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Old 03-10-2005, 11:30 AM #1
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Tutorial/Ram disassembly and set up tips

It's easy to do, yet caution should be applied.

Tools required, including some material used to grip plyers to ram rod, I used a strip of lead.


Make sure your Dits's degassed, and remove bolt pryor to unscrewing off the ram house. Then remove ram, and it's assembly. Keep track of parts.

Loosen stricker retaining screw. Do not remove it all the way, it's presence has a purpose

Complete disassembly of ram kit


Little loctite

Done! notice the space allowed by my ram bumper mod, it's 3mm extension allow's for the bolt to help with BIP(ball in place), and avoids the use of a washer/spacer system. I list the bumper mod as on option but am not apposed to the washer's at all. The proper alterations to ram/bolt assembly would only allow for a 1 and 1/2mm extension on the ram, and 1 and 1/2mm longer on the bolt. Not having the necessary materials makes it difficult for me to prove this method, but I beleive it to be well intended.
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Old 03-10-2005, 12:07 PM #2
Headhunter1
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Splattttttt, could you post a pick showing how far the bolt sets into the feed neck because i just bought my Dits 3 weeks ago and it has 2 very thin teflon washers on it and it just comes flush with the feedtube a pic would be great so i can have a visual of where the BIP should be.....thanks
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Last edited by Headhunter1 : 03-10-2005 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 03-10-2005, 12:12 PM #3
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Nice work. Good clear pics.
Any chance you'll be doing a complete marker dis-assembly photo shoot in the future?
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Old 03-10-2005, 11:32 PM #4
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Why?
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Old 03-11-2005, 12:07 AM #5
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i imagine it is just so he can see what else is in the gun
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Old 03-11-2005, 08:09 AM #6
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No, it's not so i can see what else is in the gun, I have one of mine own, I know what is in the gun I just wanted to see where BIP should be so i know if mine is correct I have been having issues with chop and though that a pic would give me visual of where it actually should be
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Old 03-11-2005, 08:57 AM #7
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I'm not sure if I could get a good picture of how far the bolt sticks out past the feed tube. It's a very short amount, I mentioned above it's near 1 and 1/2 mm at the most.
I've found that extension to work best with getting the best bip. This was the best I could do.

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Last edited by splattttttt : 03-11-2005 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 03-11-2005, 02:04 PM #8
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thanks splattttttt thats helps alot, mine doesnt stick that far into the neck and i think that the balls are rolling back past the eyes, not to mention the new reloader b puts alot of pressure on the ball stack and this also aids in pushing the balls to the back of the breach......i appreciate your help
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Old 03-11-2005, 02:08 PM #9
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i forgot to ask do you have any problems with bounce using this mod of yours?
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:07 PM #10
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The only time I experianced any bounce what so ever, was when I had the board set to stock, and the trigger st to the least amount of movement I could achieve.
Look at my data for my inputs. No mow bounce.
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Old 03-11-2005, 10:53 PM #11
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Awsome splattt! Thanks for all the pics and info
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Old 03-13-2005, 04:14 PM #12
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yes winterGs splattttt has been a huge help! thanks
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Old 03-14-2005, 12:55 PM #13
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If the bolt sticks out to far into the breach then it will chop paint like a blender right? This is what was causing some of my issue's in the earlier stages of my betsy's life. I will get her good to go again once I cut down that bumper some. She will be ready. I will do that today!!!
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Old 03-14-2005, 04:53 PM #14
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It only needs to be showing the thickness of a dime or less, not more.
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Old 05-14-2005, 06:10 PM #15
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how firmly should you have to be gripping the ram shaft so it will loosen. i have the retaining screw loosened, but the end won't twist off. I don't want to damage the shaft by pinching too tightly, even though i have a pad in between the pliars and the shaft.
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Old 05-14-2005, 06:37 PM #16
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Since AM got wind of the striker loosening with their first shipments, the started adding lock thread, as I do. You will have to use the necessary force whilst not damaging the surfuces on the ram with a trip of led or rubber gripped with plyers.
NOTE: AM did mention a special tool never said if we could have one. Frankly speaking, I don't need a special tool, just be carefull, but don't be discouraged and do the mods. AM did infact applaude them.
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Last edited by splattttttt : 07-06-2005 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:55 AM #17
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How do I get the ram apart so that I can change the spring? I can't seem to get this thing apart...
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Old 07-29-2005, 05:39 AM #18
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What exactly is giving you trouble?
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Old 07-31-2005, 04:53 PM #19
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Getting the spring out of the ram.. having trouble turning the end piece off to open the ram up.
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Old 07-31-2005, 07:36 PM #20
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Could I pay you to do this mod for me.... and tune up my diadem so it will be its fastest.
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:09 AM #21
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The end piece you are referring to is the hammer. This part, as well as the ram should never be handled by any hard or fough surfaces, like plyers and or vicegrip like tools.
I added in the picture above, a list of tools, among them is a little stip of led aquired from a hardware store. Led is very soft, use it around the ram, than grip plyers around it, that way you will not harm the ram it self.
Tha hammer may have been lock tighted. Once the allen screw has been loosend up, leave the Allen key in the screw, and use it as leverage, while gripping the ram with plyers and led strip. It will come off!
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Could I pay you to do this mod for me.... and tune up my diadem so it will be its fastest.
I have four children of my own, and while I do not consider you a child, I feel you should try and become more self assertive in your paintball endevuor... it's for your own good. Trouble shooting is the only thing that will keep you in the game , so I must decline your request, though if you were local, it wouldn't be a problem. Sorry.
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