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Old 06-20-2012, 05:04 PM #1
homerj
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Valve flip...

So I just traded for an f8 knowing it had a valve leak. When I went to take it out it was really hard. I finally got it out & found that the valve had gotten deformed. 2 questions. 1 - should I go ahead & do the valve flip (flat side up?) right away when I get the new valve or have they improved them since the f8 was released & 2 - if the new valve won't seal because the inside of the lower tube has some surface scratches from pushing out the deformed valve is there anything that can be done?
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:13 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homerj View Post
So I just traded for an f8 knowing it had a valve leak. When I went to take it out it was really hard. I finally got it out & found that the valve had gotten deformed. 2 questions. 1 - should I go ahead & do the valve flip (flat side up?) right away when I get the new valve or have they improved them since the f8 was released & 2 - if the new valve won't seal because the inside of the lower tube has some surface scratches from pushing out the deformed valve is there anything that can be done?
I tried the valve flip with one of my F8s and it always had a very slight leak that I just couldn't fix. Flipped the valve back to stock orientation and no leak. I have both of mine in stock orientation now and will be sticking with it.

As for a new valve - it is the same design/materials as when the marker was released so.......Don't know what to tell you. No redesign - if that is what you are asking.

Lastly, depends on the scratches whether you will be able to get the valve to seal or not. That is irrelevent to the orientation of the valve. The contact points of the valve are cylindrical within the marker so valve flip or not doesn't make a difference. It will all come down to the depth of the scratches. If they are deep and the outer o-ring on the valve can't seal off, you are pretty much S.O.L.
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:18 PM #3
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These valves are solid steel.I'm not saying it's not deformed but damn I don't know what it would take to do that. I woundn't flip valve, it's designed for the set screw on the flat side.You won't get any benefit by flipping it around as you're limited by the size of exhaust hole in gun body going into bolt anyway. Clean lower tube out and If you have any dow55, try that on valve orings to swell them.If it still leaks, maybe try a slightly bigger oring on valve.Check home depot or lowes plumbing section for orings if stock ones leak

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Old 06-20-2012, 05:25 PM #4
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Quote:
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These valves are solid steel.I'm not saying it's not deformed but damn I don't know what it would take to do that. I woundn't flip valve, it's designed for the set screw on the flat side.You won't get any benefit by flipping it around as you're limited by the size of exhaust hole in gun body going into bolt anyway. Clean lower tube out and If you have any dow55, try that on valve orings to swell them.If it still leaks, maybe try a slightly bigger oring on valve.Check home depot or lowes plumbing section for orings
I honestly don't know how it got that way either but it was pretty much stuck in there & I had to force it out. I have an old broken valve from an f7 that's unusable but slid in smooth ad butter. I ordered a new valve this morning. Hopefully it'll still seal.
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:29 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by van457 View Post
These valves are solid steel.I'm not saying it's not deformed but damn I don't know what it would take to do that. I woundn't flip valve, it's designed for the set screw on the flat side.You won't get any benefit by flipping it around as you're limited by the size of exhaust hole in gun body going into bolt anyway. Clean lower tube out and If you have any dow55, try that on valve orings to swell them.If it still leaks, maybe try a slightly bigger oring on valve.Check home depot or lowes plumbing section for orings
Yup, pretty hard to deform one of those valves but I'm sure it can be done. The valve flip is to try and prevent the retaining screw from breaking the lip of the valve on the ram direction side. If the valve is not securely in place, the force of the ram hitting it over and over can force the whole valve toward the poppet end and the metal lip on the cutout of the valve can break as it is being forced into the retaining screw. If the valve is flipped, what was the exhaust hole of the valve becomes the hole for the retaining screw to sit in, giving a more robust edge for the retaining screw.

I'm also not so sure there is enough room for a larger o-ring unless maybe one with a larger cross-sectional diameter. Those valves are pretty snug with the stock o-ring size when taking out/putting into place. Some Dow 55 may help though. Better than having paperweight or doing some serious work on the surface where the valve sits..
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:31 PM #6
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Also check the oring that the poppet seats against in the valve face, a bad oring here and it'll leak.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:23 AM #7
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I would def. flip the valve bro, DP just sent mine back with the retaining screw loosely connected, that valve snapped after being dry fired like 2 times...
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:43 AM #8
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Yeah I went ahead & flipped it. That's what I did when my f7's valve broke & it never gave me any more trouble.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:40 PM #9
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I flipped the valve on my F7 LE, and it still broke... it's because the screw they use isn't long enough.

I swear if I have anymore valve issues I'm going to JB weld the damm thing in there.

As it is I'm trying to source a longer screw with the same threading/size...
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:27 PM #10
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Thats odd.. I have a flipped valve in my fusion and in my buddies f8, no issues and the set screw has plenty of bite to hold on.

I would put the valve in the stock way to make sure it does not leak. If it does not leak, flip the valve and see how it does. The set screw has more to hold onto when the valve is flipped.


If the new valve leaks right away, try dow55 on the orings to swell them up. Let it sit 24 hours before re airing it up. If that does not work, you can try and wrap a little teflon tape in the oring grooves, then install the orings over the teflon. This will make the orings a little bigger and possibly easier to seal to the inside of the body.
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