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Old 02-20-2005, 01:50 PM #1
Everlight389
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How to build an autococker thread

How to build your own custom autococker

I hate this part, but I have to put it in. I am putting my trust in the readers to use caution and common sense while assembling these markers/parts, and I am not liable for any damage you may cause to yourself or others by not having your regulators set right, and having hoses blow off, resulting in you being startled and throwing your marker into your 55-gallon fishtank, causing a massive spill. Nobody else on these forums are responsible either, it's your own fault if something goes wrong. And by reading this article you agree to the above terms.


With that little piece being said, here's the article:

First, understand that there are a fair amout of tools and tweaking involved in getting one to work, and this isn't an easy task to complete without patience and taking the time to understand how it works. With that in mind, here are the tools required:

Standard allen wrench set (1/16-3/8'')
Blue loctite
Teflon tape
Cresent wrench (small/medium size, 11/16 for macroline)
Strap wrench
Needlenose pliers
Torx screw tool
Scissors or razorblade
Dental/O-ring picks are also good, but not required
1/4'' 12 point socket wrench (not pictured)
Paintball gun oil (Gold cup, Dye, ect)

Those are the minimum amount of tools. I highly also suggest a valve tool for getting the valve in place and these scissors] for cutting the macroline and 3-way hoses. They are very versatile, sharp, and very, very strong, along with being cheap.



For parts, you need:

A body with standard autococker thread tapping (feedneck as well)
Front block
Front block screw
RAM
LPR
3-way and 3-way rod (barbs if they aren't on already)
Valve (pin, springs, and retaining screw)
Internal screw/nut (not exactly sure what it's actually called)
Hammer (and spring)
IVG
Bolt
Cocking rod
Actuator rod
Pump arm
Trigger frame (and screws)
Barrel
Vertical ASA (and screw)
Regulator (Gauge, if desiered)
Macroline (2 fittings and hose)
ASA (drop forward if desired)
3-way hoses
Ball detent (Depending on the body either one, two, or none)
Beavertail (Required at tournaments)

1. Well, the easy part first. Get the front block and put the screw and o-rings on it and screw the assembly into the body (using a 3/16'' allen wrench). Make sure to put o-rings on both sides! Otherwise you will leak.

2. Take the 3-way and screw it into the front block. Unlike the other parts, it does not have to be ultra tight to work correctly.

3. Teflon tape the LPR and using the cresent wrench screw it in to the front block (lower right slot). Just put it in far enough that it starts to get hard to turn, past that you will risk stripping threads and other problems. Depending on the size of the LPR you are using, you may have to remove the top barb in order to screw it in without running into the 3-way. After you have it screwed in well enough you should blue loctite (just a dab!) the barb and screw it back in.

4. Screw in the RAM using your hands into the front block (upper right side). Aligning the barbs to face the 3-way and LPR are more important than it being very tight. On the bottom of the front block there is a small screw (3/16'' I believe). Unscrew it, put some teflon tape on it and screw it back in (Note: this does not necessarely apply to all front blocks, but if you gas it up and it leaks then it needs to be done)







5. Now the fun part... getting in the valve. Essentially you want to take this assembly

and put it inside the body, with the spring first, followed by the valve pin, and lastly by the valve.

I highly reccomend using the valve tool, as you can damage the internal threads and cause other problems if it is not in correctly. What I did wasn't the greatest idea, and using a valve tool should be a requirement, not a suggestion
If you don't have the tool:

Take the valve spring and drop it into the body, then the valve pin, and make sure that they join together correctly. After that (using a wrench or something long but hard) gently push the valve down the lower tube and into place. Once you have it in place the lower retaining screw should align with the hole in the valve, so teflon tape the lower screw and screw it into place (using a 1/8'' allen wrench), hence its name. Make sure not to screw it in too far otherwise you can have valve pin problems. This takes some time and patience, but it can be done without the tool, but I don't reccomend it (see below). After the valve is in, take the internal screw/nut and screw it in (5/16'' allen). The valve pin should be farther out than the internal screw, so it may be a little difficult to screw in.

This picture was hard to take, but you will see the internal screw and valve pin.



At the time of writing I already had my valve in, and without the tool it is very difficult to get it back out. Looking at the Pbreview picture of the Eclipse valve should give you the general idea of how it's supposed to be.

6. After the valve, the hammer seems easy. Insert the hammer (screw down) into the lower feed tube, the flat side with a small hole in the middle first. With my hammer I had to oil the screw and work it loose before it was turnable, so you may need to use a vice (use rubber inserts to hold it) to loosen it up. Then put in the hammer spring, and the screw in the IVG (3/16'' allen wrench). Refer to the picture below to get the general idea of what the assembly looks like.

Last edited by Everlight389 : 05-26-2005 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 02-20-2005, 01:51 PM #2
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7. After that put on the trigger frame (1/8'' allen wrench)



8. Screw in the pump arm.

9. Screw in the back block (see timing articles for length)

10. Then screw in the cocking rod, and see if they gun cocks. If not, screw in (righty tighty) the hammer screw using a 1/8'' allen wrench through the top hole. About 3-4 complete revolutions should yeild the result of being able to cock the hammer and release it. If you can cock it and are not able to release it, then loosen it a revolution.



