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Old 02-28-2013, 12:28 PM #820
imguessingurgay
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:07 PM #821
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i work on MANY trucks, 6500 and under. mostly 250s/350s. its really not that big and heavy till you get to medium duty ****.

also its easy money since there is so much more room
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:44 PM #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNforcer View Post
I hate dealing with HD and Large trucks. Everything is just 10x more difficult and a pain in the ***. I'd rather work with the small intricate things on the Audi's at work than a behemoth, lol.
Dad was a diesel mechanic for the NY Times for
20 years. Those jobs sucked . He transferred to working on forklifts after which was heaven in comparison .
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:37 PM #823
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Rotors were to big to turn on our lathe. Pads from the dealer were $400 for the fronts, so basically $100 each. AND it tied up our alignment rack for 3 hours.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:56 PM #824
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You guys were going to machine the rotors?
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:03 PM #825
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They wernt even bad to be honest, but the service manager told me to turn em, and they had machining spec's on mitchell, so I figured why not.

I know on my most jags you have to replace, cant turn
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:54 PM #826
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no on-car brake lathe???? those dont look that big even
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:08 PM #827
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15in rotors....

we have an old *** firestone lathe. our company has tons of money, but that dont really care about our store so much.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:02 PM #828
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NTB is so ghetto, lol. I honestly can't believe that somebody would bring a Land Rover to NTB for a brake job, people are ****ing tards.

I also love the whole cheap *** mindset of turning rotors. Audi strictly prohibits dealers from having lathes, because turning rotors is an ancient practice. Properly matched Pads and Rotors will wear out within a very close time period, negating any usefulness of machining the metal.

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Old 03-05-2013, 05:32 AM #829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imguessingurgay View Post
They wernt even bad to be honest, but the service manager told me to turn em, and they had machining spec's on mitchell, so I figured why not.

I know on my most jags you have to replace, cant turn
Are you sure what you saw wasn't just discard figures?

I don't work for rover, but I honestly can't imagine they develop their rotors, or endorse any type of machining.

That's most higher end vehicles from what I understand. I know for a fact that BMW makes it very clear to us that we not even attempt to machine a rotor for any reason. Our rotors are still stamped with machining specs for discard, but you can't touch them with a lathe.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:21 PM #830
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Quote:
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Are you sure what you saw wasn't just discard figures?

I don't work for rover, but I honestly can't imagine they develop their rotors, or endorse any type of machining.

That's most higher end vehicles from what I understand. I know for a fact that BMW makes it very clear to us that we not even attempt to machine a rotor for any reason. Our rotors are still stamped with machining specs for discard, but you can't touch them with a lathe.
we don't turn rotors on any of the cars we service. vdub, audi, benz, bmw, porsche, jag, rover and lexus. stick a mic to the rotors and they're junk when the pads are on all of em.
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:24 AM #831
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Hey guys, my A/C is making a hissing sound when the compressor is on. I can hear it from inside the car anyways. It always hisses now, it doesn't do it just when the compressor goes on. The air is no longer cold.

The autozone near me rents the full A/C pressure gauges. Should I check pressures first?
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:53 PM #832
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if the compressor kicks on you know you have enough pressure to close the circuit on the low pressure switch, other than that checking pressure is the next step. last one i had "hissing" with the compressor on was a plugged orifice tube due to the dessicant bag in the dryer coming apart.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:36 AM #833
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you are a dessicant bag
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:20 PM #834
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Guess I might as well post again since this place is so lively.

I checked the pressures today, I got 67-69 PSI on the low side, and the high side started out at 150 PSI, but then went down to about 130 PSI and stopped there. It was 86.5* out if this matters much. This was with the car running and the A/C on full blast.


I found a video on youtube from some old mechanic who makes a ton of videos, and there was a part with the low pressure fairly high and the high pressure somewhat low, and he said expansion valve. But I've read elsewhere this is most likely a bad compressor. The compressor engages, I can see the clutch spinning, it clicks when it turns on, and the idle jumps for a second. This seems like the compressor works to me.

