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Old 08-12-2004, 08:34 PM #1
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SPYDER MODS

Please bare with us. Devil and I will be posting how to do Home Mods, including eye installs.

This will take some time, if you see something we missed PM me and I'll see if we can fit it in.

Last edited by Devilstar2k2 : 10-05-2004 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:40 PM #2
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DRILLING STOCK VERTICAL ADAPTERS

This is a how do modify your vertical adapter (VA), this how to was done by ScarletFire73004. I think he did a great job and the pictures turned out good too.

This home mod is a relatively quick and easy mod to
complete. What it does is it opens up the holes in
your vertical adapter so that the air going into your
gun has a higher flow. This is important because it
will allow your gun to run smoother and at lower
operating pressures.

*WARNING- When performing this operation you can hurt
yourself or your marker. I am not responsible for any
mistakes you make while you are going through with
this mod.*

Materials required:
-SAFETY GLASSES- WEAR AT ALL TIMES. I KNOW FROM
EXPERIENCE THAT IT IS NO FUN TO GET A CHIP OF METAL IN
YOUR EYE.
-Hand Drill
-1/8 inch drill bit
-a vice (make sure that it is lined with something-
thick cloth, wood, leather, etc. You do not want marks
on your VA c-

Step one: Removing the VA.

To remove the VA from your gun, you have to locate it
and remove the silver screw on the body. It is between
the trigger frame and the VA. Once you get it off,
remove any regulator, fore-grip, expansion chamber,
etc. that you have on it, including the valve pin
assembly and the LPC. It should look like this (minus
the valve pin, cup seal, spring, and lpc c- I have
identified the parts that we will be working with
during this mod.



Step Two: Drilling ASA.

*safety glasses on*

After removing the o-rings, set your VA in the vice
with the ASA pointing up. Look at your asa. If there
are two holes, you are going to want to just drill
those holes out and make them bigger. If there is only
one, ONLY MAKE THAT ONE BIGGER. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
DRILL ANOTHER HOLE(again, I know this from experience.
I had to replace a friend's VA... it cost me 15
bucks).
What you are going to do it to just drill out the
holes in your ASA to make them bigger. Do not drill
any additional holes. You want to drill just until the
hole is hollowed out. As soon ad you feel the drill go
through the initial hole(s), stop drilling.
My ASA happens to be from a spyder xtra, so it has to
holes.
This is a picture of where you should be drilling.



Step Three: Drilling LPC end

This is the hardest part. It is easy to mess up your
VA if you do not do it correctly.
This time, Put the VA in the vice so that the sides
with the o-rings are facing up. You will need to drill
all the way through the hole. Make sure not to hit the
threads on the other side. It will seriously screw up
your VA. Below is a picture of the hole that you
should be drilling this time.



Step 4: Cleaning up the VA.

First, knock off all of the burrs around your holes
with a wooden dowel. Submerge the VA in water and run
water through it to remove all metal shavings, you
don't want the running through your gun. After
everything is all cleaned up and dry, put everything
back together. You will experience an increase in
velocity, probably about 15 FPS.


Good luck Modding.


I'm working on inserting pictures, so give me a minute

Last edited by the trooper : 10-02-2004 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:54 PM #3
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EYE INSTALLS

Okay, this is going to be a big one, and will be a work in progress.

This mod is to help everyone understand the process involved in doing an eye install for the T-Board, IS Board, and the XSF board. Now if using the XSF eye covers the trigger frame will not require milling, but the eye drilling for the body is the same. In doing this this step by step I chose to use the OtterscCustoms eye template. I feel this will help standardize things. Just to let you know, if you have a Flash, Xtra, and some of the newer bodies the template will not work, so therefore you will need to measure everything out. Just to show you the difference in the E-99 and the Xtra see photo.(E-99 on the left, Xtra on the right)


You will need the following tools: drill, dremel with cutting disk, #2-56 tap the bit size is a #50 (#4 - 40 tap can be used but you will need to drill the cover hole for the bigger screw, this is also a more comon size and comes with drill bit and can be found at Lowes), and some #2-56 (for the stock Timmy screws) or #4-40 stainless steel screws 1/2" long. You will first need to print out the template to scale. Template can be found at http://shunutcreations.com/pdf/eye-template.pdf ,and what I mean by print it out to scale is, there is a scale at the bottom of the template it must measure 1 inch. (look at the picture to see what I mean) You may need to play with your printer sizing to enlarge it, or just print it out and enlarge it on a copier. (I think mine was 106% BUT YOURS MAYBE DIFFERENT)

Picture of the scale and template.



