception. Let me go through few barrels that's on the market now.

Oh yeah. This is one of your most important upgrades so I would suggest you have "what barrel to get" on top of your what to get list.

reasons for kits is that not all balls come out all the same in the batches when they produce them. That is why barrel kits are important.

Barrel Kits
Freak kit = they're made by SP(smart parts). They make two different versions. 1. Full Set - that comes with 8 different bore adapters. 2. Economic set - that comes with 4 different bore adapter. If you decide to get this Kit try getting the stainless steel inserts. The aluminum inserts has some wear issues.

Ti kit = they're made of titanium. It's not cheap mainly cause of the material they used to make this barrel kit. Unlike the freak kit these comes with barrels itself with different bores. They claim it's has the smoothest inner surface. I have never used this barrel so check it out at your local stores.

CP kit = they're made by Custom Products. They're very good company for producing cheap barrels that work very well. If you're on a budget and want a kit this is the road to take. Like the Ti barrel kit. They come with different bored barrels. It's cheaper than the Ti barrel kit and they work well.

Single Barrels
AA = All American barrels are good barrels. It's not cheap just let you know. It's efficent barrels. I've used it couple of time and I was satisfied with it. Only problem I had was the price.

DYE = This is one of the most popular barrels out there. They make barrels such as the UltraLite and the Boom Stick barrels which is there most popular sellers. I have to say I love both the UltraLite and the Boom Stick but they're too much which i'm not willing to spend. If you have the money go for it. You won't regret it.

J&J ceramic = they're made by J&J percision. These are good barrels. These are made of ceramic if you haven't already noticed by there name. This is also one of the popular barrels out there. Only issue with this barrel is they have bore issue. Not all the batches that they make comes out exactly what the bores size it printed on it. So I would suggest checking the bore itself before buying. It will make a difference if you use your favorite paint and don't fit right.

*Note* There's too many barrel companies out there to talk about so I'll just list a few others out there and you can check them out yourself. There are companies that produce barrels like... LAPCO, Empire, PMI, TASO, Armson, etc.

Last edited by pntbllrsprky : 04-17-2005 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 04-17-2005, 11:23 PM #3
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Hoppers/Loaders
Hoppers pretty much aggitates the balls so it'll go into your marker faster so in lameness term "it feeds balls faster" So let me tell you some of the Hoppers out there.

Regular Hoppers = They're gravity fed hoppers. They're nothing but a big container where they hold your balls with no electronics inside to help feed the balls to your marker.
6bps

Revolution = They're also called Revi's. These are pretty decent hoppers. They come in 2 versions. 9 volt and 12 volt. If you already haven't guessed the more power you have the faster the ball is aggitated. I would suggest getting the 12 volt version. They also have a upgrade of the electronics. It's called the X-Board. It pretty much makes the agitator spin faster so it feeds the balls faster.
9volt=8pbs 12volt=11bps

Empire 2 = This hopper is very similar to the Revi. They have a better construction and feed bit faster than the Revi even with the X-Board. I would choose to get this one if you're on a budget over the Revi.
10-12bps

Empire B = empire has this version which is bit more expensive and of couse better performace. This is hopper is considered to be in the top end of the hoppers out there. It has high rate agitator to feed the balls faster
22+bps

Evlution 2 = These are one of the top hoppers out there. These are shaped like an egg. So people usually call them Eggies. They feed pretty fast that it'll keep up with your pace but not always if you could out shoot the speed of the hopper. This hopper also have upgrade board. It's called the Y-Board and the Z-Board.
17bps 23bps w/ z-board

Ricochet = This is one of the very high rated hoppers out there. It'll be able to keep up with pretty much any fast fingers out there. Consider this hopper as one of your choices when you want to get a hopper. They have few different versions of this. The one with the LCD has a counter, timer and ball counter. I think this version is a waste so I would say keep with away from gagets and keep it simple.
14bps

Halo = There are 2 versions Halo A and the Halo B. The second version pretty much blows the previous version out of the water. If you have the money this is it. The top of the line hopper around. It'll be able to keep up with pretty much anybody out there that could walk a trigger like a madman.
HaloA=18+bps HaloB=22+bps

Q-Loader = This is an interesting hopper. Unlike other hoppers on the market, this holds balls in a big Pod shape container. This hopper is like a tube like the ones you carry in your pod holder around your waist. It can be mounted pretty much anywhere like side, under the barrel and where ever else you feel comfortable. It doesn't feed the balls by electronics but springs. If you ever played around with a wind up toys, pretty much that's how it works. You wind up the spring inside the pod and it's self powered after that.
30+bps

Warp Feed = this isn't a hopper. This is an addition to your hopper that you already have. This is connected between your hopper and the feed where the balls goes into by a tube. It basically "force" feeds your marker. This is the fastest feeder on the market but since it's the best it's not cheap. This is also to keep your marker low profile. You mount this on the side of your marker. Lot of people have issue this since it makes your marker more bulky looking. It's all about comfort.
20+bps

Valves
This part helps give higher flow to your marker. Since higher the flow of air, smoother operation of your marker. There's quite a few out there. Let's go throught few of them for you.

