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Old 05-10-2002, 11:11 AM #22
Apoc112
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if u get the roller sear working, do you think you could post a little more extensively about it? i think that would be really cool to make - but i'm not any kind of inventional genious... so i just dont know what kinda supplies and such i would need. or you could just PM me or hit me on AOL with it and i will keep it a secret... like an "Apoc only" sear mod haha
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so tell me again, what's so bad about necrobeastiality?
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Old 05-10-2002, 11:37 AM #23
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The spyder sear setup is damned near ideal. there's 3 moving parts and 3 springs invovled. Have you looked inside other gripframes? Well the non spyder clones at least. There are some pretty trashy setups out there, and I'm yet to see one as elegant as the one most commonly in use. AKA what we have in spyders, what you see in draguns, in boss's, pirhanahs, etc.

With a little polishing, you can get the trigger super smooth, you can get the trigger light, and do just about whatever you want short of feel like a mag ;-) (mags have that unique air driven trigger spring... AKA the on/off)

now there's a thought... settting up a spyder valve so you can use supremely light hammer springs... that'll slow down the max rof, but you could make a very light trigger that way.
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Old 05-10-2002, 12:15 PM #24
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ever since i ran my gun with an extra light mainspring i havent noticed it cycling any slower really. and even if it drops to 20 cps you will probably be shooting no more than 10 on a mechanical trigger. also the light spring stops chopping(which is the main reason why i did this in the first place.
heres a idea that i read about somewhere. a guy took a 3-way (one of the super short ones) and mounted a ram under the sear mechanism in a spyder(to replace the trigger). the trigger was linked to the 3 way and he said it worked pretty good. the pull after adjusted was only 1mm and he said it was just shy of feeling like an electro for stiffness. this may be a pretty interseting thing to look at but it will slighly reduce efficiency.
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Old 05-10-2002, 02:36 PM #25
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Woah now!

I have heard of stoppers, and lightening the spring for trigger-jobs. But what is this about "sandng down the sear". I know what the "sear" is, but how do we do all this? Anyone got a site with pictures and instructions on how to "sand down the sear"?
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Old 05-10-2002, 04:23 PM #26
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yeah i kno. i dont really knowo what part to sand and why. but if itll get my trigger pull to 1 to 1.5mm like spudmajics.....id be happy.

does anyone have any pics of their sears?
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Old 05-10-2002, 09:22 PM #27
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eww right now mine is 5mm with slack i want to try to take out the slack but i need to sand down part of the sear so the trigger will rest quicker but w/o slack mine is 2.5 rite now
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Old 05-11-2002, 06:23 AM #28
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WOAH!

Dudes, maybe I'm missing something. But 5mm is like 1/4 of an inch. I have a Spyder Compact 2in1 and if I'm mesuring correctly, with slak I have a 18mm pull. That's mesuering how far the bottom of the trigger can move.


Crap man! I would be happy with a 10mm pull! Not to mention a 1.5mm pull!!!

Added later by Zephyr28:

Hehe, oops. I was mesuring with a double trigger....
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Old 05-11-2002, 11:33 AM #29
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can anyone tell me where i should sand my sear??
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Old 05-11-2002, 03:37 PM #30
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i think if you want to get yours like spud majic's you have to sand the top part where if you take off all the internals to your gun stiker, bolt etc you see the metal part sticking out. I think your suppose to sand that part to the shape of the striker
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Old 05-11-2002, 03:37 PM #31
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i think if you want to get yours like spud majic's you have to sand the top part where if you take off all the internals to your gun stiker, bolt etc you see the metal part sticking out. I think your suppose to sand that part to the shape of the striker
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Old 05-11-2002, 05:15 PM #32
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Re: WOAH!

Quote:
Originally posted by zephyr28
Dudes, maybe I'm missing something. But 5mm is like 1/4 of an inch. I have a Spyder Compact 2in1 and if I'm mesuring correctly, with slak I have a 18mm pull. That's mesuering how far the bottom of the trigger can move.


Crap man! I would be happy with a 10mm pull! Not to mention a 1.5mm pull!!!

Added later by Zephyr28:

Hehe, oops. I was mesuring with a double trigger....
if you measured from the bottom of the trigger, you are doing what we have done... its not hard to knock off 10-15 mm from your stock pull if its that long. all you need to do for a REALLY quick trigger job is take the frame off, tape something small to the gun frame JUST in front of the blowback hole (such as another piece of tape folded up or idealy a metal piece of some sort) and then put a 3/8" to 1/4" piece of metal tubing inside the trigger spring. guaranteed to work... as long as you maintain it a little (that taped thing tends to slide around after too long).
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Old 05-11-2002, 06:57 PM #33
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My shutter pull is pretty long, maybe 8mm, but it rips alright, and I can get 7BPS consistently. My Rebel that is under construction has a sweet pull. It is shorter but they rip about the same, so really it doesn't matter it seems unless you can get it under 3mm, which I can't seem to get without sputtering
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Old 05-11-2002, 08:05 PM #34
Apoc112
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it takes a lot more work than i was interested in putting myself through to get a REALLY nice one. trust me, Polecat's trigger job is worth so much more than the 20 i paid for it.
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Old 05-11-2002, 09:03 PM #35
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how short is it again 2mm? i can get mine down to 2.5
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Old 05-11-2002, 09:27 PM #36
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its 1.940 mm measured on our laser rule in the physics lab
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Old 05-11-2002, 09:57 PM #37
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still kinda confused... so after sanding, should the very tip-top of the sear be at a 90 angle?
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Old 05-12-2002, 03:33 PM #38
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Back to top so people can ANSWER MY QUESTION!

Luke
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Old 05-12-2002, 04:52 PM #39
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To those that are interested in sanding their sear down to make their trigger pulls shorter, that's a good idea, but I wouldn't do it. Why? Because it is really not that easily reversable. Polishing the sear (sanding it down smooth and polishing) isn't bad, but sanding it down to get it lower... Instead, I would recommend getting a piece of microline and putting it around the pin that the end of the sear rests on (lowest pin you can knock out on the frame). This will do the same thing (lower the sear) w/o the possibility of sanding too far and messing up the gun (will burp every time you shoot). The microline thing is very easily adjustable and reversable. To lower the sear more, take some packaging tape and wrap it around the microline. To raise it, take off some tape.

And Apoc_101, could you explain to me what this roller sear thing is?
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Old 05-12-2002, 05:25 PM #40
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:D

Xyxyll, you are brilliant. This now make sence! One problem though. If I'm correct this will increase the amount of foreward slack, therefore you can take off more overall slack, therefor a shorter trigger pull! Now this is all great and swell, except, my saftey gets in the way, so with a foreward slack reducer, I wont beable to use my saftey. I don't think my local field will be happy

Any fixes for the saftey??
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Old 05-12-2002, 06:35 PM #41
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you have to file the saftey finger down so that it is set in the correct spot. you can do the micro line method but it still has a flat surface on the top of the sear. the curved surface will allow for more area to touch and not have to have the sear stick up so far(which shortens the pull) this is one of the keys to not having the sear round off with very short pulls.
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Old 05-12-2002, 07:48 PM #42
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how good of a job does polecat do, and whats the end result.... anyway i cant get a hold of ferret... wonder why
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