My A1 Fly is kicking more than I'd like and it's a bit louder than I would prefer. How would I go about fixing it, even if i had to substitute efficiency (not consistency).
if that is still too much kick, you can try getting a nylon hammer.
I don't have a gauge for either my lpr or hpr, making this very difficult, but I was just told the 6.5 dwell I had it on was part of my problem, so I put it down to 5.5ms.
I'll do my best to ball-park the other two and just get it shooting as best as possible without drop-off or shoot-down.
The new bolt makes the marker more efficient, allowing you to further reduce the LPR and HPR while maintaining velocity, so you can have even less kick.
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The new bolt makes the marker more efficient, allowing you to further reduce the LPR and HPR while maintaining velocity, so you can have even less kick.
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If it's really kickin' there is a good chance your pressures are off. I would get the LPR gauge from one of the Master Techs. Set the LPR to 50-55 psi & the HPR to chrono.
Also, the higher the dwell the less kick because it cycles more gradually. It also makes the gun quieter. I doubt you will notice much of a difference in efficiency with a dwell of 6.5 ms as opposed to 5.5 ms.
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If it's really kickin' there is a good chance your pressures are off. I would get the LPR gauge from one of the Master Techs. Set the LPR to 50-55 psi & the HPR to chrono.
Also, the higher the dwell the less kick because it cycles more gradually. It also makes the gun quieter. I doubt you will notice much of a difference in efficiency with a dwell of 6.5 ms as opposed to 5.5 ms.
I'll gladly accept an LPR tester from anybody willing to led one.
My other really big issue is consistency. It was literally +-35. I know it isn't the regulator either. Just had it teched and lubed. I just assumed it was the dwell, but it was at 6.5, and I've been told so many different things.
hmm... could be lpr needs servicing. i usually take some steel wool to the lpr piston and the lpr piston and polish it up some (just till it's shiny). helps with the recharge for both hpr and lpr.
could be the paint... try using the smallest bore?
could be the cup seal or ram going bad...
could be your pressures... only way to tell is to use both hpr and lpr gauges.
do you have another reg you can swap in on your A1 Fly? Just to eliminate the stock reg from the equation?
just remember to start low and then turn the pressure up to your normal shooting fps. if your reg outputs too much pressure into the gun, you risk separating the cup seal.
do me a favor. open your right grip up (battery side) and air up the gun. take a shot or 2. then put your ear right wear the solenoid wires travel up. listen for a small leak. If you hear it, it is the small lpr piston o-ring making it leak thus probably in a creeping lpr. i find that the small lpr o-ring gets nicked up from taking the piston in/out for lubing and shim changes.
also you can always just take a shim out one by one until velocity decreases/drop off and then put a shim back in. (VERY general/basic way to do it)
Hey if you want to come play paintball up in Orlando one weekend I can bring my gauges and we can get that squared away. I actually am leaving for the navy in about three weeks and I am leaving my current job next week so if you are going to be in the Orlando area I'll have some time, I can help you out, let me know.
Hey if you want to come play paintball up in Orlando one weekend I can bring my gauges and we can get that squared away. I actually am leaving for the navy in about three weeks and I am leaving my current job next week so if you are going to be in the Orlando area I'll have some time, I can help you out, let me know.
Sounds like a date.
I really appreciate the offer and I'll let you know if I can
So the manual said that to adjust the lpr, I just add/remove shims. So could somebody tell me how many shims i should have to obtain the desired psi (50ish?) PG. 20
Also, the manual in the link above says I should have modes that I don't have, like PSP, CFOA, Millennium, etc.
I also can't get this thing to ramp. When I first got it (and read the manual) it looks like it's one of the easiest, most customizable ways to program a ramp setting, yet none of my settings seem to make it actually ramp. (Tournament lock is OFF, I checked).
Software Version - 2:7
Is this software outdated?
Thanks guys!
Last edited by freakspazzatazz : 10-16-2009 at 01:25 AM.
no that is the updated software which is why you aren't seeing those modes, that was on 2.2. The amount of shims needed to be added or removed to obtain a certain pressure varies from marker to marker.
Ok for ramping, put your marker on custom mode, go to semi + SR. Select ramping, go to the ramping selection, select soft soft ramping, if you want it easy set the modes to their lowest settings.
Man you got to come to a field so I can mess with your angel.
no that is the updated software which is why you aren't seeing those modes, that was on 2.2. The amount of shims needed to be added or removed to obtain a certain pressure varies from marker to marker.
Ok for ramping, put your marker on custom mode, go to semi + SR. Select ramping, go to the ramping selection, select soft soft ramping, if you want it easy set the modes to their lowest settings.
Man you got to come to a field so I can mess with your angel.
I might just do that a week from tomorrow. I'll see how things go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnebago
soft ramping adds 2 shots. hard ramping adds 3. So for psp10, you would choose hard ramping.
and you can't ramp with eyes off (ie: dry firing). need to use paint.
