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Old 08-11-2014, 06:43 PM #1
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Need rotor help video inside Please help out

I have a rotor and have had it for a couple years now. Never had any issues until of course a tournament. I put a new motor in it because I thought that was the issue it was not. Of course, I put nice new batteries in it (tested with a volt meter). The rotor will stop as it should when the stack tension is high. However, it will not restart when the stack starts moving again. If I turn the tension any higher I'm afraid I will start turning the rotor into a blender. Also, I did not note it in the video but the light goes out when the rotor stops. Is that normal? I don't have another rotor around to see.

Dying rotor video

Another rotor motor video
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Old 08-12-2014, 05:40 AM #2
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I have been dealing with this VERY SAME ISSUE for the last week with one of mine.
Because I have two, I was able to swap "known good parts" into the troubled one. I deduced it to be a board issue. Replaced it to find out it wasnt.
Ive adjusted spring tension from one end of the spectrum to the other with no change.
Tried the homegrown mods Ive read on here. Nothing seems to fixed it for sure.
One thing I do know for sure... and maybe you can confirm this is your issue as well, but it is NOT a PAINT JAM ISSUE, but instead a mechanical FEEDING ISSUE??
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Old 08-12-2014, 05:43 AM #3
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I actually just watched your video... so yes, it is a feeding/ re-start issue. Same as I'm experiencing.
I called Dye yesterday, still waiting to hear back from their "Tech who is at lunch right now"
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:46 AM #4
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Honestly, I never had an issue before. My son has had is rotor for years also without issue. I would think that most of the people having "jamming" issues are not having jamming issues but rather the same issue we have. For whatever reason the thing just doesn't want to restart. However, I see how the thinking of a jam makes sense because when you pull the fin the rotor will restart most of the time. I have no clue what to do next other than bag the rotor and call it a day.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:05 AM #5
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And I'll assume, that when it doesnt restart, pulling back on the fin does nothing, as the mechanically arm inside is already stuck in the "rear" position, hence making the shark fin useless in solving the issue?

Thats how I know for sure its not a "paint jamming" issue, but rather a "re-start" issue
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:12 AM #6
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As Ive tried diagnosing mine, thats the situation happening. Just feeding it back into a paint caddy, and using my thumb over the feed tube to simulate a loaded breach... even done it with the Top Cover off to verify it is, in fact, NOT A PAINT JAM.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:18 AM #7
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Same here. Sometimes pulling the fin will restart the loader but most of the time does nothing.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:58 AM #8
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Ok, so no answers? This is obviously a BIG issue with the rotor and has been for years now. Has nobody found a solution to this problem? As for some of the older post I have read the "seed" is not a solution to the real issue. My rotors have never given me problems until this crap. I mean crap in a HUGE way. Nothing like being in the middle of a tournament playing for cash and you hopper takes a HUGE DUMP on you. My video CLEARLY shows this is not a jamming issue but a restarting issue. Two different motors different batteries and the same issue. Must be a board issue. $25 for a freaking board on a $80 hopper is stupid! Dye should replace these as this is OBVIOUSLY a massive flaw to almost every rotor ever made. Just pissed because I love my rotor and do not want to have to use something different but if dye is just going to look at us all cross eyed and give us the middle finger I will switch.
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:24 AM #9
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I bought a Virtue board ($60) after I drove an hour to the store that said they had one in stock, only to realize they didnt have an OEM, only Virtue.
Regardless, the new board did nothing to fix the issue.
Im leaning towards possibly a worn out spring inside the gearbox, or simply a matter of worn out plastic parts in the rotor carousel. I donnu... theres not much else it could be.
Would LOVE for a Dye tech to chime in here
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:43 AM #10
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Ok... I just got off the phone with Dye Tech Support. In leiu of a failed board (mine being brand new and not fixing the issue), this is what he said to try,

" remove the circuit board from the gearbox. turn it over and locate the switch that rides along the racking lever (white flat arm).
CAREFULLY move the switch towards the prongs so the switch arm is further away from the white lever (thus causing the switch to activate sooner). Just be careful not to break the electrical prongs in the process."

"Also, make sure the tension spring is adjust properly... 1 turn IN from flush with gearbox housing."

