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Old 04-11-2013, 08:26 AM #22
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Sweet gun. Can't wait to see a shooting video. Do you have any pictures of the inside of the body? Does it come apart like a regular ion body?
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:28 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyronejk View Post
Sweet gun. Can't wait to see a shooting video. Do you have any pictures of the inside of the body? Does it come apart like a regular ion body?
I'd like to know the same.

And looking at the pics, it looks like the mounting plate is for a 3way valve. So this is a mechanical gun?
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:32 PM #24
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I still have to create the internal bores, back cap, and dump ring

Im at an impass right now with the bores because we dont have a boring bar long enough and skinny enough for me to reach that far into the body

but it will be bolt out back

and the mounting plate I made is specifically for the msv2 which will act as the pilot valve for the pavo 3 that will be located underneath it which ultimately cycles the bolt
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:42 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElPanda View Post
and the mounting plate I made is specifically for the msv2 which will act as the pilot valve for the pavo 3 that will be located underneath it which ultimately cycles the bolt
Umm... so does that mean yes its mechanical? I don't know what an MSV2 or Pavo 3 are. At least not by those names.

*edit*

I looked them up. I think I get it now.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:15 PM #26
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:48 PM #27
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Wait... How will it be a B.O.B? Looks like the tube is closed back and a solid piece...

As far as LP, have you considered getting a lighter, higher volume bolt like a Shocktech Supafly or an NDZ Skeleton (if you can find one. If you can find 3, ****ing hit me the **** up, my good sir.)?


On other parts, considered going with higher flow barbs and hoses or is that not possible with the PAVO?



Also, that UL frame looks thin as is and are really susceptible to bending. Are you sure that isn't going to be too anorexic to manage the stress of a marker? Maybe have that reinforcement plate reach the back of the frame?




All in all, that looks freshski. Can't wait to see it shoot. Hopefully you can manage to make a really tight travel so you can roll on that as a mechanical. I know the eNMey has some crazy fast capabilities with how it's set up.


BTW, CCM no pros suck. Their body is WAY too small to even hold a rotor in (and they have short *** necks.). I'd opt for at least the taller body no pros that CCM makes (or are they called mid pros?) or a CP neck (had one, they're super ****ing light and small, but will completely hold in any loader without any excess height and are pretty strong unless you drop the gun on the neck from high up onto a hard surface without a loader on it.
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:32 PM #28
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the frame is still very sound structurally, have you ever seen an NT frame? those are thinner by alot

also, like I said, the inner boring operations have not been completed yet, hence why it appears as though there is still material in the body...because there is

and I have had no pro's on several markers without problems, this is more of a trophy piece anyway so it wont be seeing any rough play
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:28 PM #29
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I saw you posted and got all excited about an update

severely disappoint.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:00 PM #30
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Could alway put a permenant stub then use a Ego(?) double clamping feedneck.I have a CCM no pro on my Specops bodied Ion.its tricky to thread on but it fits without body mods
Really like this build,Ive falling back in love with mech guns lately,like your minimilist approach
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:28 PM #31
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The Empire Sniper style necks are much smaller and lighter in weight/size/profile than Ego necks and clamp perfectly as well.

I just think that your feedneck looks weird.
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:06 AM #32
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Originally Posted by pbjunkiee View Post
I saw you posted and got all excited about an update

severely disappoint.
sorry to dissapoint

Ill be in the shop next weekend hopefully, I need to spend some time making a boring bar so I can get the rest of the major body work finished

after that I need to spend time making the other two drivetrain components

untill then here is something to satiate your desires





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Old 04-21-2013, 01:43 AM #33
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Dude your insanely talented... I can't wait to see the bolt out back. I honestly don't understand any of this engineering terminology but it looks super sick especially considering you made it all by yourself as opposed to paintball corporations that have whole teams designing guns. Can't wait to see it finished. Subbed.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:28 AM #34
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You might want to think of a way to retain the bolt stop. If it were to drag at all on the return stroke, it could pull back and cause issues. Something as simple as a thin tube that goes between the BOB plug and the bolt stop to push it forward like is in the XE style valve train. Mill some slots or punch some holes into it if you don't want to sacrifice the volume for it.

Also, if you have a way to retain it, you could make the bore that the sail o-ring rides in be integrated with the bolt stop, and not have to worry about having quite as nice a surface area for it that deep into the body.

Very nice work though, it looks great.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:44 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y0da900 View Post
Also, if you have a way to retain it, you could make the bore that the sail o-ring rides in be integrated with the bolt stop, and not have to worry about having quite as nice a surface area for it that deep into the body.
This would add the feature of 1-piece bolt removal.

Also, from my experience that volume behind the "ram" is going to be wasted air that doesn't propel the ball, you might consider making a new bolt that is longer instead and eliminating that volume.

Looks awesome though!
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:20 PM #36
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Looks sleek mag. In for updates
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:53 PM #37
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Originally Posted by y0da900 View Post
You might want to think of a way to retain the bolt stop. If it were to drag at all on the return stroke, it could pull back and cause issues. Something as simple as a thin tube that goes between the BOB plug and the bolt stop to push it forward like is in the XE style valve train. Mill some slots or punch some holes into it if you don't want to sacrifice the volume for it.

Also, if you have a way to retain it, you could make the bore that the sail o-ring rides in be integrated with the bolt stop, and not have to worry about having quite as nice a surface area for it that deep into the body.

Very nice work though, it looks great.
I was considering an aluminum sleeve on the inside as well

also I am going to be adding a threaded bolt stop in the rear of the bolt guide so I can fine tune the bolt position

Quote:
Originally Posted by Umami View Post
This would add the feature of 1-piece bolt removal.

Also, from my experience that volume behind the "ram" is going to be wasted air that doesn't propel the ball, you might consider making a new bolt that is longer instead and eliminating that volume.

Looks awesome though!
I was at a crossroads when designing the extra volume, I realize it has a ways to go to get to the valve, however as this is a mechanical marker, I figure the dwell is going to be relatively large, even with the occasional short stroke. Also I care more about protecting the valves, fittings, and hoses more than I care about efficiency, so Im trying to keep it as low as I can

and Im not going to make another bolt, if I even considered that avenue I would simply modify the existing bolt before I made an entirely new one. Which does give me some interesting thoughts about lopping the tail off and creating a threaded sub tail of my own design

but thank you both for your input, it carries weight, believe me
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:53 PM #38
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:05 PM #39
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Looks awesome so far
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:01 PM #40
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:39 PM #41
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2nd post updated, I was able to create the internal bore diameters I needed to

I will still need to polish them though, the bolt slides in as seen in the final pic and lines up right where its supposed to not bad for just marking the reamer with a scale and sharpie

however there is some slight roughness when sliding the bolt back and forth, need to polish it all up nice and pretty

pilot drilled with a .5 in drill

finish drilled with a .75 in drill

bored out large diameter with a boring bar

created smaller bore with a 25/32 reamer

I am going to create a mount for my feedneck, I didnt want to but I really am not feeling the direct threading style, Ill just make a small mount with two screws on the side, frankenstein style, will be much stronger
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:41 PM #42
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What nicad did for the feedneck on the Aedes should work pretty well on such a small diameter body, or something along those lines.
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