well as it says,
i got a superbolt for free a while back. it kinda worked, and i hated how it looked.
well not so long after that i .... inherited... a bunch of free cocker parts that a shop was gonna throw away cus they "wouldnt sell"
i sent it off to have some stuff milled off the body and swapped out the trigger since i loved the thin frame.
i bought some stuff for it because i wanted to e/blade it
aka LPR
belsales ram and qevs
WGP 15degree mini front block.
while i was looking for an eblade setup to buy i came across a "broken" AIM swift body with a blue E2 on it that apperently didnt work. it was being sold by an auction company for the owner. after reading the description of the problem i bought the marker for $225, adjusted the timing, cleaned the ram, and put on a new reg now it works great
i put the front block together and... it wouldnt go on the gun.. the slot in the back of the block was shaped different from the front of the SB body.
so.. after milling the body heres what ive got so far
PB superbolt - free
-milled ~$100 total
Belsales 3 - way - free
trigger from different frame - free
shocktech roller sear - free
shocktech spring kit - free
KAPP seal kit + cup seal - free
WGP ram - kinda free (came with AIM Body)
WGP reg - kinda free (came with AIM Body)
Emipre Grips - $15
timing rod made from coat hanger - free
things id like to get...
feed neck...
aka cocking rod
new timing/actuating rod, coathanger is kinda getto...
if i like it enough i may get a better set of internals and polish the part of the sear that contacts the set screw in the hammer
get my wgp front block milled to fit and weigh less.
also, if anyone could point me to a good place to pick up cocker stuff, please do..
complusive is my usual source
I thought you said you had milling done on the body? these look sexy half blocked (unlike most cockers). You cant use a different bolt without a different backblock anyways so theres no reason not half it. it'll take any cocker threaded feedneck, I have a ccm no pro on mine, it clamps good but it scares me cause theres hardly anything grabbing the hopper.
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WPI class of '12 ME
Team Captain: WPI Engineers Paintball"Originally posted by xsport37: so, what have we covered today kids?
Politics, Religion, Philosophy, Quantum physics, Mixed drink recepies"
i had that ugly sight rail thing milled off the top. as well as from under the feedneck.
i like the p-block, body and bolt as they are..
i know about ccm no pros, and no rises, ill probably go for a FBM press in if they will still do it.
as far as half blocking, i wanted to keep the twist lock setup.
im sitting here now thinking that i should put the AKA LPR and Belsales ram/qevs on it. but that would take away from the .. it didnt cost me much... feeling
its not a press fit feed neck. the neck is a 2 piece. the bottom is held on a with a screw and theres no off the shelf replacement, the top is replaceable with any cocker threaded feedneck.
of course looking at you new pictures, its obvious that at least the machine shop knew the feedneck was held in with a torx head screw.
__________________
WPI class of '12 ME
Team Captain: WPI Engineers Paintball"Originally posted by xsport37: so, what have we covered today kids?
Politics, Religion, Philosophy, Quantum physics, Mixed drink recepies"
FBM will mod a press fit spyder feedneck and put it right in there..
kind of like what DeathOfAllThings did to his see it here
im assuming they just cut the detent and tube notches in the spyder neck and use the set screw to hold it in place...
__________________
WPI class of '12 ME
Team Captain: WPI Engineers Paintball"Originally posted by xsport37: so, what have we covered today kids?
Politics, Religion, Philosophy, Quantum physics, Mixed drink recepies"
FBM will mod a press fit spyder feedneck and put it right in there..
kind of like what DeathOfAllThings did to his see it here
im assuming they just cut the detent and tube notches in the spyder neck and use the set screw to hold it in place...
Does FBM still have crap service? Last time I bought anything from them I had to threaten legal action before they sent me what I ordered. I wouldn't have gone that far but they took my money out intentionally and never even TOLD me that they didn't have the item in stock then tried to play it off like nothing. Turns out they had it in stock the whole time anyway and knew it... It was a HORRIBLE company to deal with.
Just out of curiosity, why did you want to change out the feedneck? I quite like mine, it keeps the hopper in there real snug.
The one thing on there you gotta change is the bolt. Sanchez Machine makes a good Derlin bolt for superbolts. If you're looking to be thrifty, swap the backblock out and use any old derlin bolt you can find, post 2k of course. Sanchez Machine
dude, you put the vasa on backwards the reg is supposed to be angle the other way.
__________________
WPI class of '12 ME
Team Captain: WPI Engineers Paintball"Originally posted by xsport37: so, what have we covered today kids?
Politics, Religion, Philosophy, Quantum physics, Mixed drink recepies"
yeah man, thats what you have to do when you use a 45/45.
__________________
WPI class of '12 ME
Team Captain: WPI Engineers Paintball"Originally posted by xsport37: so, what have we covered today kids?
Politics, Religion, Philosophy, Quantum physics, Mixed drink recepies"
i need a new front block for my superbolt. does anyone know if you have to modify a regular autococker front block like you do the 15* one?
brand and link would be helpful. also, its REALLY not difficult to mod the 15* block. it literally took me 5 minutes and a file and i am the ultimate n00b.
Last edited by ngleichman : 11-07-2009 at 10:22 PM.
thanks again for comments.
i need to take pics since i put the ram and LPR on it. and i will very soon..
im saving money, i want to mill that 15degree block some too. otherwise id have just dremeld it lol.. but right now all my paintball funds are going into my EVM so ill just stick with the factory front block...
that said, i guess im gonna sell my eblade and other cocker. im pretty happy with this one, and im building an EVM so no need for electronic cocker.. at least not for me... plus that would be good evil m money.