PM6 - Choppin n' dropin' off.. :/

Mason74 · 01-30-2013, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webble

Would that be as in Eye Sensitivity..? Only thing that looks like what your talking about when it comes to this virtue board.. And if so, increase by adding more of a delay time or less of a delay time??

As in how long ball has to be in breech before marker will fire. U can increase that to help with chopping paint problems.

EvilPimp_ · 01-30-2013, 08:33 PM

25 degrees is cold. I'm pretty sure it was the cold that made the paint brittle, and the PM6 hard nubbin detents are the cause. my 06 wasn't the best in the cold, and I thought about switching to spring detents. It's my backup, so not a priority for me. Maybe try spring detent upgrade if possible. If you are using small paint, there is probably roll back in the breech, and the stack is not perfectly aligned. So you may get more stress on the stack when shooting, and may cause breaks with brittle paint. reduce hopper tension if possible, to see if that helps.

Webble · 01-31-2013, 07:44 AM

yah its getting warmer ever so slowly.. Im just wondering this "bip.." Or the eye sensitivity that you all are speaking of to change.. Just not sure where on this virtue board where to change it unless its somewhere else and im just that much of a nubcakes.. :/ But yah ill have to look into thoae detents too..

Mason74 · 01-31-2013, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webble

yah its getting warmer ever so slowly.. Im just wondering this "bip.." Or the eye sensitivity that you all are speaking of to change.. Just not sure where on this virtue board where to change it unless its somewhere else and im just that much of a nubcakes.. :/ But yah ill have to look into thoae detents too..

Do u have the manual for the bd?

MstrKey · 01-31-2013, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webble

yah its getting warmer ever so slowly.. Im just wondering this "bip.." Or the eye sensitivity that you all are speaking of to change.. Just not sure where on this virtue board where to change it unless its somewhere else and im just that much of a nubcakes.. :/ But yah ill have to look into thoae detents too..

Some companies call it Ball In place, some call it other things. Basically it's the time the gun waits, after detecting a ball....to fire. I think Eye sensitivity may actually be what the stock manual for the proto calls it.

Not to be confused with Eye Delay, or bolt delay which is the amount of time the eyes shut off,after the gun fires, before looking for a ball in the breech.

Don't forget to turn your Rotor down either

SERIOUSLY it will probably have the most effect of any option you have left.

As said.....the PM6 is an older design. It's possible that 180psi operating pressure in there is just plain too much. I hate to just give up on any gun though.

EDIT: Ok I just looked up the manual......Eye Sensitivity is the proper setting. Sorry about that. Stock is 5ms.....I'd go up to 7ms and give it a shot.
http://paintballgunmanuals.com/manua...pm6-manual.pdf

Webble · 01-31-2013, 08:44 PM

Yah I just DLed one offline.. That one you just linked me to was to a DM6.. :0
But I found the PM6 one so ill mess with the eyes when I get it.. It started to leak again from the bolt area so I ended up leaving it at the field with one of the "techs.." I didnt even wanna look at it anymore.. lol.. :/ But yah, Ill play with that rotor too.. I dont wanna give up on it either but getting shot so many times in the head cuz mine chops when I pop out is getting to be a pain.. Litereally.. lol.

MstrKey · 02-05-2013, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webble

Yah I just DLed one offline.. That one you just linked me to was to a DM6.. :0
But I found the PM6 one so ill mess with the eyes when I get it.. It started to leak again from the bolt area so I ended up leaving it at the field with one of the "techs.." I didnt even wanna look at it anymore.. lol.. :/ But yah, Ill play with that rotor too.. I dont wanna give up on it either but getting shot so many times in the head cuz mine chops when I pop out is getting to be a pain.. Litereally.. lol.

Ya, you can't play with a gun that's doing that. I'm a stickler for ball breakage. If I don't have confidence in my gun I can't play. One break a month is too much for me.

I'd test it at the shooting range before taking it on the field. Rip some strings........swing it around and rip some more. If it chops you may have to keep it as a backup summer gun and spring for something else I'm afraid

Or find some tougher paint if that's possible. Should you buy another gun, avoid anything with an open faced bolt.

Webble · 02-05-2013, 06:25 PM

Yah, a team guy was/is letting me use his Axe for now.. And man, I just picked up a UL barrel and that thing together with the axe was just ripping it all day.. I didnt even bother to use mine when I got it back from our tech.. But im gonna mess with that Eye setting that you all are saying and mess with it at the field this weekend. Still wanna see if that is really the issue with it... But im not holding my breath.. lol

MstrKey · 02-05-2013, 11:03 PM

Eye sensitivity yes but TURN down the rotor too. It'll help lessen the bad ball stack issue in the PM6. Unless you need to feed 30bps?

Maximus D. Meridius · 02-11-2013, 12:15 PM

Did you lower your LPR or break it down and clean it when you raised your dwell? FYI- I tried everything and eventually I switched my stock UL board after 2 years of frustration and it has roared excellence ever since...but go through the steps to narrow down what exactly is your issue; you are already on the right path and NOTHING shoots like a spoolie when it gets set.

Maximus D. Meridius · 02-11-2013, 12:18 PM

As to the leak out of the back, change out for some fresh orings and lube....some have swapped to size 10 instead of the stock 9-

Maximus D. Meridius · 02-11-2013, 12:23 PM

Last one- Have you cleaned your solenoid? If it sat for a while, there may be old lube dried inside/around and could also lead to issues of inconsistent air supply...hence bolt stick like issues and/or chopping.

Webble · 02-11-2013, 07:09 PM

It was teched by Dye, so im assuming they would have done the noid.. Yet I havent done that yet.. I havent not broken down my LPR yet either.. I just did a slight turn here and there after upping the dwell at the chrono.. Ill have to just mess with it more this week and see this weekend.. I had an Olive one also before this one, man I miss that one, it was everything I wanted. This one, just playing games with me.. Could be the rotor tho like already stated, or just the fact that its getting older.. I just figured it getting teched, it would be back "good as new.." Or close to it.. :/

MstrKey · 02-13-2013, 03:08 PM

Problem is techs usually set guns up for best overall results. Playing in extreme cold isn't something most people do, so it takes you to a whole new realm of gun setup. Any tech who hasn't played in those conditions will be clueless. If rotor adjustment doesn't help......you may want to try and borrow a hopper for a game. Something other than a rotor to see if it's still the hopper or not.

I came up with one other idea for you to try as well. This is going to be a tricy one.

Take your bolt out...and put on a thicker back bumper oring if you have one. If not add a smaller oring behind the back bumper oring. This will push your bolt position a bit further forward and may help a bit with rollback. I'm not sure how far you can push it forward before you cause leaks or feeding problems but it's worth a shot.