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Old 09-30-2012, 08:47 PM #1
diet_popcorn
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
DP M3-A1 Overview/Review (with pictures!!)

hey all, I had this marker on special order for a few weeks and finally picked it up and played for the first time with it today. Thought I would share my thoughts/opinions on it and provide some pictures as well.


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Here's a close up of the spare parts (I'm glad they included a lot of o-rings).
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The M4 style body pins make this marker extremely easy to get apart.
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Here's where DP looses ALOT of points: barrel access
The pictures will help explain, but basically the handguard has to be removed BEFORE unscrewing the barrel.

this screw must be removed first

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Note the widened portion of the barrels (near the threading): The barrels will NOT fit through the OUTER handguard ring or the barrel block at the front.
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This pretty much sums up how to get the marker apart and the barrel off.

Now for other stuff about the marker:

Here is the INNER handguard ring (the barrel fits through this). It is also threaded onto the upper receiver. Maybe the threading is AR-15 compatible????? I will surely look into it.
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The r.i.s. rail/ rear sight can be removed by unscrewing the two allen screws. This reveals a flattop rail like on most M4/M16 rifles.
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I mounted the standard M4 carry handle from my RAM .43 marker just to try. And it fits!
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I thought I would try to fit the magazine from my RAM .43 marker in the magwell of the DP M3-A1.
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Since the .43 magazine is slightly larger than the DP M3-A1 magazine it did not fit, but it came very very close. I will have to see if standard M4 airsoft gun magazines or real-steel magazines will fit the magwell.

Pistol grip removal is very easy. Just unscrew the two silver screws and it comes right out.
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I was kind of hoping that the grip would implement the lever style pressure release system like on other DP markers, but this just has a threaded on/off. It should be noted that the screw can come right out of the unit. Not sure if this is good or bad because I've never had an on/off ASA before. The ASA and pistol grip is a one piece unit and is full metal (the asa and yes even the pistol grip itself).

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The trigger guard can be "lowered" for optimal use with gloves. Use a small allen screw and push the little button in and then rotate the trigger guard down. It will not come completely off on its own which is good.

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This post has hit the image limit, so I will make another one (regardless of double post or not).
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:13 PM #2
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The handguard is easy to get apart. Simply remove the two screws below the front sight and then the one underneath.
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One of the screws is for the front sling loop, and you can switch right or left sides.

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The hand guard is three pieces. The upper piece and the barrel block are metal and the lower piece (with the rails) is high quality (abs) plastic.


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Due to the symmetrical nature of the feedneck mounting screws, the feedneck can be mounted upside down for.................. THE Q LOADER!!!!

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Quick note: This is not the finished q loader setup I will use, just a quick demonstration mock up.


Honestly, I love these kinds of markers. Speedball performance in a woodsball frame. I love playing woodsball, but you can't deny that electro pneumatic markers generally perform better than mechanical (or even electric) woodsball markers. The regulated low pressure system and reduced number of moving parts are better.

This marker shoots at a fairly consistent velocity and it is very accurate. I love the look of it and splitting the upper receiver from the lower receiver is just too much fun. Sliding the bolt out the back also provides for easy, tool free maintenance.

Not being able to unscrew the barrel without removing the hand guard sucks, though. I didn't have any barrel breaks while playing today, but I'm sure there will be plenty to come (DP, please prove me wrong).

For veteran DP shooters:

Any reason why my gun stopped shooting during games today? Twice I recall, I was shooting ropes of paint and then the gun just stopped. There was only a clicking noise coming from the trigger. My hopper was on and I had plenty of air. To solve the problem I pushed my squeegee down the barrel all the way to the chamber and removed it. After this the gun fired fine. Maybe the hopper was pushing paintballs past the detents so the eyes couldn't see them? Though I never had any double feeds today. Also I was using an old battery from my TM-15, so maybe that was it??
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:18 AM #3
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Thanks for the pics and the breakdown. I can't wait to get my hands on mine. I have #21 on layaway at the local paintball store.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:32 AM #4
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Lol @ the barrel not being removable without removing a screw. Good job DP!

I don't see the draw to the marker for the price tag. There are better options out there for half the cost with the same performance.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:42 AM #5
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Thanks for taking the time to show us the pics.

The stop shooting thing is odd.. if you hear the click the noid is porbably working which means the eyes are seeing something.. Unless the click was not the noid clicking but the trigger or something.

The battery is probably the best start.. otherwise the noid may need to be lubed.. although its odd the squeege fixed it..

