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Old 02-09-2004, 08:54 PM #1
levib
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New Intimidator Owners' information!

I decided to compile some general info for new Timmy owners that gets asked all the time, even though it can be found through a search...


Things that all Timmys need:
  • Adjustable ram cap, unless you happen to have an Alias (doesn't need one) or an Empire (comes with one)
  • WAS (Manual), Entropy (Manual), or newer (2k4) board
Everything else is preference. Strap on a loader, trigger, and barrel of choice, and you'll be good to go.


What HPA system should I get?

Optimal input pressure to a torpedo regulator is 500psi. That said, anything between 400 and 900psi works fine. Any preset or adjustable tank will work.


If you use a Halo or similar forcefeed loader, you may need to get extra hard detents if you have problems with double feeding.


Lubing the regulators:
Please note that both regulators on Intimidators must be lubricated properly before firing! You follow more-or-less the same directions for both regulators.
  1. Disassemble regulator into its two halves
  2. Remove washer, spring, and piston
  3. Wipe the parts decently clean with a rag or paper towel, careful not to leave any fibers on it
  4. Apply a light coat of Dow 33 or Dow 55 to the piston's o-ring
  5. Reassemble, careful to leave the skinny end of the piston towards the reg valve


Adjusting the ram cap:
  1. Gas your Timmy up so the bolt is all the way back, with no loader or paintballs
  2. Feel down your feedneck into the breech and note where the front of the bolt lines up
  3. Using a 5/64" allen key (at least for Hybrid ram caps), move the adjuster screw in or out to line the front of the bolt up so that it is just barely sticking into the feedneck, about 1/16"


Ultimate Timmy tool kit:
  • Allen keys used:
    1/8": grip frame->body, regulator housing screw
    3/32": clamshell grip frame screws, trigger screw, trigger frame screws
    5/64": grip screws, trigger adjustment screws, adjuster screw in ram cap (at least for Hybrids)
    1/16": board retaining screw, solenoid screw, eye cover screws, side plate screws
  • Crescent wrench that goes up to 1" wide
  • Replacement o-ring kit
  • Spare cup seals if not using a Black Magic cup seal (Unless you have a poppet stem with the delrin end, in which case a cup seal isn't needed. The Empire and Alias Intimidators both come with these poppet stems.)
  • Spare ram bumpers (unless using Shocktech ram or Alias)
  • Spare ball detents (Spyder detents work, but you may need extra hard detents if you use a Halo B)


Common problems and their solutions:
  • Leaking down barrel: Lube, flip, or replace cup seal.
  • Leaking from bolt area: Front ram o-ring needs lubed and/or replaced.
  • Chopping paint: Make sure the adjustable ram cap is screwed in tightly and adjusted properly. If you are using a non-forcefeed loader or are and only the last few balls chop, and are using a newer board, set your ball in place delay to 3ms.
  • First few shots spiking significantly (greater than 25fps): This is a problem with the machining of the torpedo's spring, and is solved by diassembling the torpedo and sanding down the edges of the torpedo's spring so they are smooth.
  • Velocity fluctuating (over 10fps): This is probably a dwell that is set too low. See "The dwell question" below.
  • LCD screen doesn't show anything or is garbled/unreadable: This is almost always one of two things. The first is the top left-hand grip screw tightened down too hard when it has no o-ring. This results in the screw pushing down on the ribbon cable, distorting or blanking the LCD screen.
    The other possibility is the LCD ribbon cable itself isn't attached properly. Insure that the metal contacts are clean on the one side (if they aren't, a little steel wool cleans them up very quickly), that the side with the contacts is facing towards the left side of the board, and that the connector is secured, with the white tabs on either side of the ribbon cable's connector pushed down towards the board.
  • Very slow ROF (Rate of Fire): First, make sure the eyes aren't bypassing, which is generally capped to around 13bps.
    If that is right, ensure that your adjustable ram cap is adjusted properly! As a ram bumper wears down, the bolt will sit further and further back the breech. If paint is allowed to roll back just a little bit from where it should be (in front of the eyes), the eyes think there is no paint. If you have to shake your Timmy occasionally to make it shoot, this is almost always the culprit.
    If the board isn't picking up trigger pulls at all, make sure your trigger's activation set screw (the middle one) isn't too far in. Most people need a longer pull with switch activation in the middle for the fastest pull. Along these same lines, make sure the wires to the trigger switch are in tip-top shape.
    If none of these is the cause, practice walking your trigger, since it's probably you!


