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Old 03-09-2004, 05:55 PM #1
BumFighterKrew2003
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*Problems with TES? Look here!*

I decided to compile a few things about regular problems with the TES. If you see anything wrong or would like to add something, post here.
  • First off, the burping issue: This is when your gun seems like it's going "Full Auto" and it's on Semi. Mostly caused by the pressure in your gun being too high. Get the 32* spring kit, grab the lightest spring, install it. Set your pressure at about 300psi. Take out your sear spring and stretch it just a tiny bit. Make sure your sear is adjusted according to the manual.(Thank you TES Freak, and Cowen)
  • Leaking front block: Get bigger o-rings(tank o-rings) and roll up teflon tape to put at the last o-ring(one closest to the LPC), then grease it up with some dow 33. You can also try and put some thread sealer on the screw that holds the front block in.(Thanks Reloaded for the dow33)
  • Low Velocity: This is where no matter how high you turn up the regulator, you can't get a very good ball speed. There are a couple ways of fixing this. You can buy a spring kit and mess around with the gun until you get it shooting like you want it. Or, you can buy a shim kit from shocktech and put that behind the spring.
  • Eye malfunctioning: This is caused by several things. One, being you have paint or some other substance on the eye, blocking it. Clean the eye thoroughly, that should do the trick. Two, your wires may be shorted to the body. Follow the wires from the eye to the grip frame and make sure none of them are exposed. Third, on the rare occasion. The eye cover screw is stripped and the eye cover falls back just far enough to let the eye see the body of the gun, instead of inside the chamber(happened to me). Simple fix, get a self tapping screw and retap the hole. Last but definitely not least. Don't use black, dark, or clear shelled paint with the eye. The eye is a reflective type eye and those types of shell absorb the beam instead of reflecting.(Thanks FL Native)
  • Wierd size fittings on the regulator and drop forward: If you get a regulator and come to find out the fittings are different, tuff luck. The only fix is to change the drop forward with it, and vice versa.
  • Double shooting, not burping: This is where your marker doesn't burp, but double shoots every now and then. To fix this try putting a lighter main spring in, that usually does the trick. Another trick is is to stretch the sear spring, or replace it(thank you TES Freak).
  • Tank won't fit: This is where your HPA tank won't fit on the stock dropforward. There are two ways to fix this. Try loosening the ASA and sliding it back as far as it can go, then screw on your tank. Or, try removing your ASA off the dropforward, screw on your tank, and put your ASA back on.
  • LCD screen doing wierd things: Your LCD screen says auto 32 or has wierd symbols, or even randomly shutting off. Try either turning the gun off, waiting about 10 seconds, then turning it back on. Or, replacing the battery. Also, if you did any kind of wiring on your own, make sure you did it right. Doing it wrong could cause a short, thus causing strange things to happen.
  • IS or modded switch problems: This is for users who have installed the IS switch or the DIY switch. The switch won't return after firing; loosening the switch holding screws fixes this problem. The trigger doesn't come back; trigger switch is too light and can't return trigger, replace stock switch or a stronger one.
  • Chopping: get a fast loader (Halo B, QLoader, etc), make sure your paint-to-bore match is correct, adjust your ball detent, use quality paint, invest in a JAM bolt for added insurance against chops.(Thank you Reloaded)


