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Old 02-10-2013, 09:15 AM #610
binaryterror
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i think i am just going to take a few links out. the chain cant be more than a few years old and it is in great shape, just a bit too long. and if i get a new back sprocket i might not even do anything because that will add some tension.

on another note (sorry for all these questions i am just prepping my bike and i cant relax until i have everything planned out. a bit ocd i guess). watch this video here from about 50 seconds down that whole straight. notice how i am just about inbetween gears there? not enough room to be worth shifting up, yet just too little room to where my 5th gear tops out. would going up 1 tooth in the front be significant? if it is going to throw off all of my shifting points, etc, i might not change anything and just deal with it.

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Old 02-10-2013, 09:48 AM #611
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I think you'd want to go down a tooth in front. Ideally on a track you'd want our gearing set up so you just miss or just barely hit the rev limiter in your highest gear on the absolute fastest part of the track
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:08 AM #612
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interesting.. dont know why i never thought of going down so i hit 6th gear sooner on that straight. then when i go to the other tracks that i dont have a gearing problem with, i can just swap out the front sprocket easily.

but my question now is, will going down a tooth in front make a significant change? so much so that all of my shift points, etc will change?
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:50 AM #613
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Originally Posted by SA_4_LIFE View Post
So I got a few questions for you guys, I currently ride a '00 Marauder, this summer i'm thinking about picking up another sport bike. Now the problem i'm having is deciding between a couple different bikes, either a ninja 650 or gsxr 600. I've sat on both bikes, still trying to find a 650 ninja to test ride but for the guys that have them whats the selling point to your bike?
The Ninja 650r and gsxr600 are two completely different bikes.

The 650r is basically a standard with sport fairings designed to be a great all around bike on city streets and highways. It's a comfortable bike that's quick but not stupid fast. It makes good power low in the rpm range but tops out much lower than a supersport. However, perception of speed is a relative thing. My wife thinks my 650 is stupid fast since it's much much quicker than all but the fastest cars in the world. But people who've ridden a supersport and gotten used to the speed might argue that point.

The gsxr600 is a purpose built supersport race machine designed for the track. It's not comfortable and needs to be revs really high to really get into it's powerband making it not such a great choice for city riding.

IMO, the 650 is more than most people would ever need on public roads. But if you want to race or do a lot of track days or get on the interstate and pop wheelies and go 160+ mph then the gsxr might be more suitable to your "needs."
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:24 PM #614
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interesting.. dont know why i never thought of going down so i hit 6th gear sooner on that straight. then when i go to the other tracks that i dont have a gearing problem with, i can just swap out the front sprocket easily.

but my question now is, will going down a tooth in front make a significant change? so much so that all of my shift points, etc will change?
yes, 1 tooth down in the front is a pretty good change, but it's not going to feel like a drastically different ride. It equates to roughly a 2.7 tooth change on the rear (rounded to 3 teeth). So -1 in the front, would be very similar to +3 in the rear.

my k7 750 went -1 in the front and i loved it. Actually went to -1F, +2R when the stock sprockets/chain met their demise.

What bike are you talking about in particular, and what gearing are you running now? Track only or street/track?
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:25 PM #615
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I work as an EMT and I understand perfectly well that is the correct answer. However the real world is answer to use heated gloves. Put two riders against each other when it's 25* degrees and give one a pair of heated gloves and one a heated vest, all other gear being equal and see who lasts longer.
This.


It doesn't matter how cold my core is... if my hands are freezing I can't ride. I actually got frostbite because I screwed up and didn't wear the proper gloves for the occasion... my core was totally warm.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:17 PM #616
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No one is saying to go bare handed as long as your core is warm...
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:11 PM #617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybhall View Post
The Ninja 650r and gsxr600 are two completely different bikes.

The 650r is basically a standard with sport fairings designed to be a great all around bike on city streets and highways. It's a comfortable bike that's quick but not stupid fast. It makes good power low in the rpm range but tops out much lower than a supersport. However, perception of speed is a relative thing. My wife thinks my 650 is stupid fast since it's much much quicker than all but the fastest cars in the world. But people who've ridden a supersport and gotten used to the speed might argue that point.

The gsxr600 is a purpose built supersport race machine designed for the track. It's not comfortable and needs to be revs really high to really get into it's powerband making it not such a great choice for city riding.

IMO, the 650 is more than most people would ever need on public roads. But if you want to race or do a lot of track days or get on the interstate and pop wheelies and go 160+ mph then the gsxr might be more suitable to your "needs."
I do plan on doing some trackdays with a buddy this summer. I've talked to couple other people and i think the 650r will do what i need or try to find a cheap 636 and rebuild it/improve some things. and wheelies aren't really my thing, fun but i prefer both wheels on the pavement.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:51 PM #618
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Originally Posted by 4literranger485 View Post
yes, 1 tooth down in the front is a pretty good change, but it's not going to feel like a drastically different ride. It equates to roughly a 2.7 tooth change on the rear (rounded to 3 teeth). So -1 in the front, would be very similar to +3 in the rear.

my k7 750 went -1 in the front and i loved it. Actually went to -1F, +2R when the stock sprockets/chain met their demise.

