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Old 01-18-2013, 03:23 PM #22
MstrKey
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy2k4 View Post
Lowering the LPR is what slows the bolt down, along with grease thickening due to the low temperature. Increasing the dwell just allows more time for the bolt to move forward and chamber to empty before the bolt retracts. Increasing the dwell by itself will not affect the speed of the bolt.

Maybe that's what you meant, just want to be clear.
If one raises their dwell they should be resetting their regs anyway which will work to slow the bolt down since usually you won't need as much LPR pressure.

There is a point at which you aren't going to be able to lower your LPR anymore but.....the lower air pressure may still help to prevent blowing up some cracked balls in the barrel though. It's not a major benefit but every bit helps. Plus you may get less blow back from the longer bolt forward time.....which is more stack friendly.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:23 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymutter View Post
somepie and mrsrkey hit on the most important part, increasing your dwell time. This slows the bolt action down making it easier on paint.

Winter paint is needed, you will blend regular paint in the winter. Only a few markers can shoot summer paint in winter, and of those only finely tuned examples. Droids blend summer paint in winter, and they make proto's look like tippmans for harshness on paint.

Increasing your eye delay is a good idea, but not needed, but do not run your hopper dry in the winter.

Aftermarket boards will have a bip, increase that if you can.
BIP is what I really meant. Edited my post a bit.

One other thing.....if you have a B-wing bolt with the rubber tip....that can also help. The rubber hits the stack softer, but more importantly it helps prevent roll back which is the biggest benefit.
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:00 PM #24
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I'm using a PM8 right now and I'm in New York and its winter. I get a lot of bolt stick with it too, even with the dwell up and lpr up pretty high. Only thing I've found that keeps it going is to go light on the lube and and lube it frequently. Its a pain but it'll make it though most of your games without too much headache
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:23 PM #25
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grease

Quote:
Originally Posted by frostwalrus9 View Post
I'm using a PM8 right now and I'm in New York and its winter. I get a lot of bolt stick with it too, even with the dwell up and lpr up pretty high. Only thing I've found that keeps it going is to go light on the lube and and lube it frequently. Its a pain but it'll make it though most of your games without too much headache
You should always lube lite. Too much grease acts as a glue. Especially in the cold when parts start to shrink and tighten up.

You should only need to lube it once each time you play. The trick with dye or proto guns is you have to have some grease on both sides of the orings. Not just one side. For example on both sides of the bolt sail oring. Both sides of the stem orings.

You can also try to add a drop of oil to your grease if it`s too thick to loosen it up a bit. Just put some grease on a piece of paper or whatever.......drop some oil on, mix it up then apply to your gun.

Make sure you aren`t filling any of the air transfer holes with grease though.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:53 AM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
You should always lube lite. Too much grease acts as a glue. Especially in the cold when parts start to shrink and tighten up.

You should only need to lube it once each time you play. The trick with dye or proto guns is you have to have some grease on both sides of the orings. Not just one side. For example on both sides of the bolt sail oring. Both sides of the stem orings.

You can also try to add a drop of oil to your grease if it`s too thick to loosen it up a bit. Just put some grease on a piece of paper or whatever.......drop some oil on, mix it up then apply to your gun.

Make sure you aren`t filling any of the air transfer holes with grease though.

That's some good info right there, I never thought to try mixing oil with my lube to thin it out, I also never payed careful attention to if I was blocking off the air transfer holes with it. I'll probably try that out for this weekend and see how it goes
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:01 PM #27
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If you are going to mix oil in, make sure it's a synthetic paintball/air tool oil.

Also, lots of people are afraid of over-lubing, but excess grease will usually blow out of the gun on it's own. Air pressure will also blow the grease out of any ports or transfer tubes. You will just end up with a coating of grease in your barrel and some around the solenoid vents.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:20 AM #28
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Adding oil doesn't mean you have to over lube. Go easy, as always. Clean out the old before you add the new.

Grease will usually flow out of the air paths over time but if you put too much in at one tim,e those air paths will be reduced which is no good.

Lube lite, lube often
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