Remove the LP hose and take the LPR off the gun with an adjustable wrench.
Step 2:
Remove the big brass screw that holds the LPR on the front block.
Step 3:
After taking off the brass screw, you should see a silver screw in the body of the LPR. Behind it is a spring for the tension.
Step 4:
This is the harder step. This is where the adjusting begins. First of all you will not get the right pressure on your first try so don't expect to. This will require time and experimenting. As you turn IN the silver screw the psi get LOWER, out makes it higher.
You should start out with the screw almost all the way in. Re-assemble the reg, put it back on and see if it cocks. If it dosent(which it probably wont) take it back off and follow steps 1-3 again. Then screw it out more. You want to put it back on to test it after every adjustment. Do those steps over and over until you have your cocker cocking everytime consistantly. With the WGP I would suggest after you get it set, screw it out about a 1/4 a turn and you are set.
Step 5:
Put it all back together and put it on your gun. Go have a blast and you should now be pinching balls instead of chopping.
__________________
----Life is too short to own an ugly marker.
----The most effective cocker' killer is a newbie with a set of hex keys.
----Be nice to your balls, play w/ your cocker. (or Excalibur)
Alright, I'm tired of people asking for a parts list for the cocker, and since the above diagrams aren't labeled, here's a top-of-the-head list of the parts you'll need to build one:
Barrel
Body
Grip frame
LPR
Ram
3-way
3-way shaft
3-way O-rings (2 or 3 depending on model)
Front Block
Banjo Bolt (correct size)
Banjo Bolt O-rings (2)
ASA Adapter
ASA O-ring
ASA screw (to hold ASA adapter)
Valve spring
Valve Assembly (cup seal, valve stem, valve body)
Valve Body O-ring
Valve retention nut
Valve Jam Nut
Valve Jam Nut Face O-ring (optional)
Hammer
Hammer Lug
Mainspring
Velocity Adjuster or IVG
Cocking Rod
Cocking Rod Bumper
Beavertail
Beavertail screw (also holds IVG)
Back Block
Bolt (with O-rings)
Bolt Pin
Pump Rod
Timing Rod
Timing Rod Screws (1 or 2 depending on model)
Trigger Plate
Sear
Sear Pin
Trigger Spring
Sear Spring
Trigger Shoe
Trigger Height Screws (2, for 45 frames)
Pneumatic Hose/Tophats/Barb fittings
Grip Frame Screws (2, to hold grip frame)
Ball Detent
Feed Tube (on some models)
Grips
Onto this you add your regs, tanks, drops, etc., but that's all you need to build the gun itself. If I'm an idiot and I left something off, PM me and I'll edit this post.
While I'm in here, here's a nifty way to remove a stubborn cocking rod:
Go out in your garage (or to the local hardware stores) and get yourself TWO 10-32 threaded nuts. Remove the knob on the cocking rod. Thread one of the nuts onto the back of the cocking rod as far as it will go. Take the other one and thread it onto the rod until it makes contact with the first one. You can now grip the first nut (the one that's closer to the gun) and grab it with pliers, vice grips, etc. to unscrew the cocking rod. Works like magic, and no scratches.
Allen wrench sizes:
Velocity: 3/16"
Hammer Lug: 1/8"
Grip Frame: 1/8"
Three way coupler: 1/16" or 3/64" (not sure on that one, after market couplers take a larger size)
Banjo Bolt: 3/16"
Trigger Shoe: .050"
I do belive the props go to Vamps on this one. I think he posted it a long time ago.
Those articles do a very good job of explaining the process of timing a cocker. All threads asking how to time one will be closed, unless the author specifically states that he/she has read all of them and has not found the answer.
CQ
Last edited by Conqueror : 08-28-2003 at 10:18 AM.
please do not take this as a blatant plug. it's a request for an addition to the companies section.
the company that makes the JAM Bolt for the autococker should be in the "companies" section. IMHO i believe this is the best possible upgrade for any autococker user. they make a amazing anti-chopping product that does not require you to mill into your body or force you to buy an e-blade or race frame.
__________________
MPP is back..... Sort of. See the site for more details. www.moodypb.com
Please, no more PMs. The inbox for PMs is full, and it's going to stay that way. If you want to contact me, use the appropriate e-mail address on the MPP site.
Eclipse Blade MK I, II and III
Shocktech V1 and V2
Dye
Dye Single
CCM Rope
KAPP Reflex
WGP 1st and 2nd Generation
AIM Products Hinge (WGP copy)
System X V1 (WGP copy) and V2 (CCM Rope Copy)
Powerlyte Axis
32 Degrees (Dye copy)
Promark (KAPP copy)
AKALMP
Last edited by AutoMaggot : 11-10-2003 at 10:02 AM.