AKA tornado valve = They're made by AKA. This is the best and highest flow valve on the market. And it's the most expensive valve. I would suggest this if you have money to splurge. AKA stands for quality.

Maddman Rocket Valves = This is by far one of the best for the value and performance. This is valve is made to work on "low pressure" operation. So I suggest getting a regulator before you buy this valve since it requires the marker at 600 psi or lower. If you don't you could damage the valve.

*Note*There is a repair kit that you could buy for rocket valve

NDZ = This is a good company that comes out with quality products. They have a high flowing valve with nice pin to boot. This is little bit cheaper than the maddman Rocket Valve and I believe it does the same job.

There's also other valves out there but they don't perform any close to these 3 at the top.

*Note*Lot of people seem to have leak problem with there valves. So try using the lapco cup seal. it's a cheap upgrade but it usually solves leak problems. Stock cup seals seem to get damaged if you tamper around with it. You can't see the damage until you really inspect it really really close.

Striker/Hammer
There's just few out there. This part is basically just to hit the pin with less mass. In doing so less kick everytime you pull and you get better accuracy.

DHC = This striker is made of Titanium. This is 1/3 less than your stock striker. There is a new version to improve on the wear issue.

Night Stalker = This is a new striker introduced by Insane Pain sports. There are 2 versions regular and XL version. XL is 11 grams lighter than the regular. This his made out of titanium at all metel to metal contacts and the rest is made of Nylatron. Then coated in brine for wear issue.(I would recommend this over the DHC).

ACP = They're made of aluminum/zinc composite where the striker hits the pin and the rest is made of nylon. This came out while ago but had some wear issue. They're at retesting mode. This would be the best striker out there since it's 2/3 less than your stock strikers. But who knows when this will be re-released.

Mod Striker = This mod is tricky since you need you're trying to grind away tempered steel. You're going to need a diamond wheel cutter if you're using hand tool or a table gringer. If you don't have a steady hands you're pretty much asking for a trip to the emergency room... So think before you really want to try this mod. here's a link how it should look like. Scroll down http://www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=608457

Regulator
This section is under construction.

Last edited by pntbllrsprky : 04-18-2005 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 04-17-2005, 11:26 PM #4
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Expansion Chamber
Lots of people will tell you to not to get a X-chamber. It's not useless as people say as it is. The function of an expansion chamber is to allow the CO2 gas to expand from liquid to gas before being discharged out of the marker. Well because an expansion chamber is nothing but a tube with multi-chambers it won't keep the air consistant when air is discharged out. That's the difference between a regulator and a X-chamber. There's many staged X-chambers out there. Stages basically means how many chambers there are for the gas to expand. All Expansion Chambers basiclly work the same so find one you like.

Vertical Adapter
CIP Assault block = This is currently top seller for this upgrade. This has 15* angled for comfort and looks. It's all about comfort so if you don't like your gas thru or reg being in a 15* angle don't get it.

CIP Trinity Block = This has a negative 10* angle and is more ergonomic than the CIP AB but I found it has a flow issue since the holes are roughly half the size of the assault block's. I modded mine for super-high flow

Mod Stock VA = You could also mod your stock valve for better air flow. If you don't know what you're doing DON'T DO IT!!! this mod is bit harder then other mods. Since your have to drill a bigger hole close to the threads inside you could screw it up easily. So if you want to know how to do it go this this link. www.ottersccustoms.com

Bolt
AKA Lightning Bolt =

ACP Blue bolt = This is a new product that ACP just came out with. It's made of nylatron. It has been through some test and it doesn't swell even when the bolt is submerged in water for 2 days. (that's a good thing).

Bandit Bolt = These bolts are made by Bandit. These bolts are made of nylon compound. So you don't need to oil these since it's self lubricating. It's farely cheap and no more O-ring issue

Kingman ACS = this is new bolt by Kingman product. The just introduced it with there new product line just recently. This bolt is to stop balls from chopping when the balls don't go all the way down into the chamber. If you want a system to stop chops this is one path to go.

Jam Bolt = This bolt is a Anti-chop system bolt. it works fairly well. It works pretty much like the Kingman ACS but Jam bolt came out with there bolt first. Let them settle it in court or whatever. But anyways, This is a nice bolt to get if you don't want to spend for Eframe with ACE system.