Now that you have your scale to size (1 inch), cut out the template and the holes for the screws and detents and eyes.


Now line up the feedneck screw holes and make sure the dotted line where the eyecover screw goes is centered in the valley between the top and bottom tube. This is very inportant. If it doesn't you run a risk of drilling into the botom tube which will create an air leak, so pay attention. The following pictures will show the steps. (I printed my template out on an ImageSetter that I have, that is why my template is see through, plus it made it durable so I could reuse it) After you made sure everything lines up, mark the holes to be drilled with a marker.




Now notice the 2 silver holes in the valley between the two tubes. Disreguard first one as it was from the origonal template, the 2nd one is the corrected hole. The red hole is where the eye will be drilled.


Now double check that all your measurments are correct. Meaning that if the eye hole 2 1/4" from the front on one side it should be 2 1/4" from the front on the other. So once you have double and tripple checked all your hole markings it is time to start drilling. Lay the body on a clean flat work bench or drill press table. You will need to shim the bottom tube so that the body is level for drilling. I generaly use two penies or two quarters for this, just place one at the front of the bottom tube and one at the back of the bottom tube. In the pictures below I have shown you with a square how the body should be. Notice the side of the top tube compaired with the square, one picture (shimmed) shows both lips of the cut touching the square and on the other picture (not shimmed) only one is.



Now that you have the body leveled out you can begin drilling. I usally start with the eye holes first so that I can pre assemble the marker and test fit the eyes and double check the cover mounting holes line up.
To drill the eye holes I do it in steps, I start off with a 5/64" drill bit. Start by drilling at a angle to avoid the bit from walking around, then slowly level it out. (If you are using a drill press I would recamend moving the bit all the way into the chuck except for about 1/4". This will keep the bit from walking.) Now when your done with this first hole, double check the measurement and compare it with the other side. If you find that your off on the hole you will need to revise the eye placement on the other side to match. Now that you have done that, shim the body and repeat the same process for the other side. Once the bit has entered the inside tube try to line it up with the other hole This will insure that the holes align. Once the holes are completed, repeat the process with a 7/64" bit. (XSF and IS board users, this will be you final bit since your eyes are 7/64.) T-Board users will need to go to a 3mm or #31 bit after they completed the process with the 7/64 inch bit.

Now that the eyes are done now you should drill the second detent hole. Double check that the measurement is correct, I usally use the right side eye cover and flip it over to the left line up the mounting hole on the body with the mounting hole on the cover then measure the distance from the front of the marker to the center of the detent knotch. If it is 2" then make sure the detent hole is 2" from the front of the marker. I use a 3/16 inch bit for the detent hole.

Now it is time to drill and tap the mounting holes for the covers. grab your eyes and put them in the marker, clear on the left side and the smoked color eye on the right side. Install the detents into the covers and place them oin the marker in there proper location. now look though the screw hole on the cover and see if it lines up with the mark you made on the body. If it does then your doing fine. The stock timmies use a #2-56 screw so I would recamend that tap be used. However, you can get a #4-40 tap with the proper drill bit at Lowes or Home Depot, They run bout $2.75 for the pack. The #2-56 tap is hard to find in most cases. I highly recamend a drill press for this hole.

Now it is time to knotch the trigger frame for the eye wires. NOW REMOVE THE BOARD IF IT IS INSTALLED ALREADYI use a 3mm carbide porting bit for this but you can use a dremel and a cutting wheel. You wanna make it deep enough to keep the wires from getting pinched from the body. Mount the trigger frame to the body and install both covers without the eyes. Now mark the frame where the front of the eye cover is on the frame. (thist will give you an idea where to stop making the channel for the wires.) There is not that much to say since the following pictures should explain everything. Just notice how the channel runs where the trigger sits. You don't want you wires touching the trigger because this will cause friction on the trigger and wear on the wires. So keep a lip the to keep them seperated.


