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Old 05-19-2004, 11:04 PM #1
Calin
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Problem Solver(in progress) have a problem? Post here.

Ok I'm going to start this thread because I see the same posts over and over and over again.

so I'll categorize these into different fixes. Hopefully I'll have a full repair guide up sooner or later.

LPR - Low Pressure Regulator

Location:
The LPR is located under the barrel, It is the one that runs parrallel with the barrel and perpendicular to the inline regulator(discussed later on in this page)

Ideal Pressures:
Ideal output pressures is 80-90psi. Regardless of the popular 70 psi the safety pressure(meaning the pressure that your gun is suppose to work on no matter what is 80-90). It is true that you can lower it, but do so at your own risk. I recommend you shooting a long string of paint through your gun after you lower to look for drop off. But if you gun has cycling problems try putting it back to between 80-90. You adjust the LPR through the little 3/16 socket allen screw at the tip of the LPR. Turning it in raises the pressure, turning it out lowers the pressure. Make sure you shoot the gun three times everytime you make an adjustment to balance out the pressure.

-----Which gauge is it?-----
The one that comes stock on the intimdiator is the one that you should pay attnetion to. It can only be on the left or right side depending on which type of Intimidator you have.
-----I have Dual Reg Housing what about me-----
If you are one of those that have the Dual reg housings(aka Dualies) The you adjust the LPR through the bottom of the two regs. And the Gauge port is the lower of the two. There is one hole on the left and one on the right. If you look at it one is lower than the other.

Maintenance:
Yes we have to maintain our regulators. To to this you need a tube of DOW 55 corning grease. That is what is recommended by the pros and Bob Long himself.

--Steps:--
1.) First degas your gun. Never work on your marker with it gassed up.
2.) Grab and remove the front end of the LPR.
3.) Depending on what kind of LPR you have you should dump the guts of the LPR into your hand. If you have a lasoya or that type of LPR then the guts should come out with your top portion with the exception of the Piston.
4.) Use needle nose pliers to fetch the Piston. Its the silver thing still in the lpr.
5.) Clean it off with a towel, then apply a thin coat of DOW55 to the O-ring, there is no need to dip the Piston in, the o-ring is all that is needed to be lubed.
6.) If you want clean the inside of the reg housing and apply a light coat of DOW55 on in the inside wall of the LPR.
7.) Now reassemble the LPR by putting the Piston back into the LPR housing, remember small end towards the brass piece and fat end towards the lpr spring. Then put the LPR Spring in, and then the little metal disc(it can be silver ot brass). And then put the cap back on.

Troubleshooting:

-----My LPR is slowly creeping-----
If your LPR is slowly creeping it is mosty likely the small white or clear o-ring under the reg seat. Sometimes it could be the Black one around the reg seat. To get to the o-ring follow these following steps:

Steps:
1.) Degas your marker
2.) Take the rip of the reg tube off(if you have a GZ or that type of LPR) if you have the Lasoya type then you need to seperate the top part from the lower part.
3.) After this dump the internals into your hand. It should be a metal disk and a spring. Set those aside
4.) Look down the tube you should see a silver metallic piece in there. Remove it with needle nose pliers.(You are removing what we call the Piston)
5.) After that you will see a brass piece. You need to remove that. To do so you will need to put a socket wrench on it.(I will insert the size here later) Or you can take a flat head screw driver.(If you do so make sure that you push the pin down while you are doing this otherwise you bend that pin, which will ruin your lpr)
6.) Now use your needle nose pliers to remove the pin valve and just change out the o-ring with a new one.
7.) Now just reassemble

-----My LPR is Still slowly creeping-----

Ok if your LPR is still slowly creeping then I would say that you might have put in a bad o-ring. I know it might be a new one that you put in, but sometimes new ones could be bad. The other option is the little black o-ring that is on the reg seat. To repair this just follow the stesp above, only don't replace the white o-ring, replace the black one.

-----My LPR is Spiking-----

Ok there is a difference between LPR Spiking and LPR Creeping. If you are unexperienced with the two, here is a good way to remember. Creeping is the needle on the gauge moving up slowly and Spiking is the LPR almost immediately jumping really high. Creeping means you have to sit there and watch the LPR gauge sometimes it is slower than others. Spiking is it just jumping and basically anyone with 2 seconds of free time can see the pressure differences

Steps(if you do not have a volumizer, but do have a single reg housing(one tube going parrellel with the barrel not two).

