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Old 03-15-2013, 04:30 PM #1
Kryptakronakonalyte
 
 
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ottawa
First Post: Old-school player getting back into paintball: Custom Autococker

*WARNING: LONG POST*

Hello PbNation! As the title suggests, I was once heavily into paintball but have not been for awhile as I have spent the last 5 years getting my undergrad. To give context, the last time I had a fully functional marker/played an organized game of paintball, VL Revvy's were the best hoppers and electronic triggers only came stock on Angels and other ridiculously priced markers. I noticed a lot has changed since then...

Anywho, the time has come for me to get back onto the field. The Autococker was and still is my favorite marker. I'm a tinkerer and love to customize the **** out of everything I own so it's the natural choice for a paintball marker. Long story short, I had to decide whether I wanted to buy a new marker (was looking at PE AM Etha's and Dangerous Power) or take my completely stock 2002 WGP Autococker and customize the **** out of it. I chose the latter because although building from my own paintball marker from essentially the ground up sounded very time consuming, I think it would be very educational and rewarding for me as a paintball enthusiast.

Ok, now the fun stuff. Like I said, I am working from a completely stock 2002, vert feed (thank god) WGP Autococker that has all its parts but is currently disassembled. The body of the marker is currently being half blocked by one of my best friends who is a professional machinist. This includes milling the back half of the upper tube, creating a slot between the lower and upper tubes so the bolt push-pin can re-cock the hammer, as well as milling the hammer to accept the bolt push-pin.

Assuming that the body is milled properly, from what I understand, 3 things need to happen for the bolt to operate properly: 1) acquire a half block bolt, 2) acquire a sled that fits my milled marker 3) shorten/re-thread if necessary the pump rod to fit the ram/sled. I don't think anything else is necessary to make the bolt/hammer function properly outside timing the marker as a whole and sweet-spotting the inline regulator. Please correct me I'm wrong.

Now for the rest of the marker. Ideally, I would like to upgrade every piece of the marker aside from the screws that the hold the damn thing together. My mental checklist of parts for the marker itself (aside from front block, spring, o-rings, and the body itself) is as follows:

1) Trigger frame (Check: E2 Eblade frame [no board] with sear solenoid)
2) Inline Regulator (Check: Air America Vigilante)
3) 3-way (Check: E2 solenoid)
4) LPR
5) Ram
6) Hammer
7) Valve (Hammer and valve hopefully to be replaced with a MQ2 if I can ever get my hands on one)
8) Front block hoses/Loctite

Other unless otherwise specified, I have the stock pieces that should be upgraded, minus the hoses that need to be re-done anyways.

1) E-board: E2 or Tadao Yakuza? As a first time e-cocker user, would I even notice the difference between the E2 and the Yakuza or is the Tadao worth the money in the grand scheme of things? I'm thinking long-term and Yakuza.

4) LPR: I was thinking the ANS Jackhammer II if I can find one. Other options on eBay seem to be Belsales EVO LPR and STO LPR's.

5) Ram: Belsales .44 Magnum Ram or STO Ram? I've also heard QEV's are essential for E-Cockers to perform to their best potential?

6) (Milled) Hammer: Ideally replaced by MQ2 but suggestions until then?

7) Valve: Ideally replace by MQ2 but suggestions until then?

8) Front block Hoses: I need new ones anyways; seems cheap on eBay.

Unless I'm leaving anything out, that is everything to get my marker operational again aside from air.

That leaves barrel, air system, hopper, and mask, of which I am open to any suggestions. I have a one-piece 12" Dye Boomstick from back in the day and I've heard Ninja is good for air systems, a Dye Rotor is good for a hopper (I still have my 12v VL Revolution), and JT or Empire are good for masks.

As a player who wants to be able to compete in woodsball, 'recreational speedball' or semi-pro speedball at best, please let me know if this is a decent set-up and feel free to leave any suggestions!
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:49 PM #2
Dung Beetle
 
 
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Sounds like this is going to be a nice build!

I'm in the same situation you are... getting back into the game after several years. When I started paintball (1996) it was all about Cockers and Mags. After looking around at what's on the market currently, I've decided to stick with the "old school" stuff as well.

With the lpr have you considered using a Palmers? My 04 vert feed cocker has a tickler on it...but if it ever needs replacing I think I'd go with something from Palmers. I get the impression that their stuff is of exceptional quality.

-Levi
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:16 PM #3
Kryptakronakonalyte
 
 
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I have seen and heard of Palmers but have not had any personal experience with them. I will have to investigate. Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:43 PM #4
Dung Beetle
 
 
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Thinking about barrels, if you have been happy with your Dye barrel in the past you will probably still be happy with it today. I have an old freak kit that still works for me.