It's also a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager if this matters. This car has both front and rear evaporator cores, and two expansion valves. The hissing is actually coming from both the front and rear expansion valves when the compressor is on.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:23 AM #835
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not gonna lie, the first thing i do on every car after i hook up gauges is evac and recharge. you can make an ok guess on the charge of the system using gauges, but i've had many cars show normal or just slightly off pressures like that and have as little as 3oz of refrigerant in the system, which would definitely cause it to not be cold. because the pressures are not equal you know the compressor is sucking and squeezing. make sure it's full, then if it's still acting up you can pull it back down again and using a bowl of ice water and a heat gun or blow dryer you can check the function of the expansion valve.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:25 PM #836
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Quote:
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not gonna lie, the first thing i do on every car after i hook up gauges is evac and recharge. you can make an ok guess on the charge of the system using gauges, but i've had many cars show normal or just slightly off pressures like that and have as little as 3oz of refrigerant in the system, which would definitely cause it to not be cold. because the pressures are not equal you know the compressor is sucking and squeezing. make sure it's full, then if it's still acting up you can pull it back down again and using a bowl of ice water and a heat gun or blow dryer you can check the function of the expansion valve.

Yeah, shops actually have real equipment, not a small bag of tools and a $50 socket set. I wish I had a tank to evacuate it. I already have a can of refrigerant, I was just hesitant to add any more if it was high already, but it's not obviously. I'll go buy a can tap and try it. Thank you.

But what do you mean by "...pull it back down again and using a bowl of ice water..." So I could point the heat gun at the expansion valve I assume, but what's the ice water for?

Thanks for the free help, I'd definitely take it straight to a shop if I had a real income. Not like the shops in Phoenix are short of air conditioning work.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:04 PM #837
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i guess this is directed more at dealerships techs, but anyone can chime in. im currently about half way through my program at UTI, looking to get at least a lot attendant job at a dealership here soon. my question is how acceptable are tattoos in a dealership environment? currently all of mine are covered with just a t-shirt, but just for future reference, what is the policy like? of course for an interview I would be wearing a long sleeve, so i doubt that would have an effect on their decision.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:11 PM #838
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My shop foreman has Tattoo's down both of his arms, I work at an Audi dealership.

It mainly depend on each individual dealership and manager. But usually since we are "second fiddle" and they hide us in the dark closet away from customers it isnt an issue, haha.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:51 PM #839
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Quote:
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Yeah, shops actually have real equipment, not a small bag of tools and a $50 socket set. I wish I had a tank to evacuate it. I already have a can of refrigerant, I was just hesitant to add any more if it was high already, but it's not obviously. I'll go buy a can tap and try it. Thank you.

But what do you mean by "...pull it back down again and using a bowl of ice water..." So I could point the heat gun at the expansion valve I assume, but what's the ice water for?

Thanks for the free help, I'd definitely take it straight to a shop if I had a real income. Not like the shops in Phoenix are short of air conditioning work.
you can remove the expansion valve and use the heat gun and the ice water to change the temperature of the sensing element and watch it move, just like you would a thermostat because in a sense, that's what it is.

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i guess this is directed more at dealerships techs, but anyone can chime in. im currently about half way through my program at UTI, looking to get at least a lot attendant job at a dealership here soon. my question is how acceptable are tattoos in a dealership environment? currently all of mine are covered with just a t-shirt, but just for future reference, what is the policy like? of course for an interview I would be wearing a long sleeve, so i doubt that would have an effect on their decision.
one, i'm sorry.

two, before i left the vdub dealer we had 3 or 4 guys with atleast one half sleeve and 2 or 3 with atleast one full sleeve.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:19 AM #840
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one, i'm sorry.
Hahahaha. I decided last year I'm not gonna waste my time and money going to Wyo or UTI.
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