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Old 02-04-2013, 02:45 AM #1
Jed_za
 
 
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Troubles with G6R

Hey guys ,

First of all , apologies for this being my first post and asking for assistance , but I call upon you guys for some serious help.

I recently bought a Bob Long G6R - 2011 , I upgraded from a SP ION , and it took me almost a year to be able to purchase this marker -
I bought it second hand from someone who I thought was just a friend and now its becoming evident why he wanted to get rid of it so quickly.

I am having difficulty getting the marker to well shoot like a G6R should.
( Should also state here that I'm not the most knowledageable of Poppit Markers )

Some info on the marker :
2011 G6r
Hush bolt with Lo-Pro Pin
68 CF 4500 tank
Prophecy Z2

It seems that the previous owner messed around with both the regs - Yes the LPR - sigh.
Anyway I dont have a Pressure Tester - Getting one and shipping it to South Africa , isn't really feasible and will only get one as a last resort -

So onto the problems -

First problem was the the gun had a cracked feed neck and snapped in half running from the break - After much cost , I shipped in a replacement part.

Second Problem - Not Shooting - it makes almost like a farting noise and doesn't even get the ball out the barrel . Almost like there isn't enough pressure to shoot the ball - I did check that it wasn't a ball too large bore size for the barrel , and it wasn't that .
The bolt does fully cycle .
After acting like monkey from 2001 Space Odyssey wielding a Alan Key , I got it to shoot , but it would shoot alll over the show , especially noting that it would have a massive first shot drop off.
Target FPS - 260
Was getting - 170 , 240 , 310 , 340 , 255 , 258 , 210 ,

Third Problem : I have no idea what board is in here - I assume it is the TADEO board - as it has no LCD screen - but the problem is that there are more settings on the marker than there are in the manual
- Also I cannot set the default settings on the marker
For example : The default for Bolt Delay is 14 , but the marker settings max out at 10.

These are the Different Colour / Settings that will help to be able to help Identify the board .
Green -
Purple -
Yellow -
Blue -
Red -
White -
Light Blue -
Green Flashing -
Pink Flasing -
Yellow Flashing
Blue Flashing -
Red Flashing -
White Flashing -
Light Blue Flasing -
Green Double Flashing -
Pink Double Flashing -
Yellow Double Flashing -
Blue Double Flashing -
Blue/Yellow -
Green/Yellow -
Red/Yellow -

If anybody can help me - it would be amazing !
I would ask at our local stores here in South Africa - But the G6r isn't a very popular gun here, nor do any of the stores stock any Bob Long Parts .
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:29 AM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed_za View Post
Second Problem - Not Shooting - it makes almost like a farting noise and doesn't even get the ball out the barrel . Almost like there isn't enough pressure to shoot the ball
Sounds like you need to bite the bullet and get a pressure tester. Only way to be sure your pressures are where you need them to be.

I would set the pressures correctly or find someone with a tester you can borrow and then see if you have issues.

Have you tried lifting up the grips to see what markings are on the board? I would assume it should be a Tadao Odoshi.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:47 AM #3
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Originally Posted by turmoil View Post
Sounds like you need to bite the bullet and get a pressure tester. Only way to be sure your pressures are where you need them to be.

I would set the pressures correctly or find someone with a tester you can borrow and then see if you have issues.

Have you tried lifting up the grips to see what markings are on the board? I would assume it should be a Tadao Odoshi.
You can use the lurker method to sweet-spot your regulators, and it will work even better than a pressure tester.
Lurker method of sweetspotting regs.

1: Back out both regs or Zero out both the LPR and HPR to 0psi
2: Raise HPR slightly only to set LPR for cycling
3: Raise LPR to fully cycling ~45psi or so
4: Raise HPR until velocity begins to stop rising as you increase pressure
5: Raise LPR to desired velocity
6: Lower HPR a bit, then raise if necessary... you're trying to find the best HPR setting at the LPR setting you have. This may put your velocity over 300/285
7: Lower LPR slightly to field velocity

I can't say for certain what board you have, but based on the color sequence, you do not have a stock board. You should remove the grips and see what sort of board it is. My money is that it could be virtue; those boards have a LOT of settings on them. Once you find out, you can easily find the manual for them online and print it off.

It could be that something is set wrong on the board, or that you need to give it a good cleaning and lube it up again.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:09 AM #4
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It might be the Ebisu Tadao board, does it have a USB port? You can get the manual for that at www.tadaotech.com

As for shooting all over the place a tester would help but given your situation that might cost more than you want. If you're careful with lurker's method you should be able to get it into the ball park.

