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Old 02-20-2013, 09:31 PM #1534
AirSin2000
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Ouch.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:24 AM #1535
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Finally got to put all the changes to use over the weekend:









It was absolutely flawless until I finally busted the weak link of the entire rig, my rear diff. I expected it to happen soon so it's not a big deal. The axle is staying but it's getting much, much stronger--35 spline ARB, 35 spline chromolly shafts, cryo treated JK Rubicon gears (near Dana 60 pinion thickness), and the housing will get a bit more trussing and possibly a backbone later on. I'll also be adding load bolts to the diff cover. It will laugh at 37's.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:13 AM #1536
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You have an 8.8 in the rear, right?
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:08 AM #1537
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Quote:
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You have an 8.8 in the rear, right?
No. Notice I'm installing JK Rubi D44 gears into my rear axle--those would be impossible to swap into an 8.8.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:16 PM #1538
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Seems like alot of money and time to not have one tons. I'm also surprised the front R&P didnt go first.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:36 PM #1539
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Seems like alot of money and time to not have one tons. I'm also surprised the front R&P didnt go first.
Eh, when you have as much time into these axles as I do, there's no reason not to run them into the ground. It's easy to say "shoulda gone tons" until you look at the total cost to do it the way I want to do it--and no, I'm not talking about a Ford HP60 and FF14 bolt. The next axles under this rig will be Currie 9's--HP up front, LP in the rear. You know how much it would cost me to put a pair of those under this thing? With me doing all of the work, including the gears, $10k.

Also, remember that the Jeep was down for 9 months last year and I missed the whole wheeling season. Spending $1500 on my current rear axle right now is much easier, quicker, and more convenient. I won't miss this season, the axle will be built to handle 37's without a single issue, and when it'll bring $2000+ when it comes time to sell it. Since picking it up, it's cost me about $2500 so that's not bad. As for the HP30 up front, that thing has been a champ. It's been beat on for the past 4 years and hasn't had one single issue. I keep fresh ball joints and unit bearings in it and it just does its thing. The last thing I do to it will be extending the truss down the long tube, tie the upper link bridge into the center section to increase rigidity, and weld up some C gussets. I have no worries about that axle on 37's.

And plus, I wheel smart and don't care for too much throttle....that wouldn't change with stronger axles. These are lightweight and have great clearance and are as strong as I can make them. Until I have a very good reason to go a different route and have a fatter wallet, these will stay.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:39 PM #1540
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We could all use a fatter wallet.

Either way, its a super nice rig. I've sorta followed your thread on JF. That's where I coulda sworn you had an 8.8 in the rear, or maybe I'm just too damn tired.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:05 AM #1541
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lifting the heep today!
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:52 AM #1542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirSin2000 View Post
We could all use a fatter wallet.

Either way, its a super nice rig. I've sorta followed your thread on JF. That's where I coulda sworn you had an 8.8 in the rear, or maybe I'm just too damn tired.
I've thrown a couple 8.8's under a couple TJ's so maybe you saw a picture of that or something.

Speaking of the wallet, mine just took a hit--ARB RD147, 35 spline TF shafts, ARB compressor, JK gears, and all necessary bearings, shims, etc. ordered. Ouch. Oh well, it'll be about as strong as you can make a 44.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:04 AM #1543
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Cool to see that there are people on here with a love of offroading!! I own 3 jeeps, but I'll post pics of 2. I have a '99 TJ (aka: li'l man), '07 JK (aka: rattle can), and a '78 CJ-5 (aka: o'l green).

The '99 TJ is my crawler/ trail rig. 46" mickey's, 16" kings, atlas 4.0, rear steer... I have been building this rig for 7 years now! It's a beast!









My beutiful fiance, she goes on every wheeling trip!!!


My '07 JK, I should say used to be my, I gave it to my fiance when we got engaged... She had a JK, but it was 2wd and not as cool as mine so we sold hers and I gave her mine! 37's, with a ton of bolt on junk.... Used to wheel it, not anymore though...


I used to run military tires on it, but when my fiance started driving it I wanted something more highway friendly....


The most current pic... We used it and my trailer in a parade for the school at the end of the year last year...
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:36 PM #1544
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cool jeeps!
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:05 PM #1545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
Eh, when you have as much time into these axles as I do, there's no reason not to run them into the ground. It's easy to say "shoulda gone tons" until you look at the total cost to do it the way I want to do it--and no, I'm not talking about a Ford HP60 and FF14 bolt. The next axles under this rig will be Currie 9's--HP up front, LP in the rear. You know how much it would cost me to put a pair of those under this thing? With me doing all of the work, including the gears, $10k.

