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Old 02-28-2005, 09:57 PM #1
therealmr
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98c FAQ

The basics of the Tippmann 98 custom - some stuff you should know about it if you're planning to buy

Weight around ~3 pounds
Length around 23 inches with a 14inch barrel, not including tank
Efficiency: around 400 shots on a 9oz, depending on weather (it’s a gas hog, expect less)
Stock cycle rate: 11 balls a second (only expect 4-5 with single trigger and no mods)
Action: semi-auto open bolt blowback with side cocking


What's the big deal with it?

There are many things that make the 98 custom an excellent choice for a beginning to mid level players. The first and foremost - dependability. Unlike Spyders (another popular beginner-mid gun), which seem to break down and jam fairly often, the Tippmann can go without maintenance for a very, very long time without too much worry. As for jams - I have yet to see mine jam yet with even my response trigger... for TWO years. It may not seem like a big deal, but when you're playing on the field and you see your opponent dismantling his gun because of a jam --- you'll be happy you have a Tippy

Another large appeal to all players is the mass amount of upgrades, including scenario upgrades. The Tippmann was really built for every player in mind. There are stocks, foregrips, commando sets, cocking systems, powerfeeds, response triggers, low-pressure system, nice double triggers, flatline barrel, and the big ol' e-bolt. The GTA products (direct from Tippmann) even have anodized safety buttons.

The Tippmann has a very light trigger pull - about 2.5 pounds, which is significantly shorter than many other mechanical blowbacks. And with a double trigger and some practice, you shouldn't be surprised if you start hitting 6-7bps.

The foregrip is also very appealing to the masses - it's position evens out the guns weight by placing it directly under the hopper. With a tank, hopper, and barrel… the foregrip makes the gun feel lighter than the ~7 pounds it weighs

The next large difference than all other guns is the sidefeed the 98 employs. There are two great things about it that set it apart from the rest of the guns in the market today. The first is that it allows the player to aim without having to guess because the vertical feed or powerfeed is in the way (even though you should learn how to aim down the barrel anyway ). You can look straight down the sight and down the barrel. The other useful property it carries is the ability for the player to take it off with a hit of the front sight, making it easy to clean up a possible jam, misfeed, or if you need to clean the barrel fast.

The design of the Tippmann can be disliked, or used to it's maximum potential based on six screws. Although it is impossible to field strip without fear of losing some part of your gun, you can get at every little piece and tinker with it if you wish. If there's something wrong, chances are you can open it up and figure it out.

Owners Groups (composed by NN):

MODEL 98/CUSTOM 98 = http://model98.proboards40.com/

"OLDER MODEL TIPPMANNS" = http://www.mcarterbrown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi _and_ http://www.vintagerex.com/forum/

Other useful links:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=509964

^^^Opinions about flatlines

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=546330

^^^98c screw and nut chart

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=503242

^^^Evil 98’s top cocking



Tippmann’s number – call if you have a question about getting a stock product: (260) 749-6022
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Last edited by therealmr : 05-21-2005 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:57 PM #2
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98 Custom Expansion Chamber Installation Instruction



Step 1
Set up a table with plenty of space to work. You will need a 1/8" allen wrench, a cresent wrench and a 7/16" wrench.

Disassemble the marker:
1. Remove CO2 Tank and have the in uncocked position.
2. Remoe tank adapter screws.
3. Disconnect gas line from tank adapter.
4. Remove all 6 reciever bolts holding gun together (NOTE: When reassembling, longest bolt goes in front grip).
5. Separate the tw halves of the marker.

Step 2
Lift out the following parts: Put these parts in a safe place for reinstallation later.
  • Front Sight, Spring, Pin (short)
  • Ball Latch
  • Front bolt
  • Linkage Arm
  • Rear bolt (with Bolt Handle & Rear Bolt Insert)
  • Drive Pin and Spring
  • Buffer 0-ring
  • End Cap
  • Tank Adapter with Nuts a
  • Time Saver: It is NOT necessary to remove trigger parts to install this expansion chamber.