There is a guy doing a pretty comprehensive comparison of barrel kits in the barrel forum http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3925097

I'm really tempted to pick up a Lapco Fuse myself. Seems like a pretty nice setup.

-Levi
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:50 PM #5
Kryptakronakonalyte
 
 
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Well I imagine my Boomstick would still function but it seems to have small, visible scratches going down the barrel. I'm not sure if this is normal wear and tear but I won't really know for sure until I get the marker operational again. I've been thinking about re-polishing the barrel but am wondering if buying a new barrel setup (more modern) might be a better idea.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:16 AM #6
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If you are going to buy all new parts for this build there are a few companies you should look into that are still making quality parts and therefore still support them if something goes wrong down the line. Lets go down your list...

frame - since you want to go electric, the E2 eblade frame is the best option, the E2 board works well, the Yakuza is very nice though especially if you are going to use an MQ later (though personally MQs are more work than necessary i think and less reliable than a good valve/hammer setup) the Yakuza board just offers more customization in the long run.

reg - the AA Vigilante is a good reg, though the reg seats are becoming hard to find if it ever goes bad. good replacements include the AKA Sidewinder, Palmers Stabilizer, and if you are running low pressure (sub 350psi) even a CP regulator will work ok.

LPR - Palmers micro-rock or AKA SCM are my personal favorites, have used them for years on many builds and they always work great and require very little to no maintenance. the ANS regs are ok, but not great even though I know the guy who designed/manufactured them and the reg seat is also getting harder to come by like the AA Vigilante)

Ram - Palmers Quick Ram or the Belsales Ram are the best options here, Craig at PPS was making a new run of rams last i heard and they come with the added benefit of having a QEV built into the front already. Belsales also work very well and have a very smooth design, but you have to add your own QEV's. also, PPS sells QEV's for rams using 10-32" threads, they are a bit blocky but can be rebuilt if the diaphragm ever goes bad.

Hammer - stock hammer will be fine...especially if you are having it milled for the half-block kit, CCM hammers are also nice because they are polished and have an o-ring in the back to hold the cocking pin in place.

Valve - Palmer LT Valve, AKA Tornado, and Belsales/Eclipse SuperCharger Valve. All 3 of these are great performers, the PPS and Belsales valves are almost identical as far as the way the air passages are milled and both give very good flow, the PPS ones are usually easier to get direct from the factory. The AKA valves are one of the best due to a few quirks in their design, and also work great is trying to run a lower pressure due to the huge air passage in the valve, the downside is they are very expensive.

Front Block - really, up to you...if you dont like the look of the stock block, find one that you do like, they don't offer any performance enhancements really...

Barrel/Mask/Hopper/Air Tank - The boomie you have should work fine, they never go bad...i have tons from back in the day that still shoot great. A more modern good barrel for pretty cheap is the CP barrels, or if you want something lighter try a DeadlyWind Carbon. DW makes barrels that take freak inserts as well. The LAPCO barrels are also a very nice option and also fairly inexpensive like the CP's. Hoppers...Rotors are nice, but will jam if they are dirty, or you have bad paint, the Z2 Prophecy and new Virtue Spire I have been using for a long time and don't have any issues with either. I prefer the Z2 because it is faster and more consistent, plus I trust the technology as it has been around much longer but it is more complicated to take apart than the rotor or spire. Mask...personal preference, I really like the Empire E-Flex and VForce Profiler, I wear a profiler now. Air system...Ninja makes the BEST screw in system on the market, easy to service, very good warranty, and they use the best parts. other good reg to mention is the Crossfire Stealth if you like a shorter reg, but they are more prone to problems, but still very easy to work on.


Now...for the half block...did you just have your guy kinda arbitrarily cut the gun up? if so you should get the measurements from something like a JCurt half block kit and see if it lines up...otherwise you are probably going to have to find a custom shop to make a bolt/sled/rod for you. just a thought, most of the time you get the half-block kit and measurements first and then do the cutting later...

good luck with the build!
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:13 PM #7
Kryptakronakonalyte
 
 
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Thanks for the information! As for the milling, haha no I didn't have my buddy just cut the gun up. I have a half block kit in the mail and I have measurements for milling the body, cutting the slot, as well as milling the hammer. We are just waiting on the kit to arrive Either way, I'm aware that it is a fully custom build so things might need to be adjusted. Luckily, my friend is willing to make brand new parts in his shop based on the dimensions of existing parts anyways so if we mess anything up, I can always have a replacement part made.
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