Also, remember that the Jeep was down for 9 months last year and I missed the whole wheeling season. Spending $1500 on my current rear axle right now is much easier, quicker, and more convenient. I won't miss this season, the axle will be built to handle 37's without a single issue, and when it'll bring $2000+ when it comes time to sell it. Since picking it up, it's cost me about $2500 so that's not bad. As for the HP30 up front, that thing has been a champ. It's been beat on for the past 4 years and hasn't had one single issue. I keep fresh ball joints and unit bearings in it and it just does its thing. The last thing I do to it will be extending the truss down the long tube, tie the upper link bridge into the center section to increase rigidity, and weld up some C gussets. I have no worries about that axle on 37's.

And plus, I wheel smart and don't care for too much throttle....that wouldn't change with stronger axles. These are lightweight and have great clearance and are as strong as I can make them. Until I have a very good reason to go a different route and have a fatter wallet, these will stay.
How do you figure 10k into a 14 bolt or D60's??? Thats insane, at the most I could build two axles for 5k including custom chromolly shafts and all. Just start off with a pair of axles from a junk yard and use their shells and install all new internals. Or you can make hybrid axles using A 14 bolt rear and a Dana 50 front and build one for about $2500 total investment if you did all the welding. There are a lot of options out there if you are capable of building it.
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:10 PM #1546
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On the hybrid axles you could shorten or lengthen the axle sleeves by welding a coupling or shorten the same way, it just sounds a little expensive to spend 10 grand on a pair of axles unless you bought brand new axles from a factory with isn't always the best way to go. I wish I had the money for axles and all but if your drive-line isn't beefed up then whats the point? Instead of shattering U-joints or twisting a drive shaft you'd blow a tranny, transfer case, or motor. that's another reason why I wouldn't go 1 tons in your aspect. Unless you already have an almost bullet proof drive-line. You can make a built d30 or 35 carry a 33" tire just about anywhere without completely destroying it if you build it correctly.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:52 PM #1547
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finished lifting my XJ. 5" taller now, and just finished my transfer case drop tonight! Wheeling this saturday
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:25 AM #1548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickropes View Post
How do you figure 10k into a 14 bolt or D60's??? Thats insane, at the most I could build two axles for 5k including custom chromolly shafts and all. Just start off with a pair of axles from a junk yard and use their shells and install all new internals. Or you can make hybrid axles using A 14 bolt rear and a Dana 50 front and build one for about $2500 total investment if you did all the welding. There are a lot of options out there if you are capable of building it.
Did you not read the whole post? Try again.

I could build a 14b or 10.25 the way I want if for about $2000, maybe $2500. It's the front that's pricey and the only route I would go up there is a late model Ford SD HP60 or, preferably, HP9. I take into consideration steering links, ends, brakes, steering arms, shafts, ball joints, etc. into that estimate. The 9 would obviously be quite a bit pricier than the 60. Remember, it costs money to do things right....they aren't going under a beat up, trail-only YJ that can get away with less-than-ideal execution.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickropes View Post
On the hybrid axles you could shorten or lengthen the axle sleeves by welding a coupling or shorten the same way, it just sounds a little expensive to spend 10 grand on a pair of axles unless you bought brand new axles from a factory with isn't always the best way to go. I wish I had the money for axles and all but if your drive-line isn't beefed up then whats the point? Instead of shattering U-joints or twisting a drive shaft you'd blow a tranny, transfer case, or motor. that's another reason why I wouldn't go 1 tons in your aspect. Unless you already have an almost bullet proof drive-line. You can make a built d30 or 35 carry a 33" tire just about anywhere without completely destroying it if you build it correctly.
I wouldn't bother shortening or widening existing housings but that's just me. I know how--hell I've had my hand in shortening a 44--but I want to go wider in the future. As for my transfer case, it's about as stout as you can make a 231--6 pinion planetary, wide chain, JB Conv output/tail housing. Not worried about the tranny or motor.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:44 AM #1549
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:53 AM #1550
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Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
Did you not read the whole post? Try again.

I could build a 14b or 10.25 the way I want if for about $2000, maybe $2500. It's the front that's pricey and the only route I would go up there is a late model Ford SD HP60 or, preferably, HP9. I take into consideration steering links, ends, brakes, steering arms, shafts, ball joints, etc. into that estimate. The 9 would obviously be quite a bit pricier than the 60. Remember, it costs money to do things right....they aren't going under a beat up, trail-only YJ that can get away with less-than-ideal execution.