Step 3
Remove the valve Assembly:
  • Turn the right half of the marker over and remove the two 1/8" allen screws hold the valve assembly.
  • With 7/16" wrench, remove gas line from valve, this gas line will not be re-used in this installation.
Step 4
Prepare Vavle & Attach Adapter
  • Clean valve threads, be careful not to drop debris into the valve.
  • Apply loctite to the vertical adapter threads.
  • Using the cresent wrench, screw the adapter into valve until just one thread is left visible (be careful not to bend the adapter or valve). Wipe off any extra locktite.

Step 5
Check Adapter/Valve Aseembly Fit

Place only the adapter/valve assembly into the right half of the gun to check its fit. Do this before the locktite has a chance to completely set up (about 5 minutes). If it doesn't fit real qwell turn the fitting as needed. Put the two screws that hold the valve in place back into the marker. With only the valve/adapter in the marker, put the left side back onto the right side. Align halves (a slight gap between halves is normal), insert 6 screws, apply downward pressure on receiver and tighten screws starting from left to right. Be sure everything looks ok when the two halves are together. As long as you get the 2 halves together, the installation of the vertical adapter was successful. If not you need to adjust how the adapter sits in the marker.

Step 6
With valve/adapter properly fitted -- Put marker back together.

Take the two halves apart and replace the internal parts layed out above to the way they were when you took the marker apart. PUt the left side back on marker and reattach with 6 receiver bolts.

Step 7
Install Expansion Chamber, Gas Line and Tank Adapter.

1. Screw the Expansion chamber into the front grip, lining up gas line connection point towards the marker grip.
2. Put loctite on one end of new gas line threads and screw gasline into the Expansion Chamber. Wipe off excess loctite.
3. Put loctite on threads of remaining end of new gas line and screw into tank adapter. Wipe off excess loctite.
4. Complete installation by attaching tank adapter to marker with 2 tank adapter screws.

(written by PA / Reaper22)
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:57 PM #3
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Assembly Instructions For Flatline Barrel System



1) Remove the existing barrel.
2) All Model 98's and 98 customs under 8,000 (serial #), skip step 3 & 4.
3) Refer to your owner's manual: Remove cover or left half of receiver.
4) Remove rear sight assembly & put left receiever half back on. (Skip step 5 & 6)
5) Remove sight by removing the E-clip on the adjuster screw.
6) Remove screw & sight assembly.

Installing Flatline Barrel, adapter, and shroud

Step 1
Loosen 3 bolts on the receiver in order to take the tension off of the barrel area.

Location of 3 bolts:
  • Bolt 1: at front sight
  • Bolt 2: at front grip
  • bolt 3: above trigger guard
Step 2
Install Flatline adapter.

Allign the adapter so that the pinch bolt tab is centered in the 6oclock positioni.

Step 3
Install Flatline shroud.
  • Remove the bolt from the rear of shroud.
  • Install shroud on top of the marker and insert screw through the hole in the rear sight, then tighten.
Step 4
Install barrel.
  • Apply oil to the inside surface of the barrel adapter.
  • Apply oil to the outside surface of the barrel up to the end of the flat notch.
  • Slide barrel through handle with the flat notch on top.
  • Once the barrel starts into the adapter, tap (using a rubber mallet) the front of the new barrel to make sure it slides all the way into the adapter.
  • Re-tighten all three receiver bolts.
  • Tighten adapter pinch bolt.
Note:
If the flight of your paintballs is constintently to the right, you will need loosen the adapter pinch bolt and rotate the barrel counter clockwise. If the paintballs fly to the left, rotate the barrel clockwise.

(written by PA / Reaper22)
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Old 02-28-2005, 10:00 PM #4
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Tippmann 98 Custom - Make that trigger pull extra light!

