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Old 02-21-2013, 09:07 AM #1618
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M5 and RS4 are the cheaper Tubis, I believe. They are like $5k+ for most of their exhausts (which typically go on more expensive cars). Friend has one on his R8 and it is probably the best thing I have ever heard.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:08 AM #1619
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That's more than the entire exhaust for my vette, lol
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:09 AM #1620
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http://www.evosport.com/product/prod...VO.EXH.B60.H01
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:14 AM #1621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowbudgethero View Post
ok, I was talking about Tubi exhaust and you're talking evosport headers. So I am kind of confused. But about those 1) they seem to have come down in price since I owned the car, 2) word is the biggest gains come from deleting the cat that is attached to the factory header. A company called race precision (RPI) does it, which will also make power and cost less. Plus the factory header appears to be a pretty nice equal length header, it just has a restrictive cat attached to it. The evosport header does not appear to be equal length. 3) evosport has or did have severe cash flow issues, so I would be afraid to buy anything from them as I may never receive it. They were asking Black Series owners for investments and stuff.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:16 AM #1622
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Tubi:
http://www.championmotorsport.com/pr...5c06-003-a.htm

Their midpipe is another $1300 but I think you could use anyone's midpipe and achieve the same sound. The mufflers are key.

Also, valved Aventador exhaust is $9k
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:18 AM #1623
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equal length doesn't always mean more power,
didn't know about evosports financial situation,

thought tubi meant tubular headers, don't ask me why didn't finish coffee yet
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:26 AM #1624
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No? I thought equal length was always the goal. I'd be curious to read any material you may be able to link on the subject.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:31 AM #1625
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Quote:
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No? I thought equal length was always the goal. I'd be curious to read any material you may be able to link on the subject.
Equal length is the easiest to make without tuning and it's pretty close, but the best headers don't always end up exactly equal length. It depends a lot on the type of motor and firing order.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:38 AM #1626
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well is it safe to say that equal length is going to typically be better than most commercially available headers unless somehow by making all the tubes a random length they happen to stumble upon the ideal combination due to the firing order?

I mean looking at the two above, evosport and stock, it appears that evosport has just run 5 tubes off the exhaust ports straight into the collector with little regard given to the length of the tubes. Stock appears to have significant consideration to the length of the tubes, but also some sharper bends that I understand are not ideal in exhausts.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:43 AM #1627
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RPI solution:


why they charge over $5k for this is beyond me, but it does seem like a good idea.

graph:


It appears to make the same power as the other headers on the top end, but with a little fatter curve through the mid range. Dinan did modified headers on some of the stroker builds too, but I haven't ever seen them.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:22 AM #1628
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Yeah if you really want to mess with it, you have to do a lot of gas flow/pressure/velocity. Equal length is a good guide, but the bending of the tubes and diameter affect velocity, in which equal length wouldn't theoretically mean equal.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:14 PM #1629
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Are they selling the whole headers or did they cut up a stock M5 manifold and do a cat delete?

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that's a 996 turbo, not a boxster
wow im a tool...



By the way what is the deal with these eBay MAFs? Im not looking for performance and it wouldn't come to the track with me, but would it be sufficient for some street miles? Probably gets horrible mileage. Would it last ~1 year? Anything electronic and ebay scares me. Thinking it would be a good spare/back up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261033443013... 4.m1423.l2649
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:25 PM #1630
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Background:
Replaced OEM battery about 2mo ago.
Car refused to turn over on Tuesday, took 4 attempts.
First 3 attempts just a click, no signs of attempted ignition. All internal/external electronics work (lights, turn signals, radio, a/c etc).
Final attempt, ignition.
From Tuesday until this morning I was getting mixed starts, strong/normal and weak. The weak starts sounded like a dead battery would.

Figured Id take it to the dealership to see if its the starter/alternator since the battery is still new. If it isnt either, I must have a power draw from somewhere.

This morning everything is going fine including 4 cold starts with no problem.. get to the stealership for a once over, and the car isn't turning over anymore.
I get a jump box and it turns over fine.
Must be a dead battery? Go to Autozone and get/install brand new battery.
No start there, even after installation.
Jump box, couple weak attempts and then ignition. Maybe the battery had to charge from sitting in the shelf?
Get back over to dealership, no ignition. Just electronic starts like the initial issue.
Check battery terminals, everything is secure.
Maybe the new battery is already dead somehow?
Voltage reader: 900/750cold amps or something, more than enough power.
Attempt to start car.. Click, click, click.
Maybe its the starter? Tap that a couple times. Nothing.
Lead tech thinks its a bad starter.
Secondary tech grabs a jump box anyways..
Jump box again, clean start.
No one knows how/why...


My idea, problem:
The car isn't pulling from the battery in the rear, for whatever reason (help!)

My idea for probable cause:
Power is only being sent for ignition from the front battery terminal and after the car starts, power is being drawn from the battery.

Theres something happening between front and rear terminals thats causing this or the ECU isn't functioning properly?

Probable solution:
No idea..

Please help, thanks
Ive posted on e46f and bf.c, too
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Last edited by bubbleboy016 : 02-23-2013 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:00 PM #1631
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The battery doesn't have a big box on the top of it, no. I thought maybe one of the fuses had blown so I just replaced (just came back from outside) the OBC, Thief protection and starter interlock fuses. So they all check out.

The voltmeter at the dealership said it was a brand new battery, which is to be expected since I had just bought it, but I don't have access to one here at home, no. and I agree, I hate electronics with a passion.

Someone on bf.c posted EWS and when I first posted my problem/scare here on Tuesday someone suggested EWS then, too. But can/would the EWS no to differentiate between power being generated at the front terminal verse the rear battery? Even if it could, I would think that would just be a reason for it to not start... because then all a jacker would need would be a jump pack and a key that fit?
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:22 AM #1632
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get a voltmeter and start pulling fuses
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:25 AM #1633
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There was a nasty bit of corrosion under the b+ terminal cover. It looked like my angel eyes wiring overheated and caused the rubber to melt and that caused all sorts of issues. I cleaned the terminal and disconnected the angel eyes for now and it starts every time
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:57 PM #1634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Featherlite 07 View Post
Tubi:
http://www.championmotorsport.com/pr...5c06-003-a.htm

Their midpipe is another $1300 but I think you could use anyone's midpipe and achieve the same sound. The mufflers are key.

Also, valved Aventador exhaust is $9k


I had the tubi mid pipe muffler on my e46 m3. The tips are ugly but the sound is amazing.

Im selling the muffler if anyone is interested
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:12 PM #1635
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Kid I know is buying an e36 m3. Currently has an aa exhaust and he's thinking about selling it. Hope I can pick it up cheap if he does sell
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:40 AM #1636
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:49 AM #1637
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Quote:
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Kid I know is buying an e36 m3. Currently has an aa exhaust and he's thinking about selling it. Hope I can pick it up cheap if he does sell
do it, s52 with the simple bolt-ons are fantastic motors
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:03 AM #1638
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