Dye Tech Support phone # 858-536-5183, if you want to contect them yourself
I will try this when I get home tonight and post my results.
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:44 AM #11
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Thanks man! Another video coming of just the motor.
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:20 PM #12
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Sorry to hear you guys are having an issue, but kudos for figuring out it seems to be a NEW problem.

Sorry I cannot be of any help but please post your results.
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Old 08-12-2014, 02:47 PM #13
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Another rotor motor video Am I missing something simple?
Also, in the first post!!!!
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:08 AM #14
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Ok, so I got home last night, filled my kitchen table with Rotor parts, tools, and paint and did some more digging.
I set the tension spring to "stock" as per guided by the Dye tech.
I took my original board and carefully adjusted the switch "away from the racking lever arm", and installed it in the hopper.

dramatically worse than it was the previous night.
Aimeagle21, my OEM board was starting slow just as yours was in your video.
I then moved the switch CLOSER to the racking arm, and that seemed to help in the "re-starting' issue... but the hopper seemed like the batteries were dead the way it restarted REAL SLOW.

(Perhaps I heard the Tech wrong. I thought he said move it closer to the electrical pins. But the improvement came when I moved it closer to the ARM. Which would actually engage the switch earlier.)

So i took the new Virtue board and moved the switch closer to the racking lever, then installed that.
Much improvement... almost useable actually. No more motor drag, and the one time it did fail to "re-start", I was able to "rack" the shark fin and it immediately starting feeding correctly again.
I suspect I need to fine tune the switch position a tad more.
But sadly, Aimeagle21, I also suspect you may have a faulty board in yours as well. My old board did what yours does. My new board did not. (same batteries)

Hope this helps. I think Im right on the cusp of getting this worked out
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:12 AM #15
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Thanks man!! Have to grab a board today I hope local shop has it.
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:14 AM #16
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Any update? I did NOT get a chance to play with mine any further last night
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:27 AM #17
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Went to get a board local and they wanted $50 for the stock replacement so I passed.

I did put the rotor back together and just did some drops using my finger to stop the ball stack and it took right back off again and again. Haven't put it on a gun yet.
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:09 AM #18
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So... got back into mine last night. Happy to report I think I licked the problem.
Being a proponent of Lithium batteries, I did take my Duracell Procells out and installed the Lithiums. even thought the Duracells tested good, I wanted the Lithiums in there to erase any shadow of doubt.
There was a noticeable change in how robust the motor sounded with the Lithiums in there.
After researching some videos on adjusting the cheese gear tension (white gear), I started with mine 1 turn in as per Dye. I also learned that despite the Dye Tech telling me this was the "Stock Setting", more than one person told me that new ones leave the factory set at 4 TURNS in( Basically, FULL tension).
So thats where I set mine to. ( The change in tension on the cheese geear seems to be only slight throughout the adjustment span)

Drop tested countless pods through it, using my finger to simulate breach loading in random intervals.
Never failed to re-start feeding, and didnt blend any paint.
(I should note, I am testing with valken fate practice paint, so the true test will be with GI 4-Star paint we shoot at tourneys).

*Disclaimer... having a Virtue board installed, I did notice the Virtue doesnt run continuously when the hopper is empty, but cycles in 1 second On/Off intervals until it senses paint loaded. When this occurs, it is necassary to rack the fin to re-set the board matrix, or it will continue to cycle paint intermittently.
As this is my first encounter with Virtue's Rotor board, I have to look at their board's manual and see if this is a parameter that can be changed (the board is fully programmable/ upgradeable).

But for all intents and purposes, it appears mine is working again to the point it is useable. This Sunday will be the true test.

I know you said your local shop wanted $50 for an OEM board. I paid $60 for the Virtue. But I know Paintballgateway.com had the OEM for $25.
Hope this helps.
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:10 AM #19
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Thanks for the input. I will look at the fun activation point but I don't see that being an issue. I use the energizer lithium batteries also. Been out of town for a few days and havent touched it. I have done drop tests while stopping the rotor with my hand as well. No issues in the house as it always starts right up. Need more paint to actually shoot outside.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:01 AM #20
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http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=4045383

There is also some (maybe) useful info here about the carousel gears and motor.
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Old 08-26-2014, 04:54 PM #21
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Idk if you guys have found a solution yet, but it sounds like the sliding gear (is that called a cheese gear?) is jamming up. You can try pulling the battery pack off the gearbox and see if the sliding gear is moving freely.
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