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Old 03-27-2013, 09:04 PM #1
rkenders
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DP G3, G4, Threshy trigger mod

This is my second DP thread. I have a G3, G4, G5 and Threshy. DP hasn't been well known for spectacular triggers. The G5 trigger is the best they have created so far and a significant improvement over anything else I have seen from them. I modded my G4 trigger some time ago with bearings which took out almost all the wobble and generally less than wonderful feel. I recently purchased a G5 and pulled it all apart. I liked the way the trigger was done and once adjusted for slop in the bearings is actually quite nice for a $330 gun. I essentially copied what DP did in the G5 on my Threshy and will do the same for my G3 soon too.

If you want your gun modded by me, send me a PM and we can work out the details.

Here is how to make your G3, G4, Threshy or just about any gun with a sloppy trigger silky smooth. I have done this mod on cockers, DP's, Ion's, CCM's and probably a few I don't remember.

Things you will need:
Drill press (preferred) or hand drill
Set of allen keys
Drill bit set and one the same diameter as your bearings and several sizes smaller
8/32 tap and handle
Blue locktite
2 G4 trigger adjustment screws (8/32 threads). A couple of set screws with pointed ends will work too. If you use the trigger screws you want to file off the points by about 1/16". The points may touch inside the trigger and allow for a little wobble because you cant tighten the screws enough.
2 very small bearings (The G3 Spec-R trigger is a good source for bearings or any old trigger. I usually scrounge around for bearings.)
Small piece of macroline or similar hard tubing to use as a spacer between the bearings

Note: Most small bearings suitable for triggers are metric (4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm or 6mm) Metric drill bits are not absolutely necessary, but they get you holes that match up a lot closer to your bearing sizes. Some standard sizes are close to the metric bearing diameters, but introduce slop which you are trying to eliminate.

Note: You want your trigger to be as straight as possible in the frame and to function perfectly. I have done trigger mods with a cordless drill, but it is very easy to drill out a hole slightly crooked and then your trigger is possibly going to bind up in the frame or won't go in at all. As a result a drill press while not absolutely essential makes getting your holes correct MUCH easier and nearly fool proof. I drill out the frame holes and the trigger on the drill press.

1. Take the frame off the gun so you can get at the trigger.
2. Remove the board from the frame.
3. Remove the trigger from the frame.
4. Use the appropriate sized drill to drill out the trigger pin hole so it can be tapped with an 8/32 tap
5. Carefully tap the frame. Be sure to NOT let the tap get crooked. the tapped holes need to be 100% vertical with the side of the frame.
6. Start with a drill bit slightly larger than the trigger pin hole. It is super important that the hole through the trigger stays perfectly straight or else when you are done, you will have a trigger that wont track straight in the frame and may bind up. I recommend drilling out the trigger on a drill press so you can make sure the hole stays straight. Go to a larger drill bit and drill out the hole again. Repeat until you are at the diameter of the bearings. You step through several drill bits so that the hole stays centered correctly in the trigger. Just drilling it out to size is likely to ruin the trigger.
7. Cut a small piece of tubing that allows the bearings to go into the trigger and yet protrude a little on either side. You can sand or file the tubing a little to shorten the length to get the bearing overhang just right. You want the bearings to stick out enough so that when you slide the trigger into the frame, there is no gap between the frame and the bearings. When you put in the screws to hold the bearings they will compress the bearings and spacer a little and create a tiny gap. If your hole through the trigger is slightly over sized for your bearings, don't worry. You can shim the hole with a piece of tape or use some thread to take up the slop. My drill bit was a tiny bit larger than the bearings so they were a little loose in the hole and once assembled introduced some wobble. The thread completely took out the slop in the bearings.
8. Clean up the various holes so they don't have any snags of metal from being drilled out or tapped. Also clean up any bits of metal in the frame. You don't want them getting on the board or inside the gun.
9. Assemble the trigger inside the frame and thread the G4 trigger adj screws into the frame holes and into the center of the bearings in the trigger. Tighten the screws until the trigger has no wobble, but loose enough so the trigger doesn't bind up. Also make sure the trigger is centered in the frame by making sure the 2 screws are threaded in the same amount.
10. Once you are satisfied with how the trigger works, loosen the screws and put a drop of locktite on them and then tighten them like before for perfect trigger operation.
11. Reassemble the gun and give it a try. You may need to readjust your trigger settings a little.

