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Old 05-14-2013, 02:25 AM #1
kool_aid22
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Thumbs up How to: Build Your Own Shocker

Credits/Resources: ZDSPB.com, PBNation shocker community, Shockerrepair.com (http://shockerrepair.com/ShockerRepair/Home.html), GOG - formerly Smart Parts(http://www.gogpaintball.com/)

Note: Read SFT and NXT shocker manuals before reading this thread if you're unfamiliar with shockers. They include important safety info and FAQ/Troubleshooting info. It will also be much less confusing with the terminology in this thread

NXT MANUAL: http://www.zdspb.com/media/manuals/s...nxt_manual.pdf
SFT MANUAL: http://www.zdspb.com/media/manuals/s...sft_manual.pdf

Tools: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1043428

This is a simple guide to help you build a shocker, one of my personal favorite paintball guns of all time. If maintained, it can be a reliable and awesome gun. You can find an extensive history of the shocker here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...roduction.html

What kind of shocker are you going to build?
Do your research on both SFT and NXT shockers and decide whats in your budget. Weigh the pros and cons of each, you can compare general characteristics here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/shockernxt/faq.html

What is the purpose of the build?
Decide why you're building a shocker and stick to it by developing a theme. Whether it be an ultralight shocker, specific color scheme, design or special features you want to incorporate, other purpose (ie build a cheap shooter for a friend, loaner gun, extra spare parts laying around and want to build a gun for cheap, etc), all stock, or Private Label (PL) shocker... any reason to build a shocker is a good one Depending on the deals you find, you can build one for cheaper than you could buy a whole one already assembled! What's the fun in just buying one?

Some common and cool mods are: SFT to NXT conversion--milling for NXT eyes and tapped to accept an NXT vertical adapter, SHEGO -shocker/ego hybrid that uses an Ego frame, board, and eyes with a shocker bolt system and either an impulse, shocker, or ego solenoid.

If you have access to a lathe and/or mill, you can truly create something 1 of 1. Here's a few resources for that:
Here's the "Shego" guide: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1937487
Here's an interesting "Shimmy" build: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3727958
Here's the "Shuxe" thread: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...724&highlight=

Start gathering parts with your theme in mind. I recommend starting with essentials and small stuff first such as o-rings, lube (sleek or dow33, lurker lube), screws and pins, solenoid, wiring harness, solenoid inserts, and solenoid manifold; all shockers will need these parts regardless, everything else in interchangeable for the most part. O-ring chart can be found here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/resources/orings.html. Once you've got these small key pieces, look for the other parts you'll need that fit your design scheme. Here is the sticky for shocker upgrades: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=936933

Inspect all parts and screws once you've received them. Shockers are used guns with used parts so make sure none of the screws are stripped, all grub screws in the body are there, etc. There's nothing worse than a stripped screw thread holding up or killing a project. Stripped threads can be repaired, but it's still a speedbump on the way to laning fools. More info about stripped threads can be found at the bottom of this page: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/resources/spthreads.html

Once all desired parts acquired, start assembly. Some advice i can offer is DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ANY SCREW WHILE ASSEMBLING A SHOCKER and USE STOCK/CORRECT SIZE SCREWS. One of the advantages of the NXT is that it uses screws that strip less easily, refer to the previous chart links.

**There are many ways of assembling the shocker, this is just my routine!**

1. Start with the body. Put on feedneck, screw in solenoid inserts, install and loctite body screws, install solenoid manifold, screw on solenoid, plug in eyes and install detents/eye cover. Check grub screws are present and loctited in. Check to make sure the solenoid manifold threads, vertical adapter threads, and frame screw threads are not stripped. Using the correct size screws help avoid stripping threads. Make sure solenoid inserts are the right depth (2-3 threads deep) and you have them in the right places! Long insert on the left, short insert on the right. Make sure the feedneck threads are clean, and be sure to always twist to the right when taking off the hopper so the feedneck doesn't come loose. If the project is getting annodized, if desired, preserve the serial # located on the underside of the body. SFT and NXT shockers use different threads in the barrel and feedneck (some Private Label shockers use Autococker barrel threads). Here's a great page that helps with the body details: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...y_inserts.html