Last edited by shunut : 03-05-2012 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:55 PM #4
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INSTALLING AND MODIFYING TRIGGERS

This is my trigger adjustment method to use until Trooper gets his info up... - Shawn

E-FRAME

1. Take off the grip frame.

2. Bang the trigger pin out (from the right side of the gun) with a hammer and little screw driver. (it will be hard to do the first time)

3. TAKE OUT THE SPRING

4. Put the trigger back in. (remember the star/* shaped side of the trigger pin should be on the left)

5. Loosen the screw (on the trigger) with quarter turns, then hold the body against the frame and squeeze tight. Pull the trigger to test it.

6. If you pull the trigger and nothing happens, do the same as #5, but tighten the screw instead of loosening it. The reason nothing is happening is because your switch is staying pressed.

7. Your trigger should rest on the switch, while the screw in the top of the trigger presses against the body of the gun. This eliminates the forward slack and holds the trigger in place against the switch.

8. When you get it set the way you like it, put a drop of BLUE Loc-tite on the toe screw and put your gun away over night; don't walk it til the next day. (the Loc-tite may run if you use too much and shake your gun around before it dries)


MECHANICAL FRAME

BOOMERS MECHANICAL TRIGGER JOB - CLICK HERE

Last edited by Devilstar2k2 : 09-02-2004 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:55 PM #5
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INSTALLING AND MODDING SWITCHES

SWITCH MOD

Quote:
Originally posted by viperguy212

Well, I've seen like 3 threads the past few days about switch mods, and people asking how I did mine, so ill explain how to do it:

#1 - Knock the pins that hold the switch, and the trigger, in place.

#2 - Take out the trigger, and then push the switch out into the the spot where the trigger was, keep all the wires connected.



#3 - Take a knife and pry open the lil tabs on both sides of the switch to open it.

#4 - Now, if you look at the left side of the switch ull see a lil arm holding the back end of the spring...

#5 - Bend that lil arm to the right. - Note: the more you bend the lighter the pull will be. I used a pen to bend it, dont bend it too far.



#6 - Put the top on the switch and install the trigger and switch w/ their pins.

#7 - Turn on ur gun and feel the awesome pull.

Last edited by Devilstar2k2 : 01-10-2005 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:57 PM #6
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STOCK PIN AND VALVE MODIFICATION

Here is 2 good threads on the valve and valve pin mod. They were done by Hellbore and are really good quality.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...2Bvalve+%2Bmod

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...lling+%2Bvalve

Last edited by the trooper : 11-07-2004 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:59 PM #7
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STOCK STRIKER

Here is the stock striker mod, from Slipnot95758. It greatly reduces kick and doesn't have the wear issues like the Titanium ones. This modded striker is 44grams, that is lighter than the stock at 65 grams, but heavier than the titanium ones that are 36grams. You can mill this striker more to reduce weight but I chose to stop here for now. You could how ever mill a slit in the sides to shave another 4-6 grams and this wouldn't hurt the durability, just make sure to leave the some metal at the top for bracing and DON'T remove any material from the bottom side. This will cause the sear to hang up and lead to firing problem.
Here is a picture of the tools involved. I used the 3mm bit on the face, and the bigger grinding bit on the sides and top. You could also use a bench grinder if that's all you have (it's faster too).


Here are the top and side pictures. Notice the area at the o-ring and the tail of the striker was untouched. This will insure that the striker doesn't wobble or lift up during cycles. I don't think I need to go into detail about were to grind since the pictures show all.



Here is a picture of the Otter Modded face. This valley around the nipple gives more surface area so less air is required for recocking.

After all the grinding was done I hit the edges with 300 grit sand paper, and I ran the striker over a Brass Wire wheel that was on my bench grinder. It helped polish and smooth out the rough spots.