11. Take the actuator rod and put it in the trigger frame, and attach the 3-way rod (using a 1/16 allen wrench).



12. Screw in the vertical ASA (1/4'' 12 point socket), followed by the regulator (make sure it has a correct size o-ing) and using a strap wrench tighten it into place.

13. Screw the ASA into the trigger frame, and screw the macroline fitting into it. If you use a drop forward, attach that as well. Normally ASA's use 1/8 inch allen wrenches, but some are different.

Here is a picture for reference:



14. Screw in the macroline fitting into the regulator (using the 11/16 cresent wrench). You may also use a cresent, but be careful not to scratch the regulator in the process.

15. Screw in the ball detent (using a socket or allen wrench, depending on the type)

16. Put the bolt into place (using the pull pin). On my bolt, I had to loctite the rear screw into place to prevent the pull pin and bolt from coming loose. Not all bolts are the same, though. Refer to the above picture if you need to see how it fits into the back block assembly.

17. Attach the 3-way hoses. If you have a typical 3-way, the rear barb (towards the back of the gun) goes to the rear of the RAM, the middle goes to the LPR, the furthest barb goes to the front of the RAM. You may need to widen the ends of the hoses for the size of the barbs on the LPR. You can use either scissors or an exacto-knife to cut them. Shocktech bomb, ANS, and several other types the front and rear barb are reversed, meaning that the rear barb goes to the front of the RAM and the front barb goes to the back. Those crash scissors I listed are perfect for cutting the 3-way hoses and Macroline, providing a good, clean cut with little effort.

18. Adjust the regulators to the lowest possible pressure. With a tickler LPR you unscrew it (left) as much as possible. Make sure the cap is still attached to the actual regulator, otherwise bad things could happen.

19. Time the gun. I suggest doing the cocking rod, back block, and hammer lug adjustment first. Then, put about 10-15 drops of oil in the ASA, cock the gun, and gas it up. Now, realize that wierd things can happen the first time. There may be a leak somewhere that needs fixed, or the 3-way may not be properly timed resulting in air rushing out the 3-way. Just be careful and time the 3-way rod (which takes the longest of any of the adjustments), then gas up the gun, rinse, repeat, until it doesn't leak and cycles normally.

20. Add the barrel, hopper, paintballs, and go have fun!

A couple notes:

I highly suggest the use of a high output HPA tank over co2. Liquid co2 can cause damage to internal seals inside the gun, causing them to freeze and break If you have to use co2 or can't afford HPA, then make sure to get an anti-siphon installed in your co2 tank and to get an on/off valve. That will keep most, if not all, co2 liquid out of your gun. Adding a pair of Palmers stabilizers also helps keep co2 out of the gun. Using co2 correctly is just as good as using HPA, but with the money spent to get a pair of Palmers stabilizers, antisiphon, and on/off you could easily have just bought a cheap HPA tank. With autocockers that use solenoid valves, co2 is not suggested at all.

Also, the sizes of the allen wrench are tenative. In other words, they may or may not apply to all bodies, or may be different than I have listed. If you find that one of the ones I have listed is wrong, please let me know and I will fix it.

Sean McIntyre, 2005. You may copy it, print it, share it, but please don't edit the article or take credit for it.

[/endofarticle]

My Eastern Fox Snake was out, so I took a picture of him with the gun.



Useful links:

The one, the only, timing video. Nice job Joe. Please don't download it excessively to conserve his bandwith link

Special thanks to:

f2f4, for really getting me into paintball, and helping me get my gun working nicely.

Crede777, who tried to keep the gun oil off my Mom's good dining room tablecloth during step 19. Also for buying a paintball gun, so I had an excuse to buy one

My Dad, for having more tools than the average 20 american households combined

My Mom, for not going crazy about me getting oil on her tablecloth

PBNation member Thomas, he helped me correct the first draft

Photobucket for hosting my pictures

And lastly to the moderators/administrators, for keeping this a great resource for people like myself and thousands of other paintballers. Thanks everyone!

Any comments and constructive criticism are always welcome.

Last edited by Everlight389 : 02-24-2005 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 02-20-2005, 01:56 PM #3
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Awesome job!
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Old 02-20-2005, 02:04 PM #4
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Nice job!
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Old 02-20-2005, 02:21 PM #5
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sticky this, great job
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Old 02-20-2005, 02:23 PM #6
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Awsome job CQ should def. sticky this.
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Old 02-20-2005, 02:51 PM #7
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great pics and walk through.sticky this
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Old 02-20-2005, 03:30 PM #8
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Wow! A 2k5er that doesn't suck!

Good job, very nice pictures. I tried to do something like this, but my camera wouldn't focus, so I gave up.
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:18 PM #9
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Thanks, glad you all like it. If you have any suggestions or questions don't hesitate.
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:21 PM #10
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you have got to be the best 2k5'er ever
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:23 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by DeathByBowtie
Good job, very nice pictures. I tried to do something like this, but my camera wouldn't focus, so I gave up.
That's your excuse? Man, you suck.