I wouldn't bother shortening or widening existing housings but that's just me. I know how--hell I've had my hand in shortening a 44--but I want to go wider in the future. As for my transfer case, it's about as stout as you can make a 231--6 pinion planetary, wide chain, JB Conv output/tail housing. Not worried about the tranny or motor.
IMO, I wouldn't waste money on a set of spyder 9's for a full bodied rig. It's a lot of money for no more strength than tons. Also people go with 9's for weight and turning radius, if your full bodied, then weight isn't much concern and you can do a set of crane knuckles wich would increase your turning radius on a d60 by quite a bit.....

Or you can always go unimog 404's... that is what my '99 TJ used to have... Better turning radius than tons, more strength than tons (stock to stock), low low gearing, 6" or so more axle clearence than all others, and selectable lockers.... A li'l price initially, but cheaper than built tons or spyder 9's!

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Old 02-28-2013, 12:03 PM #1551
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Did you not read the whole post? Try again.

I could build a 14b or 10.25 the way I want if for about $2000, maybe $2500. It's the front that's pricey and the only route I would go up there is a late model Ford SD HP60 or, preferably, HP9. I take into consideration steering links, ends, brakes, steering arms, shafts, ball joints, etc. into that estimate. The 9 would obviously be quite a bit pricier than the 60. Remember, it costs money to do things right....they aren't going under a beat up, trail-only YJ that can get away with less-than-ideal execution.

I wouldn't bother shortening or widening existing housings but that's just me. I know how--hell I've had my hand in shortening a 44--but I want to go wider in the future. As for my transfer case, it's about as stout as you can make a 231--6 pinion planetary, wide chain, JB Conv output/tail housing. Not worried about the tranny or motor.
I understand your reasoning and its the same issue alot of my friends are currently running into. Its also why there is a spydertrax housing and two 9" axles in my garage.

I also imagine its a tad bit different when all you do with the truck is wheel Johnson Valley and occasionally Rubicon or Fordyce. This hobby is much too expensive.
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:07 PM #1552
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Quote:
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IMO, I wouldn't waste money on a set of spyder 9's for a full bodied rig. It's a lot of money for no more strength than tons. Also people go with 9's for weight and turning radius, if your full bodied, then weight isn't much concern and you can do a set of crane knuckles wich would increase your turning radius on a d60 by quite a bit.....

Or you can always go unimog 404's... that is what my '99 TJ used to have... Better turning radius than tons, more strength than tons (stock to stock), low low gearing, 6" or so more axle clearence than all others, and selectable lockers.... A li'l price initially, but cheaper than built tons or spyder 9's!
You wouldn't but to me it's not a waste. And I'd probably use Currie HP cases and either Currie or Ruffstuff housings....no Spidertrax stuff, even though Spider 9's are awesome. They're the perfect axle for a weight-conscience TJ on 37's--durable, light, tight packaging, easy to weld to, and very strong. Again, this is not a trail-only rig so mogs are out. I drive this thing to and from work, out of state to different parks and trails, and downtown to dinner. I'll build a buggy or Juggy one of these days and that's what I'll have all the fun in....until then, I shoot for this TJ to be the total package and it's about there for me. To many it doesn't make sense but I love the challenge of a daily driven Jeep that doesn't get trailered and can wheel just about anywhere. That's been the goal for the last 5 years so it's not gonna change.
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:09 PM #1553
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I understand your reasoning and its the same issue alot of my friends are currently running into. Its also why there is a spydertrax housing and two 9" axles in my garage.

I also imagine its a tad bit different when all you do with the truck is wheel Johnson Valley and occasionally Rubicon or Fordyce. This hobby is much too expensive.
on the 9's.

We've got great wheeling in the midwest but it's not JV. If I lived in Cali then you bet I'd probably have two different rigs--this TJ and a dedicated buggy. A very functional multi-purpose Jeep is easier to do here but plenty do it out there as well.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:53 PM #1554
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You wouldn't but to me it's not a waste. And I'd probably use Currie HP cases and either Currie or Ruffstuff housings....no Spidertrax stuff, even though Spider 9's are awesome. They're the perfect axle for a weight-conscience TJ on 37's--durable, light, tight packaging, easy to weld to, and very strong. Again, this is not a trail-only rig so mogs are out. I drive this thing to and from work, out of state to different parks and trails, and downtown to dinner. I'll build a buggy or Juggy one of these days and that's what I'll have all the fun in....until then, I shoot for this TJ to be the total package and it's about there for me. To many it doesn't make sense but I love the challenge of a daily driven Jeep that doesn't get trailered and can wheel just about anywhere. That's been the goal for the last 5 years so it's not gonna change.
Understandable! There is a big difference between trailer queens like mine and dual purpose rigs like yours! My JK used to be like that, but luckily before I really started blowing $$ on it I got my TJ trail worthy. It's been so long since I wheeled a rig I had to rely on, I probably wouldn't even know how to do it with out breaking something anymore!! lmao...
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