Home MOD bolt = This is the cheapest way to get a high flow bolt. You'll have to take out the venturi out ( the star looking thing inside the bolt) then polish it. If you want to see the steps "how to" go to this link www.ottersccustoms.com

*Note*There's more and more different bolts coming out every so often so keep your eyes out.

Feed Neck
Check-it Products = They're the first ones that came out with the clamp feeds.

Lapco = They make 2 versions that slips on and one that you replace. Choose the one you like

NDZ = They have a intimidator thread feeds. So you could use feed necks for the intimidator's. People like this one cause you get really no-rise. Meaning you have your hopper sitting top of your marker. hence lower profile.

*Note*There's more out there so choose the ones you like. They're basically good enough. Like I said before when you get a feed look for a clamp feeds over slide on's.

Last edited by pntbllrsprky : 04-19-2005 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 04-17-2005, 11:27 PM #5
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Trigger Frame
Mech Frames
Mod Frame = You could mod your frame for light and short pull. there is a "How to" at this site http://www.ottersccustoms.com/ to mod your frame. IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO USE TOOLS DON'T DO IT

*Note*Also if you don't want to mod your own frame and send it out send it to this place. www.polecatpaintball.com They do an excellent jobs on trigger mods

Electronic Frames
Kingman ESP = This is made of metal and the current one is the IPI 3.0. This board is capped at 13-14 bps. It has semi, 3-burst, and full auto, all of which can be changed between a slow and a fast speed.

Kingman CAMD = This is basiclly an ESP frame but with a different board. Capped at 20bps.

Kingman Rockin = This frame has a trigger that pivots in the middle and it has 2 contact points. Some say its worth it, other say its cheaper to get an ESP frame w/ tboard. Its up to you. I believe its cappd at 20bps.

E-Frame upgrades
T-Board = This is made by Scenerio Dreams. This is a nice board and great customer service. This board is capped at 36bps. I don't know anybody that could reach that rate of fire so 36 bps is good enough. You could set pretty much everything to make your E-Frame sweet. This also comes with break beam anti chop eyes. This is to stop the solenoid from being activated if the ball is not in the chamber. This I would suggest this over others now in the market til a better one comes out. You can now also get an upgrade chip and a ramping chip.

*NOTE*Before buying this board make sure it fits in your E-Frame. Kingman has changed a bit of it's latest E-Frames. Check with Damonwill from Pbnation if it fits your Spyder.

IS Board = This was produced by Nerobro and terminalerr from PBnation. It's currently out of production but might come out with it again in the future. This board was uncapped. So you could pull to your hearts content. This was better than the T-Board when it first came out but right now they're pretty much neck and neck cuz of of the T-Boards newer version. This also came with A.C.E system.

XSF = This Board is made by Xtreme Sports Fulfillment. This is the most expensive board out there. This comes with less settings compared to other 2 boards above. This comes with 3 settings which other 2 boards don't have such as semi, 3 ball burst and full auto. This too comes with A.C.E. system. But unlike other board, this comes with Eye covers. You don't even have to drill extra holes to mount this eye covers.

Triggers
Check-it Sweet spot = This is a nice trigger by Check-it Products. They come out some innovations once in awhile. This trigger sorta solves the side to side slack problem that lot of people have with there stock E-Frames.

ACP Slasher = This is currently a favorite with the people on the forums. It's not on the main stream but still sells well. It's 3 point adjustable for your perfect feel to your fingers. It eliminates the side to side slack. I would recommend this over other aftermarket triggers out there.

ACP Thrasher = They just came out with this trigger. It's similar as the 3 point adjust and side to side elimination. Only difference is the looks. it's bit narrower than the Slasher. This is also nice to have.

Low Pressure Chambers
This is an unnecessary upgrade. The stock will pretty much do the job as the aftermarket ones. It's all about cosmetics. Only one IMO that actually has some effect on the efficiency of your marker is the one by shocktech. it's like 9-10 inches long with high volume where you could store air in. If you still want to get one, check out the list.

Bob Long, Shocktech, Benchmark, ACI, NDZ, AKA Maxflow, etc.


Tanks
Well type of gas you use does matter. For instance, Co2's are sensitive to the temperature outside of the tank. This is the reason why most of the paid fields you go have checks for FPS of you marker throughout the day. As for N2/CA are used by pros and more vetern ballers out there. Since N2/CA aren't effected by the weather or time of day. Because of these reasons, Co2's are more unstable compared to N2/CA. If you have the money go get a Nitro tank but if you are on a budget get a Co2 tank but get a "anti-siphon tube" so no liquid gets into your marker. Liquid is the enemy.
There's too name companies so I'll just name them since most of the work pretty much all the same IMO.

