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Old 01-28-2013, 12:49 AM #1
FuzionF88
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Returning player in need of advice on Dye guns.

Hey guys, been out of the sport for a little while now and I want to get back into playing again. I miss my dm7 but I'm hard pressed to find one local. So I did a little digging and I like the reviews and such that I see on the newer DM generations. Are they worth the extra dollars? or should I just try and find another DM7 again? Mine was a 1 of 25 Trauma that unfortunately I made a big mistake in trading it back in the day and it's long gone now. If memory serves I had a cp flow plug, virtue laser eyes, critical trigger...aaaaannd, i think some magnetic detents. But anyhow, my main concern is that is it worth it to spend a couple hundred dollars more for a newer gen, used gun then virsus trying to find a dm7? Prices don't look like they have changed a whole lot. Also how tunable are the newer ones compared to the older dm's? What are the obvious ups and downs to the newer generation of DM's vs the older style dm's (above the dm8)

Any info is appreciated!!! Thanks!

Last edited by FuzionF88 : 01-28-2013 at 12:53 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:29 AM #2
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the only thing you will get out of a newer dm is the size.

imo i would just find another dm7 for around 250. the only other one i would possibly consider is a dm9 if you can find it for around 350. anything newer than a 9 really isnt worth it.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:25 PM #3
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Well if you can spare the extra $50-$150 it's worth it if you are going to keep the gun for a while. Replacement parts will be pricey!
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:08 PM #4
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A fellow paintballer I know is on a dye sponsored team and he has a dm12 dm7 and I think 2 nt11s he sold one of them. But anyways he told me he would rather use his dm7 over is dm12 and that from the Dm7 up they are all basically the same. Mayne weight and cosmetics are different. Oh and he uses his dm7 over his dm12 durning practices. If that helps you In your decision making.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:21 AM #5
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Dm's are ok.......honestly though, with the small size of paint these days you NEED a BW bolt to play in cold weather with them. That's the only bolt that helps with roll back at all. Small brittle paint combined with the crappy roll back DM bolts have.....is nothing but trouble in the cold. They've never really adapted them for that problem in all the years.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:17 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
Dm's are ok.......honestly though, with the small size of paint these days you NEED a BW bolt to play in cold weather with them. That's the only bolt that helps with roll back at all. Small brittle paint combined with the crappy roll back DM bolts have.....is nothing but trouble in the cold. They've never really adapted them for that problem in all the years.
I disagree with this part, I played in 27 degree weather with some brittle *** paint, in order for your dm to actually shoot decent in cold weather only way I'VE found to do that is with a dwell of 21, stock 18 dwell doesn't seem to work too well in cold weather. but a BW bolt is nice but it's definitely not needed...

the price of the dm's has gone down, now adays for 500-600 you can get a dm12, and for like 350-400 you can get a dm9-10..

dm7's are nice guns but i'd atleast go with a dm8-10 for the price.


but then again it's all personal preference if you want to spend money or not, personally i'd tell you the dm12 shoots alot better then any dm7 i've owned but i could be bias'd
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:43 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
Dm's are ok.......honestly though, with the small size of paint these days you NEED a BW bolt to play in cold weather with them. That's the only bolt that helps with roll back at all. Small brittle paint combined with the crappy roll back DM bolts have.....is nothing but trouble in the cold. They've never really adapted them for that problem in all the years.
what?

i've never had problems with any of my stock DM bolts regarding rollback issues. and the rubber tip hardly effects rollback anyways.

also dm's are the softest gun on paint if you know how to tune it correctly.
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:08 PM #8
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Who wants to buy a gun that`s soft on paint if you tune it properlyÉ That`s my point.......just buy one that`s already designed to work better in the cold or with brittle paint out of the box. For the same money take less risks.

Now a used Dm......if you get it cheap enough is a nice purchase. I shot Dms for years but I`d never buy one new anymore.

To the OP if you can find a nice DM7, it`ll perform pretty much the same as any of the new ones. A tad more weight but that`s no big deal.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:38 PM #9
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I'd look for a DM7, weight wise it's not noticeable with hopper and a tank, I think it's profile is actually lower compared to the rest DM line. The flow plug, and a trigger are all that's needed for it IMO... Maybe kila detents. All the newer stuff has more plastic that are parts not meant to last but look good. DM7 is all metal except for grips and eye pipes. I've played in low 30's and have yet to breaks a ball in the breech.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:04 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
Who wants to buy a gun that`s soft on paint if you tune it properlyÉ That`s my point.......just buy one that`s already designed to work better in the cold or with brittle paint out of the box. For the same money take less risks.

Now a used Dm......if you get it cheap enough is a nice purchase. I shot Dms for years but I`d never buy one new anymore.

To the OP if you can find a nice DM7, it`ll perform pretty much the same as any of the new ones. A tad more weight but that`s no big deal.