Maintenance (Compliments of SilverLCDBushy):
  1. Pull up the bolt pin and slide out the bolt, get a wet rag and wipe down the bolt, if there are any dark spots scrub hard and it should go away
  2. Take off your barrel and screw it apart if you have a 2-piece, then wash it with water and squegee it dry
  3. Take out the ram by unscrewing the ram cap and tilt the gun backwards, holding your hand under the hole... it should slide right out
  4. Check the front and back o-rings on the ram for tears or rips, also look at your ram bumper and see if its not cracking or spilting
  5. Wipe all the old grease off and put a fresh coat of dow 55/33 ( DO NOT use white lithium grease, it will eat your orings), and put it back in, also put a little dab of dow on the ram cap threads and oring
  6. Take off the bottom of your torpedo regulator, there should be a o-ring there lube it so it seals, put that back on, for people who have other regs, lube the orings, this is a vital part of your gun!
  7. Now on to the front reg, if you have a volumizer take it off and lube the oring on that then carefully pull out the piston with some needle nose pliers and wipe all the old grease off that and apply a new coat
  8. Put that back together, make sure the fat end of the piston is back towards the spring when you put it in
  9. Back to the bolt, get some tri-flow from a bicycle stop or hardware store and put a few drops on the bolt and smear it around on the o-rings, then insert it and line it up with the ram and your done
  10. After all this wipe it down with a damp rag and put the barrel back on and you're done
  11. Grease the ram after every 3,000 shots or so, and grease the poppet every 5,000-6,000 shots, and finally grease the front regulators after every 2 times you play.


Gassing up for the day (Compliments of Jack & Coke by way of Bob)
  1. When you first gas up your Timmy for a day of paintball, screw in your tank (or turn on the on/off ASA). Your gun will pressurize and you will be able to fire it.
  2. Take a hex wrench and back the set screw of your LP Reg out (counter clock-wise) until it is flush with the end cap. Do the same to the HP reg. Fire your marker a few times as you do this and you will immediately notice that the system loses pressure to the point that it will not cycle (Kinda like when you de-gas a CO2 bottle from a marker).
  3. After both reg screws are flush and the gun cannot fire, slowly begin turning the LP reg screw in (clock-wise) in small increaments (i.e. 1/16 of a turn) as you fire the gun. Keep doing this until your main gauge reads 85 psi. Now your opperating pressure is set.
  4. After you have set the operating to 85 psi, slowly screw in the set screws in the the HP reg (clock-wise), until you see about 4 threads. This should put you in the neighborhood of 250-310 fps.
  5. Go to a chrono and fine turn the HP reg setting until your marker is shooting at the velocity you want.
  6. DO NOT DE-GAS YOUR GUN FOR THE REST OF THE DAY. Bob keeps his marker pressurized until his is done for the day. Only use your power on/off switch to disable your gun.


The dwell question

The best way to determine what your recommended dwell should be is to look at the wires coming out of the solenoid. If both wires are black, set your dwell to 8ms to be stock. If your wires are green/black and the solenoid is a Humphrey H040-E1, set your dwell to 8ms to be stock. If your wires are green/black and any other manufacturer or model number, your dwell should be at least 16ms. You'll find the slower solenoids mostly in older Timmys.


High flow barbs or not?

If you can fit a .050" allen key inside the barb, it is high flow. All new Intimidators (since April 2003, or so) have come with high flow barbs.


Best places to get Intimidator parts:
Any additions/corrections are welcome!
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Last edited by levib : 02-17-2004 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 02-09-2004, 09:45 PM #2
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Good job levib.
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Old 02-09-2004, 09:51 PM #3
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for the cheaters thatt are comin over or the parking lot pro's

debounce 1 on 2.6 and below

1. Hold Trigger while turning on gun
2. pull trigger to scroll threw the led colors
3. when the Led turns green stop and hold the trigger till it gots blank
4. let it blink the number of your debounce
5. pull the trigger the desired amount in this case once.
6. dont touch anything and let the LED scroll through the colors
7. wait till it turns solid green and then ur set


ONLY FOR WAS EQ VERSION 2.6 AND BELOW
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:02 AM #4
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Just a little thing I wrote....

