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Old 02-14-2013, 12:06 PM #1
James4465
 
 
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DM6 LPR Issue?

So I went to tune my brothers dm6 (it pretty much hasn't been used since 07) and I turned the lpr all the way in and the gun was still cycling and shooting balls but then after a while with the lpr turned all the way in the dm6 started to not cycle so i began to back the lpr out and tune it.

The HPR might have been turned up a little to high I'm not sure if that would make the gun cycle with the lpr turned all the way in? Should I take the lpr apart clean it and replace o-rings?
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:11 PM #2
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Was it shooting before you tuned it?
And this is a great thread to start for troubleshooting/tuning questions. http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1782145
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:15 PM #3
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Was it shooting before you tuned it?
Yes but very loud a lot of kick and not efficient also right before I tuned it I checked the bolt because it had a leak and one of the o-rings was disintegrated so maybe the o-rings in the lpr aren't any good?
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:18 PM #4
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If it has been sitting for 5+ years there is a good chance the orings are bad. If it were mine i would replace all the orings and retune the marker. If you don't have the orings there are a couple of great sellers on this site that offer whole marker oring sets for a great price!
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:44 PM #5
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If it has been sitting for 5+ years there is a good chance the orings are bad. If it were mine i would replace all the orings and retune the marker. If you don't have the orings there are a couple of great sellers on this site that offer whole marker oring sets for a great price!
I have a dm11 o-ring kit will that have all the sizes for the dm6?
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:07 PM #6
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It will have most I believe. It looks like the front bumper o ring is different. DM6 takes 015 bn70. And in the lpr Piston small o-ring (006 UR90) on the dm6 as well.
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:42 PM #7
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I'd definitely order a cheap rebuild kit, or a oring kit from oring monkey or ansgear then rebuild it, if it's been sitting it will always shoot like ****

make sure you redo the LPR/HPR as well along with the LPR/HPR bumper seats and the orings on the brass fitting
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:37 PM #8
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I'd definitely order a cheap rebuild kit, or a oring kit from oring monkey or ansgear then rebuild it, if it's been sitting it will always shoot like ****

make sure you redo the LPR/HPR as well along with the LPR/HPR bumper seats and the orings on the brass fitting
Same problem here, i change all the o-rings and problem solved!
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:39 PM #9
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I'd definitely order a cheap rebuild kit, or a oring kit from oring monkey or ansgear then rebuild it, if it's been sitting it will always shoot like ****

make sure you redo the LPR/HPR as well along with the LPR/HPR bumper seats and the orings on the brass fitting
Do most of the lpr o-rings come in the little kit that comes with the dm6? It has an evolve pi HPR on it so I'd have to look up the manual for that to see what o-rings it takes.

I'm definitely going to get a complete o-ring kit for his dm6 but we are playing in a few days so I'm just looking to change the lpr o-rings for now.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:24 PM #10
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Quote:
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Do most of the lpr o-rings come in the little kit that comes with the dm6? It has an evolve pi HPR on it so I'd have to look up the manual for that to see what o-rings it takes.

I'm definitely going to get a complete o-ring kit for his dm6 but we are playing in a few days so I'm just looking to change the lpr o-rings for now.
Not too sure on what orings come in the dm6 oring kit.. but the only orings you need for the LPR are the 006 (010 BN70)

the evolve pi HPR is a really old regulator honestly you might not find a manual I'd definitely suggest gettitng a new one or barrowing one for now
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:28 PM #11
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Not too sure on what orings come in the dm6 oring kit.. but the only orings you need for the LPR are the 006 (010 BN70)

the evolve pi HPR is a really old regulator honestly you might not find a manual I'd definitely suggest gettitng a new one or barrowing one for now
How much do the hyper 2 regs go for used? Thanks for the help btw.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:37 PM #12
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How much do the hyper 2 regs go for used? Thanks for the help btw.
15-25 bucks hyper 3's are kind cheap as well
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:06 PM #13
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It sounds to me like this gun is still nicely broken in and really doesn't need anything at all. If it can cycle that long with the LPR almost all the way in......I say leave it alone!!!

Give the drive train and regs a good cleaning and relubing then set the gun up properly and use it. Unless you have a leak, or an obviously broken oring don't change them.

The orings in there will be totally broken in already and allow you to run the LPR pretty low from what I gather.

No DM has ever been loud, unless you're shooting without paint indoors. Then of course it's going to be loud.

Learn to tune the LPR properly and you'll be good to go. If your LPR is too high you'll waste a lot of air but...Dms aren't good on air period. 1200 shot's on a 68/4500 fill tops!
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:38 PM #14
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It sounds to me like this gun is still nicely broken in and really doesn't need anything at all. If it can cycle that long with the LPR almost all the way in......I say leave it alone!!!

Give the drive train and regs a good cleaning and relubing then set the gun up properly and use it. Unless you have a leak, or an obviously broken oring don't change them.

The orings in there will be totally broken in already and allow you to run the LPR pretty low from what I gather.

No DM has ever been loud, unless you're shooting without paint indoors. Then of course it's going to be loud.