Crossfire, PMI, ACI, Center Flag, System X, Air America, etc.

*Note* if you want more opinions which tanks is better over the other. Go to your local store and ask them.

Kits
There's kits out there to change the operation of your spyder. There's kits that change your marker to closed bolt system to pnuematic operated. If you have the money and time or bored go for it. Let's check out what kind of kits are there on the market.

The One Kit = This is now stopped in production. this was produced by TES Dragun. This was to replace your E-Frame and use pnuematic to cock your marker. Even though it was for the Dragun you could install it on a spyder. This was a nice kit to have. It was popular so I don't know why they stop making it. maybe they'll come out with an improved version or something in the future.

Zip Kit = This basiclly does the same as The One Kit. Some people like it, some don't. According from what I have heard, this is t-board compatible.

Spyder/Timmy Converstion = This isn't a Kit per say. you'll have to get all the parts yourself. this makes your spyder into a timmy. You'll have to get pretty much all the parts of the timmy and put it together. It's not cheap so if you have the money go for it. And you could try to piss off those timmy owners by saying that you have a spyder timmy hehehe
Here's the link how to do it http://www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=454186

Spyder/Cocker Converstion = This isn't a kit either. This will turn your spyder into a cocker. Most will say just buy a cocker, not only because of price, but alot of exact work needs to be done.

Spyder/Mag Converstion = This is basiclly putting a spyder frame on a mag. It isn't done much. This really doesn't have much to do with a spyder at all.

Last edited by pntbllrsprky : 04-19-2005 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 04-17-2005, 11:35 PM #6
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this post is just an extra one incase I need it, if not I will delete it

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Old 04-17-2005, 11:39 PM #7
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Old 04-17-2005, 11:56 PM #8
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sorry to bother but since I am editing, I need to add a page or two. So I need some deleted posts again
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:09 PM #9
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Put the Powerlyte Scepter barrel kit under barrels, list it first. It out performs all the others listed.
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:54 PM #10
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:56 PM #11
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Sticky?
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:03 PM #12
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its an old guide. It needs alot of work

And I will now put it last because you said its the best. This is non Biased
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:18 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by pntbllrsprky
its an old guide. It needs alot of work

And I will now put it last because you said its the best. This is non Biased
It's not really that biased. It is considered by many reputable paintball publications to be the best barrel kit on the market. THe way it locks in to place was new; it ensures the proper lining up of the parts.
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:37 PM #14
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no I am commenting on airblaster saying what kit to put first because its the "best"

I think every part depends on what your situation is.
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:46 PM #15
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im upping this because dre told me too
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:49 PM #16
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can i help?
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:50 PM #17
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sure. get on aim if you can
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:51 PM #18
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work bro.. been busting my izzzarse
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Old 04-19-2005, 05:11 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by pntbllrsprky
*Note* Kingman doesn't sell just bodies

Barrels
If you not already know the stock barrels pretty much SUCK. That is why if you check out your local stores and online there's tons of companies that make barrels for all types of markers and angels are no exception. Let me go through few barrels that's on the market now.

Oh yeah. This is one of your most important upgrades so I would suggest you have "what barrel to get" on top of your what to get list.

reasons for kits is that not all balls come out all the same in the batches when they produce them. That is why barrel kits are important.

Barrel Kits
Freak kit = they're made by SP(smart parts). They make two different versions. 1. Full Set - that comes with 8 different bore adapters. 2. Economic set - that comes with 4 different bore adapter. If you decide to get this Kit try getting the stainless steel inserts. The aluminum inserts has some wear issues.

Ti kit = they're made of titanium. It's not cheap mainly cause of the material they used to make this barrel kit. Unlike the freak kit these comes with barrels itself with different bores. They claim it's has the smoothest inner surface. I have never used this barrel so check it out at your local stores.

CP kit = they're made by Custom Products. They're very good company for producing cheap barrels that work very well. If you're on a budget and want a kit this is the road to take. Like the Ti barrel kit. They come with different bored barrels. It's cheaper than the Ti barrel kit and they work well.
kingman will sell bodies, but they do not advirtise it and at the prices they sell them for you would save money by purchasing a victor 2 and selling any unneeded parts.

the edge kit performs equally, if not better than the freak kit and is half the price.

and i dont think that we need a 3rd sticky about upgrades.
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Old 04-19-2005, 05:17 PM #20
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They make good triggers, add them to the list.

Also - it's Night Striker, not Night Stalker
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Old 04-19-2005, 05:35 PM #21
pntbllrsprky
I R Baboon
 
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curt: Its non biased. if it is, I'll edit.

spyder: I am adding the big ones you hear alot about.

curt again: get over it
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