Hey guys and gals,
Just wanted to mention my experience few days ago at cousins field. I have a Proto Slg with ultra-light trigger, 14" pro barrel (was like $29), madd doggs clamping feed neck.. I noticed when I shoot the balls are starting to curve badly. I was thinking of getting a stiffi 16" barrel or 14" but not shure..also im not shure what a good bore size would be. People say .690 ish or like .688 but what you you think is best and what do you all use.
For christmas I was thinking of getting:
Dye rotor? can i still use that on slg or is that too fast of a hopper for my gun
also a new bolt...and new eyes
I called my local arena they said they use 68 caliber... so does that mean I can get a .680 barrel? Maby my barrel is too over bored so thats why my balls curve? I already have a $75 empire reloder hopper so my hopper is fine ...
well, It's common sence to me. If you have a crappy proto alum barrel with a large bore..and are rapid firing the bore has more play inside the barrel due to the large bore....leading it to curve..if you use a size .680 paintball and shoot out of a .685 barrel or w/e it would be better......any suggestions on bore size for a barrel
Let me say it again. Bore size dosent matter. I usually shoot with a .679" now..which is smaller than most paints. It shoots the same as when I use a .693" barrel. It shoots the same as when I bore match.
And paint varies..Ive seen paint as small as .677" and as big as .694". The only thing your barrel bore will change is your consistency. Accuracy is 99.99% paint dependent.
And a tube is a tube. a "crappy proto alum barrel" will shoot the same as a $150 Carbon Fiber Ultralite..or anything in between.
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I am sick of dealing with ****ing idiots, so I will no longer use the PbNation BST system!
kinda a dumb question but i gotta ask .. did you break a ball and not clean the barrrel? it sounds like this is your first time with this problem so i had to ask
The only thing your barrel bore will change is your consistency. Accuracy is 99.99% paint dependent.
Actually, you're bore won't really change your consistency that significantly. It's much more the variability in paint size that will affect your consistency. Boring can help with efficiency and underboring may help you get a little more efficiency (and slightly more consistency), but if all you're paint was the EXACT same size and perfectly shaped, bore would have zero affect on consistency. If anything though, this only furthers your argument that accuracy is 99.99% paint dependent.
One could argue that regulator/solenoid consistency is also important to garner FPS consistency (which DOES affect accuracy on a vertical axis)
To stay on topic, paint curving that badly implies some sort of spin/drag being imparted on the ball, which to me sounds like you broke some paint in the barrel or you were shooting some horribly out of round paint, not anything wrong with your set up.
Actually, you're bore won't really change your consistency that significantly. It's much more the variability in paint size that will affect your consistency. Boring can help with efficiency and underboring may help you get a little more efficiency (and slightly more consistency), but if all you're paint was the EXACT same size and perfectly shaped, bore would have zero affect on consistency. If anything though, this only furthers your argument that accuracy is 99.99% paint dependent.
One could argue that regulator/solenoid consistency is also important to garner FPS consistency (which DOES affect accuracy on a vertical axis)
To stay on topic, paint curving that badly implies some sort of spin/drag being imparted on the ball, which to me sounds like you broke some paint in the barrel or you were shooting some horribly out of round paint, not anything wrong with your set up.
Bore matching has been known to cause hell for consistency, because of the variations in paint size.
Underboring has been proven to help consistency, because there is no extra room for air to escape.
Overboring has also shown to help consistency, just because there is extra air escaping, but approximately the same amount all the time.
The science crew on the other site has more information about this..but I did my own testing and thats what I found.
__________________
I am sick of dealing with ****ing idiots, so I will no longer use the PbNation BST system!
We're not disagreeing, we're just attributing the effects to opposite sides. All of those factors are because of paint size variability. The under/over/match boring may compensate somewhat, but what we really need is perfectly and consistently round paint. I completely agree with the facts as you stated them.
We're not disagreeing, we're just attributing the effects to opposite sides. All of those factors are because of paint size variability. The under/over/match boring may compensate somewhat, but what we really need is perfectly and consistently round paint. I completely agree with the facts as you stated them.
That's what I figured..i was thinking science and if you have a metal tube with a .695 bore and paintballs that are .680 theres more play..if you get a better made barrel with .680 bore its more accurate...also the stiffi say you can shoot a barrel break out also one reason im interested..why cant you use a big squeeege with those barrels
Seriously..if we could get some .689" paint that is consistently in size and roundness we'd be set. Unfortunately..paint is now moving into the .67x range..
__________________
I am sick of dealing with ****ing idiots, so I will no longer use the PbNation BST system!
That's what I figured..i was thinking science and if you have a metal tube with a .695 bore and paintballs that are .680 theres more play..if you get a better made barrel with .680 bore its more accurate...also the stiffi say you can shoot a barrel break out also one reason im interested..why cant you use a big squeeege with those barrels
Jesus youre not reading.
Dont buy another barrel. It will not help your accuracy.
__________________
I am sick of dealing with ****ing idiots, so I will no longer use the PbNation BST system!
