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Old 01-28-2013, 10:51 AM #22
Cokrkilr
 
 
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I thought he said the valve needed to twist right? confusion now...

looking at the back of the valve, does it need to go clockwise or counter to line up? either way, if the pin isnt in the right location just mod the rail...
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:20 PM #23
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it's the back half.

it goes clockwise to line up and needs to go a teeny bit more clockwise iirc.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:27 PM #24
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Well, like I said 3 times now... a dremel in the z notch will make short work of your problem and you can use your reg. I've had to use a dremel on a barrel in the slide lock where the manufacturer made the lock hole too deep and the barrel would stay locked in. a small carbide honing bit, set dremel on low if its adjustable speed, made a slight ramp down into the hole. Problem solved, took me longer to remember where my bits were for the dremel than to actually do the mod.

Or if your decent with a drill press use that, but id imagine using a small drill bit (like1/8") you'd have a problem snapping them if you need to only drill 1/2 the width of the bit... it could bind and most likely snap.

That's my $.02 again...
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:06 PM #25
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Don't worry, I read what you posted. I'm just clarifying myself for the others since they are trying to give some input.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:20 PM #26
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I got ya, and I'm not trying to come across as rude or anything. But really you have 3 simple options and its just doing one of them.

1) don't use the reg, but you really want to
2) grin/file down the pin, this is permanent to the valve
3) notch the rail, if its stock there are plenty out there to buy for cheap, if its a nice 1/10-20-30 rail then I can see how you'd be hesitant to at least just trying it.

But you're gonna have to pick one of those

Let us know how it goes
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:57 PM #27
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I like door 3 a lot and that's kind of my plan at this moment once I have access to the mills in our shop or someone's steady hands (mine are shaaaaaakey!)

I'll keep ya posted.

Open shop day next thursday, that might be the chance.
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:33 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YeloSno View Post
I like door 3 a lot and that's kind of my plan at this moment once I have access to the mills in our shop or someone's steady hands (mine are shaaaaaakey!)

I'll keep ya posted.

Open shop day next thursday, that might be the chance.
Your killing me man!

Next thursday? At a mill? This has your own custom touch written all over it in a whole 40 second of dremel work.

I have confidence in you and your shaky hands! If I can do this at my kitchen table with a $9 Harbor Freight tap and dye set, you can knock this out today, not thursday, I promise

two holes, dead center, no vise or any other form of large shop tools... I even added the bevel touch with a large drill bit

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Old 02-09-2013, 08:01 PM #29
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I wish I saw this sooner.

I'm a massive ***** when it comes to working on my markers.

Cars? Go at it.
Residential electrical? **** it.

But when it comes to my guns, I prefer to have the cleanest, neatest and most precise job done. No idea why I'm like that.


Good news on the mill at school: It ****ing broke the day I brought it in.

The downside of using a school mill is that there are idiots in the class that stick their hands in them while they're running and have their clothing jam up things to the point where stuff starts to burn and, well, now it's non-op for a while.

Looks like I'll employ a dremel at the field.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:36 PM #30
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You ever resolve this?
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:07 PM #31
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Kind of.

I got to work on it, and it fits, but now I need air to test it out

Had my wisdoms pulled recently, so I should hit up the field in about 2 weeks.


I'll be keeping you guys posted of the results! I hope this works.


I want to build a bad rep monster. All the parts that had a bad reputation for iffy tolerances, combined into one behemoth.

In this case a mini-moth since the body should be a 2k9 PTP MM's.
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