Hello. I'm new to this forum so please bear with me. I just purchased this autococker with an Eblade 2 frame with version 1.10. This market has never been aired up or shot for a great price. My questions are
1) what year and model is the autococker. I'm thinking a prostock but not quite sure.
2) Is there away to test the solenoid with putting sir to the gun as I want to make sure everything is working perfect.
3) Can someone suggest which LPR and Ram I should replace the stock ones with. 4) Is there a web page or a sticky thread which shows you how to disassemble and reassemble and set up the proper length for the ram rod that contests to the rear block ect. Thanks for any and all help.
Note not sure why or how to post a picture from my phone of the autococker. If some k ows how to post pictures or can post the different prostock cockers would help.
1. pictures would help, anyone can slap an e2 on any cockers.
2. just air the gun up, and then put it into training mode
3. once again pics would help. the only real upgrade worth considering would be QEVs, or if it is a wgp cocker with an STO ram, then the wgp TRVs will work fine with it, as for an lpr palmers and eclipse/belsales are a favorite but they tend to cost alot of money.
this video will help you with every thing that you will need to know when you work on an autococker, it still applies to e-cockers, except you dont really need to worry about any mechanical timing with a 3-way, the only mechanical type of timing would be the sear lug depth-
It is an 05 superstock, most cocker parts are interchangeable, the only ones that cannot be changes it the front block, it uses a special front block, but is very good and does need upgrades. As I said before a new ram isn't necissary, it appears to have stock pneumatics, the STO ram is good, the only upgrade to them that would improve it would be TRVs, I believe that the threads are different for the front and rear barbs, so a set of WGPs will work with it. You can find them in the BST section here, and on eBay, they run about 35-40ish for a set of 2
Thanks again. I put it in training mode to test solenoid but when you pull the trigger nothing really happens. There is a delayed tick coming from the front solenoid but that's it. I must be doing something wrong. Any suggestion.
means you have the eyes on and the delay'd tick means its holding to back block back waiting for a ball. doesnt work like a normal marker where if the eyes dont see a ball it doesnt shoot. since the bolt is always forward it has to "wait" for a ball.
if your not using air nothings going to happen either.
the gun wont fire in training, since it doesnt activate the sear solenoid. its the loud one, you can definately hear it. it just activates to cocking solenoid to move the bolt around.
its hard to tell from your avy, but it looks like yours has an e2 eblade frame instead of the stock SF frame. which is a very good thing. cant really tell if its an e1 or e2 though from the small pic. it will say what board is in it when you turn it on.
Its an Eblade2 frame
So I found the problem. The guy who had it before me had put the front solenoid connector in the spot for the trigger sear solenoid connector. The trigger solenoid is not moving.
My problem now is that the trigger Solenoid seems to work well but some times it will not move on first few trigger pulls. But if you push the solenoid plate just a bit it will fire and work fine. But if you stop for any period of time it gets stuck again. I'm assuming its due to a lower battery level I hope.
Second issue is with the screen. Lines appear on display now and again when eyes are on and there is a delay in the trigger or it flashes a bit
I'm thinking I should just replace the board since previous owner had it hooked up wrong and may have damaged the board. But that's why he sold it because he couldn't get the solenoid to work. All the stickers were still on this gun when I received it. So don't mind replacing some parts.
plugging the wires in backwards wont damage the board, its the easiest way yo check if a solenoid is still working. screens just go bad with time/use, theres not much you can do about that part unfortunately. the delay in the trigger could be caused by settings or a low battery.
try resetting the board to factory fast, get a fresh battery, air, and some paint. go see how it shoots.