Last edited by the trooper : 08-28-2004 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:01 PM #8
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PORTING AMG FRONT GRIP PASSAGE

Last edited by the trooper : 08-12-2004 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 08-19-2004, 09:19 PM #9
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REBUILDING COIL SETS

Last edited by Devilstar2k2 : 08-20-2004 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 08-23-2004, 08:56 AM #10
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STRIPPING ANNO OFF

Okay here is a link to stripping anno, by Carbine. Now Carbine says to use ZEP Crystals, these have been discontinued. You can use ANY brand of crystals you can get, I perfer Draino Crystals. Afterwards you can polish the body or other piece with MOTHERS MAG WHEEL polish. This will give you a chrome like shine.

http://www.carbineshornet.com/stripped.htm

Last edited by the trooper : 09-21-2004 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 08-29-2004, 06:28 PM #11
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AIR ASSIST


Quote:
Originally posted by soccerdude1008

Alright guys, I know a couple of you have/may-be been interested in doing an Air Assit mod for your spyder. Well here's a How-to on doing it.

WARNING: I'm not responsible for messing up your body, your gun, yourself. If you mess up in anyway, it's completely your own fault.


Alright so the whole process is pretty simple. Take off the trigger frame and you will see a hole there without threads. That is the striker bleed hole. Tap that hole and plug it up. Now, you need to drill a hole on the side of the body (the bottom tube). Before you do that, you obviously need to pick a spot to drill it. Placement is very important. Ideally the perfect spot doesn't matter vertically (as long as it stays inside that bottom tube), but matters a great deal horizontally. The perfect horizontal spot is exactly where the old bleed hole was. So take your finger on that old bleed spot, and just move it up to the bottom tube. Line it up right or you will have recocking problems. Tap that hole you just drilled for 1/8" NPT for the macroline fittings to screw into.

Ok so now that you got that all done, you need to pick a place on your feed tube to put the macroline fitting. It would be best to have the air blow down on the balls otherwise you just made a nice air conditioner that really doesn't have much of a purpose. So you want to face the fitting down at around a 45 degree angle. You can change that as you feel the need to. Ok so drill and tap the tube for 1/8 NPT and screw in the macroline fitting. Put macroline in the fittings an viola, you have yourself an Air Assisted Spyder. Now that wasn't so hard, was it!

If you have any comments, suggestions, etc; feel free to post or PM me.

Last edited by Devilstar2k2 : 01-10-2005 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 08-29-2004, 07:22 PM #12
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BOLTS

VENTURI REMOVAL

Quote:
Originally posted by boo1777

To save on air using stock spyder or other venturi bolts, the venturi piece in the bolt can be taken out to create a more free flowing design.

Step 1. Take the bolt out of the gun and disconnect it from the striker.

Step 2. With a pair of needle nose pliers firmy grasp the star shaped venturi piece from the front of the bolt.


Step 3. (OPTIONAL) I didn't need to do this, but some venturis were screwed in with loctite. If this is the case with you, and you can't get the venturi out, use either a lighter and warm up the bolt for a minute or two, or use a torch and it will take a lot less time to heat. Be careful, because the whole bolt will be hot. Either use an oven mit, vice, or clamp it down to hold it. You may want to cover the parts you are going to clamp or vice with a cloth to prevent scratching. BEFORE HEATING TAKE OF ALL O- RINGS! The stock spyder bolt has two or three O-Rings. If you don't take them off before heating they will melt onto the bolt. Heat on the red spot indicated in the picture here:


Step 4. Turn the venturi piece counter clockwise uintil it comes out. Make sure you have a firm grip. Also, put the bolt down against a table with the pin stopping the bolt from rotating if you can't get a grip on the bolt.


Step 5. You can keep the piece after it's taken out or you can ditch it if you know you're not going to use it again. Personally, I keep everything just in case, however your marker will not malfunction or anything like that after you do this mod.


The bolt will now look like this from the front. Notice how much space is in the bolt after the venturi wa taken out.


Step 6. Put the bolt in the gun and put everything back together. You will now be more air efficient because the bolt will have better flow. You will need to turn down the speed of your marker now since velocity will increase. [/b]
---------------------------------------------------------------------

BOLT TIP

Quote:
Originally posted by Nerobro

A new solution to ball chopping problems:

Round the edge of the bolt that contacts the ball stack. our bolt speed is fast enough that we may be cutting balls with that edge.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

BOLT PIN

Quote:
imaginer123 wrote on 09-04-2004 10:51 PM:

this mod will turn your pull pin into a sleek and sexy pull pin to go with your sleek and sexy gun



1- you will need a drill, dremel, polishing wheel and sanding wheel for dremel, vise and grinder.

