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Old 06-05-2014, 06:12 AM #22
Travis1581
 
 
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Originally Posted by Enfamous13 View Post
Pmr UL frame. Notice there is a thin slit in the back to fit the solenoid.
Just to be sure, your talking about a thin slit near the bolt on the rear of the frame? Running perpendicular to the body of the marker?

Im also slightly confused about what boards will work. I have read somewhere that some spool valve marker boards will work. Is this true?
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:45 AM #23
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I would use a very small board. Nothing large will work.

Cyborg/Droid '06/'07 LED boards are very small. I'm using the bluefork set up mentioned above. You still need to mill an eye wire channel into the bluefork frame where the connector addition is added to mount the frame.

The DNA boards from Curt on inceptionforums is probably the best choice, but they aren't finished and he went MIA due to some new job he got.

The scenario Dreams T-Board will also work, as it's very small. Has a lot of wires though, especially when mushed into a PMR UL frame.

You can use an infinity legend frame with a legend board I believe as well.

You can also use a Quest frame/board combo.

Either way, that's about that. Other custom milled frames have used OLED Tadao boards, but I would stay far far away from those as the screens burn out.

I have the link saved somewhere with detailed pictures of A-Tach-One and what he went through to make the PMR frame fit the solenoid/board. I'll send it over to you if I can find it.

Edit: http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=4320&page=11

There's the link. He shows the steps and details what you need to do to a PMR UL frame to make it work.
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:48 AM #24
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Phaelynar - Thanks for the link! I remember seeing that somewhere but I couldn't recall on what forum. That will help a lot!

Other than physically fitting into a frame, what are the requirements for a board?
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:35 AM #25
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Quote:
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Other than physically fitting into a frame, what are the requirements for a board?
I think most boards will work. It's the fitting that's the problem without a custom frame or a frame without a tray.

Small functional boards like the T board/Cyborg boards are really your best options. They are also not very expensive either.

If Curt ever finishes the DNA board and can use a OLED screen that won't burn out, it will trump all the other options.
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:05 PM #26
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I didnt finish what i had planned this week. However, i did manage to secure a license for solifworks at home. No more staying late at work!
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:45 PM #27
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I am still liking the first one, just looks much cleaner.

On the second design, leave the lines on the top tube, take the ones on the bottom tube out and put the aka logo there or put the aka logo on the front upper tube right before the eye. See what that would look like.
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Old 06-10-2014, 12:08 PM #28
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I just sent the first CAD file to the machinist. Im hoping to have a consultation with him sometime in the next two weeks to see if I can change anything to make his life a little easier.
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Old 06-12-2014, 08:26 AM #29
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Other frame options....

If the 05 ego fits, then a shocker frame will have more space. A ton ton, any nxt, the ccm would be the super cool. Also the ndz speed frame should be a lot easier to find than a bluefork.

You can always get more space with a smaller noid. You are running lp pressures, not even close to a spool requirements. That Parker/Humphrey size can go down to an ego, same hole location.
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:37 PM #30
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Other frame options....

If the 05 ego fits, then a shocker frame will have more space. A ton ton, any nxt, the ccm would be the super cool. Also the ndz speed frame should be a lot easier to find than a bluefork.

You can always get more space with a smaller noid. You are running lp pressures, not even close to a spool requirements. That Parker/Humphrey size can go down to an ego, same hole location.
It would be a travesty to put anything smart parts on this marker...
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:19 PM #31
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the ccm shocker frame will not work. the snatch grip is way too long and its hallow so can't really be cut down.

the noid fit is pretty close though
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:35 PM #32
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It would be a travesty to put anything smart parts on this marker...
I see your point.... true, dat.
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:35 AM #33
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My machinist said he wouldnt be available until the end of the month. So i ordered a 90 degree grip frame to get a couple dimenions from. Im hoping to finish the frame by the time he can do the milling.

I also purchased an armson stealth barrel with spyder threads. Im going to cut it down to 14" and thread it for a cocker. Im also going to tackle the UL frame myself. This hopefully can be done by mid next month
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:57 AM #34
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I just received my Scenario dreams Universal T Board. This thing is a lot smaller than I anticipated! Im looking to fit the board into the UL frame over my vacation early next month. Ill take some photos throughout the process.
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Old 07-05-2014, 08:54 PM #35
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I just received my Scenario dreams Universal T Board. This thing is a lot smaller than I anticipated! Im looking to fit the board into the UL frame over my vacation early next month. Ill take some photos throughout the process.
They fit the UL frame just perfectly (with a little modification of course), and if you do it right, you can even use the stock frame buttons for the membrane pad.

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Old 07-06-2014, 04:27 PM #36
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Thats a great picture! Unfortunately, I my grandfather got rid of his mill so I was not able to work on the UL Frame. Im debating if I should try it with a dremel & file or just see if I can have a machinist take a look at it. I like the adapter you have. Is that a plastic of some sort?

While I wasnt able to do any work on the frame, I was able to learn a little bit about a lathe. I purchased a 16" Armson Stealth barrel w/ spyder threads and turned it down to a 14.25" Autococker barrel. I remember this being on of my favorite barrels as a kid. Even if the barrel turns out to be not quite as good as I remember, it was nice to get a couple hours on the lathe. I was also able to get an idea for the amount of setup time it really requires for something as simple as re-threading a barrel.

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Old 07-06-2014, 05:47 PM #37
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it's nylon, and if you decide to go that route, i still have the CAD file for it, any machinist can reproduce it.

your lathe only have change gears? those are annoying to get set-up.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:04 PM #38
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it's nylon, and if you decide to go that route, i still have the CAD file for it, any machinist can reproduce it.

your lathe only have change gears? those are annoying to get set-up.
I believe so, it seemed like there were three hundred thousand gears on that damn thing. My grandfather has owned it longer than I have been alive (25 years) so Im sure they have gotten a little easier. Most of the time was spent making sure I centered the barrel up on a 4 way chuck.

PM on the way for the CAD model
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:59 PM #39
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Ah yes, nothing induced relaxation like hunting tenths on a indipendent 4 jaw
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:44 PM #40
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Just a thought but you should toss this up in the AKA section as well. Will definitely get some incite from other Evil M builders and just general AKA know-how
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:03 AM #41
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Just a thought but you should toss this up in the AKA section as well. Will definitely get some incite from other Evil M builders and just general AKA know-how
I agree, I just dont want to keep up two different threads. I post in the AKA OT thread every now and again with some updates so I think most of the guys over there are aware of my thread. Would there be a better way to do it other than creating another thread?
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:39 PM #42
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This is the 1/4" tray I made for my evil m project. Going to make another for my dye ul frame whenever it shows up.



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