A lot of you, lately, have been asking how to reduce the trigger pull of your Tippmann 98. And boy oh boy do I remember the day when it felt like I was lifting weights with my fingers just to get it firing. So what have I done? I've taken a couple pictures (and time) to put together a little, simple, and short, step-by-step instructions for getting you pull nice and light. I've also included a video of what you can expect by doing this at the end of the post.

I am not liable for any damage you cause to your marker.

Step One

Dissassemble your marker. This, of course, is done by unscrewing the six body screws and taking off the reciever. After doing this, you should be looking at the internals of your gun. Here's a picture of what you're going to be taking apart / messing with.






Step Two

Take out the spring to the far left. This an unnecessary spring that just makes it annoying to fire Bad bad bad. If you like the feel of it, you can always put in a lighter pen spring later.

Speaking of pen springs... go find yourself a pen and wire cutters! Right? Good. Now take apart the pen and grab the spring inside. Some of them have smaller size springs, some have larger ones. I like the really long ones because using them allows me to cut to whatever length I want. Generally, they're lighter as well.

So now that you have a spring from a pen and some cutters to trim it once you're ready... why don't you go ahead and take out the trigger. As you can see, there is a metal sleeve on the back-end. In this sleeve is a really heavy spring, exactly identical to the one that we took out from the front of the trigger earlier. There's a punch pin that holds this sleeve in place. Get something to push it out --- that pen you stole the spring from should work wonders. Careful though, there's a lot of tension and it'll shoot out once the pin is released, make sure not to lose anything

When you're done, it should look like this:




Now here's the part that is up to you, and I'm just going to throw up into the air --- you have a replacement spring... chances are it's either too long or too heavy (yep, even that small pen spring is pretty heavy) for the pull to feel nice and light in the end. Go ahead and cut it. Experiment. Remember - it's better to cut too little than too much. You can always re-assemble the trigger and feel the tension by pushing on the sleeve. Don't make it too light - some tension is needed... and if there isn't enough then you won't be able to fire.

Once you get the desired amount of spring tension, put the sleeve back on and place the pin in the trigger. Yay! Only one more thing to do!



Step Three

Now here comes the part that really smoothens out your pull. The sear spring. If you look back at the first picture, it is the spring to the far right that is connected to the sear and one of the lower trigger pins. The stock sear spring is pretty heavy, and accounts for most of the pressure needed to make the marker fire. Let's go ahead and have some fun with it.

Some people say to replace the sear with an ortho band or what have you, but the fact is that these replacements can often break. You don't want a break in the middle of a game to leave you shuddering behind a bunker waiting to get barrel tagged, do you? Let's just stick with the stock one and 'modify' it a little bit instead.

This is the one part where you can actually screw up your sear spring if you aren't careful. If you do, you're going to have to buy a new one. This shouldn't happen if you follow the instructions... so just be good.

--> Take the sear spring off of the sear.
--> Take a pair or two of plyers and attach each loop inside them
--> Pull... just a little bit.
--> Put sear spring back into normal position
--> Put reciever half onto gun, cock, fire



Alternative - especially if your sear spring is too stretched



If you don't pull too much, you'll see a difference. The more times you do this the less of a pull you'll get. So long as you're careful and take your time in stretching the spring, you should get an idea of when too much is just enough (har har). Just take it one step and a little bit at a time.

When you're done, put everything back in place and put the gun back together. Voila! Gas it up and get it going! You'll be amazed how less than fifteen minutes can so drastically increase your rate of fire.

With some fine tuning, a double trigger, and a springkit you can create a mechanical 98 walkable.

Here's the quick video of my Tippmann - 100% stock and with a single trigger.


Right Click and press "save target as" please

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1128201
Magnet/Sear mod done by Prea


-Therealmr
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Last edited by therealmr : 11-26-2005 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:58 PM #5
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yo for the spring all the way to the left should i try to get a new spring with more or less tension??
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Old 05-31-2005, 01:39 PM #6
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therealmr,
Fantastic Info! Thanks for pointing all this out.
I'm sure it will help many new players thinking about the 98.
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:02 AM #7
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Not mine, but useful and therefore hosted and posted
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