Find fields & stores near you!
Find fields and stores
Zipcode
PbNation News
PbNation News
Community Focus
Community Focus

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-05-2014, 11:23 PM #1
baller4lif3
Air Force Academy Falcons
 
baller4lif3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
2 karni questions

#1 I am not really good on naming parts on cockers but the part on my karni, seems to be part of the 3-way system (part that says karnivor) and has some sort of electrical component in it jiggles and is relatively loose I believe. It is not affecting performance as far as I know but does seem to be a tad loose. It is the part that the silver rod on the right side of the gun goes into. Do I need to tighten this or is it threaded at all? Or would it be best to leave it be and allow it to wiggle a bit. I think I would have to disconnect the small hoses to tighten it down.


#2 My regulator has the fitting on the rear of it right now but that is only because it has been loosened about a turn to put it there. If the regulator is properly screwed in, the fitting is annoyingly in front of the reg right where my forehand goes. Is this how WGP designed the karni? I am looking at pictures of the karni with the steel hose still attached and it seems the fitting is not in the front of the gun. I don't see how I can have the hole not in front of the gun and the regulator screwed fully in at the same time as well though?



Thanks! Any help is appreciated!
baller4lif3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sponsored Links Remove Advertisement
Advertisement
Old 03-05-2014, 11:35 PM #2
tacxplosion
 
 
tacxplosion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
Quote:
Originally Posted by baller4lif3 View Post
#1 I am not really good on naming parts on cockers but the part on my karni, seems to be part of the 3-way system (part that says karnivor) and has some sort of electrical component in it jiggles and is relatively loose I believe. It is not affecting performance as far as I know but does seem to be a tad loose. It is the part that the silver rod on the right side of the gun goes into. Do I need to tighten this or is it threaded at all? Or would it be best to leave it be and allow it to wiggle a bit. I think I would have to disconnect the small hoses to tighten it down.


#2 My regulator has the fitting on the rear of it right now but that is only because it has been loosened about a turn to put it there. If the regulator is properly screwed in, the fitting is annoyingly in front of the reg right where my forehand goes. Is this how WGP designed the karni? I am looking at pictures of the karni with the steel hose still attached and it seems the fitting is not in the front of the gun. I don't see how I can have the hole not in front of the gun and the regulator screwed fully in at the same time as well though?



Thanks! Any help is appreciated!
#1 sounds like your 3-way o'ring rotted away, that's usually what keeps the 3-way or 'cocking solenoid (in this case) from wiggling around. If it's still there and in good condition, then maybe the thread's out of spec; in which case you could have the collar on the front block drilled and tapped for a set screw to hold the cocking 'noid in place without wiggling (I'd recommend 8-32 threads).

#2 sounds like your adjusting collar is loose, it's meant to keep your HPR aligned. Unscrew the HPR until the fitting is facing slightly to the right side, unscrew the collar until it hits the VASA and then turn both in until it's snug, that should fix it in place.

Last edited by tacxplosion : 03-06-2014 at 06:43 AM.
tacxplosion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2014, 11:39 PM #3
baller4lif3
Air Force Academy Falcons
 
baller4lif3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
For the solenoid, will I have to undo all the 3 way hoses and unscrew the cylinder piece to its left (volumizer I think)? The solenoid doesn't seem like it can be turned into place or be able for me to check for the oring unless I undo the hoses and cylinder piece to its left.
baller4lif3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2014, 11:51 PM #4
MagicDrafna
 
 
MagicDrafna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tigard, OR
your front block has 3 important parts attached to it. your Ram, 3 way/ solenoid, and LPR or low pressure regulator.