    Here's a small FAQ I decided to put together. This is for all the people that ask "Does this bolt fit?" or "Can I put these grips on?"
  • First off, bolts: Any Intimidator bolts will fit, as long as you keep the stock pin. There are a couple of manufacturers that make TES specific bolts. JAM bolts makes the Anti-Chop Delrin Bolt(highly reccomended), Bandit bolts also makes a delrin bolt, Poormanspaintball.com has their own TES specific bolt, there's the Spudnukl Nylatron bolt, and I think that's it.
  • Feednecks: These are hard to come by, but there are a few that work. The Dragon Intimidator Feednecks work on the TES but it does leave a small amount of threads showing. CheckIt products just released their own TES specific feedneck.
  • Dumb clear grips: There are absolutely NO grips that will fit the m92 TES frame. You can wait until a company releases some or you can do a custom paint-job on them like some people have done already.
  • Best bore-to-barrel match: I'm pretty sure the TES barrel is medium bore, so anything that's small or medium should work. I personally would upgrade the barrel as soon as possible. Although, the TES stock barrel is decent, it's still better to upgrade if possible.
  • TES and Low Pressure: There has been a lot of discussion on this. Here's my point of view on it. Yes, the TES is considered a Low Pressure marker. Low pressure tanks can work on them, but are not recommended. You will get better consistency with a Low Pressure tank, but will probably get shootdown. High pressure HPA tanks won't get shoot down as easily as Low Pressure tanks, but will be less consistent. So, if your looking for consistency and not speed, go Low Pressure, and vice versa with HP.
  • Zenitram trigger mod: This is a small mod that needs to be done in order for the Zenitram trigger to work properly. If your looking at the trigger frame from the back. Where the trigger is situated. On the front part of that there should be a slot cut like a half moon tpye thing. You need to cut a small piece of plastic or something and glue it in there just enough to cover the half moon type cut. So it makes it box off. Kind of like this: This ( - to this [ hard to understand, and I'm not entirely sure this is the correct way to do this mod. I'm just going from what I've heard.
  • Full Auto On TES: Even though it says auto on the LCD screen. It isn't. The Semi mode is more like a handicap, and the auto is uncapped. There are rumors that if you disconnect the eye, it becomes true full auto.
  • Adjusting Veloctiy on Stock TES: To adjust the pressure on the stock TES you screw in/out the larger screw on the regulator.
  • TES on Co2: The TES will run off Co2. It's not reccomended because it can damage internal o-rings and have extreme velocity spikes. I would reccomend getting a HPA tank for a first upgrade if you don't already have one.

These are a few threads I thought might help: Bodger's Switch Tutorial, Otters Customs,
Pbreview FAQ, TES upgrade Thread(Thanks Darksypher, Zonedout, and BostonPBaller)

*Note*I'm not responsible if your mess up your gun after reading this FAQ, please take caution when doing some of the things I have stated
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Last edited by BumFighterKrew2003 : 05-03-2004 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 05-05-2004, 01:38 PM #2
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to fix the front block leak . first remove the screw that holds the 90 drgree adapter and replace the blown oring. the screw that holds the block need to have teflon tape wraped around the threads of the screw it self before its reinstalled. the threads will leak through and into the block and blow out the third oring if no sealant is used. do not wrap tape around the 90 degree itself.
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Old 05-05-2004, 05:24 PM #3
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another burp problem could be the striker pin coming lose. its part #11 i think. it can be hammered back into place. this is theproblem if the gun is hard to cock
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:16 PM #4
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Is that the silver sleeve in the striker itself? Is it suppose to sit flush with the striker?
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Old 05-06-2004, 05:27 PM #5
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Are u sure about the double shooting about the new spring.......or doing something to the sear would really fix it? And how is the spring going to stop the double shooting? I just wanna know
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Old 05-06-2004, 05:29 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by timmy owner
Are u sure about the double shooting about the new spring.......or doing something to the sear would really fix it? And how is the spring going to stop the double shooting? I just wanna know
a stronger spring would press the sear tighter against the hammer as it flies by thus making it harder for the hammer to double fire again and slide past the sear.
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Old 05-06-2004, 05:48 PM #7
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the spring helps sometimes.but if you make the pin that runs through the solionoid shorter it will raise the sear height that will work better.
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Old 05-06-2004, 08:44 PM #8
BumFighterKrew2003
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Also, the sear won't come up as fast. It could float, sort of like a valve spring in a car can do if it's too weak.
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Old 05-06-2004, 09:45 PM #9
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now i really understand.........thanks
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Old 05-06-2004, 10:37 PM #10
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and the silver sleeve thing i was talkign abotu should not sit flush. it should stick up some. enough to hold the bolt in theorrect place.
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Old 05-06-2004, 10:59 PM #11
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Someone please help me...I just got my TES and I screwed my HPA in the gun and i heard a leak...i figured out the leak was coming from the reg. and there is a hole right in the middle of the gauge...I need to know if this is normal or is this a problem? My freind has a reg. on his gun and Ive used it...I havent seen nor heard any leak on the reg. Im not sure what to do. Please help me.
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Old 05-07-2004, 08:25 AM #12
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find out first where the leak is coming from. and yes the hole is normal
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:35 PM #13
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It's more then likley the Scrwe that goes into the bottom of the 90* adapter by the reg.. Look at the gun from the bottom, see the three screw's? see the one closest to the gauge? take it out, and wrap the end of the thread's by the head with teflon tape, All shall be well..
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:57 PM #14
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Thanks for your help guys, but I did that already...wrapped the screw, and still it leaks. The leak is coming through the gauge. I even wrapped the gauge threads. I don't know where else to check. I will replace and lube the o-rings tonight and see if that helps. Any other suggestions are welcome!
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:42 PM #15
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If it is infact the gauge, Replace it, there only like $6, and the stock one's arnt designed for TES's anyway's. and they've been caught 150psi off..

