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Old 02-12-2013, 08:06 PM #22
firerz05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1ryan1l View Post
Not to step on your toes, but .679-.682 may work great in your area, but i've yet to need anything less than a .685...... some of Punkwork's testing is very "eh" for lack of better words...
A basic understanding of stress/strain will be able to let you know that underboring in fact leads to MORE breaks than overboring.

I've found these guys (ZDSPB) to be MUCH more credible than Punkworks. Here is their article on barrels (scroll down to bores and bore sizes) they too recognize that underboring may lead to more barrel breaks. Also take a look around their site, some cool stuff there.

http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/barrels.html

I do agree with you however that a flush rotor tension screw is too much. I had break issues until i backed mine out a bit
I'll have to start matching the paint a little better. As far as the tension goes how far out from flush are you(Around about?)
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:15 PM #23
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I believe mine is a about a turn out
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:30 PM #24
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Yup.....I think the flat face bolt.......or one of the rubber tip modded ones with an anti roll back feature will help more than anything. BUT.......since you don't have that, you need to take other steps.

Lower that hopper tension for sure. Rollback with brittle paint is just made worse with a heavy stack tension.

Next the whole large bore/small bore thing. Punkworks isn't doing their testing with paint so cold it's ready to shatter when you look at it. When nice warm flexible paint is fired, it will bend and stretch inside the barrel without a problem. With cold brittle paint, it won't. You want the paint to fly down the barrel with as little resistance as possible. Over bore.

Detents. Your detents may be in good shape and retracting BUT....are they retracting 100% of the way? I do the finger nail test. I press the detent in until my finger nail is flush with the breech of the gun. If you can't get your finger nail flush, then there is a problem and your detents may be cutting paint. A piece of shell, a buckled spring, a piece of dirt.....could all prevent detents from retracting 100%. Double check them.

Make sure your board settings are correct. Sometimes things get changed by mistake when people mess with your gun. Things like dwell, BIP, EYE delay......if they get messed up you can have problems.

Now if you have roll back issues, you really need to run your bolt pressure as low as possible. Might want to raise that dwell higher than you normally would to do so. Bump your BIP setting up a tad more for safety. Take out any efficiency mods you may have in. You want low pressure.......which will reduce your bolt speed(energy), and also slow down the shock on the paintball when fired. Make sure the FT isn't in too far.....it may be causing the gun to under cycle. I'm no luxe expert so I don't know where it should be set when running a higher dwell. Ask around.

Next time you play, pay attention to the other luxe setups. See what they're running as far as settings, bolt type/mods, hopper. See what you can learn.

If things get really bad you can always dump all your paint in the box and let it sit in open air for a while. It will soften up a bit and add some flex to the shell. That may help. Most gun makers are starting to catch up with the roll back issue since paint is so small these days. Some have not.....the flat face bolt is a must buy for the luxe in my book. Or any other bolt with anti roll back fixes. Paint is just so small these days that it really is a problem for people who play in cold weather.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:35 PM #25
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Thanks to the both of you and everyone else who has posted.

Ryan- I backed my rotor tension screw out 2 turns. I'll give that a go and see if less tension on the stack will help reduce barrel breaks. I'll worry about the SFT oring at a later time.

MstrKey- Good points brought up all around. I did the fingernail test and actually pulled the eye coves off, detents appear to move freely as needed, compressing all the way. I might go through and bump my BIP setting just as a safe guard but for now lowering the rotor tension seems like it might help out quite a bit with ball roll back and too much pressure on the bottom ball(From testing by putting the rotor on my gun with paint with different tension settings)

Hopefully I get the opportunity to test it out this weekend and see how it goes!
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:49 PM #26
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Less stack tension will certainly help. Whether it helps enough is the trick lol. Good luck!
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:46 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firerz05 View Post
I'm getting quite a bit of barrel breaks too while everyone else seems to be not getting so much/ any at all.Can I replace the green SFT oring with a black one?

Also I know cold weather doesn't help but I'm running a dwell of 16 to attempt to compensate for the cold weather. Any other suggestions?
As long as it's the same size the color doesn't matter. Some say different oring's last longer than others and they probably do but new orings are going to fit correctly. You can buy a rebuild kit (buna orings the black ones) from oringmonkey.com so it's cheap to just replace them every so often anyway. Clean out the can really well. The inside oring recess's hold grease and paint (especially if your breaking alot) so it gets worked under the oring and can make it fit tight.
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:06 PM #28
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^ many good points throughout

the first thing i would do is put my finger in the breach and cycle the marker it should be pretty gentle on your finger if it is not adjust your dwell and manifold until it is with the FT in

in my experiences the rotor tension hasn't made a difference with chopping for me at all but i have never had it be a issue at all either
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