What bike are you talking about in particular, and what gearing are you running now? Track only or street/track?
gotcha. its an 06 r6. track only. im at stock gearing i beleive it is 16/45
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:41 PM #619
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Just go faster

And don't cheap out the chain. It doesn't matter how many years old it is...time doesn't wear chains. You are going to go through them on the track faster than you might be used to. Also, the outward appearance of the chain isn't representative of it's condition.

If it's stretched it is weak and will cost you money in sprockets. Don't shoot yourself in the foot.

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No one is saying to go bare handed as long as your core is warm...
yep
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:38 PM #620
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Go 3up in the rear and one down in the front for starting track gearing.

I think mine is a 47 rear and -1 front. And it's about good for bigger tracks.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:41 PM #621
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Originally Posted by tmanbuckhunter View Post
This.


It doesn't matter how cold my core is... if my hands are freezing I can't ride. I actually got frostbite because I screwed up and didn't wear the proper gloves for the occasion... my core was totally warm.
Same here. My fingers got so cold when I took the bike across town to pick up oil that I ended up buying glove liners at the dealership, knowing full well I'd probably never need to use them again. It's one of those things where you may think you're okay, until it happens and you realize you're no match for mother nature.

Disabled the R1 AIS. /exhaust popping
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:58 PM #622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binaryterror View Post
interesting.. dont know why i never thought of going down so i hit 6th gear sooner on that straight. then when i go to the other tracks that i dont have a gearing problem with, i can just swap out the front sprocket easily.

but my question now is, will going down a tooth in front make a significant change? so much so that all of my shift points, etc will change?
I noticed a HUGE change going 1 down in the front on my 1000, although a 600 they make "Take off" Accel kits which consist of 1 down in the front and 2 or 3 up in the rear. That will make a noticeable improvement.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:38 PM #623
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Originally Posted by xXinpayneXx View Post
Go 3up in the rear and one down in the front for starting track gearing.

^^ nailed it. That'll be an excellent starting point. the modern 600's make power really high in the RPM range (especially r6). A good gearing change will put more power in the RPM's you use more often!


I miss the big boy track. Haven't been over 120 in over a year

supermoto's are cheaper and fun, but I miss dragging knee and getting tunnel vision lol
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:55 PM #624
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Thanks for the help. I think I will try going down one in the front and See how it feels before buying a rear as well.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:05 AM #625
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Disabled the R1 AIS. /exhaust popping
What route did you go? Block off plates? Did you cork the rubber line? and did you completely remove the system?

I was thinking about doing this but tbh I like the popping...
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:16 AM #626
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What route did you go? Block off plates? Did you cork the rubber line? and did you completely remove the system?

I was thinking about doing this but tbh I like the popping...
Cork the rubber line, zip tie under the plug to make sure nothing manages to get sucked further in. I then used a vaccum plug over the airbox outlet and secured it with the clamp that used to hold the rubber line in place. At some point I'll get around to making carbon fiber block off plates and pull the whole AIS unit.

It took me about an hour going at a cautious pace. You'll want to remove the tank or have a friend straddle the bike and hold it up for you. Benefits were immediate as soon as the bike started up and popping has been completely stopped. The sound was driving me crazy. It sounded like backfiring after an amateur worked on the bike.

Do you get a bouncy idle? Mine fluctuates a couple hundred RPM at idle but runs great. I heard a power commander might remedy it.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:36 AM #627
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Cork the rubber line, zip tie under the plug to make sure nothing manages to get sucked further in. I then used a vaccum plug over the airbox outlet and secured it with the clamp that used to hold the rubber line in place. At some point I'll get around to making carbon fiber block off plates and pull the whole AIS unit.

It took me about an hour going at a cautious pace. You'll want to remove the tank or have a friend straddle the bike and hold it up for you. Benefits were immediate as soon as the bike started up and popping has been completely stopped. The sound was driving me crazy. It sounded like backfiring after an amateur worked on the bike.

Do you get a bouncy idle? Mine fluctuates a couple hundred RPM at idle but runs great. I heard a power commander might remedy it.
Welly i fancy the popping on the decel.

As far as idle mine steadies out once warmed up over 100 degrees but maybe 2 or 3 times over the summer when i started up the bike the idle was whack as **** (all over the place), i just raised the idle until it stopped, then lowered the idle back down to near what i had it set as and had no problems.

Probably can't compare too much though because we have different bikes, just the same heart.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:47 AM #628
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Welly i fancy the popping on the decel.

As far as idle mine steadies out once warmed up over 100 degrees but maybe 2 or 3 times over the summer when i started up the bike the idle was whack as **** (all over the place), i just raised the idle until it stopped, then lowered the idle back down to near what i had it set as and had no problems.

Probably can't compare too much though because we have different bikes, just the same heart.
What exhaust do you have? Mine has dual GYTR slip-ons. I'm sure a difference in pipes can change the popping.

Did a throttle body sync do anything to help the idle?
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:00 AM #629
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What exhaust do you have? Mine has dual GYTR slip-ons. I'm sure a difference in pipes can change the popping.

Did a throttle body sync do anything to help the idle?
Well i literally meant different bikes. I have an 06 fz1 with a Yosh titanium TRC slip on.

I did not performed a TB sync. The only time my throttle was fluctuating (maybe 2-3 times at most) i diddled the idle adjustor and it just went away, so i never looked into it further. I will prob do a TB sync down the road when i get my valves checked.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:04 AM #630
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I figured you had an FZ1, not the year though

I'm thinking about including that in the 4k mile service anyway.
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