as i recall to remove the solenoid you have to completely disassemble your front block. mind you my experience come from an 06 black magic and also keep in mind mine has been in parts for a while i want to get it anno'ed before i reassemble it so i could be wrong about how to get the noid off
MagicDrafna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2014, 06:42 AM #5
tacxplosion
 
 
tacxplosion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
Unfortunately, as MD said, you'll have to take the LPR (cylinder thing to the left when seen from behind) off to be able to unscrew the 'noid cover; and yes, you'll have to take the hoses off at either end.
tacxplosion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2014, 09:36 AM #6
baller4lif3
Air Force Academy Falcons
 
baller4lif3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
I am not terrible at maintenance and believe I can remove these things. However, if I do, will they screw back in like they came out or does this mess with the timing of the marker? Or is this a simple o-ring replacement and replace the 3 pieces back into their respective holes in the front of the main body of the marker? I do NOT know anything about timing and if messing with the 3 way does this please let me know before I do anything!
baller4lif3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2014, 11:02 AM #7
tacxplosion
 
 
tacxplosion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
Ideally you'll want to take the frame off, open the grips, unplug the cocking 'noid, take the LPR's barb off, then take the LPR off (make sure to use the appropriate wrench on the LPR and socket wrench for the barb), then the 'noid cover, replace the o'ring and then reassemble in reverse order.

The good thing is, because it's timed electronically, it'll remain the same; no need to adjust anything once it's back together again. Just be careful not to pinch any wires when reassembling.
tacxplosion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2014, 04:44 PM #8
baller4lif3
Air Force Academy Falcons
 
baller4lif3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Can I not get to the o-ring by taking off the 3way hoses, uncrewing the cylinder piece and then unscrewing the solenoid?
baller4lif3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2014, 04:57 PM #9
tacxplosion
 
 
tacxplosion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
The LPR barb will hit the 'noid cover when you try to unscrew it, you'll need to take that off to be able to remove the LPR.

If you don't want to unplug the 'noid, you can unscrew it from the cover, careful not to loose the gasket (or flip it) or screws, and then unscrew it with the 'noid hanging loose. I'd advise against it, since inadvertently twisting the 'noid along with the cover can lead to broken wires.

Either way, the LPR needs to come off.

If you don't feel comfortable working on the marker, have someone who KNOWS what they're doing do it for you.
tacxplosion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2014, 05:08 PM #10
HolySokz
 
 
HolySokz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: cincinnati
 has been a member for 10 years
HolySokz is playing at Living Legends VI
HolySokz owns a Planet Eclipse Ego
HolySokz supports Empire
Remember to take some heat to remove the lpr because it is red locktited on otherwise you'll just maw the lpr. You'll also have to remove the hose fitting, be careful with that because you don't want to round it off, you also might have to heat it a bit too.
HolySokz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2014, 08:02 PM #11
baller4lif3
Air Force Academy Falcons
 
baller4lif3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
I think I am out of luck when it comes to tightening the solenoid back up. I'll need a pro shop. I have however fixed the regulator. I have seen people put arm (sweatbands) over the three way to protect it or in my case prevent the jiggle. May just do that.
baller4lif3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2014, 09:24 AM #12
cycocivic
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wichita, KS- ICT
 has been a member for 10 years
i would try adding a thick layer of teflon tape around the threads of the solenoid cover. it worked for mine.
cycocivic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2014, 10:55 AM #13
new ion?
Uni Sucks....
 
new ion?'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Victoria, BC
it's actually really, REALLY possible that it just won't thread together cuz the Karni solenoid covers weren't really held to the best spec. I have 2 that won't screw into 3 different front blocks, yet my Worr noid cover and my E2 one will no problems.
__________________
Closed Bolt Ballers

WTB cocker pneus, slider & Karni FB

Jack Wood:
And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
new ion? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2014, 05:45 PM #14
HolySokz
 
 
HolySokz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: cincinnati
 has been a member for 10 years
HolySokz is playing at Living Legends VI
HolySokz owns a Planet Eclipse Ego
HolySokz supports Empire
Your other bet would be just remove the oring that is currently on there, cut or whatever and then with some blue locktite (med strength) or purple (low-strength). Drop some of the exposed threads and rock the noid back and forth to worth the locktite in and just hold it in the position you want for alittle a min or so the just let it dry.
HolySokz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
Forum Jump