Lets start with the basics, pull up the bolt pin and slide out the bolt, get a wet rag and wipe down the bolt, if there are any dark spots scrub hard and it should go away. Next take off your barrel and screw it apart if you have a 2-piece, then wash it with water and squegee it dry. After that take out the ram by unscrewing the ram cap and tilt the gun backwards it should slide right out. Check the front and back orings for tears or rips, also look at your ram bumper and see if its not cracking or spilting. Wipe all the old grease off and put a fresh coat of dow 55/33 ( DO NOT use white lithium grease, it will eat your orings), and put it back in, also put a little dab of dow on the ram cap threads and oring. Then take off the bottom of your torpedo regulator, there should be a oring there lube it so it seals, put that back on, for people who have other regs, lube the orings, this is a vital part of your gun!. Now on to the front reg, if you have a volumizer take it off and lube the oring on that then carefully pull out the piston with some needle nose pliers and wipe all the old grease off that and apply a new coat. Put that back together, make sure the fat end of the piston is facing upwards when you put it in. Back to the bolt, get some tri-flow from a bicycle stop or hardware store and put a few drops on the bolt and smear it around on the orings, then insert it and line it up with the ram and your done. After all this wipe it down with a damp rag and put the barrel back on and your done. Grease the ram after every 3,000 shots or so, and grease the poppet every 5,000-6,000 shots, and finally grease the front regulators after every 2 times you play.
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:52 AM #5
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Ian... I just added links to the manuals for the two boards.

SilverLCDBushy... adding it now.
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Old 02-10-2004, 06:11 PM #6
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Added "The dwell question" and "High flow barbs or not?"
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Old 02-10-2004, 06:20 PM #7
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Nice write up levib, I'm sure many will appreciate it.
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:05 PM #8
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Skinny end goes down, like in first, fat end is suppose to be facing up.. besides that great job
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:21 PM #9
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Hmm... I'll try and clarify that.
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Old 02-11-2004, 12:16 AM #10
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Added "Which HPA system should I get?"
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Old 02-11-2004, 01:03 AM #11
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good job man, helps out...
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Old 02-11-2004, 05:33 AM #12
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Already answered a few of my questions.
Mods sticky this.
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:51 AM #13
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Glad it's helping. Took me long enough to write up.
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Old 02-11-2004, 01:47 PM #14
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Levib: excellent information, and it's much appreciated. While I won't make a new sticky, you're welcome to add a post to the FAQ/Maintenance/Modification Links thread, which is already stickied.
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Old 02-11-2004, 02:16 PM #15
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question about Alias maintenance

if i have a white tube dow55, could it still be white lithium grease, am only asking cause all the tubes of dow55 i see online are green...

also what's a poppet?
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Old 02-11-2004, 03:18 PM #16
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Thanks hypersonicaz... I made this thread because people seem to be unable to read a whole entire thread to find information they're looking for. Some of the information in that thread is sort of old, too... I copied the stuff from this thread and put it in that thread, all the same.

PagePimp... The poppet is the cone-shaped spring between the regulator housing and valve stem that keeps the valve stem closed when the marker isn't firing.
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Old 02-12-2004, 05:03 PM #17
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Added "Gassing up for the day," originally written up by Jack & Coke.
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:56 AM #18
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Fixed a couple small errors. I was going to add something else, but totally forgot what.
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:23 AM #19
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just found out that on an Alias, not only the torpedo spring must be sanded down but also a spring in the LPR
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:44 PM #20
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great job man, few things to add:
The common new alias problems (i believe they have been fixed) sanding down the spring in the reg, correctly aligning the eys.

the garbled LCD screen-make sure the LCD ribbon is not bent and is fully connected to the board.
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:41 PM #21
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liviB: Might want to add places for repair parts..for example http://www.paintballkingdom.com/inde...S&Category=233? i dunno
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