All guns are going to have issues with paint in extreme cold weathers... Newest DM13 out of the box here on video. Same thing you would get out of 9-12. Same internals. Only thing that's changed is the cosmetics, hyper regs, weight, and eye pipe. Anything from the DM9 and up will be easier to replace on parts, since it's all the same. Triggers from past dms wont be able to fit in newer dms, varying on which trigger it is.

The only reason certain dms shoot bad, is because it's from all their owners trying to mess with the settings, constantly adjusting. The gun comes great out of the box, depending on where you live, ALL you need to adjust is the dwell/lpr. The Less turns on the LPR, the smoother, the more equals better air efficiency.

When I get my DM out of the box: Leave settings stock, since I am in California, don't need to worry about weather and the dwell. LPR 2 1/2 turns out. Turn the Reg all the way down, and readjust to the desired velocity. Always gotten easy 8-9 pods + Hopper. If it works, don't touch it.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:35 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
Who wants to buy a gun that`s soft on paint if you tune it properlyÉ That`s my point.......just buy one that`s already designed to work better in the cold or with brittle paint out of the box. For the same money take less risks.

Now a used Dm......if you get it cheap enough is a nice purchase. I shot Dms for years but I`d never buy one new anymore.

To the OP if you can find a nice DM7, it`ll perform pretty much the same as any of the new ones. A tad more weight but that`s no big deal.
What other marker would you suggest? The LPR on the DM line really makes it much better, and doesn't take a lot of tinkering to work well.
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:54 AM #12
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wolfpack!! we shoot dm13's and have yet to break balls in the chamber, only broke a ball in the barrel every now and then when it was freezing out
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:45 AM #13
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guns and cold.

Quote:
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All guns are going to have issues with paint in extreme cold weathers... Newest DM13 out of the box here on video. Same thing you would get out of 9-12. Same internals. Only thing that's changed is the cosmetics, hyper regs, weight, and eye pipe. Anything from the DM9 and up will be easier to replace on parts, since it's all the same. Triggers from past dms wont be able to fit in newer dms, varying on which trigger it is.

The only reason certain dms shoot bad, is because it's from all their owners trying to mess with the settings, constantly adjusting. The gun comes great out of the box, depending on where you live, ALL you need to adjust is the dwell/lpr. The Less turns on the LPR, the smoother, the more equals better air efficiency.

When I get my DM out of the box: Leave settings stock, since I am in California, don't need to worry about weather and the dwell. LPR 2 1/2 turns out. Turn the Reg all the way down, and readjust to the desired velocity. Always gotten easy 8-9 pods + Hopper. If it works, don't touch it.
Actually I'd probably suggest going up to the dm9+ range as well if anything. Scratch my dm7 statement. They had a significant operating pressure drop from 180psi to 140ish I think.....which is also easier on paint. As you can see in your video.....the cold makes minor issues(like roll back) far more complex.
To be honest......the best thing you can do in the cold is keep your paint warm lol but that's not always possible. I used to use my older DMs at -15 C without too much trouble IF.....I kept my paint warm in between games.

For Dm's in the cold

Crank you dwell to like 21

Rechrony then set your LPR as low as it can go reliably. Only do this after your gun has been sitting outside in the weather you're going to be playing. Setting a gun up indoors then going into the cold is not going to help. Climatize it!

Raise BIP a couple ms

Lower hopper tension if you can, or the feed rate if you don't have a tension adjustment( especially with the rotor). You want paint in the stack to be able to bounce away from the bolt impacts as much as posible. A solid unmoving ball stack will cause cracks in the paint.

Run a big overbore on the barrel. Give any paint fired as much room to flex and as little resistance as possible.

If you cant' keep your paint warm(by keeping it in a car or whatever), dump it into a the box and let some moisture at it. If you can soften up the shells just a bit, you'll have less breaks. Usually cold air isn't very moist so this could take time.

Chrony lower than 295. Losing a few feet of range is worth it if you can play without breaking paint. Go to 275....don't be scared.

If you do break paint, clean your barrel like crazy. I like to keep alcohol around if it's below freezing since it will melt that lite residue that's frozen inside your barrel. Too much of that residue and your barrel diameter can shrink pretty fast.

Give the gun a fresh lube job with a nice slick grease. Add a bit of oil to your grease if you must but a bit thinner is better in the cold since everything shrinks and tightens up. Thicker grease may not freeze but it can become sticky.

Use the paint that's too bouncy to play with in the summer. In the cold that paint will be more durable and probably work better. Plus the cold will still make it break just fine since it won't be bouncy anymore. Winter formula paint is always nice in the cold of course...
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Last edited by MstrKey : 01-31-2013 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:55 AM #14
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Lpr

Quote:
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What other marker would you suggest? The LPR on the DM line really makes it much better, and doesn't take a lot of tinkering to work well.
The LPR does help but stock settings on a Dm aren't really that low on the LPR. So there is still a lot of energy behind the bolt. If you know how to tune it, break it in well and do the stuff above you should be ok. If you must buy something new off the shelf it wouldn't hurt to check out some of the newer guns from all the companies out there. I won't be specific but a lot of them are designed with brittle paint in mind. Peek around the forums and see what's out there.
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