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Old 01-15-2013, 11:23 AM #1
thecocksmen
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Karnie care

were do i need to grease and oil on a Karnie? I fig gold cup in the asa, but do i need to grease the o rings on the bolt as well?
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:49 AM #2
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no grease, only oil is needed and yes you can oil the bolt o'rings (very lightly). oil through the ASA should keep it going for a few years. You might have to rebuild the HPR, LPR and ram eventually, but you can worry about that when the time comes.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:36 PM #3
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oil in the asa is all it will ever need. put in a few drops and dry fire it several times. might want to take the barrel off so the excess oil doesnt get blown through it.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:15 PM #4
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And a third time.
A FEW drops of Oil in asa. Dry fire. Done.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:25 AM #5
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Dry fire? You should take out the cocking rod and cycle about 40 times so oil get into all parts (3 way, LPR, ram) not just HPR.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:23 AM #6
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Cocking rod? Its a karni. There is no cocking rod that can be removed. Plus you want that oil going through the valve. It helps seal the valve stem.

Yes dry fire. It has never been proven to hurt an autococker.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:27 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkapollo View Post
Cocking rod? Its a karni. There is no cocking rod that can be removed. Plus you want that oil going through the valve. It helps seal the valve stem.

Yes dry fire. It has never been proven to hurt an autococker.
What he said.

The is nothing in an autococker that can be hurt from dry firing.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:59 PM #8
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sounds good, got some gold cup oil to use. Thanks for the replys. Quick ?? my e2 is v1.10 and i cant seem to find the mode option in my menu to chose classic or training etc, does that version not have it?
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:36 PM #9
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Is there not a cocking rod attached to back block on a stock Karnie?
http://s1065.photobucket.com/albums/...ingrods001.jpg
If you leave rod attached most of the oil blows right out barrel. If you remove it and cycle the gun oil gets to all parts better. (this is what was said at a WGP tech class years ago) Yes removing a rod on karnie is more of a pain. Yes everybody dry fires their guns even me.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:05 PM #10
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ill just leave the rod in and dry fire, seems like i can fudge stuff up less that way.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:50 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
Is there not a cocking rod attached to back block on a stock Karnie?
http://s1065.photobucket.com/albums/...ingrods001.jpg
If you leave rod attached most of the oil blows right out barrel. If you remove it and cycle the gun oil gets to all parts better. (this is what was said at a WGP tech class years ago) Yes removing a rod on karnie is more of a pain. Yes everybody dry fires their guns even me.
he is right that it does have a cocking rod
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:24 PM #12
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yea, technically the karni has a cocking rod, it threads right into the back block. however removing it is quite a hassle as the hammer has to come out with it so you basically have to take the whole back end of the gun apart. unless your putting an mq valve in theres no reason to touch it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:02 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecocksmen View Post
sounds good, got some gold cup oil to use. Thanks for the replys. Quick ?? my e2 is v1.10 and i cant seem to find the mode option in my menu to chose classic or training etc, does that version not have it?
your v1.1 has both classic and training. to get to the menu, u have to open your grip panel and push the red button on the upper left corner near the connector (typing this from work), that will get you into the programming modes.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:13 AM #14
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If its an e 2 Karin just run it in training mode instead of normal to cycle the oil
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:43 PM #15
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Again.. No. You want the oil to go through the valve. Plus, why are you bringing up a 4 month old thread? Im sure the gun has been oiled by now.
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