2- put pin in drill and pull triger, grind till bumps are gone.

3- put dremel in vise with sandy thing in dremel, turn dremel on grinp till smooth

4- put polishing wheel in dremel do same as 3 till smooth and shiny

5- take out of drill let cool stand back and look at shiny new pull pin

Last edited by Devilstar2k2 : 10-04-2004 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 09-11-2004, 01:36 PM #13
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SUCTION MOD

This mod is designed to help pull the ball down through the feedneck vs. the normal blowing wasted air up the feed neck. In doing this mod it will help increase your rate of fire by helping the loader to feed faster.
Click on the link for the whole story.

http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...ight=suctio n
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Old 09-12-2004, 07:17 PM #14
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SPYDER TO INTIMIDATOR CONVERSION

Quote:
Originally posted by fastingrage

timmy spyder conversion: heres an easy way to do this, to save me from millions of pm's. if you screw up your gun im not responsible. you can do this for super cheap if you play it right, dont be scared by some of the high prices, those are probly the things u want to upgrade later, dont worry for now. i did this conversion for 200 bucks, my dad just did his for 170. the best way to do this is to find stuff together and buy it from morons who dont know what their selling, speedballer just outbid me, he paid 50 bucks for a solenoid, lcd, and two wiring harnesses, thats like worth near 150

some benifits of this setup:

way reduced kick, (when i had only shot a spyder i laughed and said it wasnt a big deal, then i tried a timmy and was blown away, it is incredible, then i shot a trix and creamed my pants, lol)

efficiency, youll probly get a little better efficiency than a supermodded spyder, it may stay the same, ill get some numbers when my stuff is back

look, how many people have seen a spyder with a clamshell, they rock compared to a gay esp

performance, the only reason i did this to my gun was because i was tired of waiting on the damn boards that never were coming out, so i knew i could get a was or a frenzy and rip at crazy speeds. timmy parts are made to be hiflo and high quality, for the most part, unlike spyder parts. the main thing i love about my timmy is my 25g microswitch and my cip ball bearing trigger, a ball bearing trigger is soo much smoother, plus you have a much wider range of triggers, trigger guards etc with timmys.

reliability, i have had a lot of supermodded spyders, i only have shown pics of the pretty ones, but either way, i have gotten good reliability from a spyder, then i realized that it is a lot easier to tune your gun with an lpr instead of a spring, you never ever burp with a timmy, thank god, they may not be more reliable, but tuning is easier and less time consuming



pics will be added to everything in a week or two when i get my gun back from my machinist



parts required
note... everything on this list can be found at paintballkingdom.com , but to do it cheap, buy the stuff used
ram
ramsleeve
ramcap
6 pneumatic hose barbs
pneumatic hosing
lpr
spyder bolt
timmy bolt pin
spyder valve spring
poppit
timmy cupseal
solenoid
14 pt wiring harness
12 pt wiring harness
board
gripframe
inline reg or adjustable output tank

ram: any timmy ram will work, not cocker rams, stock timmy rams will be comparable to performance than many upgrades around, the checkit ram allows for no bumper (something youd have to change as it wears out), kapp ram gives you less kick, not much less tho, and the new evil ram allowes for faster cycles and better efficiency but its like 75 bux. checkit rams are 15 and work fine.

ramsleeve: find one used or get one for 45 off of the net, theres no better or worse ramsleeves, id go for used, i got mine with ram and ramcap for 20 bucks

ramcap: if you get a ram that comes with an adjustable cap use that one, if not get an adjustable cap, basically anything with a set screw will work here these are only 20 bucks new

barbs: its cheapest to start out with hiflo barbs, and its probly all you will find anyways, these are better obviously and run 25 bucks for a set of 6

pneumatic hose: cocker hose, get it at your local shop, only get clear, blue is too hard to get off and nobodys gonna see it

