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Old 01-28-2014, 10:13 PM #43
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Currently using Hi-tech 9V rechargeable and they have been a trooper for two seasons. Lithion Ion does wonders
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:57 PM #44
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Awesome read, bought some rechargeable 9v 200mAH. Hope they work for my axe, trial n error at this point.
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:57 AM #45
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So I have a question regarding Powerex Batteries:

Amazon lists a rechargeable 9v (9.6v @ 230mAh) and a rechargeable 9v (8.4v @ 300mAh). I'm not yet too witty or understanding of the voltage tolerances of boards but would it be better to go with the high output/lower capacity of the 230mAh or the other way around? I worry about the possibility of frying boards vs possibly running out more frequently.

I wasn't too successful in finding what the actual output of an Energy Paintball 9v special forces battery was (trying to look during work isn't always a good bet) but didn't find anything. Any advice on the numbers above?
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:42 PM #46
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You can probably find the datasheet for Duracell batteries online.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:07 PM #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyronejk View Post
You can probably find the datasheet for Duracell batteries online.
Duracell and the other well known brands like it were easier to find but Energy Paintball was challenging.
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:59 PM #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aarospoon13 View Post
So I have a question regarding Powerex Batteries:

Amazon lists a rechargeable 9v (9.6v @ 230mAh) and a rechargeable 9v (8.4v @ 300mAh). I'm not yet too witty or understanding of the voltage tolerances of boards but would it be better to go with the high output/lower capacity of the 230mAh or the other way around? I worry about the possibility of frying boards vs possibly running out more frequently.

I wasn't too successful in finding what the actual output of an Energy Paintball 9v special forces battery was (trying to look during work isn't always a good bet) but didn't find anything. Any advice on the numbers above?
Also curious. I have some 9.6v s and was wondering whether these are board killers in guns. Worked in a pinokio, but was afraid to put them in a gun.
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Old 11-19-2014, 05:59 PM #49
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It should depend on the board itself and the marker components. For example, even though a solenoid might only be rated for 5v, the board may send the full 9v to the solenoid due to the short time it's sent. Other boards actually send 5v to the solenoid.

With that said, here's my personal take on it: I don't believe using a battery outputting 9.6v will hurt a board more than a 9v battery will. In other words, if 9v is a fine, normal, expected voltage for the device to run at, but 9.6v is too much for the board, IMO, there's a design issue there. I digress... So, the issue comes in when you have a bad charger that ends up charging a battery well past 9.6v (I've seen them go to 11v) or getting a poor battery (I've seen them rated as low as 7.2v). It's ultimately much better for the company to avoid all kinds of issues by just stating "Don't use rechargeable batteries". Then they don't have to worry about actually sending too much voltage and frying something, or not enough and frying / damaging / flat out not working.
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:01 PM #50
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I've used the powerex and blue ebay 9.6v rechargeables for quite a while in my PE and BL markers without issue. I always test the voltage before day of play as rechargeables can go bad. Typically mine range from 9.2-10v.
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Old 01-08-2015, 04:57 PM #51
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Been using EBL 855 Li-ion 600mah rechargeables in my Reloader B2 and Invert Mini, work great. The battery is a little too fat so you have to tighten down the screw holding in the panel alot to get it flat otherwise no complaints.
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:45 PM #52
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I've been using the new energizers and the work great
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:35 AM #53
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Just to throw in a little commentary:

I've been in charge of designing a propulsion system (motor, battery, propeller) for my senior design team's airplane. Due to this (and the AIAA DBF guidelines) I've become fairly well-acquainted with how batteries run.

I'll mainly comment on a few things:

NiMH: These are what I've had many many hours of experience researching down to a dot since AIAA (American Institute of Aeronautics and Astronautics) doesn't allow LiPo batteries for use yet.

1. I've heard that they don't allow as much current output as NiCD but you can get individual cells that output 50 amps continuous and over that much in bursts (only a few seconds) - for a ton of uses you probably won't pull over 50 amps anyways and definitely not paintball lol.

2. These batteries slowly discharge on a curve. What I mean by this is that over time their voltage will drop until a certain point where their resistance will become higher than their available power and the cell will "die." This is based on how quickly the current is drained.

3. Something you should really note on each battery you get is the mAh (milliampere-hour) which is supposed to be an indicator of how long your battery will last if a certain current is applied. However, as noted before, if you start pulling higher currents then this milliampere-hour rating starts becoming less and less.

4. NiMH have a higher energy density than NiCD and no memory effects (as noted on the first page) IMO if you can't -or don't want to- use a LiPo or Lithium Ion then go with these.

General batteries (non-Lithium)

1. The voltage drop is nice if you're looking for a good indicator of your battery life. If you measure your battery voltage and compare it to a fresh battery you'll roughly know how much life you have left. Another good thing to look at is your battery voltage while your hopper/marker/ect is currently running. This will give you an idea of how much your voltage is dropping.

For an example:

I had a home built circuit the other day that I was having some issues with (it would work and then randomly not work). I measured the voltage of one of the two 9 volt batteries I had in it: it read 7 volts. When I turned the circuit on and measured again my battery read 5 volts. Looking at the voltage/amperage curves that Duracell provides: http://ww2.duracell.com/media/en-US/...LR61_US_CT.pdf you can see that at about 6.5 volts the battery dies (the service hours remain constant).

So this means that even though my 9 volts appeared to have some life left, because I was drawing so much current they were actually dying out on me. If I put these in something that drew less current they could probably work for a little while.

2. 9 volt batteries have a good amount of voltage but aren't the best in providing current. The cylindrical cell batteries are much better than this. A good indicator is to look at the "C" rating of a cell and its mAh. You then convert the mAh into Ah (divide by 1000) and multiply by the "C" rating. This will give you your average recommended constant current. For instance an Elite 1500 NiMH cell is 1500 mAh = 1.5 Ah; it's rated at 10C so this means that it will work perfectly fine (won't be damaged) drawing about 15 amps for its entire life span.

For a general rule of thumb: the higher the mAh of a battery, the more current you'll be able to draw for a longer period of time (relative to the same type/brand of battery).

Lithium Batteries:

1. I've heard that Lipos are more dangerous compared to lithium ions. I believe that these are lighter overall though.

2. I believe that I've also read that lithium ion batteries high a higher energy density (more power per weight) -but are heavier. In looking around to replace the Duracells in my home-made circuit I found this: http://www.metaefficient.com/recharg...teries-9v.html and then ordered some of the EBL batteries so we'll see how they go.

3. When it comes (to at least LiPo batteries) they hold their voltage until they die. This is a pro and con. It's good because you don't need to worry about decreased performance: like your marker acting up or your hopper slowing down. However, you now don't have the above issues to indicate that your battery is about the die. So if you're in the middle of a game and suddenly your marker dies you're SOL (hopefully you installed a rip drive on your marker lol).



Finally to conclude: A great place to make (practically the lightest possible -at least for NiMH) battery packs exactly the voltage you want them is: http://cheapbatterypacks.com/customp...ks.aspx?mid=20. They have NiMH, NiCD, and some Lithium cells that you can get stacked in numerous orientations with different wires, connectors, etc.

If you have any questions about any of this feel free to message me! I'm still learning too but if I don't know the answer I'll probably be interested in finding it out myself.
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