With the grips on you can't tell I did anything until you pull the trigger and it's silky smooth with no wobble.


Those are G4 trigger adjustment screws, bearings from some "other" old trigger and a very short piece of macroline.


You drill out and then using an 8/32 tap thread the trigger pin hole on both sides of the frame.


Here's my trigger after drilling it out to fit the bearings


You can just see that the bearings stick out beyond the sides of the trigger. The black thread passes through the trigger hole and takes out a tiny bit of slop between the bearings and the hole because I didn't use a metric drill bit. You could use locktite as well.


It's hard to see, but the screws are just barely below the surface of the frame when they are holding the bearings just right.
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Last edited by rkenders : 04-02-2013 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:28 AM #2
xmc1146
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Cool write up. I did my own trigger as well long time ago.
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:41 AM #3
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May have to try this. Now the tough part is finding where to get those small bearings and to get them in the correct ID and OD size .
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:26 AM #4
xmc1146
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I bought some 3x6x3 bearing and got the FX swivel screw. it has a 3mm shank so its perfect for bearing.
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:11 PM #5
rkenders
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA_Tectonics View Post
May have to try this. Now the tough part is finding where to get those small bearings and to get them in the correct ID and OD size .
5 to 6mm for the OD is perfect. The ID doesn't really matter. You are going to thread the pointy end of the screw into the ID of the bearing and the cone shape on the screw will meet the ID at some point.

found this on ebay...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trigger-PMR-...em3cd040 2e09

I used to have a couple of old PMR triggers that I scavenged the bearings from for a trigger mod. These little guys will work great.

If you can wait a month for them to get here from china...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110794440504... 4.m1439.l2649

I purchased some bearings with 4, 5 and 6mm OD's from China. Some times there is very little metal to drill out and a smaller bearing is best. I have a psychobalistics cocker that has a wobbly trigger. Because of the design, the bearings have to go in the frame because the trigger pin is locked down with a set screw inside the trigger. There's not much metal around the trigger pin in the frame so when I mod it, I will be using 4mm bearings. I have 2 WGP cockers modded the same way, but with 5.5mm bearings. I put a drop of blue locktite in the hole as I slide in the bearing to hold them in place. The bearings are flush with surface of the frame and the only thing that holds them in place is the snugness of the hole and the locktite. I haven't lost a bearing yet.


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Last edited by rkenders : 03-28-2013 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:21 PM #6
xmc1146
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You can buy the bearings at any rc hobby store. Kinda expensive but at least youll have it at that moment.
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:43 PM #7
rkenders
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmc1146 View Post


Cool write up. I did my own trigger as well long time ago.
That looks like it might be a G4. I don't recognize the trigger. That is one seriously amazing anno job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xmc1146 View Post
You can buy the bearings at any rc hobby store. Kinda expensive but at least youll have it at that moment.
I buy a load of things online so I avoid taxes and the higher prices. I buy cloths, gas and food locally, that's about it.
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Last edited by rkenders : 03-28-2013 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:52 PM #8
xmc1146
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Its a G3. I had it hydro dip. The project isnt done yet but i have the trigger set up to where.i feel good about it. Im still waiting for the.rest of my parts to come back from this guy.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:18 PM #9
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Any chance to add a spring mod to the G4 trigger? Rather than the forward magnet breakaway system in use now?


If you can figure that one out, I'd pay for it.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:49 PM #10
rkenders
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatafetus View Post
Any chance to add a spring mod to the G4 trigger? Rather than the forward magnet breakaway system in use now?


If you can figure that one out, I'd pay for it.
I've considered doing that before...just never got around to it.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:34 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmc1146 View Post
Its a G3. I had it hydro dip. The project isnt done yet but i have the trigger set up to where.i feel good about it. Im still waiting for the.rest of my parts to come back from this guy.

What's Hydro dip cost?
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:14 PM #12
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I have a TON of DM trigger bearings BTW..
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:46 PM #13
rkenders
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrmrSpecialist View Post
I have a TON of DM trigger bearings BTW..
PM'd about bearings
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