Let us know if the click was a noid clicking or just the click from the trigger possibly.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:54 PM #6
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Thanks for the write up, thats nice to know that the feedneck can indeed be flipped for a qloader/warp setup.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:27 PM #7
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I have one on the wall...haven't messed with it though
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:31 PM #8
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Yea I'll just switch the battery and try and grease some moving parts and o rings and see if it is fixed next weekend when I play next. I'll also try to get some more pictures up soon of the bolt and electronics.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:05 PM #9
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Can you thread in a normal AC threaded barrel without the screw issue?

Any idea as to why the barrel isn't easily removable? I would think they could just mill that thing off... It also looks like one barrel has a "step" while the other does not. Any explanation on that?
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:02 PM #10
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Ok, more things!!! Thank you Racso for bringing up the barrel questions. I took more pictures and will explain more in depth.

First, the barrel "step": If you notice in the picture below there is actually a "step" on the 13inch barrel as well as the 10inch barrel, and it is much longer.
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The next picture shows the two barrels being inserted backwards, which shows that they will not fit all the way through the front barrel block due to the "step". So, when inserted properly, neither of the barrels can be unscrewed without first removing the hand guard because of the "step". Even if the "step" was milled off, the barrel threads themselves are still too wide to fit through the barrel block.
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The next two pictures show that even if one were to try and insert the barrels properly (threads first), they STILL won't fit through. The rear portion of the barrel is just barely too wide to fit through the barrel block!!!
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As for normal autococker threaded barrels, the threads on the marker itself will fit any autococker threaded barrel. Atleast DP got this right. The three pictures below show the stock BT TM15 barrel, the APEX2, and a spyder-to-autcocker threaded barrel adapter.
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Since all these barrels, and probably every other barrel, are wider than the stock M3-A1 barrels there's no way these will fit on the marker with the hand guard installed. One would have to leave the hand guard off if they wanted to use an aftermarket barrel.

I'm guessing the reason that the barrel isn't easily removable is for "barrel/hand guard stability" while on the marker. I have owned countless tippmann markers and although they have a wide variety of aftermarket shrouds available sometimes the manufacturing specs can be a little off, so the hand guard/shroud will wobble when attached to the marker. RAP4 solved this issue by securing all their hand guards/ shrouds to their markers with set screws. The only problem is that they have enough set screws in them to hold an airplane together. It's ridiculous how many set screws it takes to secure the hand guards and shrouds to their markers and barrels. It takes forever to get all of them off if you want to get the barrel off. I suppose that DP just needed the one screw to secure the shroud to the marker. Which it does. Very very well. There is absolutely NO wobble in the hand guard AT ALL. Since the hand guard is secured so well with just one screw I guess I couldn't tell you why the barrel can't be removed without first removing the shroud. With the barrel threaded in the marker (without the hand guard on it) it's still just as secure as any other barrel threaded on any other marker ever made ever.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:19 AM #11
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Dremmel it lol.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:49 AM #12
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Here is the board, solenoid, and eye/detent housing
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The three phillips head screws release the board and the 4 allen head screws release the solenoid and eye/detent housing
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The eyes and detents. The eyes look proprietary, but the detents look pretty standard.
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The bolt slides out the back of the upper receiver.
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The front section unscrews and the bolt (at the bottom) slides out
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The next portion of the bolt is accessed by inserting allen head screw drivers into each end and unscrewing the piece. What comes out is shown in this picture
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Yet another portion can be unscrewed with the same two allen head screw drivers. This orange thingy comes out.
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That's pretty much the electronics and the bolt. There's not much to the electronics and the bolt has hella o-rings in it. Like probably more than any of my other paintball guns I've owned combined.

THE DETENTS WERE THE SOURCE OF THE EMPTY CLICKING I DESCRIBED EARLIER. They had not been properly installed at the factory and they were not keeping paintballs in the chamber. The paintballs would roll slightly forward out of visible range of the eyes. I cleaned out the detents and they work much better now. The problem is solved.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:44 PM #13
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Sweetest milsim marker ever...
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:08 PM #14
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For $600 I wouldn't waste my money on this. I go buy me a phenom lol
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:43 PM #15
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is the bolt and reg a combo there, or where is the reg located. cause the bolt picture looks like a reg seat in one.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:46 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtpbmasta View Post
is the bolt and reg a combo there, or where is the reg located. cause the bolt picture looks like a reg seat in one.
Yes, it is an inline reg/bolt combo.
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