Anti Chop Eyes
The Anti Chop Eye (ACE) system will prevent the MATRIX from chopping paint by not allowing the marker to fire until a ball is fully seated in front of the bolt. The eyes use a beam across the breech. On one side there is a transmitter, and on the opposite side a receiver. In order for the marker to fire with the eyes turned on, the signal between the two eyes must be broken. After every shot, before the next ball drops in the breech, the eye transmitter must see each other. If the eyes are dirty and cannot see each other between shots, the LED on the board will start blinking green. This means that the eyes are dirty. This is an extremely reliable system as long as the eyes are kept clean. The most common reason for dirty eyes is broken paint. If the eyes become dirty the marker will default to a reduced rate of fire to prevent chopping. If this happens during game play, you can bypass this by turning the eyes off. Clean the eyes as soon as possible.
Note: If the battery is low, the marker may act as if the eyes are dirty or not fire at all. In this case, replace the battery.
Cleaning The Anti Chop Eyes
Quite often, just cleaning the breech out with a swab will clean the eyes well enough for them to read one another. For a thorough cleaning, the best method is to use air. Using an air hose or canned air (typically used for dusting keyboards) works best.
Blow the eyes clean from inside the breech. If you feel the eyes still need a more detailed cleaning, remove the eye cover to gain full access to the eyes.
To remove the eye cover, you will need a 1/16” Allen wrench.
Note: Regular eye cleaning is recommended even if no paint is broken. Clean the eyes every two months or 10,000 shots to eliminate any built up dirt. Excess grease from the front bolt o-ring can build up in front of the eyes. Remember to check for this after greasing the bolt and cycling the marker a few times.
Changing Ball Detents
The ball detents are also located under the eye cover. If you are experiencing double feeding or chopping, check the condition of the ball detents. They should come to a soft point. If they are flat or heavily rounded, they should be replaced. Ball detents should be replaced about every 40,000 shots.
Note: Take care when replacing the eye cover. Over-tightening the retaining screw could result in stripping the threads.
Adjusting Your Trigger
The trigger’s forward travel and over travel are fully adjustable so that the user can fine-tune the trigger to his or her exact liking.
(My note: unplug the eye ribbon, and solenoid wire from the board before removing the grip frame.)
§ Remove the grip frame from the body of the matrix
§ As you pull the frame away from the body, take care so as not to damage the wires running between the two parts. Be careful not to lose the trigger spring.
§ The two adjustment screws are located at the top of the trigger in the grip frame.
§ Use a 5/64” Allen wrench to make the desired adjustments.
§ The screw toward the front of the trigger controls the forward travel. Screwing it in will shorten the trigger’s length of pull.
Note: If this screw is adjusted too far, the switch will be held down at all times and the marker will not fire.
§ The screw toward the rear of the trigger controls the over travel. By turning this screw you can adjust how far the trigger will travel after it reaches the firing point.
Note: If this screw is adjusted too far, the switch will be held down at all times and the marker will not fire.
§ When the desired trigger pull has been achieved, reattach the frame to the body.
§ Take care that the spring is seated properly. Using the trigger without a spring is not recommended and will cause the microswitch to fail much sooner than when a spring is used.
§ Be sure that all wires are laid properly in their appropriate cavities.
Trouble Shooting Guide
Air Leak Between the Frame and Body
§ First remove the frame and try to pinpoint the source of the leak:
§ If it comes from the small hole under the LPR, you need to remove your LPR. The cause of the leak is either one of the #015 o-rings on the outside of the LPR or the #006 o-ring found insde the LPR.
§ If it comes from somewhere around the solenoid, there are three likely causes:
1. #015 on the bolt sail
2. #020 on the cylinder (the one on the middle of the cylinder)
3. Seat under the solenoid
Air Leak From the LPR Cap
§ Remove the LPR and change the forward-most #015 o-ring on the LPR body. If that does not help, change the seal retainer inside the LPR body.
Inconsistent Velocity Over the Chrono
§ In-line regulator not giving consistent pressure: refer to the Hyper2 section below, or if using an after-market regulator, refer to it’s manufacturer.
