Microswitch problem on 127.4 frenzy

tacxplosion · 12-02-2011, 01:13 PM

Looking for a little help with this one, mechanical problems are seldom so for me, but this thing has me stumped.

I recently bought an older style Alias (press-fit feedneck and milling under the barrel threads) and the microswitch on the board activates the 'noid well enough, but sometimes (about 40 % of the time) on the trigger's return stroke, the microswitch will activate it as well, kind of like autoresponse.

The switch was dirty with old paint when I got it so I thought that might be the cause, took the metal flap off and cleaned it, then put the metal flap back on... still the same.

At this point I'm considering replacing the microswitch with a wrath switch I have lying around if possible. Anyone know if it's only soldered to the board at the 3 connectors on the back, or is there anything else it's soldered to? Anyone ever try this before? word of advice (even if it's "don't do it")?

I would like to be able to use the board on a spimmy project I have (board & frame are all I'm missing), I currently have a replacement coming in for the Alias. All it's good for right now is ramping or f/a, both of which I despise with a passion, I'm a semi only player.

SKI008 · 12-02-2011, 01:25 PM

I do not have a timmy in front of me to verify but I am almost 100% positive the only thing the switch is connected to is the board via the pins.

wikkid · 03-01-2013, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacxplosion

Looking for a little help with this one, mechanical problems are seldom so for me, but this thing has me stumped.

I recently bought an older style Alias (press-fit feedneck and milling under the barrel threads) and the microswitch on the board activates the 'noid well enough, but sometimes (about 40 % of the time) on the trigger's return stroke, the microswitch will activate it as well, kind of like autoresponse.

The switch was dirty with old paint when I got it so I thought that might be the cause, took the metal flap off and cleaned it, then put the metal flap back on... still the same.

At this point I'm considering replacing the microswitch with a wrath switch I have lying around if possible. Anyone know if it's only soldered to the board at the 3 connectors on the back, or is there anything else it's soldered to? Anyone ever try this before? word of advice (even if it's "don't do it")?

I would like to be able to use the board on a spimmy project I have (board & frame are all I'm missing), I currently have a replacement coming in for the Alias. All it's good for right now is ramping or f/a, both of which I despise with a passion, I'm a semi only player.

What did you end up finding out on that? I have the same issue.... And any advice on where to pickup a cheap microswitch?

Pm me please

StyngRay2 · 03-01-2013, 10:23 AM

paintball kingdom

tacxplosion · 03-01-2013, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StyngRay2

paintball kingdom

Those only work with the 2k2 style boards, you need the bent prong style switches for 2k5/2k6/defiant2 boards.

I tried cleaning it with acetone and rubbing alcohol to no avail. I haven't replaced it yet because I got a 127.5c board which is now on there and a UTB for my project, it will have to wait until I feel comfortable enough soldering PCB's and I get some money to put into the 2k5 timmy I'll be selling it with (also needs a new 'noid, the coil's dying, good thing is though: the body's been tapped for alias set screws and the air paths have been bored out on the sleeve in case larger ID hose is desired).

If you'd like to give soldering a new switch a try, you can get them from zdspb:
http://www.zdspb.com/store/elect_switches.html

StyngRay2 · 03-01-2013, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacxplosion

Those only work with the 2k2 style boards, you need the bent prong style switches for 2k5/2k6/defiant2 boards.

I tried cleaning it with acetone and rubbing alcohol to no avail. I haven't replaced it yet because I got a 127.5c board which is now on there and a UTB for my project, it will have to wait until I feel comfortable enough soldering PCB's and I get some money to put into the 2k5 timmy I'll be selling it with (also needs a new 'noid, the coil's dying, good thing is though: the body's been tapped for alias set screws and the air paths have been bored out on the sleeve in case larger ID hose is desired).

If you'd like to give soldering a new switch a try, you can get them from zdspb:
http://www.zdspb.com/store/elect_switches.html

couldnt you just bend the prongs and solder it onto the board? i only ask because i had a couple boards that I had a friend solder these same switches onto but they still didnt work....just thought the boards were fubard....but could the switch be different on the inside as far as the contacts...?

tacxplosion · 03-01-2013, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StyngRay2

couldnt you just bend the prongs and solder it onto the board? i only ask because i had a couple boards that I had a friend solder these same switches onto but they still didnt work....just thought the boards were fubard....but could the switch be different on the inside as far as the contacts...?

It should work, not sure how well aligned they might turn out, but as long as they're properly soldered, it shouldn't be an issue for them to activate; they're essentially the same thing.