DM13- Proper break-in/tuning while new?

Webble · 02-03-2013, 07:25 PM

So did a quick look and didn't see what would be a good/proper break-in for a new DM13.. May be picking one up soon and just wanted to break it in right so I dont have to have too many worries.. lolz. That and then, tuning..... The all around, most asked question.. I've seen about the dwell to 21 and then messing with the lpr a turn and then some.. Guess also wondering if I should tune while breaking in or.....? Anyone possibly have done this yet.. Or maybe older DM's/12/11...

If this is already somewhere and im just too lame to find/see it, I am sorry..

But thanks for any advice/heads-ups regardless.

grss429 · 02-03-2013, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webble

So did a quick look and didn't see what would be a good/proper break-in for a new DM13.. May be picking one up soon and just wanted to break it in right so I dont have to have too many worries.. lolz. That and then, tuning..... The all around, most asked question.. I've seen about the dwell to 21 and then messing with the lpr a turn and then some.. Guess also wondering if I should tune while breaking in or.....? Anyone possibly have done this yet.. Or maybe older DM's/12/11...

If this is already somewhere and im just too lame to find/see it, I am sorry..

But thanks for any advice/heads-ups regardless.

there is no real breakin process, basically shoot 10 good cases threw it THEN tune it. other then that if you get it new PLEASE take the bolt out and whip the lube off and put a fresh coat on they cake it on there

Webble · 02-03-2013, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grss429

there is no real breakin process, basically shoot 10 good cases threw it THEN tune it. other then that if you get it new PLEASE take the bolt out and whip the lube off and put a fresh coat on they cake it on there

haha I was just in your thread looking at what you do/what others had to say about you... Glad you came over here.. lol.. But yah.. A good 10, sounds like a plan.. And just get a nice layer on there instead on what they put huh.... Is it just too much for the bolt or what..?

grss429 · 02-03-2013, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webble

haha I was just in your thread looking at what you do/what others had to say about you... Glad you came over here.. lol.. But yah.. A good 10, sounds like a plan.. And just get a nice layer on there instead on what they put huh.... Is it just too much for the bolt or what..?

Yes 9 times out of 10 you'll be getting lube on your bolts/bore and wont have a straight ball, I'm glad people talk about me, I must be doing something good!

Splatkid10 · 02-03-2013, 09:10 PM

The DMs come caked in Dow 33. Wipe it all off, very very very fine layer (no white globs).

grss429 · 02-03-2013, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Splatkid10

The DMs come caked in Dow 33. Wipe it all off, very very very fine layer (no white globs).

I wouldnt say that thin... DM12s love a nice coat of lube, just not overly like the factory does

Splatkid10 · 02-03-2013, 11:29 PM

If you clean and lube the bolt after everyday the fine layer is just...fine! I've put north of 60 cases through my gun no problem this way.

Webble · 02-04-2013, 08:26 PM

So pretty much, relube and get some cases through it....? And mess with it later after the cases......

MstrKey · 02-04-2013, 11:43 PM

Well there is one thing you could do. Turn your LPR to zero output. Then air up your gun and leave it that way for a day lol. It worked for me.

Otherwise the best thing you can do is just play with it.

Splatkid10 · 02-05-2013, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MstrKey

Well there is one thing you could do. Turn your LPR to zero output. Then air up your gun and leave it that way for a day lol. It worked for me.

Otherwise the best thing you can do is just play with it.

This is a horrible idea and won't do anything but mess with your LPR.

MstrKey · 02-05-2013, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Splatkid10

This is a horrible idea and won't do anything but mess with your LPR.

Actually with your LPR at zero.......no air goes into it. Hence no messing. Just like turning air flow into your gun off, no longer messes with your gun. You want to protect the noid......and preform the orings on the drive train.

eyeownyu · 02-05-2013, 11:09 PM

^ i dont see how that would do anything. you want to break in the orings on the bolt, and in order to do that the bolt needs to move.

if anything you would want to take the eye pipe out, and dry fire the **** out of the gun.

GUN_YOU_DOWN_3 · 02-06-2013, 10:58 AM

I own a dm13, shot 20+cases through it, I haven't touched a single thing except change firing mode to psp, and lube the bolt. You don't need to mess with anything else

MstrKey · 02-08-2013, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyeownyu

^ i dont see how that would do anything. you want to break in the orings on the bolt, and in order to do that the bolt needs to move.

if anything you would want to take the eye pipe out, and dry fire the **** out of the gun.

Actually that's not quite true. You want the new tight orings to reform and fit the location they're in better. You're not wearing them out to get them to work better. Worn orings will leak.

Still, you are right about the best way to break it in being using it, since my cheater method won't break in LPR or regulator orings. You need air flow through the entire gun for that. Just play with it.

Webble · 02-25-2013, 12:42 AM

Man, breaking in blows.. lol.. Actually broke a couple today with the new 13.. Guess that eyepipe helped tho, cuz after the break, accuracy was back to normal, just interesting that I broke on the break trying to make my primary.. And then rotor decided to be a pain and jam up which didnt help matters... But yahhhh.. Cant wait for this thing to be really broken in..

jtguy2269 · 02-25-2013, 01:05 AM

next time you go to play do this

Go to the fill station
turn gun on uncapped ramping/full auto
take the eye pipe out
put a squeegee down the barrel
put 5-10 full tanks through the marker
=
smooth dm

GUN_YOU_DOWN_3 · 02-25-2013, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtguy2269

next time you go to play do this

Go to the fill station
turn gun on uncapped ramping/full auto
take the eye pipe out
put a squeegee down the barrel
put 5-10 full tanks through the marker
=
smooth dm

can't tell if srs

-Lightning- · 02-25-2013, 01:06 PM

Should never shoot it without the eye pipe. This can cause breech scratching and/or it can clip the eyes.

tim2thousand4 · 02-25-2013, 04:45 PM

engenhocas · 02-25-2013, 04:56 PM

Hi.

In my opinion the best of the best is PLAY, have fun, shoot paint, lots of paint.

In the end clean the gun and apply a small coat of lub ( Dye lub or dow 33)

Repeat as long as you can !!!!

TherealInsomniac · 02-25-2013, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyeownyu

^ i dont see how that would do anything. you want to break in the orings on the bolt, and in order to do that the bolt needs to move.

if anything you would want to take the eye pipe out, and dry fire the **** out of the gun.

This isnt true. its a paintball version of an old wives tale. the breaking in is of the regulator springs. getting them seated into a consistent spot, and the metal flexing in a consistent way. like breaking in a pair of raw denim jeans. this is why an old gun with new orings still shoots like an old gun.

the orings do get worn down, but thats only a side effect of the cycles.