If that doesn't fix it replace the ram orings.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:19 AM #5
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have you tryed cleaning and relubing the regs?
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:38 PM #6
Jed_za
 
 
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Thanks guys ,

Looks like the board is a EBISU Board - and have connected it to the PC and reset all defaults.
I have contacted other known G6R owners in SA ( both of them ) to try get a hold of a Pressure Tester - Hopefully will hear back from then soon , if not , I'll have to order one , seems from reading the other threads they seem really important-

Going to service the regs , as soon as I can find an imperial alan key set , everything down here is all metric and I don't want to strip the screws.
If I don't get that all going by game day Sunday , I'll try the Lurker method to hopefully get it all working

Thanks very much for the help guys - much appreciated !!
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:59 AM #7
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Clean the ram and use a dow 33. I used a dow 55 and it had the same problem as yours.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:11 PM #8
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Clean the ram and use a dow 33. I used a dow 55 and it had the same problem as yours.
dont listen to this guy. you should always be using dow 55 on the ram.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:34 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trigger Finger View Post
dont listen to this guy. you should always be using dow 55 on the ram.
.

a pressure tester isn't "needed" but it doesn't sound like you are familiar with intimidators and setting the regs. I would recommend getting one until you figure it out.

get an oring kit and also some dow55. replace the ram orings and bolt orings.

The g6r is stupid easy to maintain, i would tear the marker down as soon as you can get the correct allens and clean the entire thing. I haven't had a problem in 1.5 years with my main g6r
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:28 PM #10
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My thoughts board is a tadao odishi. you have no idea what the regs are set at look in stickys for lurker method yes i know its not the best but it will get you some what close on your fps and last but not least your NOID imo once you run HPA on this gun you set a count down on the noid some are lucky most are not.im going threw some of your problems aswell i managed to narrow it down to the noid
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:09 PM #11
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Originally Posted by keithstone66 View Post
My thoughts board is a tadao odishi. you have no idea what the regs are set at look in stickys for lurker method yes i know its not the best but it will get you some what close on your fps and last but not least your NOID imo once you run HPA on this gun you set a count down on the noid some are lucky most are not.im going threw some of your problems aswell i managed to narrow it down to the noid
HP tanks dont ruin noids. the regs on the gun are more than capable to handle a hp tank, its the seals that are not supposed to survive the higher pressure. I dont understand how you came to that conclusion but you are 100% percent wrong here.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:32 PM #12
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well i guess your one of the lucky ones. last i checked theres an oring that seals the noid on a 2011 g6r. its not your normal oring but its still a seal so if you slam it with 800psi tank granted your regs can handle it your still over pressuring the gun period and everybody can comment on reg pressure let me see you run this gun on a tank that outputs at 800 plus for a season with no problems
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:37 PM #13
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Even if the HPR on the marker for whatever reason fails, the LPR is still going to regulate that pressure to 70-80psi. Though it may spike some due to the large increase in pressure but unless it fails too the solenoid won't receive that 800psi.

If your LPR reg fails its only going to output what the HPR is giving it sub 200psi.

There are alot of things that would have to go wrong before the solenoid is in danger.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:39 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithstone66 View Post
well i guess your one of the lucky ones. last i checked theres an oring that seals the noid on a 2011 g6r. its not your normal oring but its still a seal so if you slam it with 800psi tank granted your regs can handle it your still over pressuring the gun period and everybody can comment on reg pressure let me see you run this gun on a tank that outputs at 800 plus for a season with no problems
but what you dont understand is that the air doesnt go straight to the noid from the tank. it passes through the hpr or lpr before going to the noid. like i said before the regs lower the pressure down to a more manageable pressure for the noid. also i am not one of those lucky ones as you say because i have been running my g6r with either a lp or slp reg since ive had it. i also use dow55 on everything and bought a Pressure Tester. ive put close to 80 cases through mine with out any issues since i got it.

thank you Gamer!!!!! finally someone proves my point.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:46 PM #15
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yes it is but it is still part of the system there are no fail safes on the regs unless you mill a pressure tester to let you attach your barrel and read the pressures your beat i understand the variables like i said run this gun for a season on a 800 psi tank with no problems
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:50 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithstone66 View Post
yes it is but it is still part of the system there are no fail safes on the regs unless you mill a pressure tester to let you attach your barrel and read the pressures your beat i understand the variables like i said run this gun for a season on a 800 psi tank with no problems
ok then explain to me why all the previous generations of timmys were able to run with a HP tank for a season with no issues. last time i checked the vice uses the same noid as the g6r as does the gen 1 marqs, they all are fine with running on HP. The air passage way seals are the ONLY reason the g6r and vics need to be run on LP.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:55 PM #17
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so an old school timmy has the same air passages and body style as a 2011 g6r really
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:04 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithstone66 View Post
so an old school timmy has the same air passages and body style as a 2011 g6r really
Same concept yes, and the same path to where the air needs to go first before the solenoid..(Just not the same path design aka internally milled channels.)
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:11 PM #19
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Same concept yes, and the same path to where the air needs to go first before the solenoid..(Just not the same path design aka internally milled channels.)
this is what i was saying. in every gun the air passes through the hpr before reaching the noid.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:21 PM #20
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so the air channels didnt change from macro to macroless trying to understand your concept when you go that route since the main point that always comes out SLP is not need LP is fine when we answer that most frequent post
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:29 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithstone66 View Post
so the air channels didnt change from macro to macroless trying to understand your concept when you go that route since the main point that always comes out SLP is not need LP is fine when we answer that most frequent post
No and if you would have read my above post about what has to fail for the solenoid to be in danger you would have knew that. Or if you knew how your marker operates that would had been a dead giveaway...


The reason LP or SLP is recommended is for the seals on the ASA to Frame and Frame to body. Again knowing how the marker operates helps alot when understanding the marker...
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