Solenoid + solenoid manifold + eyes notes/instructions:
Solenoid manifold: Install the solenoid manifold on the body first, then the solenoid, then plug in the eyes, followed by putting on the eye cover/detents. Use only stock manifold screws, do not over tighten! Diagram here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho..._solenoid.html. **Manifold uses 3 different size o-rings!!!**
Solenoids:It is attached to the solenoid manifold with two long screws, refer to the diagrams. The eye ribbon (metal part facing up) plugs into the upperboard as well as the wiring harness (connects the upperboard on the solenoid to the lower board in the grip frame).There are two types of solenoids shockers use: Humphrey (white solenoids) have upperboards that can detach, and Parker solenoids which have upperboards that are soldered in. Inspect the upperboard for bent prongs, on/ off button damage/need for repair etc. You can test if it turns on by connecting lower board to upperboard on noid with wiring harness and 9V battery. After the manifold is installed, screw on the solenoid, install the eyes and plug into the solenoid. Also plug in the wiring harness (board connector wires) into the upperboard.
Eyes: SFT shockers use a single eye ribbon (reflective eye, info here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...pperboard.html) and NXT shockers use a double eye ribbon (thus the reason for an eye cover on each side as opposed to the SFT which has just one eye cover. Breakbeam eyes are more reliable in my personal experiences). SFT's reflective eye ribbon has a hard time reading dark paint occasionally. Milling an SFT to accept NXT eyes is a great modification since you have the smaller, lighter profile of the SFT but with NXT eye technology A few pointers on the eyes, the metal side always faces up when plugging into the upperboard, make sure you have NXT eyes in the right spots, diagram here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...pperboard.html. SFT shockers stock have just an eye cover for one side and one short detent (opposite eye side) and one long detent (eye side). NXT shockers have an integrated detent/eye cover system that's visually a little more appealing.

2. Assemble vertical adapter (VA) onto the body and screw in HPR (before or after the frame, depending on fitting locations on the HPR). Make sure on the VA the pin is present along with the o-ring on top AND screw washer is used with the hardware (SFT only, NXT VA uses just the screw without a washer). The vertical adapter is what connects the air source (HPR) to the body of the shocker, you screw your HPR (high pressure regulator) into it, diagram here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...s_body_va.html. I prefer my shockers with 0-300 PSI gauges on the vertical adapter instead of just using a grub screw. You need to monitor the pressure going into the gun at all times. Ideal shocker operating pressure is 180-220 PSI. You can use high pressure tanks. More info here on air source: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...ottomline.html
(NXT va is different from SFT in that there is a second screwhole tapped into the NXT body. NXT va also does not use a pin or washer, just an oring and screw)


3. Assemble bolt system: Consists of bolt, can, sleeve, and guide. Apply fresh o-rings, lube, and install into the back of the shocker carefully. If forced, you can push the bolt guide into the threads in the back of the body causing damage, or damage one of the fresh o-rings you just put on. Bolt diagram here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...gassembly.html. You can push the bolt assembly back out of the shocker with a wooden dowel or even the bolt guide to replace o-rings and maintain the bolt system.

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Last edited by kool_aid22 : 05-20-2013 at 03:15 PM. Reason: update
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:25 AM #2
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4. Install the frame. First, install your trigger on either your SFT or NXT frame. Make sure whatever necessary pins, springs, magnets, and screws are present and in place. Take whichever lower board you picked out and slide it into the frame and secure it with the board pins. Diagram here of the lower board: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...owerboard.html. Place the frame over the solenoid on the body, being careful to not cause damage to the eye ribbon. Pull the wire harness (board connector wires) through to the body and plug into the lower board. Make sure the wire harness/board connector wires are not pinched, sometimes it gets wedged by the power button and causes it to stick/not turn on. After that is done, secure the frame with the body-to-frame screws. If building NXT, install ASA set screws into the bottom and make sure trigger rest is in place (only NXT, behind the trigger). Both SFT and NXT shockers need a power button and pin, which are in the provided diagrams. Make sure the power button's actuator side is down so that it trips the button on the upperboard to turn the gun on. **DO NOT use long grip screws for the top on either frame, as they will screw into the solenoid's upperboard and cause damage, not allowing the gun to turn on. This is one of the top problems new shocker owners come across!!!**Stock NXT shocker frames have threaded pins, a trigger rest, ASA set screws, and dovetail milled in the bottom for direct mounting your ASA on/off. More info on NXT frames here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...ame_frame.html. SFT frames use non threaded pins, do not have a dovetail milled in (need rail). More SFT frame info here: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...ame_frame.html