But, im thinking it's the front block leaking, in which, i took some teflon tape, and wrapped the end with the o-ring's. I had a VERY detailed how-to written up in this thread, but it got deleted, and the person in charge of this thread did'nt bother updating..
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Old 05-07-2004, 04:27 PM #16
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Im going to get a new gauge and some new o-rings to put around the reg. so it should work fine after this~!
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Old 05-08-2004, 11:41 AM #17
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zonedout, there is already a how-to on the leaking front block. There isn't a whole lot else you can do to fix it.
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Old 05-08-2004, 05:35 PM #18
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BFK, once you filter through all these posts, and add any info to your first post you deem important, I'll clear the rest of these posts up, so theres only the first. Just PM me, or post "Ready for deletion"... or whatever. This is your baby, you get to take care of it

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Old 05-08-2004, 08:27 PM #19
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Chopping: get a fast loader (Halo B, QLoader, etc), make sure your paint-to-bore match is correct, adjust your ball detent, use quality paint, invest in a JAM bolt for added insurance against chops.(Thank you Reloaded

This is what u said im lazy dont wana quote (long day of paint ball with noobs...)

Do u relize that the eye doesnt alow u to shoot with out a ball in there i got a egg on my tes no chops once ever blue moon....
Ive got a spud bolt but not installed yet so the eye only lets u shoot about 16 bps (this is what ive hurd dont quote) i think but i cant count that fast
So lets compare
Egg 75$ off ebay BTW IMPORT NOTE: U have to sand the eggs neck in order for it to fit on a tes The eggs neck's are weak so i do recomend a HB
HB 130$ dunno about sanding but i know they are nice
SO choping is really not a HUGE deal because thats why the have eye's

The eye really isnt too good it doesnt see dark balls(this i what i hurd i play with nice orange balls EVIL (this stuff taste BAD))
All so about the TES
On ebay there is a trigger switch up grade for them i got mine with shipping for 6 $ It has helped me ( so i think ) the worst part about it was the darn soduring (cant spell) Im not very good at soduring any thing so...

My tes does have problems with leaking.... I knew it was leaking but i just wasnt sure where today i hurd shhhh nice and quitely :S o boy look who gets to replace O rings right below the ReG
The stock barrel isnt really bad even though a AA is better if u would like to drop about 80$
About the most anoying think about the tes is the dang drop forward that comes with it ... if u are shooting HPA right when u get the TES get a drop forward

Thats the bad stuff i have experinced with My TES now for the good
Very light pull
Ready to go once u get it (if u got a drop for ward or u can take what they have and pull it back then tighten it) the marker over all is impressive...


O yea one more thing bad about the tes... the hose ect (the think that take the HPA up to the marker) and ever thing in there section(that i know about) are harder to find parts for in the USA because its er brain fart uh u know its metric i think or the other one because we where tanking it apart at the shop and had a bit of a problem *sorry i look like a noob right there but its different i just cant explain it*
The TES is a VERY good bang for its buck
It very nice and ive had a few people have to look twice at it to see if its a timmy

O man i just read daves msg
I'll clear the rest of these posts up
lol for the love of god
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:37 PM #20
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Is there a more permenant fix for the air leak on the front block (rather than using teflon or straight up buying a different gun?). I am extermely happy with my TES, but the front block air leak kinda bugs.

Has anyone contacted dragun about it? what do they say?
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:12 AM #21
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Thanks for everyone's help. I replaced the gauge and that took care of the leak!
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