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Old 08-07-2014, 11:29 AM #22
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I used a squeegy lol. But does anybody know what paint averages around .689 then?
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:47 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zac217 View Post
I used a squeegy lol. But does anybody know what paint averages around .689 then?
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=916326

granted atmospheric conditions will make them vary
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:42 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpt_crunch View Post
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=916326

granted atmospheric conditions will make them vary
Old source is old.

I doubt you will find a lot of paint that big anymore.

Buy a ball sizer thing, check the size of the paint you play with over the course of a few outings, then pick up a couple bore sizes based on your findings.
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:09 PM #25
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Old source is old.

I doubt you will find a lot of paint that big anymore.

Buy a ball sizer thing, check the size of the paint you play with over the course of a few outings, then pick up a couple bore sizes based on your findings.
Yeah, that's super-old.
Most paint I see today from Valken, GI, RP, etc. is below .680, a lot of it around .677
Very rarely have I run across paint that's any bigger than .684
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:59 AM #26
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I shoot Valken Redemption and end up using .679; .682; and .684" inserts. I do not even bring .689" or larger to the field anymore.
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:15 AM #27
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Your having issues with .689 bore with old paint. Likely that paint absorb a bit of moisture and grew in size.

Use fresh paint, i never experience any field paint in NY(cousins,hivi,PSI, and liberty) that had issues with .689. I used a stock Axe barrel and .685 dye CF. Never had an issue with ball breaks in the barrel with the .685

If i had any breaks is because the paint was weak from the start. I had a few field paint from liberty (gi sport field grade, probably 1 or 2 star equiv) The paintball shell was inconsistent. A few of them, had like a circle dot, about the size of a bolded period . where it was only half a shell thickness. They actually broke in rotor rather, left a mess But no barrel breaks.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:59 PM #28
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if you getting inserts get .682 .685 and a .687 thats what my most common inserts are
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:30 PM #29
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Is getting inserts the same as a new barrel? Whats the advantage of getting a whole different, rather than getting inserts?
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:15 PM #30
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If you are going to use inserts you will need a barrel that can accept them or you can go with different bore size barrels or go with two piece barrels where you only replace the backs. Take a look at Lurker Eigenbarrels for the last option, relatively cheap.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:09 AM #31
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If you are going to use inserts you will need a barrel that can accept them or you can go with different bore size barrels or go with two piece barrels where you only replace the backs. Take a look at Lurker Eigenbarrels for the last option, relatively cheap.
Those look good, i was checking them out. One question, if i buy the 2 piece barrel, and i got for instance .689 then bought a .680 back, that would make it a .680 right? The only part of the barrel thats .689 is the back right? So i wouldn't have 2 different sizes. And then what is the front for? Wouldn't that drop the ball into it? If the ball just stayed in place in the back, it seems like the front would be useless.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:58 AM #32
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:57 AM #33
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^^^^ Nice video, sums it up well. My take is the front part of the barrel still holds air pressure so is still pushing the ball through it but becomes a case of diminishing returns. It think it would be nice to have a bit longer bore than a 2 piece but longer bore too becomes a case of diminishing returns. Fact is we are dealing with very tiny fractional differences that you will probably never notice and may not even exist with all variables in the paintball itself. You will be happy with most 2 piece set ups, freaks, or assorted barrel sizes. I have CP single piece barrels but am moving to Eigenbarrel 2 piece because I like the lighter weight and better porting plus Lurker is making an Apex2 adaptor which should be reasonably priced.
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:25 AM #34
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Soooo. Watching that video.. You dont want the ball to be the same size as the bore... I think he starts talking about it at 7:40. So any barrel will work pretty much..
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:31 AM #35
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Yes, about any barrel will work, but air efficiency will change. We have seen over bore, under bore, and bore matching over the years. There is a bit of trend of late to under bore and there is some evidence that suggests that it may have a slight advantage. Don't over think it, there are other things that will make a much bigger difference.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:34 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prone2wander View Post
^^^^ Nice video, sums it up well. My take is the front part of the barrel still holds air pressure so is still pushing the ball through it but becomes a case of diminishing returns. It think it would be nice to have a bit longer bore than a 2 piece but longer bore too becomes a case of diminishing returns.
Not quite. You'll note the end of the barrel has small holes drilled in it called porting. This porting is designed to release air pressure behind the ball and thus quiet the shot. Once your ball reaches these ports, there is NO air pushing the ball forward.

Generally speaking a ball leaving a 12-14" barrel at 280-300 Feet Per Second (FPS) stops accelerating after the first 8" of barrel length. The length of the barrel beyond that allows the ball to stabilize a bit from the acceleration and serves a bit as a guide to direct it to whatever it is you're aiming at.

Usually barrels work best at between 10" and 14" with the difference in performance between the two lengths being subtle at best. The longer the barrel though, the quieter your shot and the greater the amount of air is required to get the ball to leave the barrel at the appropriate velocity as a longer barrel results in the ball spending more time in the barrel and thus being subjected to the friction that the barrel places on the ball slowing it down for a longer amount of time.

As Prone mentioned though, matching paint can be more of an art than a science and valid arguments exist for each method. Quality of paint is your biggest factor even when it comes to paint to bore matching. Consistant size and shape is always better.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:36 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zac217 View Post
Soooo. Watching that video.. You dont want the ball to be the same size as the bore... I think he starts talking about it at 7:40. So any barrel will work pretty much..
Personal experience has show me that bore matching or slight under boring will result in a "better" (avoiding the technical definitions of accuracy, precision, and consistency) shot. This become more tru when shooting a gun that relies on back pressure (like the Mini or Axe), and shooting paint that is less than ideal (dimples).

I cannot explain the science behind it, but I am happier with how the paint flies when I match or under bore, opposed to over bore.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:44 PM #38
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Personally, I'd go for a bigger barrel. I usually will run with a .689 in the summer, and a .686 in the winter. It is always better to over-size your barrel than to get one too small.
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