§ Low batter: change the battery.
§ Bad seals in the bolt: take out the bolt, clean it, lube it with Dye Slick Lube. Replace any o-rings that seem damaged, swollen or in otherwise bad shape. Most likely the o-ring at fault is the #017 front wall o-ring. Also check that the #014 o-ring on the bolt tip is in place
§ LPR pressure set incorrectly or LPR pressure fluctuating: if pressure is too low, the bolt will not cycle correctly. Try turning the LPR pressure a bit higher. If the pressure seems inconsistent, you can have an authorized Matrix center check the LPR pressure. List of tech centers can be found at
www.protopaintball.com
§ Dwell set too low: if you set the dwell too low, the dump chamber will not empty completely and will cause erratic velocities.
Trigger Bounce
§ If you are having excessive trigger bounce when firing the gun, make sure you have an uncut spring behind the trigger. Adjust the trigger so that the firing point of the trigger pull is located about halfway through the travel of the pull. Raise the trigger sensitivity value.
Hyper2 Trouble Shooting
No Or Poor Air Flow
§ Check for blocked air passage in hose line or regulator. Adjustment screw may be screwed in too far.
§ Seat may have excessively deep piston groove cut into it. Replace if needed.
Erratic Velocity or Shoot Down
§ Piston or spring stack may be binding due to excessive dirt or lack of lubricant.
§ Seat may be dirty or damaged. Clean and grease reg. Inspect and replace damaged parts as needed.
Output Pressure Creeps Up
§ Dirty seat or damaged piston face.
§ Clean and inspect; if either is damaged, replace.
Air Leak From Side Vent Hole
§ Piston o-rings may be damaged. Inspect o-rings.
§ Replace if any visible nicks or cuts are found.
Air Leak From Bottom of Adjustment Screw
§ This is a safety bleed-off to help prevent over-pressurizing. De-gas the Hyper2; be sure all air is vented out of the reg. Supply air back to the regulator. The leak should stop. If the leak persists, replace the reg seat. Make sure there are no nicks or scratches on the raised ring at the bottom of the seat-retaining cavity.
Air Leak Between the Body and Rear Cap
§ Replace the #020 o-ring on the bolt rear cap.
Marker Will Not Fire
§ A low battery may cause malfunctions to the marker. In this case, the battery should be changed as soon as possible.
§ If the LED light is red, the marker will not fire because there is no ball in the breech. Hold the trigger for 1 second and the marker should fire. If it does not fire after holding the trigger, or if the LED light is green and will not fire:
§ Make sure the dwell setting is at stock value.
§ Make sure the trigger is adjusted properly and it’s actuating the microswitch.
§ Make sure there are no broken solenoid wires.
§ Sticking bolt: pull out bolt and re-grease o-rings.
Marker Shooting Slow When Eye Is On And Blinking Green
§ The eyes are not working correctly. Clean the eyes. You’ll know that they are clean if the LED turns red when there is nothing inside the breech of the MATRIX.
§ Make sure the eye wires are not broken or pinched.
§ The battery may be low. In this case, the battery should be changed as soon as possible.
Marker Isn’t Working Though Eyes Are Clean And All Wires Are Connected; Marker Does Work If Eyes Are Turned Off
§ Change the battery. The voltage in the battery is too low for the eye to function properly.
Air Leak Through The Barrel
§ There are three possible o-rings that cause this leak:
§ If the leak comes through the inside of the bolt, replace the #013 on the bolt top hat. If the cause is this #013 o-ring, the input pressure to the gun is likely to high.
§ If it’s leaking from the outside of the bolt shaft, the bad o-ring is either the #017 on the inside of the bolt cylinder or the #020 on the outside of the bolt can.
Air Leak From The Back Hole Of The Bolt
§ Take out the bolt, unscrew the back part of the bolt and change the #009 o-ring on the back of the bolt shaft.
§ (Make sure the bolt is all the way back)
EDIT: if yall wanna delete yalls post in the middle and re-post them so that the 2 pieces are together that would be nice, if not then no worries since it's not that big of a space anyway...
IT'S FINALLY DONE!!!