NXT trigger info: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...e_trigger.html


SFT trigger info: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...e_trigger.html

5. Check electronic and pressure settings. After you have installed the frame and plugged in the wiring harness to the lower board, put grips on the frame using stock screws but leave one side open to slide in a 9V battery and turn the shocker on. I like panel grips because it allows you to change the battery without messing with the other half of the grips, but you can certainly cut regular grips down the front if you'd like as well for convenience sake. Electronically, you still need to set the dwell (how long the valve stays open), eye settings, rate of fire, bps cap, anti bolt stick, and other settings mentioned in the provided diagram. Pressure-wise, you need to set your HPR pressure input to 180-220 PSI. Here is the info for setting NXT electronic and pressure settings: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...ectronics.html
Here is the link for setting SFT electronics and pressure: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...ectronics.html

6. Test it with air and paint! Follow exactly as the manual describes before you air up the shocker or load it with paintballs for safety concerns! Always use a barrel bag! Adjust your electronics according to your lower board and pressures from your regulator. Test that the eyes are working properly and note any leaks or issues you notice. Both SFT and NXT manuals have a troubleshooting section which you should check first for any problems, and obviously ZDSPB.

Factors that impact shocker performance:
-Barrels: Barrel bore is important not only for accuracy purposes, but also efficiency. The closer the match of the barrel bore to paint, the greater the efficiency. Many shocker users run FREAK barrels because they allow you to change the bore using inserts (you can also change length of the barrel tip - 16" barrel tip will result in a higher velocity than a 12" or 14" because the ball is able to pick up more speed through the longer barrel). http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/barrels.html

-Hoppers: if you have a shocker/are building one that doesn't have eyes or eyes are not functioning, if you run a hopper on it that feeds 20+ bps (Rotor, Spire, Prophecy, vlocity, Z2, Halo/Empire) you won't experience that much chopping; essentially the hopper's eyes are acting as the gun's. Eyes on both never hurts though obviously.

-Internals: There are many routes you can go for trying to max out efficiency in your shocker with the internals. (more to come)

-Weather: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1876554

Custom mods + products/references/examples: These are just a few examples of custom modifications to shockers that go above and beyond, sure to turn heads and gain respect! This should inspire you to create something great, or at least that's the point of this thread.
Here is the sticky for all the shocker mods: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3589737


-cs900 -- Can do your Breakbeam SFT milling, SFT to NXT vertical adapter tap/conversion, and your various other metal needs. He also built a SHUXE (Shocker-Luxe) that is the epitome of custom shocker work! (http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...724&highlight=)



-xFi$h -- LED mod! Can change the color of the stock blue LED power button light. (http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3528119)
YDNA's NXT shocker:


-Shooter28's Vampire Strange NXT: cs900 did the frame relocation, custom VA, and milling to match. Luxelike. (other stats let me know I'll add)


-Oldmanian's SpeedsCustoms-Framed Dynasty: Breakbeam milled for NXT eyes, SpeedsCustoms frame + frame relocated (CS900's amazing handywork), Virtue OLED, IPR mod milled and installed, and other upgrades!


-Inmylife2415 (shocker of the year winner!): cs900 did the frame relocation/installation and carbon fiber can, also has a luxe manifold, parker noid with vent mod, PM5 UL frame, pooty bolt and guide and other upgrades!