lpr: you can use cocker lpr and drill your volumizer and thread if for cocker lpr, but then you have exposed pnuematic hose (i am 100% against uglieness on guns, i would never do that to one of mine), cocker lprs can cost around 35 new, but timmy lprs are only 52 bucks on ebay. single is just an lpr, and double is an lpr and hpr, you can use the second hpr as a volumiser, or buy a timmy volumiser for the single block if you ever want a volumiser

spyder bolt:any spyder bolt will work if its bolt pin is removable

bolt pin: 12 bucks at your local shop, if you dont have top cocking then dremel the top off so it fits in your gun and doesnt hurt your body

spyder valve spring: yes just save your old one, i dont think a lighter valve spring does anything on a timmy, but im gonna test it out when i get my gun back from my machinist

poppit: if you get your ramsleeve used, try to get it with a poppit, because these thinks cost like 30 bucks new and are worth like 3........ its basically the valve for timmys

cupseal: timmy cupseals are different than spyder cupseals so dont waste your money, i got a pack of 5 for 5 bucks

solenoid: 60 bucks at airsoldier.com try to find em used for cheap, make sure when you buy it it works, ive never been ripped off but that would suck if u were, you dont want to buy a blown noid

12 and 14pt wiring harnesses: these piss me off, cost 30 bucks a piece new for just wiring bull****, try to get em used, otherwise you have to spend money that is useless. but they are required, you can skimp, if you dont want eyes or in game mode changes tthen you dont need a 12pt harness

board: sob's are available for under 20 bucks in the miscellaneous parts forum, try to get an lcd version if u like lcd, but sobs are capped at 17bps, the 1.4.3 board with modes is capped at 14 and was, frenzy and entropy, are all capped at way higher than u can shoot.

triggerframe: classic triggerframes are available for under 20 bucks used, otherwise get a used clammy or at last resort dish out 140 for a new one, then buy a trigger. ha

inline reg: you just have to be able to control the high pressure

setup: basically its pretty easy to put together, you can do one of three things. have your body milled for top cocking, have my machinist do a bolt pin mod for your (he makes you a threaded bolt pin and drills a hole in the top of your body), or leave your body as is, top cocking and the bolt pin mod are the only ways ur gonna be able to quick strip your gun tho, otherwise you will have to take the entire thing apart. i did it that way for a while, its not all bad, you get to know your gun very well, lol.

now, hold the ramsleeve next to the bottom of the body and align the set screw hole in the ramsleve with the hole where it goes thru the body, then look at the first little hole in the ramsleeve (it will be around the middle of the body and its a barb hole), see where this is in relation to the body, then drill a hole in the bottom of the body where the barb would be if it where there, i used a 1/4 inch bit and moved it around to make a hole big enough that i could fit my smallest pair of needlenose pliers around the barb to tighten and loosen it, dont just leave enough room for the barb, how were u gonna get it out? you can also drill a small hole, then insert the ramsleeve to see how accurate you were and then take out the ramsleeve and redrill. just dont drill with the ramsleeve in, and dont drill past where the ramsleves back oring would fall, or you wont have a good seal. then make sure your body is clean and free of all metal filings before continuing

ok, its gonna be much easier on orings if you have one of the first two quickstrip mods done, otherwise, lube the hell out of the ramsleeve with dow 33 or 55, connect the bolt to ram inside the ramsleeve and slide em in the back and push forward, i used a rubber mallet on mine and tapped softly. if youve done the mods just take your ramsleeve and insert it from the front where the va goes, then when its in place, with the retention screw in (same screw that holds in your spyder valve) put the bolt in and connect the bolt, then attach all the barbs to the ramsleeve.

lube the poppit and insert from the front, make sure to have a cupseal behind the poppit, then put the spyder spring on the poppit just like you would on your spyder, and attach the lpr, same way as a spyder. now after the screw is tightened down, put on this barb, dont overtighten any barbs cause ive seen people have to buy a new ramsleeve because of that, i broke one off once, but was able to get it out with a super super small flathead screwdriver.

now attach the pneumatic hose (already cut to length) to the barbs, and connect it to the barbs on the solenoid. screw on the trigger frame and youve got your timmyspyder, to get your psi's right, set your lpr at 65-75 and up your psi untill you get the right fps, probly 200-300psi


you will end up with a beast like this

Last edited by Devilstar2k2 : 10-04-2004 at 12:59 PM.
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