1.) Degas your marker.
2.) Remove the entire LPR from the reg housing.(If you have a Lasoya or that type LPR, remove the top and the bottom of it.(you might need a monkey wrench to do so)
3.) Check the fat o-ring at the base of the lpr. If it has scarrs replace it. If it doesn't lubricate the o-ring and put the lpr back on and see if it spikes again.
4.) If it is still spiking then replace that o-ring.(Keep inmind that if you have a second hand marker, the genious before you might have changed the sizes of the o-ring on you. If that is the case I will be posting the o-ring size later on)
5.) That should solve your spiking problem. Remember when you replace the o-ring to relube the o-ring as well. Please use DOW 55 corning grease.

Steps(if you do have a volumizer and have a single reg housing(one tube going parrellel with the barrel not two).






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Old 05-23-2004, 01:36 PM #2
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I feel that you should give instructions on how to get to the poppet, when it came time for me, i was very confused the first time and had to ask a few patient and knowledgable members.
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Old 05-24-2004, 12:31 AM #3
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Ok..I just got my new alias.. I aired it up and fired about 10 shots(dry fire) , then it just stopped. I could hear it cycle , but the bolt wouldnt move. I have tried almost everything but nothing seemed to work. help?
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:27 PM #4
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Eyes put on forced, but when you shoot it , they go back to bypass.. Help? Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2004, 05:47 PM #5
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First shot drop off on a empire. Have tried the stock piston, delrin piston, etc. still no luck. could it be an o0ring somewhere in the lpr assembly?
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:12 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by The_Stronghold_1
Eyes put on forced, but when you shoot it , they go back to bypass.. Help? Thanks!
clean your eyes and make sure your bolt is in right
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:32 PM #7
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his eyes may be misaligned too. mine were like that. try putting some paper or something behind the eye between it and the eye cover. that will press the eye into the hole and straighten it up. don't put too much or you will damage the eye or push it out into the breech and the bolt will hit it
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Old 05-25-2004, 02:32 PM #8
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I've still got ****ing FSDO on my alias! It won't go away! AAAHH.

I followed the guide on the naughty dogs' site, but its still got REALLY BAD FSDO. WTF?!
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Old 05-25-2004, 08:47 PM #9
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the front hole for the screw that holds the grip frame onto the gun is stripped, should i try loctite, or some jb weld?
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Old 05-26-2004, 12:26 AM #10
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Heli-Coil and some metal cement.

1.Fill the hole with the cement, get the right size drill bit.
2.Drill the Hole after the cement has harded.
3.HeliCoil
4.
5. Profit
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Old 05-26-2004, 11:46 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by The_Stronghold_1
Eyes put on forced, but when you shoot it , they go back to bypass.. Help? Thanks!
look in the clammy and check the connections for the eyes, both under the LCD screen and on the wiring harness
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Old 05-26-2004, 11:27 PM #12
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I have no LCD so don't really know my settings but my timmies eyes don't seem to work at all. Should I just replace them. They seem all connected.
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:30 AM #13
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ok my shocktech wsa working beautifully 1 game and the next game it wont even fire. i tried burping the solenoid manually and it works fine. The bolt cycles and everything. when i pull the trigger it wont activate the solenoid. i changed out the was board and put in a frenzy, that wasnt it. i changed out the tank and the torpedo, that wasnt it. the air is going into the gun and i cant figure out why it wont cycle
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Old 05-31-2004, 01:23 PM #14
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is the microswitch clicking?
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Old 05-31-2004, 01:39 PM #15
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maybe your switch came loose from the wiring harness
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:13 AM #16
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yeah i talked to calin he said just to purchase a new wire harness, hopefully thats the problem becuase i have a tourney this weekend.
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:06 PM #17
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try tightining your trigger screw (the one that holds the trigger in place by the LCD) sometimes that will come loose. or see if there is any paint behind ur trigger maybe you got shot in the trigger... both have happened to me...
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:11 PM #18
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K.r.e.w Kid, make sure your bolt and ram are lined up correctly. the angles on the bolt match the back of the gun. line them up while the pin on top of the bolt is up, then push the pin down when the bolt is lined up. it will snap into place correctly with the ram.
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Old 06-02-2004, 08:43 PM #19
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I have a problem...Im trying to get ahold of a place called BLAST that works on timmys and i cant find any info...i did searches and i still cant find any contact info..i was wandering if ya could help out?...thx for any replies...
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Old 06-04-2004, 07:11 PM #20
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when i turn my timmy on it works fine but when i need to change a setting on the board it didnt work so i took it apart and it turns out the wire harness connected to the left side of the trigger frame is ripped. does anyone no where i can get a new one??
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Old 06-04-2004, 07:14 PM #21
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Cyanical- You didnt search, dont lie, its in the FAQ section in red text, find it yourself.
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