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Old 01-31-2013, 07:14 PM #1
ltaustinpowers
 
 
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Location: 1000 Oaks
Piecing together an Eblade

PBNation,

Thank you for entering this thread. It has been over 5 years since I have last played paintball. A work function is getting me back into the game. I still have all of my old gear, including a 2003 mini black magic autococker. I was interested in upgrading it to an eblade. I was wondering how to do it.

The simplest would be to buy a complete package. However, it may not be the cheapest. If I was to buy everything used, and individually. What exactly would I need, and does anyone have tips on going about doing it? Thank you again!
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:29 PM #2
Rebel_816
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you need the cocking solenoid, and a complete frame w/ board. its not too hard to find a complete one, or at least a complete frame and then the solenoid from someone else. shouldnt run you more than ~$200. much less if its an E1 frame and board.

after that everything is pretty much just bolt-on. youll have to take everything off the front block in order to screw the cockin noid' on.
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:54 PM #3
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Can someone also tell me what the differences are between the e1 and e2 blade?

*Edit*
I have been doing some research on my own. It seems that most people would say that the e2 blade is better than the e1 blade. However, if I came across an e1 blade with a zboard (1.10). Is that then comparable to the e2 blade? Is battery life still an issue with the e1 zboard?

Last edited by ltaustinpowers : 02-01-2013 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:02 PM #4
Rebel_816
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the e2 and zero-b boards are near identical. the only real difference is one says E2 on start up and one says Zero-b.

there is no "e1 zero-b".

theres E1, E2/Zero-b, and tadao's Yakuza. and any of the boards will drop right into any of the eblade frames. although the screens on the e2/zero-b/yakuza are bigger than the e1, and the E2 frames and some worrblades have a bigger window for them. even if your frame has an e1 window on it, you can still see 95% of an e2's screen.

E1 boards get terrible battery life. like maybe 2 cases per 9v. everything else gets like 15 cases.


left is an E1, right is an E2:


notice the e1's chunky trigger, and the trigger guards are different. e2's also have a teardrop shaped cutout on the top button.

this is a worrblade, wgp's take on an e1 frame:


has a square trigger guard, and a built in rail on the bottom. takes e1 triggers. came stock on the karnivor, later models came with e2's in them and had the bigger window too.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:14 PM #5
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Thank you! I hope to have updates soon
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:53 AM #6
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I have an e1 frame with solenoid and house pretty much all of it
I just snapped the cocking rod on accident only like a 15 dollar fix
Pm if interested
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:58 AM #7
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Rebel was close, the ZeroB is an E2 boaed designed for the window size of the E1.
The trigger feel of the E2 is better than the E1 as well.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:37 PM #8
Rebel_816
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hehe, i knew it was. just didnt feel like posting it.

an e2 screen in an e1 window really isnt too bad:

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