Learn to tune the LPR properly and you'll be good to go. If your LPR is too high you'll waste a lot of air but...Dms aren't good on air period. 1200 shot's on a 68/4500 fill tops!
i disagree with you, if the gun is still cycling with the LPR set screw almost all the way in the gun has issues, no ifs and or butts, to simply break in a oring just drive fire it to cause friction a few hundred times, but in this case he needs a rebuild
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:56 PM #15
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I believe grss429 is right, this gun hasn't been used since 07. He needs a rebuild.
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:30 PM #16
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ieee

Quote:
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i disagree with you, if the gun is still cycling with the LPR set screw almost all the way in the gun has issues, no ifs and or butts, to simply break in a oring just drive fire it to cause friction a few hundred times, but in this case he needs a rebuild
What issue does a nice low running LPR have? That's what everyone strives for is it not? LOL. My guess is, since it only worked that way for a short time, that in fact his LPR works fine and really only needed to be turned up a bit more to work perfectly. If there's creep in the LPR then an oring change won't help anyway, he'll need a reg seat.

It's far more likely an entire oring change will be the cause of more problems than anything, especially for someone not familiar with the gun. Fresh lube..........tune it properly. Play ball. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:47 PM #17
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Exact same thing is happening on my new dm6

The lpr will be turned all the way in and the bolt won't shoot forward and stay. It just has a slight leaking noise and still cycles, then when you turn it out half a turn the leaking go's away and the gun cycles.

I used it today and it was chopping balls. Dwell at 21.

The o-rings on the lpr were recently changed and I just re-lubed them.

Could it be because my hpr is set too low that it would cause the lpr issues? The gun was chrono'd at 280 and was consistent.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:32 PM #18
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Quote:
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Exact same thing is happening on my new dm6

The lpr will be turned all the way in and the bolt won't shoot forward and stay. It just has a slight leaking noise and still cycles, then when you turn it out half a turn the leaking go's away and the gun cycles.

I used it today and it was chopping balls. Dwell at 21.

The o-rings on the lpr were recently changed and I just re-lubed them.

Could it be because my hpr is set too low that it would cause the lpr issues? The gun was chrono'd at 280 and was consistent.

Where is it leaking from when you zero the LPR out,

Basically the gun shouldn't fire AT ALL if the LPR is zero'd out

if you're chronoing at 280 your reg isn't set to low.

like i said in PM, i know you said the inside LPR oring looks clean but change it anyways.


To fix your problem it's only can be a few things... ( from what i'm understanding in your posts so far)

but first thing is first when you zero out the LPR where does it leak cause this could tell me all I need to know

1: Inside LPR oring

2: LPR piston oring

3: LPR brass adjuster oring (not the seat the oring on the brass adjuster)

but the way you're trying to explain things is kinda baffling to me. (is this the same gun u posted or a different dm6 with similar problems)


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What issue does a nice low running LPR have? That's what everyone strives for is it not? LOL. My guess is, since it only worked that way for a short time, that in fact his LPR works fine and really only needed to be turned up a bit more to work perfectly. If there's creep in the LPR then an oring change won't help anyway, he'll need a reg seat.

It's far more likely an entire oring change will be the cause of more problems than anything, especially for someone not familiar with the gun. Fresh lube..........tune it properly. Play ball. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I'm not trying to offend you or anything but, Like i said if he can cycle the gun with the lpr screwed in all the way there is a issue. there is no dm in the word that would or could run at a lpr lower then anything under 1 turn, even then you have to be crazy to run a lpr of 1 or 1/2 that's so low
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:24 PM #19
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Where is it leaking from when you zero the LPR out,

Basically the gun shouldn't fire AT ALL if the LPR is zero'd out

if you're chronoing at 280 your reg isn't set to low.

like i said in PM, i know you said the inside LPR oring looks clean but change it anyways.


To fix your problem it's only can be a few things... ( from what i'm understanding in your posts so far)

but first thing is first when you zero out the LPR where does it leak cause this could tell me all I need to know

1: Inside LPR oring

2: LPR piston oring

3: LPR brass adjuster oring (not the seat the oring on the brass adjuster)

but the way you're trying to explain things is kinda baffling to me. (is this the same gun u posted or a different dm6 with similar problems)




I'm not trying to offend you or anything but, Like i said if he can cycle the gun with the lpr screwed in all the way there is a issue. there is no dm in the word that would or could run at a lpr lower then anything under 1 turn, even then you have to be crazy to run a lpr of 1 or 1/2 that's so low
Completely different DM6 with the exact same problem. The leak sounds like its coming out of the inside of the body like the solinoid area. I'd have to take the body off to pinpoint it but it instantly stops leaking when you turn the lpr out a 1/4 turn.
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:28 AM #20
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Completely different DM6 with the exact same problem. The leak sounds like its coming out of the inside of the body like the solinoid area. I'd have to take the body off to pinpoint it but it instantly stops leaking when you turn the lpr out a 1/4 turn.
Pin point the leak for me, cause it shouldn't leak at all.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:02 PM #21
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If the gun cycles with the LPR zero'd out, then you have high pressure air bypassing the LPR and getting to the bolt where Low pressure air should be. That means an oring seperating high pressure and low pressure air in the LPR is gone, OR the regulator seat itself is trashed.

If you have a leak with the LPR at zero....well that could come from an outer LPR body oring.......could be your large top hat oring is allowing high pressure air to dump out the noid. You have to locate it like grss said. I'd just air the gun up with the grip frame off and spray around with some soapy water. Don't soak the board! lol.
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