I'm just too damn lazy. I'm surprised the bunny hasn't made one of these...

There's plenty of guides like this floating around, but this one is nice... It's got headings. Good job.
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:26 PM #12
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damnet 10 minutes back and your already hogging all the threads what are all these second best post whores going to do (not speaking of dbb, dk, and phyco)
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:31 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by dahobo
damnet 10 minutes back and your already hogging all the threads what are all these second best post whores going to do (not speaking of dbb, dk, and phyco)
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:32 PM #14
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Old 02-20-2005, 11:14 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by DeathByBowtie
Good job, very nice pictures. I tried to do something like this, but my camera wouldn't focus, so I gave up.
I thought about doing this as well but realized the work invovled and said **** it before I even started.
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:59 PM #16
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i noticed this great thread falling towards the bottom. Mods should really sticky this. Great job tho man

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Old 02-21-2005, 10:10 PM #17
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If anything, CQ will just have him copy his post(s) and paste them into the FAQ.
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:49 PM #18
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Very Good man
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:50 PM #19
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Now, as many people know, I am an elusive member of this forum, and do not post without just cause, but I have to fix your errors before people find out for themselves. Thus, I have made a list of things wrong in your post.

1) The front block is a 3/16, not a 3/8, as you posted. Allen wrench confusion shall be noted several times.

2) There should be no reason to screw in the ram with a crescent wrench. This is a minor detail, but people could scratch their guns when they can simply use their hands.

3) There is no reason to touch the set screw on the bottom of the front block. I have had a couple front blocks, both WGP and non-WGP, and they seal it perfectly well. There is no reason to fix what is not broken, the manufacturer will use plenty of loctite.

4) Personally, I do not recommend loctiting the valve retaining screw, on the bottom of the gun. If that is screwed in too tight, the screw can make the valve stem stick open, and lead to all kinds of problems.

5) Use a valve tool. The valve jam nut is stainless steel, and will re-thread the body real easy. Without the hole for the valve stem, the allen can become crooked, and the screw will thread wrong. Risking a body is not worth the $5 for the tool.

6) The allen for the valve that the valve tool is made from is 5/16.

7) The allen for the IVG is 3/16.

8) The allen for the timing rod is 1/16.

9) The size of the socket for the ASA (Air Source Adaptor if anyone is curious) is a 12 point 1/4" socket.

10) The o-ring on the in line regulator is not color specific. The color is specific to the material, and I have seen black, blue, and clear used. I assume any color can be used.

11) The wrench for the macro fittings, standard size, is 11/16. Crescent wrenches are bigger in the back then in the front, and this can lead to slop. They work, but I recommend fixed sized wrenches.

12) The 3-way hoses are 3-way and frame specific. You hinted on this, but just to further clarify it goes as such:

2 o-ring/ Slider frame: Front of 3-way to back of ram, back of 3-way to front of ram.

3 o-ring/ Slider frame: Front of 3-way to front of ram, back of 3-way to back of ram.

2 o-ring/ Hinge frame: Front of 3-way to front of ram, back of 3-way to back of ram.

3 o-ring/ Hinge frame: Front of 3-way to back of ram, back of 3-way to front of ram.

13) I do not know what you mean by saying the Tickler cap "will blow off". There should be no pressure going to the cap of the LPR, unless your Tickler is broken. You are correct that this is "not good", and holds true for any LPR.

14) You do not time the ram. The ram is simply an o-ring on a stick in a casing. What you need to do is time the sear drop and the activation of the 3-way. This can be found in many FAQs's and is best summed up with GreenKill's diagram:

|--S---F--A----E|
S = Start of Pull
F = Firing point
A = Activation of 3-way
E = End of pull

15) On the point of CO2 vs. HPA, you need to control C02, not let it control you. An anti-syphon kit and a regulator will allow a cocker to operate just as well on CO2. Personally I suggest the Palmer Stabilizer because it was made to handle CO2. Please note that I do not recommend CO2 on an E-blade, because CO2 can be harmful to the solenoid, from what I understand.

Other than those points, from what I saw the article was fine. Nice pictures, and feel free to insert my advice as you feel. I do not care about credit or anything (as long as you fix the points) as long as the people get the correct information.

Thomas

Edited for spelling error.
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Last edited by Tminus65 : 02-21-2005 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:53 PM #20
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Hmm... I was gonna get around to reading it sooner or later.. I'll read the building post tomorrow during school. lol
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Old 02-22-2005, 04:10 PM #21
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Ok, will edit.

3) As mine actually leaked pretty badly when I first gassed it up, even though it was screwed in tight. I will mention that you do not "have" to do it, but if it leaks from there it is a good idea.

4) For the valve-retaining screw maybe teflon tape would be a better suggestion... nice catch.

13) Was more of a joke than an actual reality, hoses blow off more often.


Thanks Thomas
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