-Skinz-n-bonez's Hustler Shego (formerly DyeBalla182's - don't worry I got ya in there lol ): Custom "Hustler" Ultralight Body Milling, Star Frame w/ star board, Ego eyes, Eclipse POPS, Violent regulator w/ 45 angle, custom va by cs900 and other upgrades!

-Umami's Shego: cs900 did the frame relocation and shego conversion on this one!


Formerly Busman33's Joker Russian Legion NXT: Clear can, epic anno! Other upgrades I'm sure, let me know and I'll update.


-Clear Can (discontinued for now...lurker working on producing more!!!!): http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3403155
-Low Pressure Bolt Guide Mod: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3905135

-SpeedsCustoms Frame. 2nd run coming soon, buy one!: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3974286

-Lurker Eigenbolt (aluminums available now!): http://www.lurkerpb.com/

-Pooty Paintball Products: http://www.pootypaintball.com/

Pics are courtesy of gun owners and ZDSPB.com.

Enjoy your shocker!
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Last edited by kool_aid22 : 11-29-2013 at 02:14 PM. Reason: updating.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:35 AM #3
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You should put this to practice with the parts im holding for you

Shockers so much fun to tinker with. All of my Shockers are built to how i want and wouldn't have it any other way
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:23 AM #4
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yes, yes i should lol. lemme finish the other 87 guns im working on lol. tinkering is almost as fun as playing
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:08 PM #5
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cool good write up
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:32 PM #6
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Thanks! Suggestions welcome. I wanted to make a cool aid

The purpose of this thread is to inform those that are interested in building shockers; now they have a place to start. Also wanted to bring recognition to the shocker community and inspire people to build something fun and unique!
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:32 PM #7
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Sweet thread
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:05 PM #8
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What is that front part of the grip on the Joker RL? Is that two pairs of grips on top of one another?
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:07 PM #9
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What is that front part of the grip on the Joker RL? Is that two pairs of grips on top of one another?
It is an accessory offered my SPD. http://www.stingerpaintballdesigns.c...nger_Grips.htm
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:24 PM #10
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Just noticed that too, pretty cool...benefit of panel grips for convenience and comfort of some 45s
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:55 PM #11
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Looking good my man. Looking good.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:56 PM #12
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Nice write up, and thanks for including my shocker in the list of the potential.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:11 PM #13
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Another rookie mistake:

Before you air up your shocker: decrease the air input of your regulator all the way (you never know what the previous owner set the regulator to), failing to do this may result in damaging the solenoid.

After you air up then increase regulator accordingly until you reach desired input pressure.
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:24 AM #14
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Yep cant take too many precautions around the solenoid. I learned the hard way to back out the reg's pressure with an old timmy...resulted in a part out lol

Oldmanian - no prob! i tried to include as many examples of different types of shocker builds as i could and the amount of custom work on these just adds to its awesomeness. Gotta show off the speedcustom so that gets going again missed out on that first run
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:49 AM #15
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You should add a straight forward list of parts.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:28 PM #16
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Will do good suggestion. display manual and im gonna post pics as well throughout here soon
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:55 PM #17
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lots of familiar shockers you got posted there
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:00 AM #18
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very nice thread! if only the shocker gods would let me play instead of consuming all my time with building haha
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:14 PM #19
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very nice thread! if only the shocker gods would let me play instead of consuming all my time with building haha
It's a voluntary servitude

The Mod should sticky this thread
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:04 PM #20
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It's a voluntary servitude

The Mod should sticky this thread
I agree d-rock. Need some pursuit points lol. Its not the most technical guide just a starting point/resource center.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:09 PM #21
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Originally Posted by kool_aid22 View Post
I agree d-rock. Need some pursuit points lol. Its not the most technical guide just a starting point/resource center.
True. although its not a step-by-step guide; all of the info is readily available, well organized and from the best sources:yolo:
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"Originally posted by KookieMonster: nope... though it would be interesting to see if anyone would sig anything I've said. :D"

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Last edited by d-r0ck-1489 : 05-18-2013 at 05:12 PM.
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